Sit Down Start. Around the corner, to the left of 'P. L. Traverse', sit with both hands in the long horizontal crack. Each hand is on either side of the arête. Climb up the arête to top out.
Start left on the face with the arrow on it. Sit/crouch start on black horizontal rail. Move up to the central top end of the boulder without using the arete.
This is the furtherest route to the left of the Arrow buttress. Really good crux pitch and very nice second pitch.
Smear up a small ramp and up the left corner. Step up and climb weirdly a small corner to the left and up all the way to the bottom of a crack that bends to the left. Belay at the bottom of the crack.
Climb the crack and traverse left to a small ledge.
From the ledge, climb up and traverse diagonally right through a foot rail. Climb up to a roof and traverse right around the exposed corner and up to the bottom of a long beautiful recess. Climb the recess until reach a horizontal crack to your left. Traverse all the way to the left using the horizontal crack to build a stance.
The decent is obviously to your left (if you face the top of the mountain).
With good rope management the second and third pitch can be linked in a very fun single pitch. These are the two best pitches of this route! It starts around 4 meters to the left of the start of Friar Tuck or around 14 meters left of the big chimney that makes the start of Robin Hood.
Climb all the way up to a roof to the left of a bulging rock that marks the start of the second pitch.
Climb around the bulging rock (exposed) and up a bottomless recess to a ledge to the left.
Climb diagonally up to a roof and take the easiest option through the V shape roof. Pull up and climb the recess to a ledge.
Step right around the corner and climb the strenous layback.
The route starts around 10 meters left of the big groove/chimney that marks the start of Robin Hood route.
Climb up, slightly diagonally to the right to reach a big ledge. Make an anchor just above the chimney from Robin Hood first pitch.
Climb awkwardly up on holds and jams towards a yellow groove that can be seen from the belay station. Climb the yellow groove until reach a small roof and step right using a good hand jam. Step up and climb all the way up an easy corner to belay just by the left of two big blocks.
Step up the big blocks and pull up to a small recess and traverse right and then up to a big ledge.
The descent is just walking to the left of the buttress (assuming you are looking to the top of the mountain).
Start from the top of a block with a cairn made of two big rocks on the top of it. This route has plenty of gear but the rock is a bit hollow and demands attention all the way up. It is a good route though. Just be careful.
Pull up until reach a small roof. After a very short traverse left of the small roof, pull through and climb up to a crack. Climb the crack towards an open book. Pull through the open book and when it gets very liqueneous climb the juggy face on the left. Belay from there. One can walk off to the left here. Another pitch is possible in the sequence but most people walk off here.
FA:M. Mcleod, N. Reay, D. Steyn & P. Sherlock, 1991
A fair route which slips between Barrier Pinnacle and Barrier Crag.
Start: up the over hanging corner left of Barrier Pinnacle
Climb up the corner until it is possible to traverse left on slanting hand grips to a semi-detached block. Climb the Block, stepping off and traversing right to stance shared with Pinnacle.
Move around the bulging corner, using good grips in a recess to reach a hidden flake, and continue up to a good stance or continue up a brown recess, traversing left under a overhang to exit up a corner to a broad ledge.
Lay-back up the right-side of a ramp until forced to traverse left onto the ramp. Continue up to a small one-man stance below an overhang on the right. Continue using a series of pull-ups, move left and up through the overhang. climb the block to a good stance.
Step across onto the face, then traverse left round a corner and up to a good stance below a black crack. climb the crack to the top.
Great route with some fine climbing which starts about 6m from a large triangular boulder, and 6m left of Barrier Sandwich.
Climb the brown face 4m, then traverse 2m left and up to a roomy, cave-like stance, on poor rock. Traverse right 3m then climb the recess above, moving right to stance at the top.
Climb the bushy fault and step right to a bushed up ledge. Climb a series of large steps, which leads to and obvious traverse left for 5m, ending on a broad ledge.
A pinnacle - from which the route gets its name - may be seen in profile about 15m right. Climb up behind the pinnacle and emerge on its right, before continuing up a vertical fault above for 15m. Move out left to a good ledge some 7m above.
Climb diagonally up to the right to the foot of a vertical fault and lay-back to a stance. Continue up excellent holds to the top.
FA:R. Burton, J. Davies, P. O'Neil, L. Schaff & O. Shipley, 1947
One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.
[13] 15m
Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.
[12] 25m
Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.
[13] 15m
Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.
[16] 12m
Climb the shaley crack directly above the stance. Climb the obvious lay-back to an old fixed pin.
[13] 15m
Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.
[14] 15m
From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.
From the block, head straight up the slab to the ledge (sandy in places, but avoidable). Pull up to a high, wide rail and traverse right until able to gain the orange face. Continue up and left to the top (in situ rap point).
A good route of moderate difficulty. Would be more popular but for the walk in the middle.
Start: the route starts on the extreme left corner of Barrier Cave, about 3m Right of Valken Face.
Climb a small overhang at the corner and up a difficult crack to the ledge above.
Start midway between Face and Barrier Ravine routes. Climb a straight face for 6m until a small overhang is reached. Step right then up another 4m to a ledge, continue up for 8m (this is the crux of the lower sections). An easy crack slightly left is ascended for 6m. Stance beneath the the left of two cracks.
Climb the left crack and continue up the widening crack above to below an open face.
Scramble the face directly above the slope below the upper buttress.
Walk up to the upper sections which start about 13m from the corner overlooking Barrier Ravine.
Ascend the easy face veering left to the ledge above, and then up a small exposed chimney to a higher ledge.
Stand on a small ledge about 2m above the stance to a rail which allows one to traverse left into a shallow recess. Climb this to below a minor overhang, then traverse out to the left for about 5m, then up diagonally right to climb a small chimney, out for which you traverse diagonally left onto a large stance.
Climb an easy chimney in a corner to the right, then up a short face to the next broad ledge.
Walk along the ledge 30m to an obvious corner which is climbed all the way to the top of the buttress.
Just around the corner of the right end of Barrier Cave, below a pocketed face.
Start in the right-hand corner underneath the overhang and climb to the stance.
Climb out 3m and then 7m to the dassie stance on the left.
Continue along the dassie crawl until it becomes too narrow, then descend 3m. Traverse on tiny holds to the corner and continue to a stance above a nose. Note: the direct variation (grade 16) starts by moving up and around to the right to a narrow ledge on the extreme right hand edge of the overhang containing the cave. Stretch up to a small grip and move up past a slab block into the corner. Traverse left to the stance on the nose.
Climb straight up for 15m, traverse 3m right then up onto a small block and continue to a stance to the right.
Climb straight from the right edge of the ledge onto the face and continue up over some packed boulders to a large stance on the right.
Ascend the staircase looking corner for 13m, at the top traverse onto the face then continue 5m to a small stance on the right.
climb the fault straight above to the top of the buttress.
A delightful route which threads its way past the lines of the overhangs. The first three pitches can be linked by taking some extra large cams.
Start: to the right of Barrier Cave are two large red breakaways undercutting Valken Buttress. The first on the right is used by Valken Frontal, the left by this route.
Climb the pile of huge blocks that form a steep pyramid in the corner mentioned above.
Step off the highest block onto the red face on the left. Climb diagonally left. The stance is on a ledge under the overhang next to a white, loose block (Surprise!).
Traverse along the ledge and down to the right, over a long block onto a dassie ledge. Step down onto footholds and traverse out around the overhang with the hands high on the level of a projecting flake.
Climb the broken recess for 5m and at an old peg traverse left over 2m of smooth face until a good handrail is reached. Continue along the narrow ledge (which widens towards the left) until the ledge ends. Climb a short face, then traverse diagonally left to a ledge under an overhang. An alternative stance is at a fixed peg on a small ledge directly below the nose for the next pitch.
Traverse 8m right to a break in the overhang left of a projecting nose. Climb up through the break, and continue up the right-hand wall of the recess above to a rocky platform.
A narrow rib protrudes from the face above the stance. Climb a small overhang to gain a recess left of the rib. Climb the recess for about 2m to a shallow cubby-hole, then move around the right of the rib. Climb the rib to a narrow ledge.
Climb an irregular recess right of the overhang above the stance until it is possible to traverse left onto the crest of the ridge. The final stance is on top of the gendarme, within a metre or so either side of Valken D and Valken Frontal.
FA:K. Fletcher, B. Kohle, A. Snijders & H. Snijders, 1961
Start: about 6m left of the tree at the start of Valken Face.
Pull through a black corner. climb up about a meter on the face and traverse left to a small corner. Pull up, then move right and up to the ledge above.
Scramble left over a boulder to a small black amphitheater to the left of the second pitch of Barrier Ravine. Climb unto a small cave under an overhang, using the block to the left swing around the block and move up to a stance.
Scramble up some minor rock-work and slog up Barrier Ravine to the upper sections. Where the slope abuts the main buttress, there is a large and apparent overhang. The Parapet Starts immediately to the left of the overhang, but Crag continues way over to the right where there is a square shaped overhang about 20m up. In a fault slightly to the right are the pitches which lead up to and turn this overhang. Scramble up about 6m to a large beacon.
Layback up the edge of some large clean-cut flakes, below an obvious fault to a stance about 6m up. Continue up a smooth, slightly overhanging right angled recess. Beneath the overhang at the top of the recess traverse left to a stance around the corner on top of the square overhang.
From a huge poised boulder on the left, climb a clean, mildly exposed face to a broad ledge.
The next stance is reached via an easy corner to the right.
A tricky start up a crack for 3m. Above this, traverse left and up to a ledge 3m wide. The ledge to the left tapers down to about 0.5m. Continue along for about 12m where the ledge broadens slightly before petering out on the face.
Climb 3m up a black projecting corner on the left face, to a narrow ledge. Traverse 5m left along this ledge where, by a wide step across onto a broken face a small stance 5m up and left is reached. {Sorry, the grammar here is horrendous, but this is a verbatim copied from the 1978 guide. Please climb it and better this!}
Climb a 6m crack above the stance and continue up easy rock to a broad ledge. It is possible to traverse off from here.
Start up a corner 7m right. After a hard start the route veers right to the final beacon.
Notes: one could link the first 4 pitches below into one pitch, then the top 2 pitches with 60m ropes, but don't try that with 50m ropes for the first 4 pitches.
Start: The route starts about 10m right of the South West corner of Valken Buttress, and to the right of a Hottentot Cherry Tree.
Move up a thin slit to a stance at the bottom of a fault which seems to cut off a pinnacle from the main buttress.
Continue up the fault exiting right to a small stance.
Move diagonally right, to a small, exposed but comfortable stance.
A delicate traverse right and then up leads to the bottom of a brown recess. Climb the recess for 5m to the overhang. Move right then up for 2m where it is possible to stop, (and partially rest the arms) on a small block, which also has a vertical loose flake on it. A short movement left and up follows. Stance 3m further on a higher at a Wild Olive Tree. Note: One is now on the broken ledge with the "D" route diagonally left. Directly above the tree is a shallow recess about 45m high with a ring of overhangs across the top.
Climb the recess until a ledge on the left is reached near the top.
Traverse 8m right, then climb straight up, finishing on an exposed ridge. (Valken Edge Finishes up the recess on the right). The top of this pitch is directly above the tree. Scramble from here to exit above.
Start: 12m right or Corner, and in the corner left of Valken Edge.
Climb towards the right edge of the "Skelter". The stance is around the corner. Looks rotten and flaky.
Up the corner to below a small, triangular ceiling. Swing left using a flake shaped a half moon cheese. and continue to traverse left on blocks until a break through can be made.
Continue up the face to a small stance beneath a ceiling.
Climb right around the corner to a shallow recess. climb a thin crack to a small block. continue to the left round a corner and climb over a bulge to a stance.
Hand traverse left to the edge, then up to the last stance.
A superb route spoiled by some bush on the top sections.
Started: about 30m right of the corner of the South and West walls is a grey face (facing West). At its base are two trees, and the rout starts between them.
Climb the grey face to a small platform.
Move left then up to the roof of a small orange overhang. Traverse right then continue for 25m up a vertical fault before moving right again over a loose blocks to a stance.
Traverse left 4m around a pinnacle, then up a 4m crack. Move left and up to a ledge. Continue traversing along the ledge until a stance is reached about where the ledge broadens considerably and continues around to the base of the bushy gully on the Valken D route.
Move up and right onto a large block then continue diagonally right (delicate). Continue up to a stance below a large overhang.
Move right beneath the overhang then up a tricky crack and continue up taking the line of least bush resistance to a broad ledge. Traversing right on this ledge brings you onto the South Face route which can be followed back to the base of the buttress.
Start: this route starts below a noticeable square lipped cave (whose left end rises) about a pitch up. on the large grass and bush lined ledge which starts from the Band Stand.
Climb 5m of easy rock left of a nose. From a broad ledge climb a 4m flake diagonally left until the overhang is reached, then traverse 5m left to a block. Climb the recess 3m then traverse left to the top of the pitch.
This pitch runs up a grey face forming the right side of a corner. he face has a shallow recess on the upper section. Climb diagonally left 3m to a corner which has a tiny resting place, From there traverse right 3m along a small horizontal crack to the bottom of the small recess on the right. Climb the recess for 11m to a ledge. From the small ledge continue directly up for 8m to a stance on a broad ledge. Scramble up to a ledge beneath a band of overhangs. Traverse right to a tree and large detacthed block. (Kasteels Frontal beacon can be seen on the right).
From an awkward position on a large block under the overhang on the left below the nose: Reach for the lip left of the undercut overhang and pull up to a ledge on the left corner. Climb 2m up the recess, then a tricky move right to gain the crest of the nose. Continue up the crest for 3m for a small ledge. Kasteels Frontal traverse left along this ledge to the recess. Climb the face above. 5m of "D" grade scrambling leads to the bottom of the next pitch.
Climb a the ceiling capped recess next to a bush for 8m to the ceiling. Traverse left around the corner to a small ledge. Climb onto a small detached block about a meter long which projects from the face. Climb the bulging face before stepping right into a shallow, vertical recess which is ascended 12m to a ledge.
Climb up an overhanging crack immediately above for 3m, then traverse diagonally right for 6m onto a broad ledge. Continue traversing right to another broad ledge at the base of a recess.
Head up and right to the bottom of a flake which is followed diagonally left to a recess. take this recess to the summit.
Start: the route is up a corner 50m from the Band-Stand on the KP. Its most noticeable feature is a large square block about 35m above the start.
The Route begins in the large recessed corner left of the black waterfall which forms the lower right wing of the buttress, just above the path which traverse across the buttress from the Band Stand to Barrier traverse.
Climb the corner for 18m to a roof, traverse left to a wall before climbing diagonally left around the corner and up to a stance.
Climb the face to a dassie ledge, traverse right 12m to a corner stance below a large square roof.
Climb the face then move right onto the corner. Ascend the corner to a broad ledge.
Climb the corner directly above, then scramble to the summit.
Start: the route takes an obvious crack and small tree 5m right of the Turret corner, or about 8m left of a vague arete.
Climb the crack to a cubby hole then exit the crack right onto a small platform.
Continue up the short face to a wide ledge, then climb an easy face on the left to the stance (below the crux of Turret).
Climb diagonally left, then traverse left 3m to the base of a short face. climb straight to a cubby and continue diagonally left to a ledge next to a large block.
From the blocks on the right end of the ledge, climb the corner to a short ledge below an overhang. Traverse right to the tip of a nose, then straight up to a wide ledge. Scramble to the top of the buttress.
"A One for the Road Climb. It had to be some someday."
Start: from the band-Stand there are two obvious cracks, this line takes the first one, which is on an orange recess capped by overhangs and left of black water worn rock. Yes, its that obvious line.
Ascend the recess to the first overhangs where you are forced right then up a slightly bulging, striped slab. Continue up the square recess above before a long diagonal left until a large ledge is taken.
Take a tall chimney at the back of the ledge, left of a flat face. The chimney degenerates to a short, tricky bushy gully at the top.
Pull through the lower roof then up the black streaks to the right of the beige rock in the middle. Tend a bit left near to top into a short, vague corner then straight up.
Start: From some blocks rising above the forest beneath the wall. Scramble up to the next ledge where a cairn will be found below a green lichen-covered face.
Climb the face 12m to a ledge beneath the overhang (the Boulevard). Traverse right to clear the overhang, then up 3m to a ledge.
Traverse right along the ledge, climb onto a nose then up to a large stance (it is possible to link P1 up to here). Climb the crack 12m, then move left and climb the face to a broad ledge.
Climb the left side of the ramp and exit to the right at the top into a cubbyhole. Traverse right as far as possible along the ledge, then climb up to the Halfway Ledge.
Directly above the last pitch, climb the recess 4m, hand swing right and climb up to a ledge beneath an overhang. Alternative: Step off a boulder onto the face and climb up to the ledge. Traverse left 10m into the base of a chimney. Layback up the crack on the left face until possible to chimney up to the Pulpit.
Step across the gap between the Pulpit and the left face. Move up 3m to a handrail. Swing left, then continue along the traverse to the skyline and up the corner to the top.
FA:C. Inglis, A. McCrindle, A. Schoon & R. Williams, 1960
Start: high up KP at the Pinnacle against the side of the cliffs. PW Starts on the right side of the pinnacle, just left of the Pinnacle route.
Step straight up onto the steep wall, then climb past a flake and up a bulge to get into a rounded off chimney. Last few moves at the top force one right over the drop.
From the ledge, step up into a recess, which is climbed to a ledge, then head up a monstrous angled block. Climb up and left an overhanging face above on good holds, to a long ledge 3m below the main ledge. Here one has two options: The official route uses a block on the ledge to gain height for the start. Move up to the dassie ledge stance. Option two: walk left and scramble up next to a pitch on "D" route, a traverse back to the right can be made on an open dassie ledge to reach a stance.
Climb the recess behind the stance to a long ledge. A blank barrier now runs below an overhang on the left, which ends to form a grassy crack. Using two horizontal cracks one can reach an ear on the right wall and get to some high edges. Lay - away to the ledge. The stance is in the corner next to a large loose flake with the beacon on it.
Follow the deidre/dihedral behind the stance to the overhang, then traverse left and up to the ledge.
Climb a chimney on the left for a few meters until a step left onto a weathered face is possible. Great climbing takes you to the top of the buttress.
Unfortunately overshadowed by Champs Elysees, this is none the less a good route.
Start: there is a starting beacon 10m up KP from the large tree near the north-Western Corner of the buttress.
Climb about 3m until a 7m traverse right can be made to a rock which juts out.
Traverse right into the corner which is descended 5m onto a broad ledge running out right.
Starting on the right end of the ledge traverse right for 6m, then diagonally right to stance at the top right corner of the face. One is now under a large overhang.
Take the corner behind the beacon until a handrail below the overhang is reached, then traverse left 5m and up to a small platform. Move left into a vert crack to a small stance.
Take the crack for 6m, move onto the face on the left when the crack closes in. There is a broad ledge jutting far out at the top of the pitch.
Move past the boulder on the right of the ledge, then descend 3m to a lichen covered ledge which ends 3m further. Step across the gap between the ledge and the face on the right, and swing around he bulging corner onto the face. Traverse right with feet on the lip of a huge overhang the is so prominent from the KP path for 4m, then move up 3m before a 6m traverse left to the base of two vertical cracks. Climb the left crack 6m before emerging left of the dassie traverse bisecting the buttress.
Start 3m right of Crag, move diagonally right 6m to a ledge. behind a loose flake is a stance.
Move along the ledge (which direction??) then traverse left for 4m to stand on a loose block. climb up via a vert crack to a stance.
Continue up the chimney for 12m then exit right to a broad ledge (this brings the hut into view).
From the top of a large block climb diagonally right to a small ledge beneath an overhang. traverse 6m right and up to a ledge.
"E'-ternal wondering, but clean, interesting pitches."
Start: begin at the huge square block a the left extremity of the long ledge below the final cliff, some 45m away from the cave. Further on the ledge drops to a lower level and becomes very narrow.
Step off the block into the smooth, steep recess. An awkward move is made onto a narrow ledge. Stance on the left of the ledge.
The normal route does a strenuous traverse across to easier ground. Some easy ground leads to a big ledge below a round corner, which is mostly undercut except for one break on the left. Originally this pitch started from the ledge with an intricate pitch of abseiling, and grotty climbing to bypass the blank section on the traverse to the left.
A Pull up onto a ramp enables a broken line to be followed up the large corner to gain the Halfway Ledge.
Follow the halfway Ledge left for 20m (C/D scrambling and an awkward exit) down to the ledge below. A short wall behind the ledge is climbed to stance in a narrow corner further on.
Step up the face and into another dassie traverse, follow left for 2m at two pillars, then up into steep faces over looking the Kasteel Poort.
Sensational climbing on clean, sound rock now lies up the faces. The line can be varied and stances made at a number of places. The Final stance is next to the prominent angled slab of smooth rock, lying on the top tree covered ledge.
Start: this route starts below two narrow overhangs which are about 10 up the face. There should be a cairn at its base.
Climb diagonally left to a thin ledge below the left hand overhang. Move left up to a grassy ledge. Continue up to a higher ledge on the right. Some delicate climbing to the overhang above enables one to step right, and up to another ledge (With old peg). Climb up, traverse left on a thin rail for 2m and climb straight up (Hard) to a ledge.
Climb the right wall of the open book to the Halfway Ledge. This pitch ends directly below the upper sections of Fraser's Frontal. Walk left along the ledge 30m to where the ledge narrows. Start underneath an undercut recess with some suspicious looking rock.
A sensational pitch: Move left and up into the recess (nuts and old pegs provide pro). Climb the recess to the ceiling, or use the face on the right. Traverse out along the narrow foot-rail below the ceiling to a tiny stance. Two large angles are used to gain the lip of the overhang where a good pull up onto a large block breaks the overhang and gives way to a very airy stance.
Climb the face above, moving diagonally left on good holds to a ledge. Easier climbing above leads to the top.
"A Cragman route. In its day, without protection it must have been desperate"
Start: about 10m right of the drip in the Cave. Start beneath some brown overhangs which are 5m right and up the face.
Climb diagonally left up a face to an obvious stance below an overhanging crack with a tree on the right.
Climb the crack and continue up the recess to a broad ledge.
Walk 15m left to a recessed corner which is ascended to the Halfway Ledge
Walk left 7m to the other side of the overhang. Step from the block and climb 3m up a corner to a handrail under the roof. Traverse right 3m until its possible to move up to a small ledge. Traverse right 9m and move up to an obvious stance.
Climb down 2m to a broad ledge and traverse right.
Climb the face to a dassie ledge. Walk left 25m to a square corner.
Climb the crack in the corner the out left to a stepped face which is ascended to the top of the buttress.
FA:A. Cameron, C. Cameron, B. Cameron, A. Sluman, S. Smith & D. van Breda, 1936
A series of entertaining pitches with big belay ledges. No one ever does the pitches through the lower bands on Postern.
Start: at the right corner of the top band at the level of the path to Postern Cave. A few meters from the corner is a number of shelf platforms below a steep face broken by a twin crack with a bulging rib in the middle.
From the shelves climb the left crack to a ledge.
Ascend the right wall to a handrail under an overhang. Traverse right and move up on the corner to a ledge. Scramble up the slop ahead to the next pitch.
A corner of rock with a little overhang barring entry to it. a fun pitch which can be avoided if time is short. Takes you to the Halfway Ledge
A step wall with some black streaks a few meters right of "D"'s pitch through the overhangs. A strenuous pull up into a vague break up the face. Continue up the face, at one stage moving right to avoid a blank section. Eventually a traverse line right is reached which leads to a dassie platform below a prominent bulge of rock on the corner with a clear drop blow it. Stretching and standing up awkwardly to a hold, then pull through the bulge and mantel, over the drop, to the top.
Move left and up to the start of some rails. Step right onto the steep wall, using hand jams in a horrendous crack for a higher finger rail. Pull up into a niche. If the traverse move is done to low down its a F2.
Continue up the wall on the left using cracks and rails until a bulge above some easy crack to a ledge on the left.
Continue diagonally left across a face, then climb a wide easy crack to a ledge on the left.
Ascend a short face behind the ledge, then move up to a crack with a short wall above, blocking entrance to a recess capped by an overhang. "Spring Balance" comes in from the right, goes up the crack and recess and pulls through the overhang via an exposed move out right. Pull up to a bulge on the left of the crack, traverse right back to the top of the crack and get into the recess by the jams in the corner of "Spring Balance" Step left onto a big flake and move on an exposed corner with an awkward reach for a finger-rail. There is a hidden footrail just around the corner. Climb up the wall to a stance on the very edge of a rib at the end of a ledge also gained by "Spring Balance".
Above the ledge is a horizontal slit. If you face the wrong way and get the wrong left up into the slit to will battle and struggle and never reach the elusive diagonal grip on the left corner. (Around the edge is the direct continuation of Balance) The face leading to the big grassy ledge below a prominent overhang. Balance traverses to white slab below this and goes up the chimney on the left. To avoid extensive damage to the ecology by having a to garden a new pitch, we decided to do the Balance" pitch.
Climb the bushy recess to the overhang. Traverse left across the slab to climb the chimney, exit right (instead of left for Balance's stance). Climb an exposed corner to a ledge with a blocked chimney behind it (used by the Matters).
Climb the crack in a black and yellow striped face right of the chimney. Above this the crack can be followed but it is more exhilarating pulling up on small edges on the smooth face to reach a ledge. A short wall is surmounted to gain the Woody Spring traverse. Walk nearly a rope length left to a corner with a view into the ravine. Those who don't want to climb more than grade 16 can walk off here.
The only less than excellent rock appears on this pitch. These are upside down recesses. Climb up onto the ledge just right of the corner and up steep moves to a little overhang. Pull around this, traverse left, climb up to below the brown, rough rock overhang blocking the way into the left wall. One delicate move out and finger troughs are reached for superb, steep, exposed but easy climbing up to a big ledge next to a huge "Spring Crag" Beacon.
Move right to the steep undercut rib, which is climbed to beneath the overhang. Reach around right to take a crack (past a tea-cup handle grip). Climb to a ledge. Move left and down under an overhang (passing the last pitch of "Spring Balance") to the leaning block and yellowwood tree at the last pitch of "Crag"
Stand up on the steep wall on the right, above the tree. Rail to the corner and pull up to a foot-ledge. Using a high rail swing left over a dizzy drop, get the feet onto some prongs, and pull up into a rough recess with a flake in it. Move up this into a crack, which cuts diagonally right. One ends up lay-backing spectacularly up the side of Horses Head to finish right on top of the block.
FA:E. February, M. Scott, B. Martin & G. Ehrens, 1983
Climb the square recess up for 4 meters and move slightly right and up to a ledge. Climb the weird short crack section to the proper base of the mountain.
About 10 meters to the right of the crest there is an easy recess/crack. Climb it basically straight up to a roof, moving to diagonally right on the face just below the roof. Continue up and slightly left to the base of an obvious crack.
Climb the crack straight up passing through a cam in-situ. At the top of the crack, continue going up using the face on the right hand side to an obvious corner/ ledge.
Climb broken rock up for about 10 meters. Careful with loose rocks here. Continue diagonally right to an obvious right facing corner.
Climb the corner for 10 meters and traverse right for 4 meters. Continue diagonally right to a right facing corner close to the edge of the cliff.
Climb the short (less than 2 meters) stepped crack and traverse left to a vegetated ledge. Walk and scramble up moving always diagonally left until able to find a cairn. Stance here. A more interesting variation is to climb the crack to the right moving up pass a bush and traversing left around 2 meters above the bush. After the easy exposed traverse scramble up to the small ledge with a cairn (suggested grade, 11).
Scramble up till able to reach the base of a recess/chimney. Climb it to a ledge on the right.
Climb the short crack through a gap to a big vegetated ledge. Walk across it to a face with a big face crack boulder tending towards the left. Climb it to a stance on some big blocks in a beautiful vegetated ledge.
This is the best pitch of the route if you choose to do the 16 pitch. It is obvious once you get there. Climb the crack in a flat wall and continue up on good holds on a slightly overhang wall. Climb the break to the left and up to a good undercling. Continue up slightly to the right and back left to a short ledge. From here you have the option to climb the crack on the far left of the ledge or pull straight up on good holds but not great foot in the first pull. Continue up to a ledge with some big blocks.
Mantel up a small face and traverse left to a crack around the corner. Pull through it and traverse left to an obvious break. Smear and mantel up through the gap to a vegetated ledge. Cross it and scramble up to the base of a big recess on a white face.
Climb the recess to a bushy steep walk section. Cross it and scramble to ledge. Cross the ledge to the base of a big chock stone in a crack.
Pull through the chock stone and scramble up through the gap and up to the top.
Start on the path at the left end of the crag up a clean slabby face beneath a step over roof. Step left at the roof for a small prow, then follow the main crack above to a vague rail about 2m below the next overlap. Traverse 3-4m right to a break in the overlap and take good holds to the top.
Start from the ledge. Take the big open book on the left end of the ledge (the one facing the ocean, not the one facing the ledge). Exit left the open book at the overhang, then finish as for First Casualty above.
Take the arete on the left end of the wall to a right tending crack to the top. last few meters need a clean, sorry. Start up the Rectangular face to the ledge, then step over to the arete.
Can-Can
Approach
As for Cha-Cha
Start
Start up an orange corner to the left of a prominent, dark overhang with a good drip on its left side. Stash walking gear some 40m below at a cairned tea cave as this saves you time later.
Pitch 1 17, 52m
Climb the orange corner on good rock to a wide ledge at 15m. Step diagonally right over blocky ground to continue up a red, cracked wall to a good ledge about 30m beyond the first ledge.
Pitch 2 18, 30m (17?)
Via right off the stance for 5m before tending up and left to the obvious break in the roof below a grey open book. Pull through the overhang on good holds to stand in the well protected corner. Exit to the left and traverse a few metres left to a narrow ledge.
Pitch 3 17 20m
Climb the corner above the ledge on good rock. Move left around an overhang to a bushy ledge. Stance here or continue up and slightly left for 10m on grey rounded rock to a smaller ledge on the left.
Pitch 4 16 30m
Climb the corner above the small ledge for 10m until a roof, traverse right, then tend left on easy ground, around a small corner, and up a short face to top out besides a touchstone
Descent
Walk off the back of the buttress (cairns) heading towards the main Corridor ravine path
This route has mixed quality rock. The first 4 pitches feature loose and friable rock and care must be taken. Pitches 5 to 9 are on excellent compact sandstone.
Scramble up the slabby and vegetated wall, aiming for a rock ledge on the left. Upon reaching the ledge (cairn), step right onto the wall and continue up, trending slightly rightwards, and aiming for a ledge beneath some large roof features.
Above is a large triangular roof, and above that an even larger more rectangular roof. Bypass the first triangular roof by ascending a chimney like crack (no pro) on the righthand side of the belay ledge. From the top of the chimney step left and across a gap, to follow a narrowing ledge that leads out to the extreme left of the large rectangular roof. Mantle to gain a vertical break. Follow this, trending slightly rightward to gain a large ledge.
Towards the right hand side of the ledge is the only feasible looking line: steep and clean rock that leads up and right towards a small ledge beneath a roof. Pull through the roof on huge jugs, then climb diagonally left to stance behind a large block.
From the stance, climb straight up to gain a ledge. Move right, and from the middle of the ledge pull through a small overlap to gain the dihedral above. Once established in the dihedral, rail left to an exposed corner. Pull up into a large crack containing a chockstone, which is followed to a ledge.
Just so you know you're still on route: the defining feature of this belay ledge is an enormous block that looks poised to tumble into the void below. The other defining feature is the short layback crack at the back of the ledge. Follow this crack. At the top, step right and head up a few meters to gain a ledge. Following the ledge, do a rising traverse for a few meters and stance at an obvious break/crack.
Ignoring the obvious break above, climb diagonally up and left to stance on a triangular platform.
Above is a clean and juggy wall with an obvious square finger of rock jutting out. Aim for this feature, bypassing it on the right hand side. Step left and climb the steep and gnarled crack to gain a small rectangular platform (possible stance). Step right and climb up to a narrow ledge with a loose block on it. Follow the ledge to the right and around the corner, climb up and gain a large ledge.
Walk left about 8m. Round a corner and climb an easy break up to another ledge. Walk a few steps right and climb the easiest part of the clean grey face. Stance at the next ledge.
From the stance, move diagonally left, aiming for a large flake. Layback up the flake and top out.
Descent: head East and find the Apostles Spine footpath. Follow this South, towards Grootkop. Before reaching Grootkop, turn right (West) and follow a narrow but clear path that leads towards Oudekraal Ravine. Descend Oudekraal Ravine and back to the foot of Corridor Buttress to retrieve your bags.
Start: on a white corner to the left of the recess used by Grootkop Wall and takes the line right up the final 'gable' of the buttress.
(13) Climb the white corner to a narrow ledge running across the face, and from a point where the ledge ends to the left, climb up and slightly right, taking the easiest line up the bulging face to a stance near the corner.
(9) Climb up on the left to a broad ledge above.
(17) Almost immediately behind, a 'half-moon' crack can be seen, the bottom of which is about 6m from the ground and forms am overhang to the left. (The 'flange' pitch on Grootkop Wall is some 25m to the right). Climb the left-hand corner to a point under the overhang. Traverse out to the right to the bottomless half-moon crack and pull up into it. Continue 4m up the crack to a small platform and a further 6m to a wide ledge.
(16) Start on the white face about 5m to the left of the corner used by Grootkop Wall. Climb straight up, moving slightly to the left and back to the right before an awkward pull up. Move up the corner and back to the left, then up to a ledge.
(8) Grootkop Wall route is crossed on this ledge, which goes up easy rock on the left to a point where its final pitches start. This route (Gable) goes up equally easy rock on the right to a point below a large, pillar-like feature which leads to the right hand side of of the prominent long, narrow overhang on the face.
(12) Start to the right of the recess formed by the pillar and face, moving across to the left higher up past a chimney formed by the pillar, and climb up the outside to a stance above. (This stance is at the right-hand end of the long, narrow overhang, to the mid-point of which Grootkop Wall ascends).
(13) From the right-hand end of the stance, traverse to the right under the overhang to a stance.
(13) Climb the overhanging recess immediately above and continue up a bushy recess to a broad ledge above. Walk approximately 45m to the left to where a beacon will be found at the foot of a broken white face with a prominent flake about 25m up.
(12) Climb the face to a small ledge below the flake.
(13) Climb the flake, move out to the left at the top and continue up and to the left over easy rock to the foot of the final white bulging face. The next pitch starts on the face below and to the left of the prominent 'nose' some 30m higher.
(17) Climb up a 3m corner and walk about 6m to the right along the ledge so gained. By a series of pull-ups, move up the bulging face slightly to the right until a narrow ledge is reached below a small overhang. do a layback up the corner on the right and move out to the right at the top onto the white face. Continue up to a stance situated well out from the face below.
(13) Climb over the blocks at the back of the stance and around to the right into a recess, then pull up onto a ledge at the foot of a large open-book recess. from the ledge, move out on the left-hand wall to gain a vertical crack, which is ascended by using jammed chockstones (the second chockstone is loose). Climb a final face at the top of the crack to complete the climb.
Start: as for AA: start beneath the huge hanging corner that is AA.
Climb up to a fairly wide ledge, then traverse right to the corner of the buttress. Step up and move right to the main face of the buttress, then climb up for 18m to a wide ledge. Walk right for 2m to the base of a thin vertical crack, 2m right from the edge of the ledge.
Climb this crack to a small ledge and continue straight up the undercut fault to a small recess. Climb the right hand edge of this recess for 6m to a small stance at the top of a pinnacle.
Go up to handrails beneath the overhang, then traverse 6m right to gain a small ledge. climb the fault above, past a small, lose (but safe) flak to gain the ledge and traverse right to a stance.
4). Traverse back left to reach an undercut recess directly above the last pitch. Climb this to a broad grassy ledge and continue up the weathered face beyond to the top of the buttress.
