루트들 Northwest Province에서

Start 5m right of 'Restoration'- small tree at start.

1. [17] 20m

   A2 Climb the steep broken rock above a small tree to below small recessed corner with a sloping overhang. Climb out diagonally left (A2). Continue up the face and exit onto a ledge.

2. [13] 18m

   Continue up a crack in a face above to easier ground.

3m right of the grey slab of 'One-eyed Jack' is a buttress.

1. 35m 13 Climb up a break 2m left of the edge of the buttress (at approximately 8m is the crux.) Straddle up and move diagonally right crossing a shallow recess. Continue across sloping rock. Move up and left around a corner to a recess then up easy ground to top.

Note: Sparsely protected.

Starts on right-hand side of a grey slab in a recess, right of 'One-eyed Jack'.

1. 15m 10 Climb right-hand side of grey slab to ledge. Belay in corner as for ONE-EYED JACK

2. 20m 11 Traverse right across a face to a recess and a crack system (two small trees). Climb the right-hand crack and face to the top.

Start in the centre of the grey slab mentioned in 'Rudolph'.

1. 18m 10 Climb the centre of the grey slab, moving diagonally right to a ledge belay in right-hand corner.

2. 25m 15 Continue up the crack in the corner to top and easy rock.

Start 15m right of 'Opuntia' on a grey slab.

1. 23m 13 Climb the left-hand side of the slab to a ledge. Move left and climb up to the base of a short crack in a corner with a tree at the top.

2. 20m 13 Continue up the crack passing the tree and on to a system of cracks above. Continue to easy ground.

Situated 35m to the right of the meeting place (at descent gully).

1. 25m 15 Start at the base of the first buttress. The first 3m is the crux. Move up onto the face and semi-mantelshelf moving to the right. Continue diagonally left and up the arete. Climb moving right and then up to a good ledge and tree. (An alternative start can be made by climbing a recess to left and slightly higher - 10)

2. 20m 10 Traverse left for 4m and up to a recess with a tree projecting out. Continue up the recess to the top.

Start climb at high point 30m left of meeting place at an obvious black chimney with prominent small tree 10m up.

1. [11] 35m

   Ascend 10m to tree, then climb over bulge. Traverse left for 6m then move straight small corner to stance.

2. [9] 30m

   Climb up vertical wall above on good holds.

This climb ascends a recess / crack to the right of 'Penny's Error'.

1. 15m 13 Climb the recess to a ledge.

2. 15m 11 Climb non-de script rock to top of crag.

Goes up prominent corner recess to left of a cave 30m east of 'Cave Crag'. Follows recess to two-thirds of height, crosses to face on right then straight upward.

The start of this climb may be located by reference to three caves near the base of the rook and spaced about 30m apart. The route commences about 9m to the left of the most westerly of these three caves, in a small recess, and is marked by a beacon at ground level. The starting point is actually on a broad grass ledge which is reached by clambering over a rocky slope at the bottom of the krantz. Between the starting point and the cave on the right there is a natural feature on the rock having the appearance of an inverted broad arrow chiselled into the rock. This is greenish-yellow in colour.

1. 18m 9 From the beacon work up in the recess towards the left then traverse right over the top of the recess, thence upwards to the right towards the crack immediately above the cave. This crack is covered with aloes and a stance on a small ledge is found on the edge of these aloes almost in the crack.

2. 18m 11 From the stance in the crack step to left thence vertically upwards over good sound rock to a large sloping ledge.

3. 18m 8 This section is obvious and a number of easy alternatives present themselves. The most vertical is the best.

4. 25m 8 Work up to the final rock slope on the right or left of an overhanging rock immediately above the 'cave crack'.

Note: The rock is sound and holds good. The first stance can accommodate two people only with comfort. Top section is disappointing after the first two pitches.

Starts about 9m to left of 'Cave Crag' and just on right of a small ridge below slightly overhanging rocks.

1. 34m 13 Move 5m up on very firm, smooth rock to a slight overhang. Traverse a short but difficult section 2 ½ m to the right to avoid the overhang then up 2m. Traverse to the left to a point immediately above the start of the climb then straight up for about 15m to an impassable zone of smooth rock. At this point traverse right for 5m to a clearly visible stance made by a boulder (slightly loose) sticking out of the main body of the krantz. A better and wider stance is found 3m further up.

2. 30m 9 From upper stance traverse a few meters left to a rock ridge which is followed to summit.

Start about 10m left of 'Carmen Crag' and about 3m to the right of a prominent recess.

1. 25m 15 Climb face and move through overhanging bulge to face above. Climb diagonally right, surmount the next overhang and then continue to stance on ledge below a prominent slab face.

2. 25m 11 Climb the slab face and then continue to the top along the pleasant arete that extends from the top of the face.

Starts in bush-covered scree opposite a 'Cabbage Tree' on the slope and about 20m to 30m to left of 'Carmen Crag'. Start at a flake of rock below a sloping face to left of a crack.

1. 22m 9 Move up 6m on left of crack, traverse right over top of crack to point above aloe. Traverse further right (4 – 6m) round a corner and up a few meters to a stance on a ledge which can hold four people.

2. 15m 11 Straight up recess to a large grassy ledge. Immediately above this ledge on right is a sheer smooth face.

3. 22m 13 Straight up to left of smooth face to a point below an overhanging block. Traverse right below the overhang then step down and across to right in a delicate movement leading to easier rock, round the overhang and back to left to stance above overhang.

4. 22m 7 Straight up to summit ridge.

Variation: 3 22m 8 Step down from grass ledge and traverse to right to edge of smooth face then up on right of smooth face to easier rock joining up with first route to right of overhang.

Commences some 5m left of the start of 'Hammer Route' at base of sloping slabs.

1. 20m 13 Climb easily up slabs to corner crack where wall steepens. Semi-layback up crack past aloe to belay on large dirty ledge.

2. 25m 13 Climb up in corner to overhang, then diagonally right following overhang. Traverse right 3m then up steep wall to small ledge. Cross aloes on right and climb easily to ledge. Chock belay low in horizontal crack.

3. 35m 9 Ascend easily up small arete then more easily still to top of krantz.

This route commences in a cleft directly below the right hand edge of the overhang forming the frame. It is easily identified by the hanging boulder, a feature about half way up the krantz in the form of a prominent projecting boulder, apparently in a delicately balanced position. The usual route goes to the right of the boulder then straight up to the summit. A number of alternatives are possible.

Note: Care is needed to avoid loose rock just below the boulder and for this reason it is not recommended as a route for novices.

This rock problem breaks through the prominent roof of 'Frame Route'.

1. 40m 8 Climb clean broken rock to obvious break in roof.

2. 10m 19 Climb awkwardly up left into flared open book below second overhang. Move up to overhang then traverse delicately right until roof ends and climb up right to ledge.

Start on the sloping wall about 5m to the left of 'Hanging Boulder'.

1. 25m 10 Ascend bearing slightly right, parallel with a groove, to a small ledge that is actually the top of a large flake in the ridge overlooking the HANGING BOULDER gully (small stance).

2. 15m 11 From the top of the flake ascend vertically keeping slightly to the left to a large ledge.

3. 12m 8 Ascend vertically to the big ledge with boulder and thus immediately beneath the overhang that forms the top of the 'frame'.

4. 12m 8 Descend 6m to a ledge and traverse to the right along a narrow extension of this into the top right-hand corner of the frame. Traverse along a ledge around the corner and up to the final stance.

Follows the ridge on the left-hand side of the 'Frame Route', i.e. up the left edge below the overhang from which the FRAME derives its name. The climb has four pitches all of which are grade 8 except for the beginning of the third which is grade 9.

Start midway between 'Drei Stein Mandrel' and 'Sunny Ridge'.

1. 25m 11 Climb up to small tree on easy sloping rock keeping in a crack. Traverse diagonally right underneath a huge roof. Belay in corner.

2. 25m 17, A1 Traverse left onto exposed nose on good foot- and hand-holds. Climb straight up to reach the left-hand side of the roof described above. Place piton in horizontal crack. Climb up 2m and traverse 2m diagonally right up face (artificial) into recess. Climb easily straight up for 15m to belay.

3. 25m 8 Scramble to the top.

An easy route up the buttress on the left of a prominent cleft in the krantz some 45m west of 'Frame Route'.

The start is easily located by reference to a prominent crack leading up to overhanging rocks, which are split and appear to be blocked by aloes. The climb follows the crack in two 9 pitches to a point just below the overhanging rock on the right, then traverses outward, and down to a point about 10m to the right of the crack. From here the route goes vertically upwards.

An alternative route opened by T. Louw and W. Curle goes straight up the crack through the split overhang. (10)

Not a particularly inviting climb but longer than others in the area. Numerous belays. Starts 5 - 10m left of 'Zig Zag'.

1. 15m 9 Choose a route up the buttress to a large rock split off the corner.

2. 22m 10 Diagonally up to the right inside the frame to a recess above some aloes 12m, then 9m up.

3. 12m 11 Traverse left onto the nose and up to a large tree which marks the junction of to route with RACK ROUTE.

4. 22m 9 Up the chimney for 3m onto a chockstone. Traverse right onto the face or into next gully. Climb 12m up until a small overhang is reached. A scramble takes one off the climb.

May commence at the same point as 'Prometheus' but a point 10m up a slope to the left marks the usual start.

1. 15m 9 Up in the recess on left of sloping face.

2. 12m 10 Traverse right to a point directly above the start of 'Prometheus'.

3. 25m 10 Up 9m and traverse left to edge of crack then vertically up to large tree which is point of junction with 'Prometheus'.

4. 22m 9 Work over to left below overhang then up to easier rock to summit.

Start on the rib 2m left of the start of 'Rack Route', 4m to right of a prominent right-angled corner.

1. 15m 9 Climb the rib to a projecting narrow block to the right of the rib.

2. 15m 13 Climb above the block for 2m then move back onto the rib. Continue up on sparse small holds (crux) for 10m, until the angle eases on passing a group of aloes. Belay at a small tree 5m below a split overhang with a light brown stripe on its underside.

3. 30m 8 Climb the gully to the left of the overhang and on up grassy rock to the top.

At the top of the face is a large overhang with a white patch on the lip. On the left edge of the face below this overhang is a shallow recess or corner. This is the start of 'Rack Route'. 5m left is a grassy gully, sloping up left and ending 10m up at the base of an obtuse-angled corner. There is a sloping smooth slab on the right.

1. 15m 11 Traverse left 3m onto the slab which is stepped out on the left. Ascend a steep lichen covered recess for 15m to a stance on a small platform.

2. 15m 13 Diagonally right and up about 10m to grassy area. The crux is the first 5m. The stance is on a big ledge.

3. 15m 8 Up crack or gully above and slightly to the left.

Start up the face immediately to the right of the prominent cleft of 'Other Kingdom'.

1. 18m 17 Climb up easy rock for 5m to where the face steepens. Move diagonally up leftward 3m, and then ascend steep face above (common with 'Other Kingdom') to a small ledge.

2. 40m 10 Climb 8m up sloping wall to large ledge, then traverse 6m up to right of gully past aloes. Climb 3m up slightly overhanging chimney to right of aloes, and traverse 9m round to left. Scramble up 6m to grassy ledge and walk 8m to small tree belay on right.

3. 28m 9 Scramble 15m up steep grassy gully and ascend 13m steep slab to summit.

The route starts to the right of 'Tweedledum' in a prominent but shallow cleft about 3m wide in the rock distinguished by a black streak running up its inside.

1. 12m 13 Vertically up the cleft below a slight overhang then at 4m up traverse left 3m. Work straight up the ridge for a further 5m to a ledge 60cm wide. Traverse right 5m to ledge. (This ledge is 6m to the right of the start of the climb.)

2. 9m 10 Straight up, to the left of a clump of aloes vertically above and to the right of a larger clump of aloes (5m x 2m). About 8m up is a small sloping ledge just above the larger clump of aloes, and 1 ½ m further up to the right is a flat-topped projecting rock providing the second stance.

3. 12m 8 Traverse right beneath an overhanging rock, then proceed up a ridge slightly inclined to the right and facing the ridge immediately above the overhang. The next belay position is on a sloping ledge immediately below a jagged series of overhangs interspersed with aloes.

4. 30m 8 Scramble through grass-tufted ledges.

Starts a few meters to left of 'Other Kingdom' on the ridge instead of recess and overlaps part of the first pitch of that climb. The route goes straight up from that point passing to the left of the large clump of aloes referred to in the second pitch of 'Other Kingdom'. The first two pitches are of 10 standard and face climbing is the main feature.

A route parallel to 'Tweedledum' starting about 6m to the left thereof.

1. 12m 13 Starting at beacon 9m to right of smooth hopeless looking groove up, proceed straight up to small ledge.

2. 18m 10 Straight up to a further ledge approached from the right. This ledge has ample room for three to four people.

3. 15m 9 Leads to a large platform which also marks the finish of the parallel climb 'Tweedledum'.

To the left of 'Tweedledee' is a prominent slanting corner capped by a large overhang on 'Sinister' (see the photograph). To the right of this corner are three grooves, the first two leading to a slab and the third one continues up the face. Start directly below the third groove.

1. 18m 19 Gain the base of the groove with a difficult move and up it for 2½ m (poor peg runner). Make difficult lay-away moves up rightwards to the right arete, where good holds lead up to a small stance and good nut belay below a small overhang.

2. 9m 15 Descend 1½ m and traverse left into the groove then across the left wall to a large block stance and peg belay.

3. 28m 15 Gain the shallow groove directly above the stance and from the bulge (9m) move diagonally up right towards the top of the original groove. Move as high as possible then step down across the groove and continue up the groove to a move right below a nose. Up the recess on the right to a peg belay on top of the nose. A very enjoyable pitch.

4. 30m 8 Scramble to the top.

Start directly below the second groove to the right of the slanting corner. (Refer to description for 'Goon Show')

1. 17m 17 Move up 3m then diagonally right into a shallow groove in the right wall. Ascend this, past a bulge then traverse right to a large block stance and peg belay. (As for Pitch 2 stance on 'Goon Show')

2. 44m 13 Ascend up left wards to where the slab steepens (narrow ledge at 15m) then across right onto the blunt arete (directly above the stance). Continue directly up and follow a rock rib above to chock belay below a small overhang. Scramble off rightwards.

Note: Protection is poor.

Start below the first square overhang in the prominent slanting corner (Refer to description for 'Goon Show')

1. 22m 13 Ascend to the overhang, step right and follow the slanting corner crack up rightwards to a peg belay below a small triangular overhang.

2. 15m 15 Layback up left wards 1½ m then step across onto slab. Alternatively, traverse at level of the stance and move up some way across the slab (5m 15) Move left to the edge of the slab. Then step down onto a flake or block on the corner. Traverse across recess. Ascend the left wall, working up to the left to a block stance and peg belay. (3m 15)

3. 15m 6 Up grassy face.

Left of 'Sinister' a route is picked out inclining to the right above and to left of reddish overhanging rock.

Start in main descent gully to the right of large cave seen 10m above.

1. 40m 11 Climb straight up the arete to the top (A difficult move at the start, a grade 15 bulging crack, can be avoided if desired - 11).

Situated 30m left of gully between 'Commando Neck' Buttress and 'Commando Neck' West. Start in large corner with large crack below tree about 10m up with much evidence of dassie occupation.

1. 40m 15 Climb up crack past tree (slightly overhanging) to easier sloping rock. Belay at tree on ledge.

2. 40m 4 Traverse right along ledge until a very small cave is reached situated on left side of gully.

3. 25m 15 From small cave climb straight up to ledge. Continue up, traverse left to a small tree then diagonally right along edge to top.

Start 40m down from the right-hand extremity of the 'Commando Neck' West Buttress, 6m left of a tree at the lowest point of the buttress.

1. 19m 17 Climb the wall into the open book above, and at the top move right out of the open book to a stance.

2. 8m 13 Move right traversing under overhangs along a handrail to a stance.

3. 29m 11 Climb the crack behind the stance, move out right at an overhang and continue straight up to a tree. Belay near the top.

Start at base of a crack in a recess 3m left of 'Wild Rover'.

1. 18m 13 Climb the crack to an overhang, step right to a tree and stance. (15 if you are short)

2. 28m 15 Climb straight up the undercut wall behind the stance and continue up easy rock. Scramble to top.

Situated 18m left of 'Stormy Weather'. Start left of a rock rib in a recess.

1. 35m 15 Climb the recess just left of a rock rib and right of a tree a little way up on the rock. Move up to the top of the recess and step over right. Move right for 2m. Continue up a wall to a ledge. Climb up the rock above (small overhang) to a short wall. Move slightly left and up and move right to a ledge. To the right there is sloping rock which ends in a wall and overhangs. To the left is a thin crack line running up a wall. Climb this to sloping rock. Move slightly left and then step right. Continue up to a rib of rock and a tree at the top. Belay.

2. 25m 8 Continue to the left up easy rock.

Note: The 1st pitch is on excellent rock.

Situated 25m right of 'Ace Of Diamonds'. Start on large ledge 10m up, or traverse from left-hand side underneath obvious recess.

1. 30m 15 Climb up recess to point below overhang, then left through opening in overhang, passing a broken piton, to next overhang, taking care (loose block). Traverse left up to belay above aloes.

2. 40m 11 Traverse left 2m and climb up to ledge above belay. Continue straight up until easier ground is reached.

The climb is situated 3m right of 'Jack O' Spades'.

1. 25m 17 Climb the crack system to a small tree. Continue up above the tree. Just left is a small block which appears to be stuck on the face above together with a loose jutting plate of rock (which has a strange metallic sound). Move up and try standing on the block which appears to be stuck on. Move slightly left and up 1 ½ m and traverse right across a very exposed face to an edge. Cross over a shallow recess to a ledge.

2. 40m 13 Move slightly right from the belay. Climb up and diagonally left up a face to the left of a recess with aloes and grass. Move up virtually in a straight line following the clear rock, keeping right of a tree, to the top of the krantz. Belay.

The climb takes the line of a great fault which splits the krantz virtually from top to bottom.

1. 20m 15 From the base of the fault climb up into a short chimney and straddle past the crux of this pitch to a cubby hole. Move out right, across and under a tree and up to a ledge. Belay. (This pitch is a 'technical' 15.)

2. 25m 17 Climb up an awkward corner and continue up, straddling the crack. A neat move partially using the left wall and the edge of the crack can be made to gain a small ledge below a shallow chimney. Bridge this until able to pull over left to a wall. Climb up using good holds to the top of a block. Belay

3. 15m 10 Continue up a shallow V-shaped recess above (instead of moving left into a bushy gully) to easy rock.

Note: A high quality climb on excellent rock.

About 50m to the right of 'Tower Of Pisa' there is a prominent ridge undercut by a large overhang. Start at the right-hand side of the ridge and to the right of 'Keg And Tankard'.

1. 15m 10 Move up and left under the overhang and continue up a groove to a stance level with the lip of the overhang.

2. 23m 15 Above the stance is a subsidiary rib to the left of the main ridge and separated from it by a groove. Continue up the rib until a small tree is reached in the groove. Make a blind move right across the wall to reach the main ridge. From here climb up the crest of the ridge for 6m to reach a stance and good belay.

3. 30m 8 Follow the ridge veering leftwards to the top.

Note: By only gaining the ridge at half height, the main challenge is avoided.

45m right of 'Tower Of Pisa' and 4-5m left of 'No Highway'.

1. 35m 11 Climb diagonally left from some large blocks to a defined recess. Continue up the recess for 25m to a small overhang, step over right and up to a ledge. Traverse right for 3-4m and up to next ledge below a wall.

2. 25m 11 Step up and traverse diagonally right across the wall to the edge and arete. Continue up the arete keeping left and aiming for some blocks on top.

Note: A very pleasant climb on good rock.

Situated 10m right of 'Tower Of Pisa'.

1. 30m 13 Climb up a broken ramp for 4m. Move diagonally right across a wall above some overhangs for 8m and straight up through a break in some small overhangs. Move over right to a rib, continue up and traverse left along a slanting ledge. Belay just before a small corner.

2. 30m 15 Climb the corner and crack above to a point below a big overhang. Step out right and continue up to a shallow recess to the top

Situated 4m right of 'Tower Of Pisa'.

1. 25m 17 Start in an obvious corner, move slightly left and back right from a big block (common to 'Tower Of Pisa') into the corner. Climb the left face. Step over right to a ledge below a small tree. Climb up and step left into a shallow corner with two cracks running up on the left face. Straddle up the corner to a narrow ledge approximately 10cm wide which runs left below a blackish face. Traverse left at this level for 4m to the edge.

2. 18m 9 Move around left onto a broken face and straight up keeping on the arete to the top.

From the descent gully follow the foot of the krantz until the first steep obvious ridge is reached. At this point the trees start to get more numerous.

1. 15m 11 On the right of the ridge is an obvious recess. Climb up the recess until it is possible to move out left to a detached block on the ridge. Move back a few meters to the right behind a large tree and climb straight up to a good ledge and belay.

2. 45m 15 Above, the ridge is steep and uncompromising. Move round to the right and climb a corner formed by a pillar leaning against the main face. At 15m it is necessary to move left to gain a subsidiary ramp (peg for protection). This is followed for a few meters until it is possible to swing out left onto the ridge. Thence easily to top.

1. 18m 15 Direct Start: Start about 3m to the left of the ridge and move up and slightly right to gain a shallow groove. Climb strenuously up the groove passing a detached block on the ridge. Climb directly over the overhang above just to the left of the ridge to reach a good ledge and belay.

2. 45m 15 Above, the ridge is steep and uncompromising. Move round to the right and climb a corner formed by a pillar leaning against the main face. At 15m it is necessary to move left to gain a subsidiary ramp (peg for protection). This is followed for a few meters until it is possible to swing out left onto the ridge. Thence easily to top.

The climb starts 4 – 5m left of the direct start to 'Tower Of Pisa'.

1. 20m 17 Climb a shallow recess up to an overhang. Move right onto a wall below a small, well defined recess with a crack. Continue up until it is possible to move right onto a wall (missing out a bunch of aloes above in the name of conservation). Climb the wall and continue moving slightly left to a ledge.

2. 23m 17 Continue up the recess above the stance, which in turn forms an open book, topped by an overhang. Climb until it is possible to traverse left to a rib. As a guide, there is a large spike of rock stuck to the crease of the open book. Traverse well below this to the rib. Continue up to a broken wall and climb to a shelf below a small brown overhang. (Protection very good. The next moves are very awkward and possibly 19 grade for short people.) Climb up and hand-traverse over right to a foothold on the corner. Continue up to a large ledge with a tree.

3. 15m 10 Continue climbing above the stance on easy rock to a convenient belay.

Situated 4 - 5m left of 'Roman Candle'.

1. 20m 10 Climb up the easy rock spur until able to traverse right across a wall and up to first tree on a ledge.

2. 20m 13 (At this point it is easy to traverse right to the top of the first pitch of 'Roman Candle') Continue above the tree belay stance onto left wall of a small recess. Move up and left, out, the recess onto a wall. Climb up to a small cubby hole, and a tree.

3. 20m 11 Continue up obvious breaks in the rock to top.

The climb takes a route up a giant V-shaped recess 18m left of 'Tower Of Pisa' .

1. 40m 9 Climb straight up recess.

2. 25m 10 Move left and up a step as for the chimney. Traverse left to another step. Continue traversing left to an edge. Continue moving left across small open books to easy ground. Advisable to belay here.

3. ?m 8 Continue to climb up diagonally left on grade 8 rock to top.

Variation:

2 25m 13 Continue up the chimney above unstable rock to a ledge. Traverse, left for 5m and continue up the ledge on loose rock. (This pitch is not recommended.)

Start on a buttress about 150m to the right of the left-hand descent gully. Just to the right of this buttress are two bushes about 3m apart. About 5m up is a crack in a corner.

1. 33m 13 Scramble about 5m to base of crack and climb crack to grassy platform. Above the platform is another crack in a V-shaped groove. Climb this for about 5m to a tree belay.

2. 25m 11 Climb the chimney above, exit left at the top, then move back right and up arete to the top.

Starts at the foot of the ridge at the lowest point to the east of the western descent gully.

1. 30m 10 Start from the obvious tree and climb up slightly left of the ridge. At 25m move left and mantle shelf onto a sloping ledge. Continue up the wall to belay.

2. 25m 9 Step right and climb directly to the top over a series of large steps.

Note: The party was feeling its age.

Just to the east of the western descent gully is a compact grey face, split at half height by a ledge. The route goes up the center of the wall and then moves to the left edge to avoid the line of overhangs stretching across the face. Start at the left side of a small pillar approximately in the center of the face. Cairn.

1. 35m 13 Climb up on small holds for 3m until a series of layback holds enables a tree to be reached. Continue up 10m to the obvious tree on the ledge at half-height. Climb the wall behind the tree for about 4m until it is possible to traverse to another tree on the left edge (4m) overlooking the descent gully. Belay at the foot of a steep holdless groove.

2. 15m 10 Traverse below the holdless groove to a second groove, which is followed to the top.

Starts at top of grass slope about 45m to left of broken, overhanging and cave-ridden blackish rock.

1. 30m 8 From start bear left over rock to prominent grass ledge.

2. 30m 3 Traverse along grass ledge to right 30m to base of ridge forming western bounds of a recess below brownish broken overhangs.

3. 25m 10 Bear over to face on right then work back to left across recess to ridge above starting point.

4. 25m 9 Traverse right across recess and below brown overhangs to crack on right of overhangs.

5. 25m 9 Vertically up 9m then traverse left to top of overhangs.

Note: Route involves a considerable amount of traversing.

Starts 5 to 10m to right of 'Rheebok Crag' but crosses latter on grass ledge and finishes to left thereof. The climb follows the line of a crack or recess which is the most important feature to left of 'Rheebok Crag'. The route adheres to this feature in an almost direct line.

A clearly defined cleft or crack extending the whole height of the krantz and about 45m to left of start of 'Rheebok Crag'. There is a clump of three trees - the only ones in the vicinity - at the top of the slope to the right of the cleft.

1. 18m 8 Up ridge to left of recess leading to grass ledge.

2. 25m 10 Original route proceeds straight up cleft on right but a more interesting variation is to start on face to left of cleft. The first 5m involves a difficult section thence easing off on a route which bears to right and joins the cleft.

3. 18m 9 Climb on left ridge of cleft up to a tree where cleft widens out into a crack forming a sort of cave.

4. 18m 8 Chimney work up interior to cleft.

The first pitch is the same as that for 'Aloe Cleft', but when the grass ledge is reached, traverse left to a rock buttress about 6m high.

1. 18m 8 As for 'Aloe Cleft'.

2. 25m 10 Up on right of buttress then bear right through a broken overhanging section to easier rock above.

3. 22m 9 Bear left to an adequate stance on grassy ledge directly above buttress.

4. 25m 8 An obvious route direct to top.

Variation: An alternative route from the top buttress may be taken for the second pitch. This goes up a face to left of the route described, is grade 9 and joins up at the grass ledge.

The start of this climb may be recognised by a huge wedge-shaped rook near the top of the krantz which appears to be stuck in a recess formed by a face on its right and an overhanging buttress on its left. This feature is 100 - 150m left of 'Aloe Cleft'.

1. 18m 7 Scramble up easy grey face to grass ledge.

2. 28m 10 Ascend grey face to right of buttress immediately below wedge-shaped rook at top of climb. This route goes up just to right of a recess formed between buttress and face.

3. 25m 10 Traverse right 12m then up inclining to right making for stance be low crack.

4. 12m 9 Up in recess or crack to a stance below overhanging block on right of wedge-shaped rock previously referred to and on the same level as its base.

5. 12m 9 To right around block into recess then straight up.

Variations: These variations are of like standard to the second and final pitches. Instead of the last 2 pitches, climb prominent white ridge to the right.

The route follows the general line of a small buttress immediately to the left of 'Paramount Face'.

1. 18m 6 Scramble up an easy grey face to the foot of the buttress and traverse along a grassy ledge as far as a steep grey face to the right of the buttress.

2. 22m 10 Commencing about 5m to the right of the recess between the buttress and the grey face, climb straight up the grey face to a long broad ledge. A tree belay is available by climbing another 5m but the ledge itself is adequate as a stance.

3. 12m 8 Traverse horizontally left to a small stance on the buttress.

4. 22m 11 Ascend the buttress on small holds on the face and climb a crack above the belay point. At the top of the crack traverse 3m left to a small stance below an overhang.

5. 25m 15 Traverse back into the top of the crack and continue traversing to right as high as possible onto, and around, the right hand corner of the buttress, reaching a small cubbyhole on the corner in an exposed position. To the right of the cubbyhole around a second small corner is a brown face with a crack running in it and a few small sloping footholds. Climb this face for 6m to a ledge with a block on it then traverse to left around the corner to the face of the buttress and ascend this face for 6m to a good stance.

Note: Small stances. Party should not exceed 4.

Start below first cutback 150 - 200m to right of 'Upthrust' at a beacon below right hand of two recess.

1. 40m 11 Up 5m to base of recess. Traverse right onto buttress which is climbed for 9m. Then traverse left to gully which is followed to large ledge.

2. 40m 11 Traverse left 6m into base of deep recess. Climb up recess, past steep bulge, for 22m and then diagonally up right to ledge on arete.

3. 30m 13 Up arete bearing slightly right. Move right at 9m across steep face and continue up arete to large ledge. Scramble to top.

About 200m right of 'Eureka Gully' is a prominent sharp arete extending almost the full height of the crag. Immediately left is an obvious corner with a triangular overhang at 2/3 height and on its left is a black wall capped by overhangs. The route follows the corner to the triangular overhang, then traverse left and directly through the top overhang where they funnel up to the high point. (See photograph.) Scramble up the grass slope to the base of the corner (30m 8). or alternatively climb the rock spur on the left and traverse right to the base of the corner (43m 8). Peg belay.

1. 34m 19 Climb 8m up the corner past a grassy ramp then traverse 8m diagonally left to a grass ledge on the face (peg runner). Move a few metres above the ledge and traverse back right into the corner just above a small overhang. Climb up the corner until forced onto the left face below a bulge, and up to a small stance and peg belay.

2. 25m 17 Move diagonally up leftwards and up a shallow groove to a ledge on the left at 9m (peg runner). Continue up the groove and the face above as far as possible (6m) until a move right can be made into the corner crack. (Moving into the bottom of the crack is much harder.) Follow the corner crack then move leftwards and up to a large chock belay 9m below the overhang.

3. 17m 17 Climb up the corner mainly on the right wall to a chock runner under the overhang, then move down and traverse 8m left about 2m below the overhang to a ledge and peg belay.

4. 23m 15 Continue the traverse left 2m below the overhang then move up onto the arete. Traverse a further 6m and climb 3m up the wall then traverse back right to the small ledge, and peg belay just above the overhang.

5. 43m 19 Climb up leftwards to the base of the steep crack which threads the final overhangs (15m). Climb up to a shallow recess then up the left wall directly to the crack above the bulge (last 5m on small holds). From here continue easily to the top.

Note: The route is much better than general 'Skeerpoort' climbs, providing sustained climbing and a fitting climax through the final overhangs.

The climb takes the prominent rib which goes up the highest faces in the Magaliesberg. The rib lies about 200m to the right of Eureka Gully. 'Upthrust' goes up just to the left of the rib. 50m of grade 7 scrambling (as for 'Upthrust') leads to the foot of the rib.

1. 40m 13 Start about 7m to the right of the centre of the rib. Climb the face, which is steep at first for 10m then either continue diagonal left up the groove or traverse right to the corner and ascend it. Protection is scarce. Scramble up the grassy slope to the foot of the corner which runs up the right-hand side of the rib.

2. 43m 17 Climb up the ledges to the left of the corner for 10m then continue up the corner / chimney. Turning the small overhang in the corner / chimney at 25m is the crux. Continue up till it is possible to traverse 5m left to a small very exposed stance on the centre of the rib.

3. 43m 11 From the right side of the stance, climb up 5m then traverse left to the large ledge. Climb the chimney that leads from the back of the ledge to the top.

From the main descent gully at Eureka, traverse right along the faces (i.e. towards Hartebeestpoort). After 300m one crosses a fence and at the same time the cliff has changed from short greyish faces to long black ones topped by overhangs in most places. The fence is level with the end of these faces. The cliff now becomes more vegetated and has a few long cracks cleaving it height. As one continues the cliff loses height and its base becomes more broken. The climb starts at the base of the first large break in the face. About one third of the way up can be seen a deep open book recess leading to the top. On the right of the recess there is a long thin tower of rock terminating in a 6m face at the top. Scramble 15m (B - C) diagonally left to the base of a reddish open book which lies on the left of the large recess.

1. 34m 13 Ascend the rock at the open book for 9m and traverse diagonally right onto a licheny ramp and up. At the top of the ramp is an open book. Ascend this to a broad ledge, which is the start of the 'chimney/open book'.

2. 15m 10 Traverse right to the pinnacle of rock leaning against the face. Ascend this to its top. Caution should be exercised as the rock is not too firm.

3. 9m 13 Take off directly above the pinnacle onto the steep face. Move left to a crack and ascend it for 3m (6m 13). Continue easily to the top. Rock is poor on this pitch and should be tested. Note: The first pitch is very pleasant, but the following pitches are somewhat less satisfactory, owing to the quality of the rock. Protection is poor on the first pitch.

Start as for 'Chicken Feed'.

1. 9m 9 Climb easily to a ledge, as for 'Chicken Feed'.

2. 24m 13 Traverse right for 6m over dark rock, then up about 9m and back left to a stance behind a large block.

3. 24m 15 Move up a small corner behind the stance to a small overhang. Traverse left onto a small arete and climb past the overhang. Then diagonally right to a stance on vulture ledges.

4. 30m 10 Climb more or less straight up to the large overhangs at the top of the face. Then traverse left until it is possible to scramble easily to the top.

Located 100 - 150m east of 'Eureka Gully'. The climb usually starts from the broad grass band or ledge which is about 30m above the top of the grass slope and may be reached by a number of easy routes. The commencement from this grass ledge is marked by a beacon about 9m to the right of a small cave.

1. 9m 10 Straight up on good holds for 9m to a small stance near a long rift running towards a very pronounced overhang with a green slab underneath.

2. 22m 13 Delicate sideways traverse of a short slab to a wide crack, then straight up and slightly to left for 18m to a good stance 6m under an overhang.

3. 9m 15 The stance is in a corner between the main face underneath the overhang and a small rib of rock projecting 1m to the left. Climb in this corner to directly under the overhang then stretch to left on to the rib which forms a 90o angle with the face. A small stance is then reached.

4. 15m 9 On good rock, climb 3m slightly to left slanting to right to a wide grass stance.

5. ?m ? Scramble to top.

Starts at a tree on the grass ledge about 18m to left of 'Chicken Feed'.

1. 9m 10 Straight up in right angled recess directly above tree to a cave.

2. 18m 9 Traverse right 18m from cave to small stance with good belay.

3. 12m 9 Up slightly to right for 9m to a corner, then out left about 2m then back to right for belay. Poor stance with room for 2 only.

4. 18m 15 Up slightly to right through small tree and over thin rotten section. Bear left over grass and loose rock leading further up to left to a small grass ledge.

Note: The climb is not recommended in view of loose and dirty section in fourth pitch.

Starts from grass ledge, about 9m to left of 'Lunacy' and 3m to right of a buttress projecting from the face. The climb follows an almost vertical line up the face from the starting beacon, in 3 or 4 pitches of grade 8 climbing. Climbs directly up the buttress and on left of buttress, also of grade 8, are considered variations of 'Eureka Face'.

This climb is usually commenced from the top of the grass slope a few meters right of 'Eureka Gully' , and ascends the first band of rock in 2 or 3 pitches of 9 standard to the broad grass ledge. Start from the grass ledge below a long grey face to the left of EUREKA FACE. The climb proceeds straight up the face in a series of pitches of grade 9.

Starting almost in the gully, this climb follows an almost direct line over the grass ledge and straight to the summit. The start from the grass ledge is cairned.

Follows a line to right of 'Eureka Gully', where a number of grade 8 routes may be selected. Leaves line of gully towards the top and goes straight up to summit.

One movement towards bottom of gully may be classed as 8, otherwise this is an easy route of about 6 standard to the summit of the escarpment.

There are several easy routes up the buttress on the left of 'Eureka Gully'. The easier climbs are chosen to start from the broken rock on the inner side, i.e. the gully side. Several routes exist further to the left, e.g. 'Agony View', but the first two pitches of these leading to the first broad ledge are of slightly higher standard.

Ambles up the ridge left of 'Eureka Buttress'.

The climb lies between 'Black Man's Burden' and 'Agony View' .

1. 35m 13 Climb nose of small grey face and proceed up to small open book. Step up into crack and then out to left at once on thin footholds. Belay above.

2. 35m 13 Continue over mixed grass and rock to large ledge with much evidence of vulture occupation.

3. 35m 3 Walk left along ledge to small beacon.

4. 30m 13 Climb up 6m, traverse left 4m and then up on good holds to ledge. Up left of gully - mantle shelf. Continue to top.

Notes:

1. Geological beacon No.2 at top of climb.

2. Rock generally clean and steep with good holds.

This climb follows a definite grassy cleft running up the entire height of 'Eureka Buttress' approximately at its centre. Several alternatives present themselves.

The climb starts about 150m right of 'Four Man Gully' in a prominent chimney.

1. 38m 17 Up in the chimney 25m to the overhang and continue up to a small stance.

2. 30m 15 Follow the chimney to a good stance on the right-hand side.

3. 30m 9 Continue to the top.

Immediately to right of 'Four Man Gully' the crag is steep and foreboding. Further to right the upper section of the face lies back in the form of a bay or large recess where a good size tree is growing 20m below the top of the krantz. Below this tree is a smooth 6m slab which on closer acquaintance proves to be deeply slotted. It is bounded on the left by a wall and above by a clean-cut overhang tapering away to the right. The route attains the foot of the slab by a 15m grassy crack running up to the left. The slab can either be avoided by a 5m traverse right and an ascent of the rocks immediately to the right of the slab, but more merit is acquired by ascending the corner on the left of the slab and crossing the top of the slab to the right just below the overhang. The large bay is now reached whence an easy route could be made out to the left. It is more interesting however, to continue the direct line of the climb and avoid the final wall by a traverse on to the buttress on the right.

Variation (not recommended – loose rock): The lower section has been more recently climbed as follows:

1. 15m 10 Climb the semi-grassy crack running up left into an open book.

2. 10m 11 Move up and left to the foot of an inverted pyramid of rock where tons of rock appear to be supported on a single small square block. Enter the crack to the right, move delicately round the pyramid and climb onto its front edge. Continue onto the long grassy slope below the upper section.

The start and most of the first pitch are the same as for 'Cremation'.

1. 40m 11 Start directly below the right side of the right-hand and lower of two massive overhangs. Ascend the prominent open scoop that leads up to the overhang. After 5m move left into a smaller open book and ascend this to the slab (18m). Traverse left across the slab for 22m to a grassy stance 6m from the left end of the slab.

2. 16m 13 Move 3m left to a small open book. Ascend this and continue directly up the face passing to left of a small spike (pinnacle). Finally ascend a short narrow steep chimney to a large ledge.

3. 40m 11 Traverse about 9m left to avoid the overhangs above to a small nose via one or two awkward moves. After a few good moves the climbing eases. Continue directly up to a large ledge (18m). Walk left down the ledge to belay at the foot of the prominent chimney.

4. 18m 13 Ascend the chimney overcoming the overhang by chimneying to a one man stance (peg) with very smooth slab to right and the overhanging corner above.

5. 8m 17 Traverse delicately across the slab to a small stance.

6. 40m 8 Climb up to a small yellow-wood tree and then climb to right of a gully. After another 30m of steep grassy scrambling the grade eases.

Start about 100m right of 'Four Man Gully' and about 2m left of the fence, below a large overhang. At this point the face is split by two lines of overhangs. The route follows a crack on the left-hand side of the lower overhang and avoids the upper overhang on the right. A diagonal traverse back to the left gains arete which is followed to the summit.

1. 40m 11 Follow a ramp slanting to the left for about 18m to gain an obvious slab. Continue in the same diagonal line across the slab to a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and belay at the bottom of a crack level with the first overhang.

2. 20m 15 Climb the crack for 8m (Awkward to start), step right to reach the arete and traverse a few meters to a detached flake. Climb up a few meters on to the top of the flake (care needed here) and then traverse 6m to a good ledge and peg belay.

3. 45m 10 Climb straight up from the belay for 5m and then move diagonally left to reach an obvious arete. Follow the arete to the top.

Starts a few meters up 'Four Man Gully' on the true left hand side just to the left of a tree, opposite 'Sidewinder-Direct'. About 15m above are fairly large overhangs.

1. 20m 20 Climb the scooped face for 3m, then climb up to the right until one can traverse right to the arete. Move around this, and climb the corner above to a foothold stance where the rock steepens.

2. 25m 17 Traverse left to the edge of nothing, up and out of sight, to easier ground ledges lead down leftwards to the 4-man chocks). Climb laid-back rock to belay comfortably beneath the final steep section.

3. 20m 13 Up cracks and faces to summit.

Walk up 'Four Man Gully' and start climbing at the first overhangs.

1. 4m 20 Climb up on the true left to a ledge leading South (i.e. on 'Skeerpoort').

2. 40m 8 Walk along this ledge to a stance where the ledge ends. This is the top of 'Rattler'.

3. 15m 13 Climb up easy ground to a large stance from where the impressive brown overhanging face can be seen. The next pitch gets to the base of this face.

4. 15m 20 Traverse right for 3m to a corner. From the corner move right, first on small holds then to a jug. From the jug climb up diagonally right to a stance in another corner. The overhanging brown face is up and to the right.

5. 25m 17 Climb the corner. Move 1m left where the line diverges. Climb past a large roof, which is on the left, by lay-backing a flake. Stance on easy ground.

Note: Pitch 4 makes it "worthwhile".

This route climbs an amazing crack system up the ‘impressive brown face’ referred to in 'Mixed Grill'. This overhanging face is clearly visible from the start of 'Four Man Gully' , high up on the 'Skeerpoort' side and not on the dome itself. Walk up 'Four Man Gully' and scramble up chocked boulders until able to scramble (almost) right around towards the steep face. One is now at the start of pitch 4 of 'Mixed Grill'.

1. 15m 20 As for pitch 4 of 'Mixed Grill'. i.e. traverse right for 3m to a corner. From the corner move right, first on small holds then to a jug. From jug, climb up diagonally right to a stance in another corner.

2. 35m 21 To get into the crack system running up the steep wall, climb down from the stance, then up wall. Climb crack system until bulge. Make a hard move over bulge and up an amazing hand jam crack and excellent rock. Climb the very steep crack until angle eases. Continue jamming until able to stance at tree. Amazing!

Climbs the overhanging blocky wall opposite 'Pasta Noises' and "Trundle Time'. Holes for about 5 bolts drilled, but no bolts added. Will need additional trad gear.

The gully to the left of Eureka Buttress. This is blocked by a series of huge overhanging chockstones, the surmounting of which involves a short pitch of grade 10 climbing on the right.

Situated on the true left of the gully above the large chockstone and 7m to the right of 'Breaking New Ground'.

1. 30m 24 Climb the obvious steep crack past a bolt and a peg then up easier rock to a rap point. Superb climbing.

?

Start 20m up 'Four Man Gully' where a horizontal break cuts across the steep smooth gully wall. This is the right-hand wall of Eureka Dome.

1. 30m 19 Traverse left along the break to meet a vertical crack after 12m. Move up to the bulge and using undercuts move up right to a peg (in place), level with the bottom of the groove. Make an awkward move away from the peg to gain the groove, which is followed more easily. Move out left at the top and up right to peg belay below a steep scoop face. (This is at the horizontal fault running across the crag)

2. 12m 17 Ascend the scoop face above with strenuous moves then step right to a ledge and peg belay.

3. 15m 11 Ascend the rib above on the right to a tree belay in a corner.

4. 22m 10 Move up leftwards then across left over slabs to a tree belay.

5. 15m 8 Scramble to the top.

A direct start has been made to the vertical crack mentioned in pitch 1, by entering its base at grade 22, by C. Lomax and D. Cheesmond in 1980.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone about 10m right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 30m 22 Climb the obvious cracks up the wall to the break. Traverse left to the top of the first pitch of 'Sidewinder-Direct' and 'The Day Of The Smells'.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone. Start just right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 35m 24 Climb the thin discontinuous crack to the ledge.

The route ascends the steep grooves at the right of the buttress and follows the steep impressive corner above. Start 5m left of 'Four Man Gully' below the steepest groove.

1. 25m 19 Climb the groove to where it steepens at 6m. Ascend the smooth section, then climb a hollow flake on the right wall. From the top of this, traverse awkwardly onto a very sloping ledge. Traverse a further 6m left using a good handrail to a small ledge and chockstone belays.

2. 22m 17 Traverse 6m left and climb a very steep groove on good holds stepping left immediately above a small overhang. Climb the wall through aloes to a good ledge and peg belay in the horizontal fault running across the crag.

3. 8m 10 Ascend the recess leading up to the huge overhanging corner to a small stance and peg belay on the left.

4. 14m 19 Move up the bulging crack to the first overhang and using the left wall make a difficult move round it. Pass the second overhang using a wide crack to gain the easier-angled groove above. You may see an old wooden block from the original ascent. Lots of bird poo.

5. 25m 19 Make an awkward initial move into the corner above and ascend this with difficulty to 2m below the roof. Swing across the left wall and pull round into a shallow groove which is climbed to its top. Swing back right into the main corner above the roof and up to a good ledge and peg belay. A magnificent, well sustained pitch.

6. 15m 8 Move left and scramble to the top.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [19] 28m

   Climb a loose wall for 6m and step right to the foot of the central groove. Up this using the corner crack to a tiny stance with nut and thread belays at the top.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [17] 28m

   Climb 4m up corner crack. Hand-traverse left to edge and continue to traverse crack and chimney, then up to obvious small stance.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

Start in the descent gully on the left (west) side of the 'Eureka Buttress', opposite a large tree, the trunk of which forks 8m up (the tree is at the foot of the other wall of the gully.)

1. 20m 20 Ascend 6m, traverse 8m right to base of steep crack which runs up slightly overhanging wall. Ascend crack 8m (5 pitons) to small stance on sloping grey/orange slab. Piton belay.

2. 12m 19 Traverse 5m left, either high or low to crack. Ascend crack 4m. (5 pitons) A good move is made from the last piton over the overhang to the bottom of a flat, more easily sloping slab. Ascend 3m up slab to small piton stance.

3. 15m 19 Ascend face and recess above stance to a double stepped square overhang. Climb the overhang at its right end on the line of the recess (2 pitons). A mantle shelf brings one to a comfortable ledge.

4. 12m 8 Ascend diagonally right. Piton stance.

5. 22m 10 Diagonally right up ramp to the point where rock steepens and becomes red again. Stance on comfortable ledge. (Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined if preferred).

6. 18m 13 Up 6m, going initially left, then traverse 5m right above and past stance, ascend to level of traverse beneath overhang. Traverse right to stance in chimney.

7. 18m 10 Up chimney to ledge.

8. 6m 13 Walk left to block under the roof. Swing left and ascend a short steep section through the summit overhang. (As for finish of 'Birdbrain')

The route is to the left of 'Poacher'. It starts in almost the same place as POACHER but climbs up a mild corner approximately 13m left of POACHER'S crux pitch. A wide ledge which starts in the gully ends directly above the corner.

1. 20m 17 Climb onto a 2m buttress to start. Move diagonally left into the corner. Up this to 4m below a roof. There is a smooth slab on the right.

2. 18m 20 Climb diagonally right up the slab to a rail. Above is a 2m bulge. Ascend the bulge on jugs to stance on a ledge.

3. 15m 13 Walk right along the ledge then ascend a few meters to stance below a steep broken face.

4. 20m 20 Climb technically up the face. The stance is directly above the previous stance and is gained by pulling over a bulge to a ledge on the right of the vague corner. There is a large roof 5m above.

5. 20m 20 Traverse left to stance in a corner on easier looking rock.

6. 30m 19 Climb the corner above, exiting left at about 5m. Continue up diagonally left to the top.

Start 30m left of the descent gully west of 'Eureka Dome' closely follow the rock edge on leaving the descent gully to reach a small buttress with a wide diagonal crack on its right surmounted by a large tree.

1. 30m 13 Climb 4m on grey rock to a pile of loose blocks at the base of a 12m layback type crack slanting 20o right in brown rock. Climb the crack (crux) and scramble up scruffy grade 8 rock to a face capped by brown overhangs.

2. 12m 10 Move up 3m and traverse right 9m to easy rock. Walk off into gully.

Note: A short exercise close to the meet point. Two persons can complete the round trip in less than one hour.

To the left of the 'Aftermath' buttress is a shorter buttress. About halfway along this buttress is an obvious corner. Start beneath the corner.

1. 30m 18 Climb the corner until suspect rock forces one to traverse right 5m. Climb the face to a good ledge.

2. 30m 13 Move diagonally right and up past some bushes to a ledge.

3. 40m 8 Climb non-descript rock to the top.

To the right of 'Steppenwolf' there is a prominent rib. The climb is up the right-hand side of this rib.

1. 40m 15 Climb up right of a tree protruding from a steep face. Move up into a crack running up this face. Climb to a ledge and traverse left to the rib. Climb up the right hand side of the rib until the rock overhangs slightly. Move left around the rib and up to a ledge. Continue up easy-angled rock to the top.

Note: The climb may be broken into two pitches.

The route takes the obvious chimney that runs the full height of the krantz and lies 50m downstream of RHEBOK GULLY.

1. 23m 13 Climb the chimney and continue up the face to the left of the recess. Move to the face on the right side of the recess and climb it until level with the overhang blocking the chimney above. Traverse left to the overhang and pull through to gain a good stance.

2. 20m 11 Continue up the chimney to the top.

50m downstream of Reebok Gully is an obvious chimney running the height of the cliff. Start 5m to the left of this below a very steep white face which leads to a band of overhangs 30m up.

1. 10m 11 Climb the short rock band to a large ledge directly below the steep white face.

2. 35m 17 Climb the steep orange face to the overhang 18m up. Traverse 3m left to the end of the overhang and climb the open book above for 2m before traversing right onto the nose. Continue up to the ledge.