루트들 Cape Winelands에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Step thru the tree and onto the ledge that houses the corner crack. You might want to rope up for this. Climb the corner to the roof. Clip the bolt and pull thru onto the face. Follow the thinner right-hand crack to finish just right of the block. The top is technical and on small gear, your belayer can't see you. There is a belay bolt at the top.

CLOSED PROJECT!

Short but engaging start to finish-technical

, one of the best in the 'Valhella Area'

Start: the next column right of 'Valkyrie' Climb the obvious crack to the top.

Climb the right arete of the lower face. After the ledge above this arete, stay on the face of the slab above, using the right arete once again. Moving off the face of the top slab (into the corner around the arete) will take you onto 'Bonfire Arete (Alternate)'.

Start above and right of 'Melting Pot' Climb the left hand crack

Start on the right side of the gray/white pillar. Climb up onto a block, carry on up and left to access two cracks on very orange rock, climb this slab, headed for the roof/ corner above. Exit the coner to the right, then up a pocketed face. Above and right is a bolted stance, which is a good place to belay from as your seconds might fall at the roof crux and this ensures less work for yourself.

Walk below the crag till to just before the path steps down/ Just before the trees. The route starts in an alcove with a fairly large cairn.

1. 19 15m

   Start on the left of the alcove till able to stem across, pull up to the right of the bulge to gain a pedestal. Step right to gain the finger crack. climbs this to exit left and up to the top. Once at the ledge walk 4-6m left.

2. 19 25m

   Climb the recess to just a few meters below the roof, when possible traverse left. Continue diagonally left on good rails.

" It is a beautiful corner. That corner deserves full marks, which I rarely bestow on any pitch. I thought that I was on a classic Cederberg route in that corner." Tinnie Versfeld (2022)

1. [19] 15m

   Climb P1 'The Ashes' stance in the corner/ recess. Do not walk left.

2. [18] 15m

   Climb the right tending corner/ recess to just a few meters below the rhombus (parallelogram) roof, when possible traverse left on a good finger rail stepping across a corner then round to easier ground. Climb up to the overhangs. Just below the overhangs there are loose large rectangular blocks, be mindful to not dislodge them. Traverse left till the route starts to head up again. Stance here.

3. [18] 15m

   Continuing left diagonally up through the stepped roofs till able to exit a small left facing corner. A trunk size block resting on the vegetated ledge marks the end of the route. A large protea tree to the left makes a good anchor point.

A bold route for summer days, strong arms and good nerves. Epics have been had here.

Start: the start of the route is the same as that for Exposure in F Major.

1. Climb the left hand variation on the first pitch of Exposure.

2. Scramble along the ledge to the left and climb via a short chimney/crack to the top of a pillar next to a tree.

3. From the pillar move up 5m then right (2 Pitons) and pull up to a handrail. Continue right to a stance.

4. Climb straight up, then move slightly left and climb up to a ledge. traverse left to a point directly above the start of pitch 1.

5. Pull up through a small overhang then move left. Climb up the recess (6m) then swing right to a small ledge. Climb up a shallow recess , past the overhang, then move right to reach a corner. Layback up to a small stance.

6. Traverse left around a corner (12m), then diagonally left to a niche. Move up to the right then back left to a small stance. Climb up a jam crack to a better stance (3m)

7. Move up a recess to brown flakes then up a jam-crack on the left. Move up via large flakes to a stance.

8. Walk left to the end of the ledge, then traverse around the bulge to a ledge at the bottom of a gully.

9. Move left into a chimney, ascend this and move out into an open gully.

10. From the block indicating the start of a traverse to the right, step down and continue right and climb up to a grassy ledge.

11. Climb a grassy grove and step right at the top. Climb up to an overhang which is side-stepped to the left.

12. Climb a V-shaped grove to a creaking block at the top of a crack, swing right on tiny footholds and pull up onto a small flat ledge. Continue up via a nose to the right to a small stance.

13. From the stance swing down to foot-grips below a slab. Climb the slab into a scoop, step down, cross a crack and up on the rib to the right to a small stance.

14. Traverse right around a bulging corner.

15. Step down, traverse right to a spectacular corner (E1), then up via a smooth hand-jam crack to a stance.

16. Climb a water-shoot type ramp to a small stance below a bottomless crack breaking through an overhang above.

17. Climb the crack to below an overhang, step down onto a corner on the right, move around this up past a ledge and up the face above. Traverse left to an expose corner and up via a crack to a stance.

18. Traverse somewhat left and climb more or less straight up to the top.

Approach: Walk past the pilon and after about 15min head into the forest just after the short scramble on the walk-up to Yellowwood

The route traverses starts 2m right of the water drip and collection point at the more or less in the middle of the Divine Time Buttress. The start is marked with a cairn place on a block.

1. (19) 55m Do a couple of moves up the white rock and place a high large cam. Crank through to a jug - a bit rounded if you are short. Continue straight up the good quality grey rock to a ledge at 35m or so. Stance here or continue for another 10m up the obvious recess and step right onto the face/pillar and continue to a ledge with some blocks at the base of the orange rock.

2. (19) 25m Head for the left leaning red recessed ramp and continue to below a large overhang and make a stance on a perch.

3. (19) 25m Move right and climb through the overhang on the right. One can place excellent gear at the lip from an under-cling in the corner under the over-hang. Make sure you have very long slings to avoid drag if you choose to leave gear in the rail under the overhang. Swing out right and climb diagonally up right avoiding the chossy channel on the left. Follow the good rock diagonally right passing the first triangular overhang and continue past the second, larger triangular overhang on the right and then straight up as per the topo to a belay ledgeto stance on a large ledge.

4. (19) 50m Place a 1 inch cam up on the right. Climb up the flakes first using jugs and then lay-back after placing the very obvious 2.5 inch cam (gold camelot or equivalent). Above you are huge roofs. Move up to under the roof and then pull through the obvious notch to find yourself under another massive roof system. Exit this on the right and then climb straight up the arete to belay left of a large yellow wood tree/bush.

5. (18) 20m Climb the obvious recess using the flakes and then do a crank through the overlap to continue more easily to the top.

Descent walk left, (EAST) about 40m to the Timerity abseil.

Notes (Snort).

1. The single hardest move especially if you are short stature is 3m off the ground.

2. This route is steep and consistent and pumpy at the grade. It has about as much 19 grade climbing as all the grade 19 pitches -combined - on Africa or Fountain Ledges so you need to be quite climbing fit. None of the actual moves are as hard as say the crux on Last Laugh but there are lots and lots of them. You should be competent and fit enough to do grade 20 one pitch routes on trad before doing this route.

3. The protection is excellent especially at the cruxes. However, at Yellowwood the routes and pitches are long and run-outs are part and parcel of the climbing experience there. Otherwise you can easily run out of time especially in winter.

4. It can be climbed all year round and is dry within two days of rain.

5. If you have an epic the route is steep so easy to rap off bollards and threads.

6. Some climbers who have done Good Time reckon the routes is improved by linking to the top pitches on Good Time after doing the 3rd pitch. This might be so but pitch 4 is excellent and pitch 5 also has decent climbing with a spicy crux at the grade. Good Time in its own right is a 5 star route and has consistent grade 19 climbing with only a short 4m crux through the roof. Unless you have a visitor who is climbing once off at Yellowwood I strongly recommend doing each route independently.

7. Gear: Standard rack of wires and cams with double cams of alternate sizes say as some of the pitches are long. No micro nuts or micro cams are necessary. 50m ropes are fine but then you will have to use the optional stance of pitch 1 which is no big deal.

8. The climbing is steep and intimidating but it flows nicely. It is grade 19! and all the cruxes can be protected before committing to the moves. Once committed to a crux, remember it is grade 19. That means you will be able to climb safely for not more than a metre or two before you will be reasonably comfortable to put out more pro.

9. Finding the Timerity descent is easy from here. You can see the red rope tat from the final belay stance on top of the Divine Time Buttress. Facing out look down and to your right and you will see red rope tat (As at June 2016) at the start of the long grassy floured ledge topped by the overhang (cave).

From the grassy sleeping cave ascend to the huge descent gully to reach the huge chockstone obstruction. Traverse 40m out to the right to a left facing corner.

1. [15] 45m

   Climb up from the beacon for 3m then move right up the corner for 2m. Move right onto the white face with the big 'Kaapse' (Cape) jugs to a big ledge.

2. [19] 45m

   Walk 10m to the left to a cairn (and the world's softest belay). Climb up the obvious gnarled crack to the left of a left-facing recess. Halfway up the crack runs out. Then climb the grey slab on small holds; this looks blank from below but goes, continue to a ledge beneath a large roof.

3. [19] 25m

   Move to the right then up a crack to the top. Step around the corner and take a few steps to a wonderful platform below the overhang.

4. [19] 45m

   Climb up to the base of the roof then move left on rickety flakes to a break through the roof via an awkward notch. Once over the roof climb diagonally right to the edge of the buttress. Climb the slot for a few hard moves and continue up to a 2m wide stance (with teeny cairn)

5. [19] 45m

   Climb the crack to a jam crack then through an overlap and up a further series of cracks to the top.

Walk along the ledge at the base of the Castle to the right hand corner. The route starts up the obvious rib right of an off-width crack with a chock stone in it. Castle Corner starts on the face a meter or two to the right.

1. [30] 17m

   Ascend the juggy wall, tending slightly right until you reach the roof. Move left a couple of meters until it is possible to pull through the roof on jugs and climb to a stance below large blocks.

2. [18] 48m

   The Sublime Crack pitch. Climb up over a series of blocks for 15m until you find yourself at the base of an open book. Climb up this and then diagonally right for a few moves, before moving up and left into the base of the Sublime Crack. Climb the crack until it peters out and then head right around the edge and up an exposed jug-infested face to a narrow ledge. A stunning pitch.

3. [42] 17m

   Above you is a chimney. Climb the right hand wall on huge jugs for 5m, and then traverse left, stepping across the chimney and onto a dinosaur-back ridge. Climb the ridge and then easy ground until you find yourself on a good ledge. To the left of a deep crack is an exposed little platform. Traverse for ±2-4 m to this, then tending left for 15m on easy ground to a wide grassy ledge. Scramble up to the far left corner of the ledge.

4. [19] 30m

   Above and to the left is a pair of parallel cracks (with yellow edges) cutting through an overhanging bulge. Head up to and through these until the crack widens to an off width. Move delicately left onto a wildly exposed slably face, just shy of the left corner/ edge of tower. Continue up to a square, sloping ledge. An exciting pitch.

5. [50] 16m

   Step up and right to climb a series of immaculate faces and cracks to the top. This can be easily broken into two pitches.

Start in a corner capped by a triangular roof

Start 2m left of the corner on a flat wedged block. Stand on top of the wedged block and head up the thin right facing corner to the roof, rail left onto a small ledge. Cut back right to a short crack (almost inline with the route start) Climb the crack to stance.

Permadraw at anchor

Permadraws at the anchor

On the middle tier below Out on a Limb. Climb the obvious corner crack, break left at the top roof to stand on a ledge. Climb up a crimpy face off the ledge, into a diagonal upwards plates section and then top out below the top tier routes. The birdshit was mostly cleaned off

Use the same abseil point as for Rudd's Route but angle in towards the main amphitheatre to gain a ledge below a series of steps and just above the big base overhang.

1. [17], 20m

   Climb directly up to gain a small ledge at the start of the prominent arête.

2. [19], 30m

   Head up to the piton then right and up the arête. The arête is made up of millions of little crystal formations. Continue directly up the arête to a ledge. From the ledge descend easy ground to the left to regain the abseil point.

About four metres to the right of Puppy Dog's Chimney, is an obvious line just to the left of an aretḗ below the prominent prow. Climb the line to exit three metres right of the stick nest. At the top there is a grown tree that makes the traverse to the right and mantle move difficult. So you can top out direct following the crack above the final roof.

Start left of the 18 on the main face.

1. [17] 20m

   Climb straight up to stance on a small ledge in front of a white face.

2. [19] ??m

   Crux pitch. Stay on the white face all the way parallel to the 18.

3. [18] ??m

   Join the 18 for the final part of the route

Perma draw at anchor

Squeezed between Free Radical and Rapunzel. Western Cape Rock incorrectly switched Free Radical and Forest Gump

1. 12B + C

2. 13B + C

1. 5 bolts

2. 9 bolts

3. 9 bolts

4. 11 bolts

Use 1x60m rope to abseil. If you use 2x60m ropes your knot will get stuck in a crack.

Permadraws at the top

Permadraws at the anchor.

Better if you don't go right around the bulge

Climb the crack to a stance at the top. To descend, scramble up and left to where decent becomes easy.

1. Runout

2. ??

A very straight line up the face, passing the large cream flake on it's right, then up right side of face. Tricky move over to gain ledge then straight to anchor.

1. [18] XXm

   ???

2. [19] XXm

   ???

1. [16] 15m

   ???

2. [18] 25m

   ???

3. [19] 20m

   ???

4. [16] 30m

   ???

The offwidth 6m left of Illearth Stone.