루트들 Cape Winelands에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

The offwidth 6m left of Illearth Stone.

Climb up the right side of the arête.

Follows the most prominent crack lines on the Paarl Rock dome. Start below a narrow crack that becomes off-width, 13m right of Turmoil of the Skin.

1. Climb the crack.

2. Continue up and stance below a layaway crack.

3. Climb the layaway and then through the bulge.

4. Exit right and scramble to the top.

1. 8 bolts. Climb the amazingly long and easy chimney and head left at the top after performing a tricky smearing move to get out of the chimney. Walk to the anchor about 8m to the left.

2. 5 bolts. Go around the corner and up on good holds to the anchor.

3. 6 bolts. Climb the lichenous wall that starts easy and becomes tricky smearing at the end.

4. 5 bolts. Go around the corner and up to a bolt. Smear up the vertical wall to the anchor.

5. 2 bolts. Smear the easy slab all the way to the top.

1. 10 bolts

2. 6 bolts

3. 7 bolts

4. 2 bolts

1. 9 bolts - Shares the first part with Via Barbara and then moves out right.

2. 8 bolts - Climb up right to join Via Daniela.

3. 7 bolts - Shared with Via Barbara.

4. 2 bolts - Shared with Via Barbara.

Start at the lowest point on the wall on the far left-hand side.

1. 12 bolts

2. 9 bolts

3. 9 bolts

4. 8 bolts

5. 10 bolts

6. 2 bolts

I strongly recommend climbing this route with two ropes or/and taking along slings to avoid the intense rope drag you will have in the first pitch if you don't do so. This route is less run out, more technical with longer pitches than "Hannes Rebirth". A fun route.

1. 50m, 10 bolts. Above some big blocks climb a crack that bends diagonally left keeping attention to go up before the anchors that is further in the same crack (these anchors belong to another route). Smear up and then diagonally left to the left of a short groove. Smear up and traverse right once above the groove to the anchors.

2. 9 bolts. Climb up and diagonally right following the bolts towards a long crack that opens up (coming from the ground) becoming a small ledge. Make your way to the face and smear up the black/dark green wall to another small ledge.

3. 5 bolts. Smear easy rock to a bigger ledge. One can bail here and avoid the 19 pitch by climbing an easy bolted (grade 11) traverse of the Garden Route to your right.

4. 11 bolts. Smear up the face just right of the box that contains a book to log your climb. Follow the bolts balancing your way up in a beautiful sequence of moves to the anchor.

5. 6 bolts. Follow easier rock to the top.

This route is less technical than "Josef's Birthday Party" but much more run out. If your goal is to test your psyco level, this is a good route. The first bolt is around 9 to 10 meters high, so you have been warned! Also Tony Laurens book says it has 4 bolts on the first pitch but it actually has only 3 plus the chains, making it more run out. The climb start on the top of some big boulders leaning against the wall.

1. 3 bolts

2. 4 bolts

3. 7 bolts

4. 8 bolts

5. 4 bolts with no chains. You will have to belay from one bolt, build an anchor from the beacon at the top or use the chains from "Josef's Birthday Party" at your left. Again this information is not in Tony's book.

Climb (solo) the slab / face about 30m to the left of Carlito's Route.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

Old bolts!

The first not so nice looking crack system. Chains at the top.

Climb the slab / crack.

Climb the crack.

"The two Jeremy's were in fact the first to climb the upper Sands of Time traverse dyke but instead accessed it via a large flaring crack coming in from the right" Start: Either climb the first pitch of Sands of Time, or scramble up into the Splitter Gully. The route begins below a large crack / groove moving up diagonally left.

1. No bolts. Climb the potted face to gain the diagonal crack / groove and follow it left to the 2nd stance of Sands of Time.

2. 4 Bolts. As for Sands of Time.

3. 7 Bolts. As for Sands of Time.

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.

Good route. The last pitch has only one bolt to abseil from. It would be great if a good soul could bolt an extra point for the anchor on the second pitch. Two abseils will bring you back to the ground but do not forget to tie knots because the first abseil is exactly 30 meters long.

1. 10 bolts. Climb up to the ledge / hole.

2. 4 bolts. Continue up RIGHT above the flake. Note: The second belay stance only has 1 bolt.

"A dirty, sharp, loose and grovelly crack" - Andy de Klerk

The opposite side of the flake starting from a ledge up to bolted chains.

1. [12]:

   Climb the obvious crack past a tree growing out of the crack up to the base of the second crag.

2. [19]:

   Climb the outside of the crack and then the obvious steep crack (instead of traversing right for the scramble).

Climb the short face (far left of crag), then easily up to base of overhanging block with vertical crack. Gain the crack with some effort and continue to ledge.

Climb the corner, then bust through the steep section to small ledge. Then find your way up the least loose section to the higher large ledge

Start 50m left of Lucifer, above some small trees at the top of the scree. The route utilizes the same initial buttress as Lucifer. Scramble up to a ledge on the front of the buttress and walk left to the end of the ledge.

1. Climb an overhanging crack to a stance with blocks on the left.

2. From the tree on the right, climb a thin crack to a bush. Move up leftwards into a recess. Follow this to a ledge.

3. Climb diagonally left for a rope length to a recess leading back right.

4. Follow the recess diagonally right before moving across back left to a stance on some large blocks.

5. From the top of the blocks climb a crack, passing an overhang on the left.

6. Move up and right, then back left past a ledge. Continue up to a large bushy ledge. Walk 50m right.

7. Climb up cracks to the top of a large block.

8. Start left from the block and up a crack. Move right into another crack and climb back right on hollow flakes on a corner to a block. Move left to the skyline and up to a stance.

9. Climb the crack and another on the right. Follow easier rock.

10. Descend for 3m and traverse right. Climb the face on the right to a ledge.

11. Climb the recess above on good blocks. Exit right onto easy rock. Continue up behind an enormous block to a ledge on the left

12. Take a low traverse left, move up to the skyline. Climb up for 10m to an obvious block on the left.

13. Traverse Left for 4m into a break diagonally right. Climb a small overhang and steep face for 6m. Traverse left on knobbles.

14. A traverse left from the stance eases left into a recess. Go diagonally right for 10m.

15. Start on the left and go straight up, then tend diagonally left to a stance.

16. Climb the recess above to a big ledge. Walk left for 100m to an easy break leading diagonally right to the top.

Scramble up ledges and two rock bands to the middle of the face and the highest easy grass ledge. Start in the middle where the ledge starts to fade.

1. Climb up the easiest line (avoid some loose flakes) to a large ledge below the roof.

2. Traverse right below the roof on a good rail to a small stance where the roof ends and the rock becomes white.

3. Climb through the roof at a jam crack. Continue up to a nose, and climb up steeply on the left of this easier rock. Continue over easy rock to a large ledge.

4. Continue up the dihedral just left of the roof above. Climb through the second roof and belay.

5. Traverse left on the obvious line on blocks, dropping down at one or two places. From the ledge climb to the apex of the blocks on the left.

6. Climb the face above on holes in the rock, up left into a steep break and thus to a rail. Traverse right and up to a stance.

7. Continue directly above on steep rock and then easier rock to a rotten ledge below the main overhangs on the face.

8. Move off the right-hand end and then up a hidden recess to a ledge on the left.

9. Move up and traverse left. Continue up and left to a steep section leading to a belay ledge.

10. Traverse left up the nose until the rope runs out (small stance).

11. Continue up scruffy rock to a good stance.

12. Climb up tending diagonally.

Start: on the left side of a prominent blocky fin of rock that sits near the base of the buttress.

1. Climb the face heading for the open-book formed by the left side of the jutting rock fin. Climb the open book to exit onto a small stance on top of the rock pillar/fin.

2. Follow a blind crack up and slightly leftwards to a small ledge. Continue straight up blocky ground on excellent rock, aiming up and left to a prominent, clean, open-book corner some 20m high. Continue up the open book and then out to a small stance about 5m above the open-book.

3. Above is a very prominent "Shark's Fin" under an overhang. Climb straight up to the obvious open-book formed by the recessed wall meeting the shark's fin on the left. Climb the open-book (#4.5 Camalot very useful here) and bypass the roof above by pulling up onto the shark's fin. Continue up, heading for a very prominent splitter-crack running through the headwall. Stance at the base of the crack.

4. Layback up the ramp at the start of the splitter till it steepens. Using aid, climb through the bulge following the crack. Continue (free) up the easier angled open-book corner and stance on a big ledge. Scramble across the ledge and straight up the prow ahead until able to move across a sloping slab to the right and up to a higher ledge. The next pitch starts up a flaky looking break on the right corner of the next prow.

5. Follow the flaky crack up the corner and slightly to the right. Continue up to just below a small roof. Stretch across and swing to the left onto easier ground. Above is another small overhang with a break on the right. Climb up under the overhang. Continue up the break and on up to a prominent chimney crack. Climb the chimney for a few metres and then break out left following a crack on the left wall to the top of the prow (this pitch is shared with Hold On Woman).

You are now on the final ridge. Scramble up the ridge for two rope lengths (+/-120m). At this point slopes on the right are easily accessed.

Descent: cross the slope for approximately 60m to a rappel point with tat.

1. 60m rapp. Scramble down to the next terrace. The next rappel point is on a leaning boulder.

2. 40m rapp to a grassy slope. Move left, facing Piccolo, until in the gully. Follow the gully, making short rapps where necessary. At the bottom of the gully, scramble up a subsidiary gully directly opposite.

3. 60m rapp from a rocky point at the top of the grassy gully (look out for tat). This rappel takes you down a steep and bushy gully, behind a large chockstone, and lands you very near the start of the route.

Nice climbing, but first gear pretty high.