등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | 등반가 | |||
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화요일 9번째 5월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King - 누구와 Huy Phan | 12m, 4 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Must try route in tonsai 👌
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6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - 누구와 Huy Phan | 15m, 6 | |||||
Nice 6a
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일요일 7번째 5월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
8a | ★★ Just Call Me Helmet | 23m, 8 | |||||
Finally figured out the second crux
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일요일 7번째 5월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King - 누구와 ximi | 12m, 4 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Undercut is crux for me
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토요일 6번째 5월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave | 10m, 5 | |||||
Gave it a go, but it was too dark already
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토요일 6번째 5월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
8a | ★★ Just Call Me Helmet — 2 attempts | 23m, 8 | |||||
Linked from the ground to the middle of the first crux, still don't understand how to do the second crux
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수요일 3번째 5월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b | ★★ Cowabungalow - 누구와 josh blakemore | 25m, 7 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Actually around 4-5 bolts are bit scary, but I forgot to notice that lol!
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6b | ★★ I No Speak England — 4 attempts - 누구와 josh blakemore | 25m, 11 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
the start section is quite bouldering, there are several sequences to pass. And then Enjoy the rest
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수요일 3번째 5월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
great view of Tonsai and Railay
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월요일 제 1 5월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7a+ 어려움 | ★★ Lal Bab — 3 attempts - 누구와 Feroz | 14m, 5 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Boulder on rope! Totally up my alley surprised to have bagged it on my 3rd attempt. also the last route of the season before I completely tore my MCL+ACL on a road accident
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일요일 30번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Love for Travelling | 13m, 8 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Best 7a+ in Tonsai. Start is a bit unwelcoming, did it using a crimp and dynamic move to the jug.
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일요일 30번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mai Mee Fahn | 15m, 5 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Great climbing, but I suggest pre-clipping first two quickdraws.
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토요일 29번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a+ ~6b | ★★ For Helga | 30m, 11 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Polished feet on some parts, confusing “jugs” on the crux. Felt that it was a more challenging version of the Groovetube.
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토요일 29번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman — 3 attempts - 누구와 Seregin | 10m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
I was climbing this route not in my shoes because I forgot mine on the mainland! Many thanks to Maria Anisimova for saving my climbing day! The route is amazing, very nice boulder problem!
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토요일 29번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
7a | ★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha | 15m, 5 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Awesome crux, 7a+ if you are short.
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6c | ★ No Name | 15m, 5 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Very nice one!
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목요일 27번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Monkey World | |||||||
6b | ★★ Shoulda Woulda Coulda - 누구와 josh | 82m, 38 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
cut in the rain but no shelter on the route. repelled down from 2nd anchor, overhang crux on 2nd pitch
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토요일 22번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Riesenbaby | 10m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Polished, but it only makes footwork more important. Really nice one. Classic!
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월요일 17번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
7b | ★★ The Tiger Queen — 2 attempts | 12m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Great crimpy testpiece! 2go.
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6c | ★★ Good Medicine | 23m, 7 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
10 bolts + anchor
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토요일 15번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Humanality | 110m, 45 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Very polished, probably overhyped, but still worth it.
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금요일 14번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7a | ★★ Babes in Thailand - 누구와 Sergey Khimich | 12m, 5 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Great holds, great moves, great route!
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6c | ★★ Hin Rong Hai | 22m, 7 | 평균 | ||||
Extremely polished, not the best moves. If you know where the holds are - ok for warmup.
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화요일 11번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Eagle Wall Lord of the Fives | |||||||
5b | Sharp Cove | 11m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
High Tide calls for a nice swim. RIP phone
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화요일 11번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b | ★★ I No Speak England | 25m, 11 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Hard start, but the rest of the route is great!
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7b | ★★ Café Andaman — 10 attempts - 누구와 Anton Malkov | 10m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Amazing short route! Sent as a project)
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월요일 10번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7c+ 쉬움 | ★★ Voodoo Doll - 누구와 Puntarika Tunyavanich | 15m, 7 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
only 1 crux then easier. next time will send for sure.
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7c+ | ★★★ Gaeng Som Pla — 2 attempts - 누구와 Puntarika Tunyavanich | 15m, 8 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
#7thGo overall. So much fun w/"feet first" classic, Didn't find the best beta at the last mono crux in very first go. So many Attempt but I'm so happy to climb every single move. CLASSIC! tick.
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일요일 9번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b ~6a | ★ For You & For Me - 누구와 Anton Malkov | 8m, 7 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Don't know why so many people hate this route. Up to me it's quite quirky and funny. The only disadvantage is that you are getting dirty while crawling.
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8a | ★★ Elephant — 3 attempts - 누구와 Puntarika Tunyavanich | 13m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
#4thGo overall, short but fun. Respect who send this w/ short arm span.
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8a | ★★ Elephant — 3 attempts - 누구와 Petch Viwatsinudom | 13m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Very Bouldery, so glad i can send it!
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7b | ★★ Café Andaman — 4 attempts - 누구와 Seregin | 10m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Finally did it with only 1 take on 4th go
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일요일 9번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c 어려움 | ★★ Jumping for Jugs — 2 attempts - 누구와 Seregin | 15m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
2nd go. Stiff
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일요일 9번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
The Nest & Wild Kingdom | |||||||
6a | ★ Caroline's Last Day P1 - 누구와 大坝 | 22m, 9 | 평균 | ||||
都是大点,上面是tube。上面快结束的地方休息树叶里有很大的红蚂蚁,虽然咬人不痛,但是有点吓人
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일요일 9번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b | ★ For You & For Me | 8m, 7 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Rock is dirty, but climbing is awesome!
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토요일 8번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave — 4 attempts | 10m, 5 | |||||
New high point this time
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6c+ | ★★ Stalagasaurus - 누구와 Anton Malkov | 13m, 7 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Pretty cool
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8a+ | ★★ Cream of Tom Yum Kai - 누구와 Puntarika Tunyavanich | 13m, 5 | 평균 | ||||
Use so much power to dynamic the slopy pocket in bulky sloper volume.
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토요일 8번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c | ★★ Good Medicine - 누구와 Maria Anisimova | 23m, 7 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Retroflash after 3 years
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토요일 8번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ No Have — 3 attempts - 누구와 Gawain Pek | 23m, 9 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Such a naughty naughty start - probs why this one doesn't get as much attention. But the top bit is fantastic! 7b+ (for me) is a cursed grade NO MORE WEW!
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7b+ | ★★ No Have — 6 attempts - 누구와 Nathaniel Soon | 23m, 9 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Campus/dyno start off bad holds to a ledge for hands. Then, you’ll have to smear and pull yourself up before gaining a series of solid holds that are rewards for your effort in getting off the ground. After this, you’re good to go!
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금요일 7번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Reminiscence | 28m, 8 | |||||
pretty small crimps at the crux
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6c | ★ No Name | 15m, 5 | 평균 | ||||
polished af
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금요일 7번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7c+ | ★★ Voodoo Doll - 누구와 Petch Viwatsinudom | 15m, 7 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Yeahhh!!
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목요일 6번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
The Nest & Wild Kingdom | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Little Fish P1 - 누구와 大坝 | 15m, 6 | 평균 | ||||
上面难点点太open抓不住,仰角掉下来就要重爬,几把就没力了,最后放弃上去
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6b | ★ Kitty Toe - 누구와 大坝 | 15m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
动作丰富,有水脊可以knee bar,分得比较累
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목요일 6번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow — 2 attempts - 누구와 大坝 | 20m, 8 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
第一把分了一次,觉得难点有两个地方,第二把尝试先锋,过了难点后在大洞休息,结果在后面没抓到好点入挂,之后太累掉下来了🥲
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목요일 6번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
The Nest & Wild Kingdom | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Little Fish P1 - 누구와 Irene020 | 15m, 6 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
大点大仰角,是自己的风格
Overhang with all big holds, my style for sure
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6b | ★ Kitty Toe - 누구와 Irene020 | 15m, 5 | |||||
坚定不移on了,钻洞休息
committed to onsight
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목요일 6번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7a 어려움 | ★★ Schwer und Steil — 2 attempts - 누구와 Irene020 | 15m, 6 | 평균 | ||||
太滑了抓不住,一个难点。
too slippery for the only one crux
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6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow - 누구와 Irene020 | 20m, 8 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
要点耐力的线。
pumpy route
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목요일 6번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ The Sit Spins - 누구와 Puntarika Tunyavanich | 20m, 8 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
good for warm up body & mental movement.
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7c+ |
★★ The Sit Spins (Extension) P1
— 2 attempts
- 누구와
Puntarika Tunyavanich
1
7c+
15m
| 15m, 11 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
#2ndgo only 1st pitch (7c
+) i love last tufa move like a 9c DNA's foot kick.
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7c+ |
★★ The Sit Spins (Extension) P1
— 2 attempts
- 누구와
Petch Viwatsinudom
1
7c+
15m
| 15m, 11 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
I climb only 1st pitch 7c+ and I send in 2ng go. (my highest point on 1st times is the last quick draw before the anchor)
I loves this quality movements, all good foot holds. I recommend everyone should try! |
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화요일 4번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Humanality - 누구와 大坝 | 110m, 45 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
爬了三段,风景非常好!很值得打卡!One of the "Tonsai must to do". View is really great, deserve to climb!
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6b+ | ★★★ Humanality - 누구와 Irene020 | 110m, 45 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Climbed the 6b+ on guidebook then repelled. 60 m
rope would be better.
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화요일 4번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias — 2 attempts - 누구와 大坝 | 16m, 7 | |||||
第一把以为是10c,尝试先锋,遇到难点不敢上去🥲就下来了,第二把跟攀也还是试了几次才过了难点。
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화요일 4번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Cat Wall | |||||||
6b | ★★ The Cat and the Cobra | 20m, 7 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
岩场上去有点难,下面要free solo几段简单线😂,然后横移,有点吓人,线路还可以/the cat wall is not easy to approach,need to free solo some pitch and traverse to the ledge.😂
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화요일 4번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube - 누구와 Irene020 | 25m, 11 | |||||
Climb in a huge tube. Skipped two quickdraws from the start.
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6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias — 2 attempts - 누구와 Irene020 | 16m, 7 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
1 crux, should onsight
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화요일 4번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7c | ★★ K1 — 5 attempts - 누구와 Gawain Pek | 20m, 6 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Perfect test of flexibility & power, classic for sure!
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화요일 4번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
7b | ★★ The Tiger Queen — 8 attempts - 누구와 Nathaniel Soon | 12m, 4 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Took way too many tries, but a fun route.
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일요일 2번째 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Cat Wall | |||||||
6b 쉬움 | ★★ The Cat and the Cobra - 누구와 Irene020 | 20m, 7 | |||||
这个岩场接近好玩
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토요일 제 1 4월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7c | ★★ Baby Gorilla — 2 attempts - 누구와 Maria Anisimova | 7m, 3 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Surprisingly, went super fast. 2go. Awesome moves.
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금요일 31번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Cobra Wall | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Cobra Head | 25m, 12 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
I think the trek out to this wall was more heart pounding than the climbing. Although the belay off the ledge feels sketchy af.
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금요일 31번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6b | ★ Schlingel Max | 15m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
It's definitely the warm up climb for beach climbing
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6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King | 12m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Holy whoppers. The undercling from the second to third bolt feels like pure luck if your feet stick.
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6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz | 15m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Huge step off the ground. Have seen a lot of people struggling with the start. But you know the long beta never fails.
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6b | ★ Schlingel Max | 15m, 6 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
My first intro to Ton Sai climbing... Slippery! And BIG moves.
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6c | ★ No Name | 15m, 5 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Felt easy because I could reach. Seems like that's the trend on this wall
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금요일 31번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b | ★ For You & For Me | 8m, 7 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Awesome climbing in a dirty roof with butt beta. The butt jam makes this climb something else. Also why is there 4 bolts right next to each other? Who knows!
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6b | ★★ I No Speak England | 25m, 11 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Went up with 10 draws. Had to down climb, grab 4 draws and climb back up. Wild ride. And the start is a real challenge if you're not tall enough.
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6b | ★★ Cowabungalow | 25m, 7 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Cool tufa climbing. Up the ladder, up the route. Seems weirdly runout for the final moves to the anchor though. Awkward sideways fall if you aren't careful
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6b | ★★ I No Speak England | 25m, 11 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Ran out of draws and had to downclimb to grab 4 draws to continue on. Whoops should have looked it up first.
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금요일 31번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Super interesting climbing, not difficult. Just.... Interesting.
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6b | ★★ Boobtube | 30m, 12 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Probably gets the grade for the crux - which really just required me to swap hands around. 6b feels generous.
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5 | ★★★ Easy Approach | ★★★ 클래식 | |||||
Ropes are for sure aid 😂
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금요일 31번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King | 12m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Climbed to the last hand hold just under the anchor and fall. Too tired to climb again.
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화요일 28번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Eagle Wall Lord of the Fives | |||||||
5c+ | ★ Balance Crack - 누구와 Félixe, Maxim | 15m, 5 | |||||
Sharp volcanic rock all the way up. Preferable not to fall …
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월요일 27번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Eagle Wall Lord of the Fives | |||||||
5a | ★ Easy Dude - 누구와 Félixe and Maxim | 12m, 4 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Great warmup and beginner route. Félixe and Maxim’s first sport route and Maxim’s first lead. Good shady location.
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토요일 25번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b | ★ For You & For Me - 누구와 小米老师 | 8m, 7 | |||||
这条线堪称全甲米接近性第一的简单线。到了通赛下船之后就可以爬了,看着是个屋檐,有点唬人,路书上写的是6a+,crag上写的是6b,其实我觉得只有6a吧~我摸了一把之后就红了,头脑清楚的话应该可以onsight的,还是对屋檐有点怵,得多练练悬垂。翻屋檐那里我觉得比阳朔竹帘洞查克诺里斯5.10a还要简单,后面有个大推髋,我觉得长人软人都是快乐的,小只一点的女生需要勇气。小米老师在推髋那里说要下来,我说你就算要下来也要把髋推过去,不然下落会有很大摆荡(这是真的)。她刚做完推髋的动作,我马上大喊'come on!!!过了!!!'然后旁边所有的人都在叫喊助威,甚至在二楼爬6b的老师掉下一只攀岩鞋来。然后小米老师果然把crux怼过去了进而flash了这条线。
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6b | ★★ I No Speak England | 25m, 11 | |||||
起步抱石难点(发现甲米有好多线是起步抱石难点),一些重心移动防开门防掉屁股,后面就比较简单,沿着钟乳找好抓好踩即可~后面的感觉是弱化版的honey hunter,在钟乳volume找对抗的本事我已经学到了一些了,下来的时候老外夸我爬的很放松,不管他们是不是夸夸群,反正我很受用~
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7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave — 3 attempts | 10m, 5 | |||||
Finally worked out all the moves, though the forth clip just kills the shoulder
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토요일 25번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c 어려움 | ★★ Jumping for Jugs — 2 attempts | 15m, 6 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Not an obvious crux at the beginning
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금요일 24번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - 누구와 阿黄老师 | 15m, 6 | |||||
有三个难点,我在最后一个那里花了很久。收这个顶的时候我热的像是着火了一样,跳进海水里冷却了一下才接着保护。这个6a是比较硬的。
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6b | ★ Schlingel Max - 누구와 阿黄老师 | 15m, 6 | |||||
难点集中在后半段。crux处有一个绝命crimp抠住之后简直动不了,试过挂脚,连出,出左手等等,都不行,最后朴实无华把左脚上高,就抢到了。事实证明6a以上的线路还都是要take一下的,就不躁进了。
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목요일 23번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Melting Wall | |||||||
6b | ★ Right Hand of Buddha - 누구와 marvin, Xixi | 15m, 5 | |||||
要赶飞机,没爬完赶紧下来了
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목요일 23번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - 누구와 Alberto Balmaceda | 15m, 6 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Setup top rope for chinese group.
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6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - 누구와 阿黄老师 | 15m, 6 | |||||
有三个小难点,都不难,分别在起步,翻台子和结束。正午晒死我了,保了俩人浑身着火一样,赶紧往水里跳,然后在阴凉处用了用清凉呼吸法才算行了。
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목요일 23번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Melting Wall | |||||||
6b | ★ Right Hand of Buddha - 누구와 Xixi | 15m, 5 | |||||
开始一段不难,不好就往右,后来到了大脚点之后我记得也很扛,但终归不太记得了。只记得天色渐黑,我清顶之后把所有能扛的东西扛上,西西老师默默理绳。开着头灯艰难下降到码头,多掏了钱才返回奥南。
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6b | ★ Captain Hook - 누구와 Xixi | 15m, 5 | |||||
挪了挪左边6a的顶,搞了这条,开始爬的比较松,各种大发力抢。后来多打磨了几次,动作逐渐成熟。后半截没有好脚点,吃肩背
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6a | ★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner P1 - 누구와 阿黄老师 | 13m, 5 | |||||
一路在烟囱里面爬,没有过于明显的crux。出烟囱的时候有个往右推髋的动作,稍吓人。下午几个同学要赶飞机,顶着快点挂上的压力给他们挂了这条,算是不辱使命。
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목요일 23번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube - 누구와 Alberto Balmaceda | 25m, 11 | ★★★ 완전 구식 | ||||
Repeat
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목요일 23번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6b | ★★ Son thoi - 누구와 阿黄老师 | 15m, 4 | |||||
难点集中在后半段。crux处有一个绝命crimp抠住之后简直动不了,试过挂脚,连出,出左手等等,都不行,最后朴实无华把左脚上高,就抢到了。事实证明6a以上的线路还都是要take一下的,就不躁进了。
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6c | ★★ Good Medicine — 2 attempts - 누구와 Alberto Balmaceda | 23m, 7 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
I got only a quarter of the way in lead. Then dogged the crux on TR
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6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz — 2 attempts - 누구와 Alberto Balmaceda | 15m, 6 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Pumpy, a bit polished. The crux has a reachy move, and quite hard to get the onsight.
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화요일 21번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a 쉬움 | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
简单又好玩,终点有个小平台可以坐着看风景,唯一的问题是这片岩场需要走一段泥路,天黑了下来就会变得有点麻烦
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월요일 20번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube - 누구와 拉风老师 | 25m, 11 | |||||
烟囱里面能很好的找到对抗,点也大。随便摸随便踩,怎么爬都有。跟重要的是确定保护的装备需要确保保护员是熟悉的,不然可能有危险。又想起保灯老师的时候犯的那个超级超级巨大巨大的错误。。。
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6a+ | ★★ For Helga - 누구와 Xixi | 30m, 11 | |||||
上午在kitchen wall一顿被吊打之后下午来到了fire wall,我觉得必须有所作为才行。翻看路书之后觉得有两条线路比较简单,在下面看了看之后确实简单,就直接去挂绳子了。很奇怪的是一直都在用左手的快挂,导致最后挂快挂的动作很别扭。全程没有太难的地点,但有平台不能冲坠,有的地方要点勇气。onsight的第一条10+。
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일요일 19번째 3월 2023 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil | 15m, 6 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
核心部は左手リーンから、右スローパー、左大外ぶどうサイド
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