Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Jeu 12 Déc 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Cobra Wall | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Snake Skin | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Nice 3d upper section
|
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Lun 10 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
| 100m, 45 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
gave Mascha the money pitch - up and down in just under 3hrs and missed the rain 😎
|
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Dim 9 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King — 2 essais | 12m, 4 | |||||
this is approaching crime is art levels of dogging
|
|||||||
Dim 9 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lars & Lars | 25m, 9 | |||||
lets fuckin GOOOOOOOO
funny how i climb 3 grades harder when its actually my style
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
fitness lap gone wrong lol
|
|||||||
Ven 7 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7b |
Genouillère
★★★ Pavel, Wish You Were Here P2
— 2 essais
- avec
Pat, Mike
2
7b
30m
| 30m, 35 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
What a route! Juggy pumpy festival! Just a hidden gem on Tonsai as it is one of the most beautiful lines around! Second go today after two years
|
|||||||
Ven 7 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Melting Wall | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner | 28m, 11 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
this is fuckin magnificent
i dont actually know if i did the right route but wowee it was so much fun. the pump just builds from the moment you step away from the tufas. really wish i had the endurance to send it honestly
|
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Jeu 6 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c | ★★ Jumping for Jugs | 15m, 6 | |||||
hahahahah wtf is this. cant even get the first hold from the ground, had to steal ol mates front door step to reach and then bailed at second clip anyway
|
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Jeu 6 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Stalagasaurus — 2 essais | 13m, 7 | |||||
knee pads and smothering tufas with my thighs for the send 🤟
|
|||||||
Mer 5 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
6b | ★ Tyrosine | Dans la moyenne | |||||
ah yes the good ol punt at the first bolt and then straight to the top. start of this thing is not the easiest
|
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6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
felt pretty good now that i know the moves
|
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Mer 5 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King — 3 essais | 12m, 4 | |||||
i am such a punter good lord
|
|||||||
Lun 3 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube - avec Kat Hayhoe | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Might be the coolest start of a climb I've done, going through the tube! Rest of the climb is so, so groovy too :')
|
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6b | ★★ Boobtube - avec Elly | 30m, 12 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Engaging the whole way up!
|
|||||||
6a+ | ★★ For Helga - avec Catalina | 30m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun swinging moves at the crux after the ledge! Another one for the top-ropers!
|
|||||||
6c+ | ★★ Fire Starter - avec Kat Hayhoe | 16m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
No falls were had, but... managed to dodge the crux by going left and traversing back with a massive runout - hi Kat :') - so this one technically doesn't count ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Fire Show (Variation) - avec Elly | 17m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Another one for the top-ropers!
|
|||||||
6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke - avec Elly | 17m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Smooth climbing! One for the top-ropers!
|
|||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | |||||
repeat
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias | 16m, 7 | ★ Bon | ||||
ok i think ive got the crux sorted on this now. just gotta link it
|
|||||||
6c+ | ★★ Fire Starter | 16m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
this is hard. took an absolute winger at the flat ledges pre crux too. had a good belay tho so thanks Abbie
|
|||||||
Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow | 20m, 8 | |||||
botched the crux up top
|
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Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6b | ★★ Son thoi | 15m, 4 | |||||
repeat
|
|||||||
Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ White Hot Hernias | 16m, 7 | ★ Bon | ||||
cruxy
|
|||||||
Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King — 3 essais | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Feel soo close to finishing this, powering out at dynamic move to jug just before anchor. Didn’t mind repeating the lower moves with fun heels and knee bars.
|
|||||||
Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Monkey World | |||||||
6b |
★★ The Beauty & the Beast
- avec
Kye Henson
1
6a+
30m
2
6a+
25m
3
6b
30m
| 85m, 28 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
It keeps getting better! Mindboggling-ly beautiful sequences, especially in the 3rd pitch!
|
|||||||
Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lars & Lars — 5 essais - avec Kye Henson, Richard | 25m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Burnt out on this one... last go went with a tiny crimp adjustment :')
|
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6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow - avec Kye Henson | 20m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Ridiculous vertical handlebar holds :')
|
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Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Monkey World | |||||||
6b | ★★ The Beauty & the Beast | 85m, 28 | |||||
Third pitch is fucking beautiful
|
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Sam 1 Juin 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King — 3 essais - avec Amanda | 12m, 4 | |||||
traverse is no longer an issue (thanks aid pads), but the top definitely still is 😭
|
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Ven 31 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King - avec Fridolin, Joonoh Lee | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Awesome flake! Pumpy, with a beautiful sequence at the top!
|
|||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - avec Fridolin, Joonoh Lee | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Slick mantle for a warmup, yikes!
|
|||||||
6b | ★ Schlingel Max - avec Fridolin | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun moves and faffing around!
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Son thoi - avec Fridolin | 15m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Cool route, slightly easier up the top going left!
|
|||||||
6c | ★ No Name - avec Fridolin | 15m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Pumpy! So very slick after rain...
|
|||||||
Jeu 30 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
The Nest & Wild Kingdom | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Overstay - avec Kye Henson | 27m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
The mosquitoes are vicious while belaying..
|
|||||||
7a | ★★ Freedom Safari - avec Kye Henson | 28m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Amazing, pumpy climbing! Solid holds and sweaty as!
|
|||||||
Jeu 30 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
- avec
Kye Henson
1
5
15
2
6b
10
3
6a+
20
4
6b
22
5
6b+
25
6
6b
10
| 100m, 45 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Froth was ON! Phenomenal climbing every step of the way, a giga classic 5th pitch stemming between the wall and a tufa, waves crashing on the beach, cliffs all around - what a setting!
|
|||||||
Mer 29 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
- avec
Amanda
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
haha oops my foot slipped on the tufa
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
theres no way that this isnt the crux pitch
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
| 100m, 45 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
classic for a reason. And lucky me got to lead Amanda up her first multi!
|
|||||||
6b+ |
★★★ Humanality
- avec
Kat Hayhoe
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
7
6a
10m
| 110m, 45 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
First multi pitch 🤩 and what an incredible one.
|
|||||||
Mer 29 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mai Mee Fahn | 15m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Good to ba back (:
|
|||||||
Mer 29 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b | ★★ Cowabungalow | 25m, 7 | |||||
oops i meant to start up humanality and went up this instead - soz Amanda
|
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Mar 28 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King | 12m, 4 | |||||
those feet tho. might come back with the aid pads for a send attempt
|
|||||||
Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Epic
|
|||||||
Sam 25 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | |||||
way easier than i thought it was gonna be but i think thats because the similar route i did at climbodia was way harder than i thought it was gonna be. Lived up to the hype tho, such a great flow
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Boobtube | 30m, 12 | |||||
really happy with how i did on this. fuck i love weird kneebars 💖
|
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Mar 14 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ No Have — 4 essais - avec Pat | 23m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Get back to the game!
Total 2 sessions on it.
Awkward start, nice crux sequence and sketchy finish |
|||||||
Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King - avec Alberto Balmaceda, sole | 12m, 4 | |||||
The slippery layback was a bit scary for me. It was quite committing to climb.
|
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Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | ★★ I No Speak England - avec Alberto Balmaceda, Sole | 25m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Super hard start, followed by stemming and tufa hugging.
|
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Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - avec Alberto Balmaceda | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Warm up
|
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7b |
★★★ Pavel, Wish You Were Here
1
7a
15m
2
7b
30m
| 45m, 35 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Awesome second pitch with perfect friction. One 80m rope is fine.
|
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Ven 3 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube | 25m, 11 | |||||
SO CREAMY groove on
|
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Ven 3 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Ton Sai Playboy — 5 essais - avec Baobao, Thy Nguyễn, Oldnnnn, TranHoa | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Mega roof, cool sequence
|
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Jeu 2 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Melting Wall | |||||||
6b | ★ Doing the Trad - avec Tim | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Now bolted. I bailed at the forth bolt. It was quite awkward at that point, maybe some off width technique needed.
|
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6a+ Difficile | ★★ Orange Peel — 2 essais - avec Tim | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lots of two finger pocket action, and some balance needed.
|
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6a ~5a | ★★ Grove of Vines - avec Tim | 20m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
This seemed to finish at an anchor after just 12m.
|
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Jeu 2 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - avec Alberto Balmaceda | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
One fall at the crux
|
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6b | ★ Schlingel Max - avec Alberto Balmaceda | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Polished at the crux.
|
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Mer 1 Mai 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King - avec Baobao | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Beautiful line ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
|
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Mar 23 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Eagle Wall Left Side | |||||||
5c+ ~6a | ★ Dead Spanish Bolts | 23m, 9 | Pourrie | ||||
Not worth the trouble
|
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Lun 22 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b | ★★ I No Speak England - avec Silvia Gong | 25m, 11 | |||||
Hugging stalactites
|
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Dim 21 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Cat Wall | |||||||
7a |
★★★ Peyote
1
6c+
25
2
6c
20
3
6c
22
4
6c+
20
5
7a
35
| 120m, 44 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Best multipitch in Tonsai
|
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Dim 21 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Riesenbaby - avec Silvia Gong | 10m, 4 | |||||
A boulder on rope. Fun start
|
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Dim 21 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King - avec Silvia Gong | 12m, 4 | |||||
The polish is no joke. Awesome
|
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Dim 21 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ On the Terrace | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Mega. Technical at the grade. A good amount of exposure.
|
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Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow - avec Silvia Gong | 20m, 8 | |||||
Was cooking. Dreamy jugs in the first half
|
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Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - avec Silvia Gong | 15m, 6 | |||||
No tex - awesome
|
|||||||
Mer 17 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube - avec Silvia Gong | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Rebirthed into a drippy wonderland
|
|||||||
Mar 16 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7a | ★★ The Wrath of Nantawan - avec Rainnie | 22m, 10 | |||||
Though it is 6c 😂 nice one through
|
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Mar 16 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Reminiscence - avec Rainnie | 28m, 8 | |||||
2 take
|
|||||||
6b+ | ★★ The Sit Spins - avec Rainnie | 20m, 8 | |||||
Repeat for warm up
|
|||||||
Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6b | ★★ Boobtube - avec sarah | 30m, 12 | |||||
中午好像喝了点儿chang,回过神儿的时候已经下午3点多了。这条难点翻屋檐不算尖锐,线路挺长,我爬完忘了看海了,可见心境一般。大j人沙拉老师有被昨天差点翻船的经历冲击到,主动进行时间管理,自己爬线爬的非常努力,磕碰挺多,令人动容。我们不到五点就跑路了,结果长尾船还是很难拼到人,还是掏了较高价到了王赛海鲜,又点了很多吃了很多。这一切都是命运石之门的选择,世界线收束于王赛海鲜。我在这个下午发现了catwall上的挂片,貌似catwall比firewall还更好接近一些,下次来试试。甲米真好啊。
|
|||||||
Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
6b | ★ Tyrosine - avec sarah | ||||||
这次来甲米定了亚航的机票,行李只让带7kg,我的绳和挂就14kg了,不让我上飞机,无奈我只好把绳寄回去了。我越想越气,下次我把绳编成锁子甲穿在身上值机,看他奈我何。来到甲米之后没有绳子,找到了小原姐和大爷乞讨,天天用大爷的绳子,怪不好意思的。schuling max 6b红线失败之后大爷在旁边叹了口气说,去爬那个6a吧,总得有线爬啊。比起投海一投了之,屈辱的活下去是更需要勇气的事情。我默默提着绳子去爬这个线了,这线出奇的好,手脚点特别明确干净,往往是发力到极限之后给一个好hold,我很中意。谢谢大爷的推荐和照顾。
|
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Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6b | ★ Schlingel Max - avec sarah | 15m, 6 | |||||
痛失红线/越爬越差/忘beta/甲米最大挫败/恩怨线/耻辱/王赛海鲜城/酒精与科学。犹记得去年我爬这个线手抠不住,指洞用不了,在巨大的恐惧下入绳都入反了,让保护员阿黄老师在太阳下面晒了40分钟,她虽然嘴上不说,心里必腹诽我。
仇线相见分外眼红,我挂线的时候行云流水,很纳闷上次那么难是为什么。crux我直接跳抓结果冲了一次,换了个beta秒成功。我顺利做顶下降休息,心想带挂都这么顺,再来一把简直稳如老狗。我把照相机架好准备迎接辉煌的红线。前面照例很顺利,结果还没到难点的时候,突然就动不了了,我在那里艰难的扭动,但是就是腾不出手挂挂,硬扛了一会儿之后耻辱take。沙拉老师在下面一头问号,我也一样一头问号。我摸了半天之后发现左手点不对,虽然看起来俩slope没有区别,但是事实上只有一个能对抗住,我第一次爬的顺纯属运气好。太阳晒过来,时间不够了,我清顶收挂下降,垂泪无语。 我心想我攀岩两载有余,默默地付出了这么多的努力居然仍然红不了10c,羞愤难当,当即决定投海自尽,当我解下易被海水腐蚀的龟龟准备投海的时候发现我在昨晚突然学会了自由泳。话说昨晚我们的长尾船不但掏了高价,而且船夫为了拉别的客,居然不送我们去奥南海岸,而是要送我们到一个王赛海鲜城的地方。事后证明这个海鲜城意外的不错,本地人超多,我们吃了一堆三文鱼和大螃蟹之类的东西,还点了一瓶威士忌,只花了200人民币左右。我喝掉了半瓶威士忌之后的记忆丢失了,回过神之后我已经跳进了游泳池里。本来我自由泳游几下之后就有点浑身发紧,但喝了酒之后感觉身体很柔软,在水里呆着非常自如,莫名其妙的学会了晃膀子的动作。我又想到我和xx和xx进行过的科学之争,对方声嘶力竭的说:这都是科学证明过的,有什么好争辩的?它们厉害,我说不过,但我心想所谓科学就是这么一种东西,人类喝酒喝了一千多年,科学最近几十年跳出来说喝酒有害健康,因为喝酒会让某种物质变多,某种物质变多又会导致癌症;但是过了几年,科学又会发现酒精的促炎指数为负,又发现酒精能降皮质醇,到时候又要变化。科学真累。总之我学会了晃膀子自由泳。 |
|||||||
Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
6b | ★ Tyrosine - avec marvin | ||||||
踩树就直接lowers the grade to 5.9吗🥹
|
|||||||
Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6b | ★★ Boobtube - avec marvin | 30m, 12 | |||||
汗流满面的长线 好玩
|
|||||||
Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Eagle Wall Left Side | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Can you fix it? | 18m, 7 | |||||
Hard crux
|
|||||||
Ven 5 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube - avec marvin | 25m, 11 | |||||
快乐线
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Ven 5 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - avec marvin | 15m, 6 | |||||
正午 被太阳追着爬 有种汗蒸房里攀岩的感觉
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Ven 5 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Fire Show - avec sarah | 17m, 8 | |||||
甲米好像有个传统艺能叫火焰表演,就是一群光膀子肌肉男在晚上拿个火棍在那转火棍的同时跳舞。火墙的起名又是火又是烟又是烟囱,应该是在突出这个事儿。我心想他们小时候肯定没有玩火尿炕这一说。话说那俩妹子一顿彩虹屁之后又告诉我这是个6b,我心想那我就顺手收了吧。结果这是个仰角屋檐,屋檐脚点又很高,cuan死我,能用的手点是一个好点的crimp,俩差的crimp。我在那吊狗活活吊到末班长尾船已经跑路了,期间一堆国际朋友不断的在spray beta:'i dont know but if you put your left foot...',现在我深信他们跟我一样都是菜鸡无疑,而且看热闹不嫌事儿大,恨不得拿着玉米片儿边磕边看。我最后好不容易翻上屋檐,直接把俩快挂扣到绳环上就下降跑路了。回去的长尾船只有我和沙拉老师俩人包船,付出了惨重的经济代价,而且风高浪急,船一直在左右晃,作欲翻状,沙拉老师左手crimp住船罩子,右手pinch船舷,一直在过度抓点,手都掐白了,可能是觉得她要交代到这了。我事后反思,还是不能轻信陌生岩友的话,宛如喝酒的时候不能相信主人对酒度数的评价一样。
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6a+ | ★★ Up in Smoke - avec sarah | 17m, 9 | |||||
火墙人巨多,我不愿排队了,本想去隔壁融化墙,但接近有点费劲,就撤回来了。正好有俩外国妹子在这条线上上不去了需要帮助,我当然要一展雄风。这个crux吃臂展,臂展短的人够是能够到,但就是吓人。我直接就够着了,爬完好像囫囵吞枣,完全没啥印象。老外就是会夸人,下来之后一顿you are my hero之类,舌灿莲花,厚脸皮如我也略微不好意思,我嘴上一顿谦虚心里乐开了花,果然人就不能飘,飘了之后下一条线就悲剧了。
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6a | ★★★ The Groove Tube - avec sarah | 25m, 11 | |||||
爬完两条线之后通赛海滩上就没人了,都屈服于正午的日晒。为了攀岩保持体型,没法吃太多,我们浅吃了一些薯片,椰子干,美式,木瓜鲜虾沙拉,泰式炒河粉。之后决定在海滩的阴凉岩洞那小睡一下午觉。睡觉需要地席,我去买地席准备掏钱的时候看了一眼表已经下午三点半了,末班长尾船是6点,看来睡不了一点儿了。我们来到西海岸的火墙开始爬,我挂完线下来的时候问:你说暴露感的反义词是啥?包围感?结果得到了一个意外的答案:私密性。好吧,这条烟囱线应该是我目前爬过的私密性最好的线了,左边右边前面后面全是墙,又是撑又是踹,两次爬下来beta绝不会一样。到顶了之后回头看海心旷神怡。
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Ven 5 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - avec sarah | 15m, 6 | |||||
两把红线/cuan死我了。这条线居然没有年度on简直让我不能接受,更不能接受的是我红了之后发现之前已经红过了。我去年觉得有三个难点,真的好难,在有树那个地方墨迹了很久。今年有俩难点已经不是难点了,加上和潘佬熟了之后近朱者赤,看见树就先踩一脚,谁知道那个树看似碗口般粗壮,实则宛如练过瑜伽,柔软无比根本踩不了,挂脚挂在树上可能可以,但我毕竟不是潘佬,干不出这种事来,遂take。我觉得甲米的线手脚点很近,又仰,cuan死我了。
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6c | ★ No Name - avec sarah | 15m, 5 | |||||
早在出发甲米之前,雄心壮志的我就在crag上疯狂标记线路,力图on一些11,如果能红一些12就更好了,13虽然爬不了,但有一众好手在,我摸摸还不让摸吗?我逐渐陷入癫狂,如同我妈进入菜市场,碰到什么玩意儿都想买点儿。这条景色好,那条大点大仰角,那条居然是石灰岩少有的slab,都想爬,少哪条都不行。我在做这些事的时候沙拉老师也不说话,只是忧心忡忡的看着我,后来我觉得这种表情应该是希望我尽快迷途知返,但又不好意思直接说。再后来我看到这个表情就会问她whatsup,以至于有时候本来没事我在那问来问去,像有病一样。
飞机落地了之后我突然醒悟,想起来要看看岩场的接近日晒以及蚊子情况了,遂草草选了几个能去的地儿,把90%的线排除了。之前的宏大计划俩人也很默契的不再提起。 第一个攀爬日我们很合理的睡到了10点多才出门,坐船来到通赛的时候已经12点左右了。这时6a6b上已经挂上了绳,一问又都不给爬。我心想我就拿这个6c热身了,区区11b,我基本上也就两三把的事儿。我经历了一个抱石难点之后挂了第一把挂,点是挺大的,但为了抓jug我把自己憋在了屋檐下面,头一直在创屋檐,一进二的时候又不得要领,掉的时候又总是踹到保护员,过于费保护员。搞了三四次之后无奈下降,心中充满了不服。我后来反思,岩馆的线路很少给那种看上去很好,但是会把人姿态带偏的误导性jug,但野攀就有很多这种点,如果我是定线员,一定定出一些误导线,要是中了我的套路就只能乖乖下来重新爬。 |
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Jeu 4 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Humanality - avec 小天 | 110m, 45 | |||||
线路有趣,第四段顶的平台很大,可以休息,下一段就是吓人的钟乳对抗,只能上午爬,十二点前一定要下降,这里的太阳会把人晒中暑的。
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Mer 3 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Fire Show - avec 小天 | 17m, 8 | |||||
起步抱石难点,上面就还好了
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6c+ | ★★ Fire Starter - avec 小天 | 16m, 7 | |||||
前面仰角钟乳需要爬聪明点,要不到难点前就已经胳膊胀了
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7a+ | ★★★ Burnt Offerings — 2 essais - avec 小天 | 15m, 8 | |||||
有趣的线路,风景非常棒,身后就是大海,从第五把挂翻出去那步挺吓人,要相信自己能拍到右手的碗口
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Mar 2 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b | ★★ I No Speak England — 2 essais - avec Tan_yongwei | 25m, 11 | ★ Bon | ||||
One of the first routes on the wall to get shaded in the late afternoon. Enjoyed this.
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Lun 1 Avr 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7c+ | Avec équipement ★★ Voodoo Doll — 2 essais - avec xuan | 15m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sehr schöne rute mit interessanter crux. Hat sehr viel spaß gemacht zu klettern. Nach der crux schöne wandkletterei
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Dim 31 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c | ★★ Good Medicine - avec Kenneth Lau | 23m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Tip: (stop reading if you dont need any beta srpay)
I tired the route just to help my friend to clean the draws hahas After the right pinch, there's is an pocket on the leave for your right hand to hold to make a bigger move to the left Jug on top. |
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave - avec Kenneth Lau | 10m, 5 | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
1 Jug is broken. Trying to stick my leg in and complete it without taking any big swings
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7c | ★★ K1 | 20m, 6 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Fever send) awesome route!
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz - avec Tan_yongwei | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
The rock is more polished than the last time I attempted it. Nice crux.
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Ven 29 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ On the Terrace | 20m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Suggest to stick clip the the first bolt and 2nd. Because the moves to the right is really hard to notice. Have "fun" exploring the top part.
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6b+ | ★★ On the Terrace - avec Tan_yongwei | 20m, 11 | |||||
Enjoyable, slightly intimidating. Sharp rock at the start.
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Mer 27 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Lal Bab - avec Sofia Rennerståhl, Tobias Hamer | 14m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Loved it. Took me multiple tries over 3 days. Sent on the morning before returning home. Amazing feeling.
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Mar 26 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Fire Wall | |||||||
6b | ★★ Boobtube - avec 小原姐 | 30m, 12 | |||||
仰角尝试4次 上不去放弃
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Mar 26 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Tyrolean Wall | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lars & Lars - avec 小原姐 | 25m, 9 | |||||
甲米第一条 被太阳追着屁股爬了一半
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Dim 24 Mars 2024 - Ton Sai | |||||||
Dum's Kitchen | |||||||
6c ~6c+ | ★★ Good Medicine | 23m, 7 | |||||
Cruxy
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