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접속점
Main Wall

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

5.11d Maniacal Depression

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In particular

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5.11d Galeface

Widely spaced bolts (drilled by hand on lead) protect hard face moves. Follow right arching overlap protected by badly rusted, badly placed pins.

5.6 Standard Route
  1. Start at van sized boulder to left of Galeface & Maniacal Depression. Climb easy broken left angling ramp. Clip a pin, step down, traverse right for 4 feet, then continue up to a large tree ledge. Build anchor at the far right end of the ledge.

  2. Second pitch (30') follows a wide chimney with ample #1-#3 placements. Step right at the end of the chimney, supplementing 2 in situ pins with 1 or 2 pieces for the belay anchor.

There are two options to rappel:

  • Walk right along really wide ledge to 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. Rappel can be done in 1 rap with a 70m rope, or in 2 (using anchor for 1st pitch of Maniacal Depression).

  • Scramble left to the chains for 'Story of O'.

5.10a Fear Of Flying

Route does not have an easy rappel descent. Either rap off a tree (being careful that the rope doesn't get stuck when you try to retrieve it) or climb the last pitch of Standard or Story of O.

5.6 The Story Of O
  1. Go up a dirty gully to better climbing. Build an anchor on the slabby ledge just above the chimney.

  2. Climb the slabby dihedral. Build a natural anchor and belay at the ledge above.

  3. Climb the vertical crack. Tend left at the top and belay at the chains/abseil anchor.

Two straightforward rappels to the ground. A 60m rope will suffice.

5.10d Dynamo Hum

From 1st pitch belay for Story of O, climb upside-down J shaped flaring crack (to right of belay). Finishes on same ledge as Fear of Flying, Standard Route, etc. Same descent info as for Fear of Flying.

5.7 Gunklandia

1st pitch climbs thin fingers to wide hands. Ends at large ledge with dead looking tree at same level as anchor for Old Town. 2nd pitch climbs awkwardly sized chimney to finger/hand sized crack to ledge. Belay from here, then traverse up & left to anchor for Return to Forever for descent. Make 2 raps to ground.

5.9 Birch Ade

From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb straight up, aiming for 15' tall right facing corner with hand crack (crux). Climb big undercling flake to large wedged block at start of short left facing corner. Climb carefully past this block (it shifts on occasion), to belay ledge. Make 2 raps to ground.

5.10b Emigrant Crack

From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb up and right to finger sized crack that splits the vertical wall to the right of the 2nd pitch of Gunklandia. Belay from ledge, follow descent directions for Gunklandia.

5.7 Old Town

2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

5.10a Michael's Pin

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

5.9 Return To Forever

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In particular

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5.8 London Bridges

off-width corner

5.10b Fingers In A Sea Scape

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.11b Connecticut Cracks

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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5.11c Selfless Bastard

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.10a Chitlin' Corner

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

5.9 Green Mountain Breakdown

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.11c Jaws

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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5.10d Pressure Drop

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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5.10a Sea Gypsy

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In particular

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5.11b Road to Nowhere

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In particular

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5.4 Precipice Ledges

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In particular

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5.7 Midnight Delight

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In particular

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5.10d Pecos Sandwiches

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In particular

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5.10d Mancheppi Soup

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In particular

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5.7 Boys From Bangor

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In particular

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5.10a The Reach

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In particular

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5.8 Schooner

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In particular

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5.10c Adrift

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In particular

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5.10b Smooth Sailing

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In particular

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5.10d Blackbeard's Arete

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In particular

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5.6 Dike Gully

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In particular

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5.8 Fat Back Crack

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In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.11a Gypsy Arete

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In particular

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5.8 Southern Fried Chute

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In particular

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5.11b Rusticator

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In particular

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5.11a High Plains Drifter

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In particular

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5.10a Exit Laughing

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In particular

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5.10b The Wet Lithuanian

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In particular

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5.10c Roomful of Blues

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In particular

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5.9 Connecticut Arete

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In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.11a Chopped Face

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5.11c Work'n on My Tan

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In particular

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5.11d Swept Away

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In particular

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5.9 Wagger

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In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

5.6 Grendal

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.9 Gunklandia Direct

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

5.10d Scaramouche

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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5.11d Scaramouche Arete

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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5.11c Games Without Frontiers

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In particular

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5.11d Popeye's Arete

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In particular

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5.10 Morning Thunder

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

5.10 Byzantine

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In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.11a Impalpable Cracks

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In particular

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5.7 Country Corner

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In particular

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5.11c Eclipse

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In particular

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5.10a Tempest

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In particular

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5.10d Toxic Shock Syndrome

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.8 Dr. Styx's Flying Buttress

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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5.7 Vacation Cracks

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In particular

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5.10a Scrimshaw

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.10b Shark Tank

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.10a Rainbow Warrior

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

5.9 Conan

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.10c Offshore Crack

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

  • check if a permit is required

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5.10c Crosswind

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

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  • check for falcon closures

5.11a Pirates of Penzance

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In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

5.11b Crossbones

This is a national park. Check the regulations before climbing

In particular

  • check if a permit is required

  • check for falcon closures

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