루트들 Main Wall에서

Widely spaced bolts (drilled by hand on lead) protect hard face moves. Follow right arching overlap protected by badly rusted, badly placed pins.

1. Start at van sized boulder to left of Galeface & Maniacal Depression. Climb easy broken left angling ramp. Clip a pin, step down, traverse right for 4 feet, then continue up to a large tree ledge. Build anchor at the far right end of the ledge.

2. Second pitch (30') follows a wide chimney with ample #1-#3 placements. Step right at the end of the chimney, supplementing 2 in situ pins with 1 or 2 pieces for the belay anchor.

There are two options to rappel:

• Walk right along really wide ledge to 2 bolt anchor with rap rings. Rappel can be done in 1 rap with a 70m rope, or in 2 (using anchor for 1st pitch of Maniacal Depression).

• Scramble left to the chains for 'Story of O'.

Route does not have an easy rappel descent. Either rap off a tree (being careful that the rope doesn't get stuck when you try to retrieve it) or climb the last pitch of Standard or Story of O.

1. Go up a dirty gully to better climbing. Build an anchor on the slabby ledge just above the chimney.

2. Climb the slabby dihedral. Build a natural anchor and belay at the ledge above.

3. Climb the vertical crack. Tend left at the top and belay at the chains/abseil anchor.

Two straightforward rappels to the ground. A 60m rope will suffice.

From 1st pitch belay for Story of O, climb upside-down J shaped flaring crack (to right of belay). Finishes on same ledge as Fear of Flying, Standard Route, etc. Same descent info as for Fear of Flying.

1st pitch climbs thin fingers to wide hands. Ends at large ledge with dead looking tree at same level as anchor for Old Town. 2nd pitch climbs awkwardly sized chimney to finger/hand sized crack to ledge. Belay from here, then traverse up & left to anchor for Return to Forever for descent. Make 2 raps to ground.

From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb straight up, aiming for 15' tall right facing corner with hand crack (crux). Climb big undercling flake to large wedged block at start of short left facing corner. Climb carefully past this block (it shifts on occasion), to belay ledge. Make 2 raps to ground.

From 1st pitch belay for Gunklandia, climb up and right to finger sized crack that splits the vertical wall to the right of the 2nd pitch of Gunklandia. Belay from ledge, follow descent directions for Gunklandia.

2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

off-width corner