등정들 Fort Collins에서

Red point! #2ndGo. Had no expectation of doing this second go. Alex was much more confident. So glad I proved her right. First time I have sent a 5.12b in a session, let alone 2nd go. There was a “7b” in Spain last year, but that was very soft. This felt on grade. Psyched!

Putting the gear up on this monster face climb. Really nice position on a huge face towering over the canyon. Technical thin climbing for 3-4 bolts in the middle. Eases off on some fun moves for the last 5 bolts.

Repeat. Yeah it has two cruxes and they are both droppable, but if you do them it feels easy.

Putting the gear on for Alex. Maybe a little harder than I gave it credit for yesterday as I fell on both cruxes trying to warm up on it today.

Alex got me all the beta Fun moves but probably on the soft end of the grade.

Warm up. Nice crimps for the first 3 bolts.

This would be a hard onsight. The crux at the last bolt is tricky and it is hard to put the draw in first so the head game also comes into play with a ledge below.

8 bolts, chain anchors

8 bolts, chain anchors

8 bolts, fixed carabiners at chain anchors

watch the climber at the 2nd clip. its all there, but as a new ish route it can be hard to find the "good" holds. Tots do it, its a fun climb up to a fun problem just before the chains. again the good holds are there and you always have good feet, remember where they are and you will send.

i went right at the roof. probably should have gone left into the aframe and up... next time i'll try that way

i did it on tr... not too sure about my sequence... LH undercling on roof, RH cross up and over to a pretty good crimp, relax tension, LH to a small sidepull crimp, LF on something?, RF up to apex and stand up? looks like there is good ear gaston hold further left but i didnt use it... will find out on me lead attempt.

Slightly spooky Onsight.

consistent fun climbing

Nice stemming climb, but super run out!

Super nice slab with unique movement, including high heel cranking and triceps mantling on slopey shelves. Kinda run out, but definitely a worthy slab!

Thought I was on the 5.8 warmup. Told Ben this seemed like a stiff 5.8. Turns out I was right!

What. A. Route. Best 12a I've done in a looong time, and certainly the best I've gotten on in Colorado. Morning was a bit too chilly and got flash pumped on this. Sun came up, warmed the holds, and life was better! 2nd shot send. Pumpy jug haul on steep terrain with permadraws. Loved this wall!

https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV148411V7nx/

Tricky and powerful crux