Prophesy Wall 암벽등반 44 루트들 에서의 암장

A more beefed up version of Non-Technical Church Socks, Technical Knee-highs climbs a long line of bolts through a roof and finishes heavy on a dicey bulge. This route can be done as a short easy single pitch or one long, more difficult double line.

Past Lives is located on the right third of Prophecy Wall, directly right of a black water streak. From the main trail head south at a large sandy area up the wash to a series of ramps. Scramble up the ramps to the base of the north facing pillar that is separated from the main wall.

Pitch 1 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Start at the base of the pillar and climb up and trend slightly left. Belay ledge midway up the pillar on two rappel bolts.

Pitch 2 - (5.9, 80 feet, 9 bolts) Continue up pillar past tricky crux with small holds to the top of the pillar. Belay bolts are just below the lip of the pillar.

Pitch 3 - (5.7, 25 feet - 3 bolts) Step off top of the pillar to main wall and climb to the top of main wall.

Descent - 3 rappels down route with a 60 meter rope. The first rappel is fairly straight forward to the top of the pillar. The second rappel drops you straight down the wide chasm between the pillar and the main wall, however. For the last 30 feet you're hanging free of the rock. You'll end up left of the belay ledge and need to push off the main wall with the left leg and make a small leap to the right to get to the last rappel station. Third rappel is basic.

This climb shares the first four bolts with Harbingers and Caging the Zealot, climbing the wall between these two routes. Route trends left on the main wall after the fourth bolt.

Located on the right third of Prophecy Wall, Caging the Zealot is about 50 feet left The Visionaries. Caging the Zealot shares the start with Harbinger and Conditional Bliss and is the right most of those three routes. Routes diverge at a small ledge after the 4th bolt.

Pitch 1 - (5.10b, 140 feet, 15 bolts) Climb up the low angle ramp past 4 bolts to a small ledge. Continue up varnished holds climbing past the mid route rappel anchors to a great belay ledge (if you're belaying at the first set of anchors it's going to be a hanging belay).

Pitch 2 - (5.8, 40 feet 4 bolts) Continue up easier climbing to the top of the wall.

Descent - Rappel the route with 2 rappels. First rappel goes all the way down to hanging mid route rappel anchors.

Located 20 feet right of the start of Caging the Zealot., Harsh Reality starts on a lower angle ramp that steepens as it gets closer to the crux on the first pitch. Varnished holds, great exposure, and a long first pitch mark this typical Prophecy Wall route.

Pitch 1 - (5.9, 130 feet, 12 bolts) - Climb up and right on varnished holds that leads to the large crack system that start midway up the first pitch. Climb past mid route rappel anchors. Crux is the small roof at the 9th bolt. Continue climbing up lower angled climbing past 3 more bolts to a spacious ledge for the belay.

Pitch 2 - (5.9, 50 feet, 5 bolts) - Continue up the wall and to the right. Climb ends before the top of the wall.

Descent - Rap the route with two rappels. Mid route rappel anchors

This route is the 2nd route from the right side of the cliff. It is about 75ft to the left of Sticky Revelations. This is another great outing on good varnish edges. The first pitch is 145ft long with 12 bolts (5.9+). A mid way station is in place for a short pitch and for rapping. The 2nd pitch follows a short crack to more varnished edges. (5.10c)

Rap the route with one rope.

This route is located on the far right side of Prophesy Wall. The first two pitch are 75ft long and are on good varnished edges (5.7, 5.8). There is a 2nd pitch variation that is to the left, which is a hand crack (trad gear) and quite fun. The final short pitch goes through a small bulge on edges to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a).

There is also a 3rd pitch variation at 5.3 to make this a 5.8 climb, it angles to the left to another set of anchors. Rap 3 times with a single rope to get down.