등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Slabs | |||||
5.5 II | ★★ Beginner's Route
A good rewarding, though not sustained route up the slabs. There are but a few moves of 5.5, and only a few sections of 5.4 climbing -- most of the climbing is 5.3 and easier. But, often with long run-outs at the easier grades, requiring confident leading at that grade. The "Standard Route" is a better-protected choice. Start below a large isolated pine tree about 35m up near the right side of the slabs.
The last three pitches are usually climbed un-roped as a scramble. | 340m, 10 | |||
5.9 | The Ninth Wave | ||||
5.8 | South Buttress of Wankers Wall | ||||
5.7 X | ★★ Slabs Direct
1
5.7 X
2
5.5
3
5.4
4
5.7
0: Get to the starting anchor somehow.
Finish up 'Standard Route' FA: Paul Ross, Ben Wintringham & Marion Wintringham, 1973 | 170m, 4 | |||
5.7 I | ★★ Standard Direct Finish
From the right end of the lunch ledge, climb up the left-facing dihedral to a piton, then step right below a bolt. After clipping make some delicate moves (crux) rightwards and up to the the ramp, then continue leftwards up the ramp and layback corner to tree belay above. | 24m | |||
5.3 I | ★ The Quartz Pocket
Variant of the "Standard Route", replacing pitches 2-4 with a shorter, more direct, 2 pitches of climbing. | 84m, 2 | |||
5.5 II R | ★★ Standard Route
This climbs the obvious right-facing arch up the cliff, then up through (crux) overlaps and finishing on the upper slabs. From near the center base of the slabs: Pitch 0: 45m (5.0?) Scramble 150ft up an easy depression to the starting ledge.
Walk off to the (climber's) right. | 350m, 9 | |||
5.9 | ★ The Last Wave | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Wavelength | ||||
5.10b | ★ Tidal Wave
FA: Alain Comeau & Kim Smith | ||||
5.7 II | ★★ Sliding Board | 320m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Interloper | ||||
5.7 II | ★ Wedge
To the left of the "launch pad" ledge where several climbs start are two patches of trees. This climb starts below the left most of the pair.
Fine climbing up to the end of pitch 6. Pitch 7 is dirty, but of some interest. The rest is crap. | 10 | |||
5.6 | ★ Wedge Alternative Start | ||||
5.9 | ★★ The Booklet | ||||
5.7 II | ★★ Sea Of Holes | ||||
5.6 II | ★★ The Stadtmuller-Griffen Route | ||||
5.7 | Pathfinder | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Black Jade | ||||
5.6 | ★ Dike Route
Near the left side of the slabs are a pair of slowly converging dikes running up the slab. This routes starts up the right-most of the dikes. Pitch 0: friction the slab to the large sloping ledge. (Most climbers rope up on this ledge.) Guide says to belay from pin at right side of ledge, but pin did not seem to be present as of August/2012.
A rappel descent can be made from the end of pitch 4 on a single 70m rope. (Barely, 5 rappels, using the "Pathfinder" pitch 1 anchors.) A rappel descent can be made from the end of pitch 5 with double-rope rappels (2 50m ropes). | 8 | |||
5.8 | ★ Dark Horse | ||||
5.9 | ★ Waiting for Comeau | ||||
5.6 | Mistaken Identity | ||||
Echo Roof Area | |||||
5.9 | ★★ Short Order | ||||
5.9 | Avenger | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Future Shock | ||||
5.11b | Webster's Workout | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Seventh Seal | ||||
5.10d | ★★★ Ethereal Crack | ||||
5.11d | Up Rope | ||||
5.10d | Frog Hairs | ||||
5.9 | ★ Persona | ||||
5.5 | ★ Beelzebub Corner | ||||
5.10a | ★★★ Loose Lips | ||||
5.11d | ★★★ Last Tango | ||||
5.8 | Man's Best Friend | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Sleeping Beauty | ||||
5.11c | Wizard of Oz | ||||
Children's Crusade Wall | |||||
5.10c II | ★★★ Children's Crusade | ||||
5.11a III | ★★★ Children's Crusade Direct | ||||
5.10d | Sidewinder | ||||
5.11c | The Eliminate | ||||
5.10d | ★ Eliminate Direct | ||||
5.11b | Total Recall | ||||
5.4 | ★ Beginner's Blessing | ||||
5.12b | Twelve A | ||||
The Wonder Wall | |||||
5.10c III | ★★★ The Last Unicorn
FA: Ed Webster & Jeff Pheasant, 1978 | ||||
5.11a III | ★★ Science Friction Wall | ||||
5.12c | Science Friction Wall Direct Finish | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Sky Streak | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Lady Slipper | ||||
5.10a III | ★★★ Lost Souls | ||||
5.10a | Hallowed Eve | ||||
5.11a | Head Cement | ||||
5.12b | London Calling | ||||
5.11b | South Buttress Direct | ||||
5.12a | Wonder Wall | ||||
Inferno/Atlantis Area | |||||
5.8 | ★★★ Inferno | ||||
5.10a | Atlantis | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Hotter Than Hell | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Tranquility | ||||
5.11c | Bullet The Blue Sky | ||||
Diamond Boulder | |||||
V3 | Blue Diamond | 3m | |||
Refrigerator Boulder | |||||
V3 | Cool Pop | 3m | |||
Flood Boulder | |||||
V3 | Flash Flood | 3m | |||
V5 Boulder | |||||
V3 | Arrowhead | 3m | |||
V4 | Renegade | ||||
V4 | Blowtorch | ||||
V5 | Firing Pin | 3m | |||
Money Boulder | |||||
V3 | Silver Dollar | 3m | |||
Alcove Boulder | |||||
V4 | Shot Caller | 3m | |||
Silent Boulder | |||||
V5 | The Silent Corner | 5m | |||
South Buttress Wonder Wall | |||||
5.10c R | Wonders Never Cease | 76m, 2 | |||
5.9 | Rain Dance | 46m, 2 | |||
5.12 R | Wonder Wall | 140m, 6 | |||
5.9 | Ladyslipper | 38m, 2 | |||
5.12b/c | Science Friction Direct | ||||
5.11a | Science Friction Wall | 30m | |||
5.10b PG13 | Sky Streak | 37m | |||
5.10b | The Last Unicorn | 91m, 3 | |||
5.9 | Waiting For Webster | 12m | |||
5.10- | Three Saints | 27m | |||
5.10c | Arno's Corrner | 24m | |||
5.4 | Route To Root | 12m | |||
South Buttress Atlantis Area | |||||
5.9 | The New Wave Traverse | 680m, 23 | |||
5.10c | Jacobs Ladder | 120m, 4 | |||
5.9 | Cold Day In Hell | 46m | |||
5.10c PG13 | Surreal | 3 | |||
5.11b PG13 | Unforgettable Fire | 76m, 2 | |||
5.9 | Hotter Than Hell | 2 | |||
5.11a | Burning Down The House | 91m, 3 | |||
5.7 R | Underground | 12m | |||
5.10b | Tranquility | 61m, 2 | |||
5.12a/b PG13 | Indian Summer | 30m | |||
5.12a | Workshop Orgy | 23m | |||
5.10b | Atlantis | 120m, 4 | |||
5.10d | In Your Face | 2 | |||
5.8 | Inferno | 120m, 4 | |||
5.5 | Brimstone | 12m | |||
5.7 | Crosswalk |