등정들 World에서 Jason Nguyen에 의한

Quite harmful.

Eventually got all the moves by the third working lap.

Warm up, and a nice winger of a warm up fall at the top too!

Draws on and figuring out the moves on the first lap.

Sent on second go / first red point attempt, wasn’t expecting it but the moves weren’t too hard?

First go today, I tried it 7 years ago; did say I’ll eventually head back to send it!

Easy start, tricky middle, must’ve read it a bit wrong because I was mega stretched out!

Alzheimers onsight, a good warm up!

What a cool wall!! Hardest thing was putting on the third and fourth draw as a shorty. Took at the 4th bolt on the onsight lap.

Smooth send on the second lap, but with a healthy pump still! Super cool.

Hard move then all over after second bolt.

Mantles

Probably a bit hard at 19? Had an interesting/cool sequence in the middle.

Super awesome feature and climbing; nice exposure near the top and a good length. Only let down is the rock quality.

Didn’t think it was all over after the second bolt? A few mantles and a reachy finish.

Kachow! Really pleasant and felt more straightforward than the 17 next to it.

One arete move, maybe also a bit awkward for 17??

Would be a good beginner lead with the plethora of bolts, maybe a touch awkward at the grade?

Repeat to clean, find me a better 16 in the mountains? Long with a lot of climbing for the grade.

Really nice line and very cool crux move!! Thoroughly enjoyable.

Would require some really creative wire placements and it would be spooky as!

A few nice holds on this one

Just one hard-ish section to start, then a cruise

Cleaning draws, unsent when I forgot all about my feet.

Didn’t remember anything from my send last time, but after actually falling and looking at the sequence, I should be able to remember beta for future reference!

Repeat, cleaning Still clipped that last draw at my hip…

Repeat

Repeat, setting up

Repeat, setting up

Definitely easy at 25 (with the bolt pull), but did it free with the dyno so taking 26 for it, as per 2019 guidebook. First few draws were on from doing WWS.

Decided to give the all-free version a go, my god that was SO fun!! Big cut loose swing and big smiles!

Really good fun, a bit cold on all those jugs with the crux right at the top.

Does anyone know how the FA did these routes? Dyno or bolt pull?

Onsight didn’t go very well, a lot of useless chalk around. One fall at crux with a bad sequence. Sorted the sequence second go then jugs to the top, but not a drop of chalk along the way, had to brush quite a bit of spider webs off.

I sent pretty comfortably second go. Much nicer with beta and draws on. No knee bar, oh, but I can get 4 fingers in the first pocket (with a squeeze)

Hop on now, the top is chalked! It’s not a sandbag!

Less cruxy than Thai Virus, a touch more sustained, pretty good!

Minging on that right crimp is not my idea of a warm up, didn’t use the side pull. Linked into Stereo.

Wouldn’t pull on it again, but it’s good that it gives you another way to start these routes.

Nope, could hold the crimp with the high heel but couldn’t generate any power to go out left. Either need beta or more power.

Project shopping, this one was hard. Start wasn’t as bad as expected; hard as through the roof but could see how to do the crux; just short on time so didn’t try it very long then pulled to the top.

Taking Yui abseiling / climbing with Caitlyn

With Caitlyn, Jack and Tinam with a brief feature from Robin and Kristie.

Pleasant climb, cool position and comfy belays! Led all the pitches as it was just the most straight forward way with our party.

P1: Easy traverse, cams in breaks. P2: Quite the awkward move into the corner, rest is straight forward. Some gear down low and up high. P3: Cool exposed start, jug haul. Put in two pieces, just because I could!

First lap I skipped the start and was trying to sort clipping beta in the scoop but struggled so came down.

Second lap I skipped the start again and kind of sorted beta for the scoop then put the rest of the draws up.

Third lap, fell on the starting move, went too far!

Lowered to immediately try again, didn’t feel confident but hung on for dear life and managed to get the send!!! Didn’t even use the clipping beta I came up with! Super stoked!!

Had to come back after falling off the top last time. First lap to brush and check beta on the top jugs.

Sent confidently on the second lap! Awesome! First 27.

Repeat with Robin and Caitlyn but a total Alzheimers onsight, including going the wrong way on P1; future reference, just stay on the right side.

P2 was easier than I remembered with no off-widthing required.

P3 start was still hard as shit and I didn’t remember the chimney being that tight but I still had an absolute blast of a time. So good!!

Definitely sections of “do not fall” on P1 and P3.

Short session after work, banned from even looking right at the top supposedly, left is the OG.

1. Beta lap, been a while, skipped the start, no falls.

2. First red point, fell after the second crux, out of steam.

3. Fell second crux on last move, didn’t go far enough with left hand.

4. Probably a bit rushed, not that much rest, fell after the crux AGAIN! Hit the jug by the last clip with only 3 fingers and 1 pad.

It’ll go next time!!

In approach boots to clean, wet up top but still doable.

Wasn’t planning to pull on today but Grape Hour had a 5 person line, maybe 20 people including 3 kids and 2 dogs at main wall???

First lap placing draws and brushing, sent second lap. Didn’t climb the bottom very well but recovered on the jug enough to send it! Don’t build a cairn, even I have to jump!!

Placing draws for Van and Caitlyn

Ok actually had a good time on this today!! Managed all the moves and clips, but just out of power on my red point lap, one hold from the thank god jug.

Can stick the big starting move consistently now I think?? Scoop clip still feels awkward.

Managed two laps to the top and a handful just working the start through to the scoop.

Just a bolt to bolt, warm up and brushing lap! Main wall was wet!! The wind and rain was crazy!

Didn’t give it enough juice to get to the back of the hold at the end of the crux first go. Could totally drop it post crux too!

Second go, got through crux nicely but nearly came off afterwards trying different beta. Reeled it back in, did a mixture of my original beta and the different beta and just managed to hold on for the send. Super good.

Cleaning up a 10 year old hangdog, crux done directly on the bolt

A nice warm up, except I definitely did the crux wrong (big drive by) Repeat from 10+ years ago

End of day cooldown lap, forgot everything so cranked off the sloper at the top