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The trad version of 'China Doll'.

An outrageous, overhanging open project. The first pitch is bolted and has not been freed, the 2nd pitch goes on gear but has only been top roped clean.

Best approached from the West by parking just before Skjellesvikskaret. A faint climbers trail trends right across the base & up to the lake where open grassy slopes lead to the top of Kjerna. Rapp down the SE cliffs of the ridge (2 rapps, 1 bolt on each station)

Unitl the 4th ring hanger of 'Das grosse Knübbeln' then exit via 'Jägermeister'

A variant of Vernissage.

The route is on the Northwest Face of the Higher Cathedral Spire and it’s first pitches (mainly) follow the original Grade IV/A4 route climbed by legends Royal Robins and Tom Frost.

1. 5.10 “Splitter”

2. 5.11 “Hand-Over-Fist Crack”

3. 5.12 “Chimney of Horrors”

4. 5.13d “The Guillotine”

5. 5.12 “Royal Ramp”

6. 5.11 “Fissure Ben”

7. 5.13 “KJ Layaway”

8. 5.12 “Guano Arch”

9. 5.12 “Twelve Karat”

10. 5.?

11. 5.12 “Jorgeson Roof” – Likely the “high quality horizontal hand crack” described by Rob Miller

12. 5.9 “Summit Squeeze”

A closed project

At the very top of The Gonk is a spell binding corner. From the top of The Gonk rappel from a double bolt belay onto a ledge which is the top of The Life of Meaning. The crux is well protected by cams and the second half of the route is sparsely protected with small wires and potentially ball nuts if you have them.

https://brattelinjer.no/problem/7597

Firetail

Direct start to Braille Trail up the arete and through the roof via the world’s hardest mantel.

Gear:

2 sets of friends up to 1 and one 3 plus 2 sets of micro friends and one set of nuts

RP

Nubivagant and Leve Leve share their final two and a half pitches.

Repeated and downgraded from 5.14a by Ethan Pringle.

Dedicatd to Vecio Alpestre Renato Larcher

Gear

10 quickdraws + Totem Cams Black – Blue – Purple – Red

Above the Champs-Élysées ledge, they joined Ramedame (Remy-Remy, 1986) and followed this route for another six pitches (up to 6b) to the top. They placed 11 protection bolts on the new pitches and outfitted the belays with anchor bolts.

Article. Video. AAC article with topo.

This route is a bit of a legend. Known to be led by a certain bold and strong lad. The legend is as follows. Start on Camisole Cusp. When you finish the first steep section and the short left traverse, keep going left of the bolts. Continue up on really small gear.

oder 8/A1