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The Buttress

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Morialta

Part of the area is located within the Morialta Conservation Park.

Approach

Park 300m towards town from the main gate to Boulder Bridge, Far Crag etc. There is a small car park (1-2 cars) on the S side of the road beneath the power lines.

Step over the guard rail at the yellow post and descend the very steep track to the cliff. The track can be treacherous when wet.

The cliff can also be approached from below, starting above Second Falls.

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Descent notes

Descent can be made on the right side (looking out)

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Ethic inherited from Morialta

Morialta is primarily a trad climbing and toproping area. Chipping, excessive chalk, litter and new bolts are all frowned upon and/or illegal.

Some routes have good natural gear, some have none (if the first ascensionist soloed it that is a good giveaway.) Most routes can be toproped and there are ring bollards in the more popular areas - use these where available and do not tie off to trees.

Any bolt repairs should be done in conjunction with the Climbing Club of South Australia.

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History

History timeline chart

The AUMC were exploring Morialta starting at the bottom, so this area was explored in the early 1960s before the areas further upstream. The Buttress (13) features what is probably the oldest bolt in the Adelaide hills.

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Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs Coalition up to Gorilla My Dreams, then follows that to the top. Bad protection at the start, as with Coalition.

FA: 2012

A great route with an even better name. Follow gillette to the ledge, then step backaround the arete and jam the big diagonal crack. When it peters out prematurely at a shallow niche you're forced into a couple of steep, thin moves to gain summit brick.

FA: Colin Reece, 1977

Gain the start of the wide crack by starting lower down in the gully (left of the now more popular true Direct Start)

FA: Gary Scott, 1980

Start halfway up the gully and launch directly up the wall following the bolted line. Bouldery start, then a very good rest mid-way up leads to a finger-jug at the final horizontal. Break left via a reachy move into the steep diagonal crackline, then finish up it.

Climb 'Gorilla My Dreams Direct Start' to the top horizontal (finger-jug), but instead of breaking left to finish up the crack, go directly straight up via the hanging flake/sidepull.

FA: Ascends the hanging flake to the right of the original crack finish

Longest route on the wall. Actually starts as for 'Gorilla My Dreams Original Direct Start' and takes a long diagonal up this then right across the now more popular bolted DS. Where that route breaks left to finish up the crack, keep trending right along the horizontal for a couple of moves, then launch upwards via underclings through a very bouldery finish exiting about 2-3m right of the other lines. Watch your back at the top.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2000

This is more like it. run out face climbing. Start below and L of Balance's little roof and climb directly up the wall. No pro beyond half height.

FA: Gary Scott, 1979

Close relative of Lorikeet. Start in left side of cave. Straight up crossing Lorikeet and through second roof on improving rock.

FA: Burke & Oerman

FA: Mike Dixon, Rick & Fred Dyer, 2008

Start below the overhung arete and step around left and up to right facing corner. Up and left to avoid the roof passing a truly horrible looking rusty carrot. Follow the crack to the top.

FA: 1979

FA: Malc Cochran, 1983

FA: 1979

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Fri 12 May
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