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Ascents as various tick types by Douglas Hockly

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Showing 101 - 200 out of 1,174 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 29th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
23 Ground to a Halt Trad 14m Average
One #3RP if I remember right

 
21 20 Egotistical Pineapple (Egotistical Pinapple) Trad 14m Very Good
Great route, sustained and interesting, definitely 21 for me.

 
23 The Guilt By Association Years Sport 10m Don't Bother
There are many, many better routes than this here

 
11 Parson's Pleasure Trad 10m Good
Actually ok

 
17 16 Forked Tongue Trad 15m Average
Remember it being hard for the grade

 
20 19 Off the Wall Trad 13m Good
Interesting climbing, shame about the ledge

 
19 Southern Comfort Trad 15m Very Good
Really great, spoilt a bit by the loose ramble to a tree

 
17 16 Sabrasucker Trad 25m Good
Pretty tough but gear is ok

 
Sun 17th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
14 Grandma's Tonic Trad 18m Crap
omg. Thought I'd do this to get to Theory ledge. There's a groove that's totally composed of loose blocks. Shockingly awful, and dirty and dangerous and shit climbing - it's got it all...

 
24 Keep Left Trad 25m Very Good
I really liked this! Super interesting climbing with flared jams, shallow bridging, face climbing and a layback section to finish. Sustained and technical. Would be hard to place gear on lead. The undercling is fragile, don't break it or it'll get a lot harder! Second shot tr.

 
25 Carrion Comfort Trad 25m Very Good
I thought this was good but a little disappointing as if you're tall (and remotely flexible) you can bridge to LLL.

 
19 Inquisition Trad 27m Very Good
Take big cams but no actual offwidthing

 
22 Thrutching is the Reward of Thrutching Trad 12m Good
Think of this in the same vein as "11a offwidth". An amazing (though very short) corner with crap holds at the back and desperate insecure bridge-thrutching and squeak-panting. 2 falls until I realised I was facing the wrong way.

 
20 Cannabis Crack - with Wendy Eden Trad 40m Good
A good route with bad climbing? The start is great, and the rock is good the whole way, but the top is a really long increasingly desperate thrutch. Good to have done it once.

 
16 17 Blood, Sweat and Tears Trad 40m Very Good
Great except for the tight awkward section in the middle. Well protected, actually takes a lot of midsize cams

 
25 Future Tense Trad 40m Very Good
Lovely climbing on the top wall, if you start up BST this feels like 24/5. I did TR the original start, which is quite hard but sadly not that great and has some dodgy rock.

 
22 Snipe Mixed trad 23m, 2
Don't remember anything!

 
20 Pollux Trad 23m Good
A really good route with a short section of proper offwidthing. I chicken winged and found it totally desperate but I imagine that there is better technique one could apply.

 
17 16 Castor Trad 22m Very Good
This is a great route! Good rock and no actual offwidthing despite appearances. More like 17 though.

 
18 Sacrilege Crack Trad 25m Good
I found this really hard at the top but I don't feel like I have good offwidth technique. Quite a good route apart from some scary loose bits.

 
18 Resurrection Corner Trad 25m Average
All I remember is really sore feet. Not really a fan of this one.

 
18 Fat Mattress Trad 30m Good
Interesting all the way. A bit broken by ledges but well worthwhile. The start is tricky and hard to protect - you can get a #6 Camalot in the flare to back up the other pieces if you have one.

 
18 Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Trad 20m Good
22 Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Start Trad 10m Good
17 Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Finish Trad 6m
20 Erg Trad 25m Good
Gets quite wide in the middle. The finish, though it looks ugly, is actually OK

 
25 Hard Nose Trad 25m
26 Hard Nose DS Trad 25m Classic
Fantastic route. Second or third shot.

 
22 Black Light Trad 25m Very Good
I find this incredibly hard and insecure due to a) poor crack technique and b) my hands don't go into the crack so it's all marginal thin hands.

 
18 Blood of the Christ Trad 25m Average
Not as awful as it looks, but the top has some big loose blocks that guarantee it's future unpopularity.

 
22 Child in Time Trad 25m Classic
I find this desperate in the top half where its very thin hands for me. Actually easier without tape gloves as I can get more of my hand in!

 
21 A Hundred and One - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Average
24 Inquisition in the Rye - with Wendy Eden Trad 27m Very Good
This really is great. The first bit of Inquisition is excellent, clean, interesting climbing. The top half of Catcher in the Rye is wonderful, jams and locks and quite sustained on excellent rock. It's a little dirty as nobody ever does it. Might be 24, certainly had Wendy and I pulling out all stops to get up it without coming off despite having TR'd it a few days ago.

 
Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall
22 Running Amok - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 15m, 1 Very Good
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.

 
Tue 5th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
20 Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles Trad 32m Good
Mon 4th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
West of the access track
19 Sorcerer's Apprentice Trad 30m Very Good
I think the start has cleaned up a bit by now but still take care.

 
21 Satyricon - with Ben Weissner Trad 35m Good
OK, I wasn't really taken with this but it is a nice long pitch. I found the finish very hard.

 
22 Old Guard - with Wendy Eden Trad 40m Very Good
Better than it looks and there are a number of stances on the way.

 
20 Termination Trad 18m Good
These days I put a side runner in IIL to the right as the wire placement at the start is not that inspiring.

 
16 Integrated Injection Logic - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Average
19 18 Plume Trad 25m Very Good
Great. And well protected.

 
24 Bitching and Back Stabbing Mixed trad 12m, 2 Good
An interesting move or two but short

 
18 Gladiator Trad 20m Good
23 Nosy Business Mixed trad 20m, 4 Average
Don't really remember this, the climbing didn't stand out.

 
18 Chocolate Watch Band Trad 17m Good
I quite like this but it's very hard when you have rudimentary wide crack skills!

 
6 Saturday Afternoon Walk Trad 15m Good
15 Rest Area Ahead Trad 10m Average
19 Humility Trad 15m Average
Pretty poor gear. There's not much climbing either.

 
18 Witches Covert - with Wendy Eden Trad 12m Average
The start is interesting (and a bit slick and desperate) but the chimney up the top is no fun. And no gear. And some loose bits.

 
22 Lonely Teardrops - with Wendy Eden Trad 22m Classic
Really great.

 
19 Infinity - with Wendy Eden Trad 40m Classic
Awsm!

 
25 Stonkers and Steroids - with Paul Hoskins Mixed trad 30m, 4 Good
Second or third shot, after which it was promptly downgraded from 26... sigh. Boulder problems between jugs.

 
28 Brown Corduroy Trousers - with Ingvar Lidman Trad 25m Very Good
Beautiful climbing in the initial groove and the top, the crux is not quite as nice - just really hard crimping. I wore a groove in my left boot on the crux edge - always thought my foot was going to blow but I guess the groove held it on! Strangely takes lots of gear between #2 and #3 RP size. 3 days I think.

 
23 Epic Journey - with Chad Albinger Trad 30m Classic
Good gear, great climbing, lovely route.

 
18 Fluid / Epic Link Up Trad 30m Very Good
This is really great! interesting and varied climbing, though can be a bit dirty up high.

 
21 Fluid Journey Trad 40m Good
Pretty good, one hard move up the top, but the linkup or Epic are better

 
23 22 Insomnia Trad 40m Don't Bother
Everyone, it seems, loves this route except me. It's a good looking line but there is a frightening amount of loose rock in the first half, an unpleasant slopey mantle and then a quite avoidable offwidth. The climbing's just not very good.

 
20 Piranha Trad 45m Very Good
Really like this one. Varied and interesting.

 
24 Worrying Heights Trad 30m Very Good
Most people seem to think this is a mega classic but it doesn't really grab me. It's good, but some loose feeling rock and the way it goes out to the arete detracts for me. Still very good, I just enjoy other things more.

 
19 Electronic Flag DS - RHS (Electronic Flag DS) Trad 10m Average
super slippery now

 
14 Electronic Flag Trad 40m Good
I remember wobbling up this with anchor-like rope drag on one of my first leads at Frog

 
18 Arknamton 2 - with Wendy Eden Trad 30m Don't Bother
Not worth it.

 
22 No Return Trad 30m Good
Wobbled my way up this as one of my early 21s...

 
10 Strawberry Alarm-clock Trad 20m Don't Bother
Horrible, but all chimneys are the same. They should only be used for expelling smoke, not climbing.

 
14 Orchid Alley Trad 20m Average
Don't remember enjoying this.

 
17 Blow by Blow Mixed trad 18m, 1 Average
13 Clockwork Orange Corner Trad 15m Average
Desperate as your first route at Frog after a few weeks of climbing! Not a great choice for early leaders unless you have a lot of biggish gear.

 
20 20 R Sleight of Hand Trad 8m Very Good
I remember this being remarkably nice for a short thing. Not that I've got anything against short things, of course.

 
22 Lord Drool Sport 6m Good
24 Down With His Pants Mixed trad 20m, 3 Very Good
The bottom has a cool sequence, I remember enjoying the top too.

 
24 Suicide City - with Wendy Eden Trad 20m Very Good
Just squeaked up this one on second! Really good, odd climbing, very sustained for the first 8m or so.

 
Sat 2nd Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress
East of the access track
22 Tight Lips and Cold Feet Trad 20m Good
Good at the start, I remember having a wobble up higher at a slabby bit and some hollow sounding rock.

 
13 13 R Asbestos Grapefruit - with Edwin Irvine Trad 22m Crap
I did this with Edwin as the first climb of our 'fruit themed route names day'. I remember pulling down half a cubic metre of leaf litter on myself and thinking 'we're going to do some really crap routes today and this is one of them'

 
19 Peaches and Cream Trad 20m Don't Bother
Dirty, poor rock, poor gear, climbing is nothing special - what are you waiting for?

 
19 Monty Python's Flying Circus Trad 25m Don't Bother
I thought this was pretty poor. The initial corner is really hard to protect and the upper corner feels loose and is a lot easier. There are way better routes here.

 
22 Yodel up the Valley Trad 22m Average
Not that memorable.

 
21 The Stars Look Down Trad 18m Average
I'm not a fan of this one. Poor gear in the first 5m or so then tricky small wires and everything feels loose in the top section. There are way better routes, I think this one gets traffic because it's face climbing and looks better than it is.

 
13 Tardis - with Wendy Eden Trad 10m Don't Bother
Crappy.

 
14 Theory Trad 25m Crap
Horrible climbing and very difficult to protect adequately. I'd never do it again.

 
15 Mechanical Prune - with Wendy Eden Trad 18m Don't Bother
I thought this was horrible from start to finish.

 
14 Shit Heap - with Wendy Eden Trad 10m Good
Nice.

 
13 Electric Mud Trad 10m Good
Good but short

 
15 Iron Butterfly - with Wendy Eden Trad 28m Don't Bother
I remember this having a nice start, a large loose block at the roof, and then a steep gully filled with chockstones in the top half. I wouldn't do it again.

 
20 Rickety Kate - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Very Good
Good, but I wouldn't describe it as one of the best routes on the cliff. Nice climbing and rock with good gear but quite short.

 
16 Winston Alley - with Wendy Eden Trad 10m Good
Quite tough for the grade (how surprising) but good climbing and gear. I like this one.

 
17 Side-pocket Shot - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Average
16 Horse-drawn Zeppelin Trad 12m Average
A bit greasy. I'm not that taken with this one.

 
16 Century - with Wendy Eden Trad 15m Good
Staunch like many 16s at Frog!

 
22 Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! Trad 28m Don't Bother
17 Wizards Back Trad 10m Good
14 Electric Lead Trad 26m Good
16 Materialistic Prostitution Trad 20m Very Good
A good and well protected route - unlike many of the 16's here!

 
23 De Facto Trad 18m Good
Did this about 1990 over two days. It's got good climbing but some slightly creaky flakes. You'd be mad not to place the side runner in MP - it's very close and much better than the RP's in the seam.

 
17 Erectile Kingpin - with Wendy Eden Trad 16m Average
Not bad, two shortish sections. The top bit seemed slippery and desperate, but that's what I expect for Frog 17s!

 
18 Noose - with Wendy Eden Trad 22m Don't Bother
Not that great. A loose block, scrappy climbing.

 
Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
23 Rain Aneurysm - with Wendy Eden Mixed trad 35m, 2 Good
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.

 
Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
19 Silent Senile Running Foxes - with Wendy Eden Trad 35m Good
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.

 
16 Heart Full of Soul - with Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy Trad 60m Good
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.

 
21 Only Fools Eat Marmite Trad 30m Good
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom
18 Perpetual Standstill - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark Trad 40m Good
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!

 

Showing 101 - 200 out of 1,174 ascents.