Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 29th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
23 | Ground to a Halt | 14m | Average | |||
One #3RP if I remember right
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21 20 | ★★ Egotistical Pineapple (Egotistical Pinapple) | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great route, sustained and interesting, definitely 21 for me.
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23 | The Guilt By Association Years | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
There are many, many better routes than this here
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11 | ★ Parson's Pleasure | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Actually ok
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17 16 | ★ Forked Tongue | 15m | Average | |||
Remember it being hard for the grade
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20 19 | ★ Off the Wall | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting climbing, shame about the ledge
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19 | ★★ Southern Comfort | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really great, spoilt a bit by the loose ramble to a tree
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17 16 | ★ Sabrasucker | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty tough but gear is ok
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Sun 17th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
14 | Grandma's Tonic | 18m | Crap | |||
omg. Thought I'd do this to get to Theory ledge. There's a groove that's totally composed of loose blocks. Shockingly awful, and dirty and dangerous and shit climbing - it's got it all...
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24 | ★★ Keep Left | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I really liked this! Super interesting climbing with flared jams, shallow bridging, face climbing and a layback section to finish. Sustained and technical. Would be hard to place gear on lead. The undercling is fragile, don't break it or it'll get a lot harder! Second shot tr.
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25 | ★★★ Carrion Comfort | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought this was good but a little disappointing as if you're tall (and remotely flexible) you can bridge to LLL.
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19 | ★★ Inquisition | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Take big cams but no actual offwidthing
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22 | ★ Thrutching is the Reward of Thrutching | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Think of this in the same vein as "11a offwidth". An amazing (though very short) corner with crap holds at the back and desperate insecure bridge-thrutching and squeak-panting. 2 falls until I realised I was facing the wrong way.
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20 | ★★ Cannabis Crack - with Wendy Eden | 40m | ★ Good | |||
A good route with bad climbing? The start is great, and the rock is good the whole way, but the top is a really long increasingly desperate thrutch. Good to have done it once.
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16 17 | ★★ Blood, Sweat and Tears | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great except for the tight awkward section in the middle. Well protected, actually takes a lot of midsize cams
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25 | ★★★ Future Tense | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely climbing on the top wall, if you start up BST this feels like 24/5. I did TR the original start, which is quite hard but sadly not that great and has some dodgy rock.
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22 | ★★ Snipe | 23m, 2 | ||||
Don't remember anything!
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20 | ★★ Pollux | 23m | ★ Good | |||
A really good route with a short section of proper offwidthing. I chicken winged and found it totally desperate but I imagine that there is better technique one could apply.
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17 16 | ★ Castor | 22m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is a great route! Good rock and no actual offwidthing despite appearances. More like 17 though.
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18 | ★★ Sacrilege Crack | 25m | ★ Good | |||
I found this really hard at the top but I don't feel like I have good offwidth technique. Quite a good route apart from some scary loose bits.
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18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner | 25m | Average | |||
All I remember is really sore feet. Not really a fan of this one.
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18 | ★ Fat Mattress | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Interesting all the way. A bit broken by ledges but well worthwhile. The start is tricky and hard to protect - you can get a #6 Camalot in the flare to back up the other pieces if you have one.
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18 | ★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla | 20m | ★ Good | |||
22 | ★★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Start | 10m | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla Direct Finish | 6m | ||||
20 | ★★ Erg | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Gets quite wide in the middle. The finish, though it looks ugly, is actually OK
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25 | ★★ Hard Nose | 25m | ||||
26 | ★★★ Hard Nose DS | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic route. Second or third shot.
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22 | ★★★ Black Light | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I find this incredibly hard and insecure due to a) poor crack technique and b) my hands don't go into the crack so it's all marginal thin hands.
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18 | ★ Blood of the Christ | 25m | Average | |||
Not as awful as it looks, but the top has some big loose blocks that guarantee it's future unpopularity.
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22 | ★★★ Child in Time | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
I find this desperate in the top half where its very thin hands for me. Actually easier without tape gloves as I can get more of my hand in!
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21 | A Hundred and One - with Wendy Eden | 12m | Average | |||
24 | ★★ Inquisition in the Rye - with Wendy Eden | 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This really is great. The first bit of Inquisition is excellent, clean, interesting climbing. The top half of Catcher in the Rye is wonderful, jams and locks and quite sustained on excellent rock. It's a little dirty as nobody ever does it. Might be 24, certainly had Wendy and I pulling out all stops to get up it without coming off despite having TR'd it a few days ago.
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Wed 6th Jul 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Amok Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Running Amok - with Wendy Eden | 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
10 laps training in my Become Adam Demmert programme. Having the plastic surgery next week - so excited! Conditions a bit warm, had to climb shirtless by the end.
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Tue 5th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Mon 4th Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think the start has cleaned up a bit by now but still take care.
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21 | ★★ Satyricon - with Ben Weissner | 35m | ★ Good | |||
OK, I wasn't really taken with this but it is a nice long pitch. I found the finish very hard.
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22 | ★★★ Old Guard - with Wendy Eden | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Better than it looks and there are a number of stances on the way.
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20 | ★★ Termination | 18m | ★ Good | |||
These days I put a side runner in IIL to the right as the wire placement at the start is not that inspiring.
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16 | ★ Integrated Injection Logic - with Wendy Eden | 15m | Average | |||
19 18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great. And well protected.
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24 | ★ Bitching and Back Stabbing | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
An interesting move or two but short
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18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★ Nosy Business | 20m, 4 | Average | |||
Don't really remember this, the climbing didn't stand out.
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18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band | 17m | ★ Good | |||
I quite like this but it's very hard when you have rudimentary wide crack skills!
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6 | ★ Saturday Afternoon Walk | 15m | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★ Rest Area Ahead | 10m | Average | |||
19 | ★ Humility | 15m | Average | |||
Pretty poor gear. There's not much climbing either.
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18 | ★ Witches Covert - with Wendy Eden | 12m | Average | |||
The start is interesting (and a bit slick and desperate) but the chimney up the top is no fun. And no gear. And some loose bits.
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22 | ★★★ Lonely Teardrops - with Wendy Eden | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Really great.
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19 | ★★★ Infinity - with Wendy Eden | 40m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Awsm!
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25 | ★★ Stonkers and Steroids - with Paul Hoskins | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Second or third shot, after which it was promptly downgraded from 26... sigh. Boulder problems between jugs.
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28 | ★★★ Brown Corduroy Trousers - with Ingvar Lidman | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Beautiful climbing in the initial groove and the top, the crux is not quite as nice - just really hard crimping. I wore a groove in my left boot on the crux edge - always thought my foot was going to blow but I guess the groove held it on! Strangely takes lots of gear between #2 and #3 RP size. 3 days I think.
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23 | ★★★ Epic Journey - with Chad Albinger | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Good gear, great climbing, lovely route.
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18 | ★★ Fluid / Epic Link Up | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is really great! interesting and varied climbing, though can be a bit dirty up high.
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21 | ★★ Fluid Journey | 40m | ★ Good | |||
Pretty good, one hard move up the top, but the linkup or Epic are better
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23 22 | ★★★ Insomnia | 40m | Don't Bother | |||
Everyone, it seems, loves this route except me. It's a good looking line but there is a frightening amount of loose rock in the first half, an unpleasant slopey mantle and then a quite avoidable offwidth. The climbing's just not very good.
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20 | ★★★ Piranha | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really like this one. Varied and interesting.
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24 | ★★★ Worrying Heights | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Most people seem to think this is a mega classic but it doesn't really grab me. It's good, but some loose feeling rock and the way it goes out to the arete detracts for me. Still very good, I just enjoy other things more.
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19 | ★★ Electronic Flag DS - RHS (Electronic Flag DS) | 10m | Average | |||
super slippery now
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14 | ★★ Electronic Flag | 40m | ★ Good | |||
I remember wobbling up this with anchor-like rope drag on one of my first leads at Frog
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18 | Arknamton 2 - with Wendy Eden | 30m | Don't Bother | |||
Not worth it.
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22 | ★ No Return | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Wobbled my way up this as one of my early 21s...
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10 | Strawberry Alarm-clock | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Horrible, but all chimneys are the same. They should only be used for expelling smoke, not climbing.
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14 | ★ Orchid Alley | 20m | Average | |||
Don't remember enjoying this.
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17 | Blow by Blow | 18m, 1 | Average | |||
13 | ★★ Clockwork Orange Corner | 15m | Average | |||
Desperate as your first route at Frog after a few weeks of climbing! Not a great choice for early leaders unless you have a lot of biggish gear.
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20 20 R | ★★ Sleight of Hand | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I remember this being remarkably nice for a short thing. Not that I've got anything against short things, of course.
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22 | ★★ Lord Drool | 6m | ★ Good | |||
24 | ★★ Down With His Pants | 20m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The bottom has a cool sequence, I remember enjoying the top too.
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24 | ★★ Suicide City - with Wendy Eden | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just squeaked up this one on second! Really good, odd climbing, very sustained for the first 8m or so.
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Sat 2nd Jul 2016 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
22 | ★★ Tight Lips and Cold Feet | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Good at the start, I remember having a wobble up higher at a slabby bit and some hollow sounding rock.
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13 13 R | Asbestos Grapefruit - with Edwin Irvine | 22m | Crap | |||
I did this with Edwin as the first climb of our 'fruit themed route names day'. I remember pulling down half a cubic metre of leaf litter on myself and thinking 'we're going to do some really crap routes today and this is one of them'
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19 | Peaches and Cream | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
Dirty, poor rock, poor gear, climbing is nothing special - what are you waiting for?
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19 | ★★ Monty Python's Flying Circus | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
I thought this was pretty poor. The initial corner is really hard to protect and the upper corner feels loose and is a lot easier. There are way better routes here.
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22 | ★ Yodel up the Valley | 22m | Average | |||
Not that memorable.
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21 | ★★ The Stars Look Down | 18m | Average | |||
I'm not a fan of this one. Poor gear in the first 5m or so then tricky small wires and everything feels loose in the top section. There are way better routes, I think this one gets traffic because it's face climbing and looks better than it is.
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13 | ★ Tardis - with Wendy Eden | 10m | Don't Bother | |||
Crappy.
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14 | ★ Theory | 25m | Crap | |||
Horrible climbing and very difficult to protect adequately. I'd never do it again.
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15 | ★ Mechanical Prune - with Wendy Eden | 18m | Don't Bother | |||
I thought this was horrible from start to finish.
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14 | ★ Shit Heap - with Wendy Eden | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Nice.
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13 | ★ Electric Mud | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Good but short
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15 | ★ Iron Butterfly - with Wendy Eden | 28m | Don't Bother | |||
I remember this having a nice start, a large loose block at the roof, and then a steep gully filled with chockstones in the top half. I wouldn't do it again.
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20 | ★★★ Rickety Kate - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good, but I wouldn't describe it as one of the best routes on the cliff. Nice climbing and rock with good gear but quite short.
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16 | ★ Winston Alley - with Wendy Eden | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Quite tough for the grade (how surprising) but good climbing and gear. I like this one.
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17 | ★ Side-pocket Shot - with Wendy Eden | 15m | Average | |||
16 | ★ Horse-drawn Zeppelin | 12m | Average | |||
A bit greasy. I'm not that taken with this one.
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16 | ★ Century - with Wendy Eden | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Staunch like many 16s at Frog!
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22 | Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! | 28m | Don't Bother | |||
17 | ★★ Wizards Back | 10m | ★ Good | |||
14 | ★ Electric Lead | 26m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A good and well protected route - unlike many of the 16's here!
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23 | ★ De Facto | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Did this about 1990 over two days. It's got good climbing but some slightly creaky flakes. You'd be mad not to place the side runner in MP - it's very close and much better than the RP's in the seam.
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17 | ★ Erectile Kingpin - with Wendy Eden | 16m | Average | |||
Not bad, two shortish sections. The top bit seemed slippery and desperate, but that's what I expect for Frog 17s!
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18 | ★ Noose - with Wendy Eden | 22m | Don't Bother | |||
Not that great. A loose block, scrappy climbing.
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Thu 9th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm - with Wendy Eden | 35m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.
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Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes - with Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Good | |||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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16 | Heart Full of Soul - with Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy | 60m | ★ Good | |||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 | ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★ Good | |||
Thu 2nd Jun 2016 - Arapiles | ||||||
Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||
18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill - with Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 40m | ★ Good | |||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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