Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 2nd Sep 2021 - Unterharz | ||||||
Steinbachtal Der Zweite | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Pendeltür - with Torsten | 19m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
aptly named, consistently interesting
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6+ 6 | ★★ Danke Horst - with Torsten | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
a bit too crispy in places
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4+ 4 | ★★ Fünf Strolche - with Torsten | 20m, 4 | Average | |||
somewhat awkward starting moves for this grade
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6- | [rechte Kante] - with Torsten | 17m, 4 | Average | |||
demands some flexibility
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Müglitztal | ||||||
Rollefelsen Lok | ||||||
6+ 6 | ★ Eumelvariante - with Danilo Hondo | 5 | ★ Good | |||
place at stopper before the first bolt to protect the lower crux
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Müglitztal | ||||||
Rollefelsen Männerrolle | ||||||
7+ 7- | ★★ Plaisir - with Danilo Hondo | ★★ Very Good | ||||
technical moves
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Wed 25th Aug 2021 - Müglitztal | ||||||
Rollefelsen Mädelrolle | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Kombination - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
somewhat vegetated at the end
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6+ | ★★ Südostkante - with Danilo Hondo | 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
sketchy start, bring some stopper or cam
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7- 6+ | ★★ Midnight Lady - with Danilo Hondo | 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
very homogeneous and well protected; interesting finishing moves
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7 | ★ Herbstsolo - with Danilo Hondo | 3 | ★ Good | |||
single move crux, very defined: don't use right side of flake where the second bolt is
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Sun 27th Jun 2021 - Stößenseebrücke | ||||||
6+ | Buchhard Pfeiler (ohne Kanten) (Buchhard Pfeiler (nur Struktur)) - with Lea | 12m | Average | |||
7- | Amazonenpfeiler (ohne Kanten) (Amazonenpfeiler (nur Struktur)) - with Lea | 15m | Average | |||
Lots of guano on top.
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7 | Verena - with Lea | 13m | Average | |||
Without edges.
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6+ | Boot (ohne Kanten) (Boot (nur Struktur)) - with Lea | 8m | Average | |||
6+ | Nautilus (ohne Kanten) (Nautilus (nur Struktur)) - with Lea | 10m | Average | |||
5+ | ★ Verschneidung - with Lea | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5 | Lustige Verschneidung - with Lea | 8m, 1 | Average | |||
Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Holzberg Sonnenplatte | ||||||
7 | ★ Mütze - with Danilo Hondo | Average | ||||
Reachy and some sand in some holds.
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Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Holzberg Valentinstag | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Verklemmt geklemmt - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Solid hand jams as soon as you get to the crack. Pure fun.
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6+ | ★★★ Valentinstag - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Small stepped "ramp" offers surprisingly good holds. Stunning finish.
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5 | ★ Aufschwung West - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Committing and reachy move to get the edge.
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7- | ★★ Richtung Unendlichkeit - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Good stemming is the key.
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Sun 13th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Holzberg Bohrlochwand | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Die Krönung - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 35m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Delicated somewhat reachy move in the final headwall.
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6- | ★★ Es lebe die S-Bahn - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 35m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool moves paste the overhang.
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6 | Froschkönigin - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 28m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
somewhat cramped
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5 | Kurze Sache - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Easy except for the final move to the ledge.
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6 | ★★ Viva España - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 35m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Treat the big block and the loose handhold in the final headwall carefully!
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Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Gaudlitzberg Rissplatte | ||||||
7- 6+ | ★ Little Big Crack | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
8- 7 | ★ Via Krokodila | 11m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky start and demanding intermediate moves
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6+ | ★★ 13. September Linke Einstiegsvariante | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sat 12th Jun 2021 - Hohburger Berge | ||||||
Gaudlitzberg Breite Wand | ||||||
5+ 5 | ★ Arminius - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m | Average | |||
5 | ★ Plitsch - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
6 | ★★ BtM-Kante - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
5+ 5 | ★★ Opium fürs Volk - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5- 5 | ★★ Alibi - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
6- 5 | The Plum-Projekt - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
4- 3 | Geile Keile - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 7 | Average | |||
great beginner's lead
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5 | Die Fete geht weiter - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
5+ 5 | Party 06 - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
5- 4 | Fipps - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
5 | Wetterhexe - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
5 | ★ Platsch - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
5 | La Boum 16 - with Danilo Hondo, Heineken | 15m, 5 | Average | |||
Sun 30th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Pik Lobetal | ||||||
7 | ★ Dura Lex Sed Lex | 2 | Average | |||
Reachy
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Sun 30th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Östliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Lichtensteinverschneidung | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 27th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Mount Lanke | ||||||
4 | Querschläger | 6m, 2 | Average | |||
A bit too much iron.
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Wed 26th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Pik Lobetal | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Humpeljungen ([Ostwand]) | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
5+ | ★ Birkenstraße | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
Adventurous, but somewhat damp.
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Mon 24th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Pik Lobetal | ||||||
7- | ★ Per aspera ad Astra Z. (Per aspera ad Asta Z.) | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Nice hooking. Way harder if you can do without backstepping.
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6 | ★★ Blungo 2 ([NO-Kante]) | 9m, 3 | Average | |||
Harder when you eliminate the edge.
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Mon 24th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Östliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
8- | ★ This is the beginning | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Starting moves require some flexibility.
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Mount Lanke | ||||||
6+ | ★ [Südwestkante] | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
I truly hope those bolts reach through the plastering into the solid concrete...
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6- | ★★ Alpinstil | 6m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Almost like real rock...
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Westliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Eisenhans | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting moves and good hand jams
|
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Sun 16th May 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Bunkerspitze | ||||||
6 | ★★ Fingerreibung | 6m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
6+ | ★★ Topropereibung | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
3 | Reibungskante | 6m, 3 | Average | |||
7- | ★ Schwere Reibung | 6m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Sun 18th Apr 2021 - Bunker "Koralle" | ||||||
Westliche Tunnelwand | ||||||
7- 7+ | ★ Nick | 2 | ★ Good | |||
7- | ★★ Fluke | 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Mon 12th Oct 2020 - Rudawy Janowickie | ||||||
Zamkowy Grzbiet Grupa Skalnych Bram Głaziska Janowickie | ||||||
V+ IV+ | ★★ Epifity - with Andreas | 16m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well protected sport climb with interesting moves
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Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Sokoliki | ||||||
Baba | ||||||
VI.1 | ★ Toto Lotek | 11m | ★ Good | |||
Not quite clear where exactly to bail out to the right.
|
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VI.1 | ★ Problemy Blondyny - with Andreas | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
Third bolt is hard to clip.
|
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Sun 11th Oct 2020 - Sokoliki | ||||||
Sokolik Duży | ||||||
VI.1 |
★★ Filar mgieł
- with
Andreas
| 52m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
When using the dihedral, things get a grade easier.
|
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Oberried | ||||||
Pinoccio | ||||||
6a+ | ★ La Boum | 18m | ★ Good | |||
crux is getting into the dihedral
|
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6c | ★★ Yosemite | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
first pitch 6a+, second pitch hold powerful laybacking through the overhang
|
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6c | ★ Shining | 30m | ★ Good | |||
cool dyno and balancy moves up the ramp. Very easy for the guidebook grade 6c.
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5c 6a+ | ★ Inlandsreport | 20m | ★ Good | |||
grade depends very much on how you climb at the 3rd (?) bolt: straight trough the slab (6a+) or bailing out right into the small dihedral (5c).
|
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Oberried | ||||||
Türkischer Honig | ||||||
4b 5a | ★ Frodo | 10m | ★ Good | |||
interesting but reachy move to splinter
|
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6b+ | ★★ Samurai | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
crux at the bulge at start of pitch 2, then sustained but easier laybacking on very sharp splinters. Easier towards the top.
|
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Sat 5th Sep 2020 - Oberried | ||||||
Rosmaries Baby | ||||||
5a | ★ Playboy | 18m | Average | |||
5b 6a | ★ Captain Hook | 18m | ★ Good | |||
6b 6b+ | ★ Chaos | 8m, 5 | Average | |||
not over until its over: Tricky traversing right to anchors
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Sat 8th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Eibenstock Herrenstein | ||||||
6+ 6 | ★ Hab ich nicht gewusst - with Danilo Hondo | 20m | ★ Good | |||
crumbly at top
|
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6 6+ | ★ Aktion Froschfelsen - with Danilo Hondo | 18m | ★ Good | |||
crumbly at top
|
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Fri 7th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Eibenstock Rockenstein | ||||||
6+ | ★ Freie Fahrt - with Danilo Hondo | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
vegetated and sharp
crystals. Probably V, until crux arete between bolt 6 and 7. No anchor, use pine for belay or walk off.
|
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Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Teufelssteingebiet Steinbachturm | ||||||
7- | ★★★ Kreuz der Jungfrau direkt - with Danilo Hondo | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
direct start is not that hard and straightforward.
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7 | ★★★ Führungswechsel - with Melwin Quacke | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
reachy clip at first roof, cool moves, bring extra
pro for final roof
|
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6+ | ★★★ Harz Baby - with Melwin Quacke | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
clean rock, very entertaining.
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Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Teufelssteingebiet Teufelsstein | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Westwand - with Danilo Hondo | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Somewhat polished holds. Not that straightforward between first and second bolt - at least at 28°C.
|
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Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Teufelssteingebiet Teufelsmauer | ||||||
7- | ★★ Büropfoten - with Danilo Hondo | 3 | ★ Good | |||
bailed
out at last bolt hard, being too hard to clip for this grade and slightly off right.
|
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6 | ★ Naturlehrpfad - with Danilo Hondo | 28m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
tricky move past first bulge
|
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7+ | ★★ Leni - with Danilo Hondo | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
some lichens, but not too bad, technical
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7- 6+ | ★★ Hagelverschneidung Abendvariante - with Danilo Hondo | 30m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
very versatile climbing. Don't fear the apparent runout to the bolt under the roof - there are large holds. Tricky balance moves out of the crack into the slab and past the bulge, the latter well protected.
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Wed 5th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Breitenbrunn Nonnenfelsen | ||||||
6+ | Fluchriss - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
7- | ★ Vater-Sohn-Kante - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Very defined: without grabbing the right-hand edge, it is harder than 7-.
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5+ | Tag der NVA - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
sharp crystals
|
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Tue 4th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Breitenbrunn Kammerstein | ||||||
VIIIa 7- | ★★ Sonnenplatte - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
interesting move to clip the first bolt, then easier. From last bolt before ledge, interesting balance move.
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VIIIa 7- | ★★ Kaffeepause - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Start harder than it looks. the crack is enjoyable and easy to climb.
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Tue 4th Aug 2020 - Auersberggebiet | ||||||
Breitenbrunn Magnetenwand | ||||||
5 5- | Altes Eisen - with Danilo Hondo | 7m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
6- | Gelobtes Land - with Danilo Hondo | 8m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Sun 2nd Aug 2020 - Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ||||||
Frauenholz Schokoladenfelsen | ||||||
6- | ★ Dany Sahne - with Danilo Hondo | 13m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
nice moves, but dirty
|
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Sat 1st Aug 2020 - Wolkensteiner Gebiet | ||||||
Himmelmühle Himmelmühlenwand | ||||||
4 | Versteckter Weg - with Danilo Hondo | 14m, 4 | Average | |||
crumbly on top
|
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7- | ★★ Tanz der Vampire - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
reachy
|
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6+ | ★ Na wie jetzt? - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
6- | ★ Kaffeepause - with Danilo Hondo | 12m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
4+ | Kurtis Verschneidung - with Danilo Hondo | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
6 | ★ Zwergnase - with Danilo Hondo | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
reachy after 3rd bolt
|
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6- | ★ Fingerblues - with Danilo Hondo | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
many lichens
|
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6 | ★ Lachendes Pferd - with Danilo Hondo | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
many lichens
|