Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 23rd Oct 2014 - Siurana | ||||||
Grau dels Masets Camí | ||||||
6b+ 6b | ★ Suape | Average | ||||
hard crimpy start
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5a 5 | L'escola | Average | ||||
5b+ 5+ | ★★ Fam Facil | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a | ★ Baronia De Cabaces | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Wed 22nd Oct 2014 - Montsant | ||||||
Roca de les Hores Centre | ||||||
6a+ 6b | ★ Joaquin er nesio | 15m | ★ Good | |||
removed some ivy and found nice climbing
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6a+ | ★★ El nene | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
6a | ★ Insert coin | 15m | ★ Good | |||
lots of pockets
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5c | A rajatanga | 15m | Average | |||
harder than it looks
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6a+ | Jose Mític | 15m | ||||
demanding upper half
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Mon 20th Oct 2014 - Olvena | ||||||
Garrapatillos | ||||||
5c 6a | Directa - with Efren | 22m | ||||
5b | Fisura calentamiento - with Efren | 22m | ||||
Sun 19th Oct 2014 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Merlí Pared del Chordal Sector Las Placas | ||||||
6a+ | ★ El Mago | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
bouldery start, then consitently hard moves
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Sun 19th Oct 2014 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Merlí Pared del Chordal Sector Fisuras | ||||||
5b+ 5+ | Garrerida Espanola - with Erik | 30m, 10 | Average | |||
some lychens in the lower part, then interesting moves with some balancy friction. Watch out for loose stones.
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Sun 19th Oct 2014 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Merlí Agulla de la Craba | ||||||
5b+ 5+ | (7) - with Erik | 15m, 6 | Average | |||
watch out for loose rock at the top
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6a+ 6a | ★ (6) - with Erik | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
some technical smearing moves in the rightward traversing section
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Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Kaitersberg | ||||||
Rauchröhren Steinturm | ||||||
4 5- | ★★ Alte Westwand | ★★ Very Good | ||||
balancy move past 1st bolt, then pure pleasure.
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7- | ★★ Kraftwerk | ★★ Very Good | ||||
jug fest
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6+ | ★★ Hilti | ★ Good | ||||
athletic first move, then slightly easier
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7 | Cool running | 20m | ||||
crux: clipping the second bolt. Use short quickdraw in first bolt.
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6 | ★★ Wintertraum - with D | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
balancy move past 1st bolt, then pure pleasure.
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Mon 21st Jul 2014 - Labské údolí | ||||||
Pravý břeh Belveder Sarajevská stěna | ||||||
VIIb | ★★ Osm kulí | 40m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bouldery start, then easier; with two additional slings for the crack perfectly protected.
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Sat 19th Jul 2014 - Labské údolí | ||||||
Levý břeh Mordor Věž Jílového potoka | ||||||
VI | Palmex | 12m, 2 | ||||
unfriendly first clip, the rest is nice
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Sun 15th Jun 2014 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Yosemite | ||||||
VIIa 6- | Einsteiger - with Andreas | 12m, 1 | Average | |||
crux after bolt
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VI 6 | ★★★ Hangelmarathon | 36m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 15th Jun 2014 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Leistenzauber | ||||||
6+ 6 | ★★ Himmelfahrt | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
medium-sized stopper is helpful to fill the gap between first and second bolt after ledge. Consistent difficulty.
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Thu 24th Apr 2014 - Regina del Lago | ||||||
Sector C | ||||||
6a |
★★ Semiramide (Semiramide P1)
- with
Jule
1
lead by
Melwin
| 95m | ||||
only first pitch. Felt less "plaisir" than Ernia (bolts further apart).
|
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6a+ | ★★ Super Gecko | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
great grip in a leaning dihedral with interesting moves
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6a |
★ Ernia
- with
Jule
1
5a
lead by
Melwin
2
6a
lead by
Melwin
3
lead by
Jule
4
lead by
Melwin
| 100m | ★ Good | |||
nice route through slightly too many bushes. A1 move (overhang at start of second pitch) would include pulling a quickdraw, a sling for stepping could be useful.
Last pitch finishes somewhat too the left. Walk off to avoid rockfall.
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6b+ | ★★ Ristorante Da Gianni | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Athletic moves and easy upper half
|
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Wed 23rd Apr 2014 - La Ponta | ||||||
Left sector | ||||||
6a 5b | Incastrino | 10m | Average | |||
few positive holds
|
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6a+ 6b | ★ Tienilo che scappa | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Beatiful grip
|
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6a | ★★ Roba da ciodi - Nem per fighi | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
start is the crux, rest nice moves in corner
|
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5c | ★ Via dei tetti | 18m | ★ Good | |||
crux at start. Couldn't find any anchors, traversed left along handrail crack to anchors of "Placcha"
|
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6a 5b+ | Prima fregatura | 10m | Average | |||
few positive holds
|
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Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Massi delle Traole Mangusta | ||||||
6b | ★ unknown | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5b 5c | ★★ Buon Anno (Un Bar Per Rita) | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Nago | ||||||
Falesia Segrom Sector A | ||||||
6a | ★ Orange crack (Unknown 4) | 20m | ★ Good | |||
large polished holds, but good hand jams
|
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6b+ 6b | Unknown 1 | 15m | Average | |||
hard move past bulge
|
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Tue 22nd Oct 2013 - Valle de Isábena | ||||||
Alto Valle de Isábena Peña del Serradillo Flaps-Pótamo | ||||||
6b | ★★ El día de los inocentes | 33m | ★★ Very Good | |||
versatile climbing, final crimpy meters were the crux for me.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Doce monos | 15m | ★ Good | |||
bouldery start
|
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5a 5 | ★ El suplente | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Sat 29th Jun 2013 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximilianswand | ||||||
6+ | ★ Spätlese (Spatlese) - with Danilo | 14m | ★ Good | |||
7+ | ★★ Ansbacher Weg - with Danilo | 14m, 5 | Average | |||
6+ 7- | ★ Südriss - with Danilo | 12m | ★ Good | |||
start is harder than it looks. No real crack climb.
|
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6+ 7- | ★ Gratwanderung - with Danilo | 10m | Average | |||
bouldery opening moves then easy cruise to anchors
|
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7 | ★★ Zwiespalt - with Danilo | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
awkward clip from ledge
|
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6 | ★ Luisenkreuz - with Danilo | 14m | Average | |||
Fri 28th Jun 2013 - Ellhorn - Fläscherberg | ||||||
Klettergarten Balzers | ||||||
5c | ★ Stand in Sicht (P1) (No name) - with Danilo | 18m | Average | |||
5c | Ohne Hund - with Danilo | 18m | Average | |||
5a | Querschläger - with Danilo | Average | ||||
6a | ★ Bananäschalä - with Danilo | 32m | ★ Good | |||
The move past the bulge is trickier than it looks. Can be linked into single pitch.
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6b | ★ n/a - with Danilo | ★ Good | ||||
still good friction
|
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6a | ★★ Blitzidee - with Danilo | 30m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Diverse climbing with tricky initial slab and interesting little knobs in the final wall. Can be linked into single pitch.
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Wed 26th Jun 2013 - Galerie | ||||||
Wald Waldsektor Weg | ||||||
5c+ | ★ Laseptique - with Danilo | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Wed 26th Jun 2013 - Galerie | ||||||
Wald Waldsektor links | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Ougadougou - with Danilo | 25m | ★ Good | |||
quite pumping and reachy in some parts
|
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Tue 25th Jun 2013 - Mescolana | ||||||
Falesia del Biscione | ||||||
6b+ 6c | ★★ Momento Fatale - with Danilo | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
rock is better than it looks, stemming is the key
|
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6b | ★★ Cric Croc - with Danilo | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
nice jam at the start, then easier to the top
|
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Tue 25th Jun 2013 - Placche del Boggia | ||||||
6a+ |
★★ Nuovo cinema paradiso
- with
Danilo
1
lead by
Melwin
2
lead by
Danilo
3
lead by
Melwin
4
lead by
Danilo
5
lead by
Melwin
6
lead by
Danilo
| 210m | ★ Good | |||
tricky start on slick rock off the block
|
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Mon 24th Jun 2013 - Sasso Bianco | ||||||
Settore Centrale | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Spigulino | 25m | ★ Good | |||
tricky start
|
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5c | ★★ Diedrini | 40m | ★ Good | |||
6a | ★ Via dei Gufi | 65m | ★ Good | |||
I somewhat bailed out after first bulge; traversing the crack is easier than it looks, but getting to the second anchors isn't
|
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Sat 22nd Jun 2013 - Känzele | ||||||
Traumland | ||||||
5c+ 6 | ★★ Traumland | 30m | Average | |||
★★ Hurleburebutz | 30m | |||||
6a+ 7- | ★★ Ixtlan | 35m | ★ Good | |||
interesting line
|
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Tue 9th Apr 2013 - Stogaj | ||||||
Pinnacle "Stogaj" | ||||||
5b 5c | ★★★ La Vida Loca | 60m, 19 | Average | |||
Continued from Halfmoon.
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Wed 3rd Apr 2013 - Paklenica | ||||||
Anića kuk Anića kuk - Trapez - Northwest | ||||||
5c 6a | ★★ Mosoraski - with Chrissy | 350m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slightly polished in the crux pitch. Some slings and chocks were useful in the wet upper pitches.
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Mon 1st Apr 2013 - Stogaj | ||||||
Pag triangle | ||||||
6a+ | ★ CDI | 19m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 28th Mar 2013 - Paklenica | ||||||
Kukovi ispod Vlake North face | ||||||
6a | ★★ Kikos bohrer - with Chrissi | 100m | ★ Good | |||
In the second pitch, I was fooled by tempting cracks twice, leading you off the bolted line, which has enough hidden holds.
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Wed 27th Mar 2013 - Paklenica | ||||||
Klanci Zighi & Urli | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Mascherino | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Crux at the bulge, and the rest is pure enjoyment.
BEWARE: A 60 m rope barely suffices when standing close to bulge.
|
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Wed 27th Mar 2013 - Paklenica | ||||||
Klanci Veleshit | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ II Viaggio | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Almost harder than Veleshit
|
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6b 6a+ | ★★ Veleshit | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Strenuous enduring small holds
|
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Wed 27th Mar 2013 - Paklenica | ||||||
Klanci Popaj | ||||||
5c | ★ Butter Keks - with Heineken | 18m, 7 | Average | |||
6a+ | ★★ Inox (Inox (Matio)) | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Crux near third to last bolt: small footholds
|
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Tue 6th Nov 2012 - Ballikayalar | ||||||
Left Area Derin Çatlak | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Ekmek Arasi | 10m, 5 | ||||
Tue 6th Nov 2012 - Ballikayalar | ||||||
Right Area Donald Duck | ||||||
4+ | Donald Duck (r1) | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
4+ | ★ Buffy (r2) | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5- | ★ Etek Traşı (r3) | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
4+ | Islak Tırtıl (r4) | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Sun 16th Sep 2012 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Alpin | ||||||
★ Call | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
7 | ★★ Inshallah | 18m, 4 | ||||
bailed out from leading, since the climb is demanding but the bolts somewhat sketchy. Crux after 2. bolt: holding the crimper and and the edge of the drilling hole
|
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VIIc 6+ | ★★ Herrjemine | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
bouldery start, the rest is easier
|
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Sun 16th Sep 2012 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Leistenzauber | ||||||
VIIa 6- | ★ Weg der Frauen - with Jule | 35m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
crux is between last bolt and anchor
can be done in one pith with a 80 m rope
|
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Sat 15th Sep 2012 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Alpin | ||||||
VIIc 7- | ★★ Kif Kif | 9m, 3 | ||||
bouldery start, then easier
|
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VIIa 6- | ★ Jubiläumsweg | 25m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
VI 5 | ★ Lebendgebärender Zahnkarpfen | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
slightly polished
|
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VIIa 6- | ★ Quantensprungschanze (Quantnsprungschanze) | 7m, 3 | ||||
Sat 15th Sep 2012 - Löbejün | ||||||
Aktienbruch Leistenzauber | ||||||
VIIb 6+ | ★★ Kleine Tastatur (Erste Stufe) | 10m, 3 | Average | |||
pay attention when continuing from the terrace, demanding move
|
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VI 6+ | Bohrturm (Zweite Stufe) | 15m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
very short
|
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Mon 23rd Jul 2012 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Marienwand Talseite | ||||||
7- | ★★ Sonny | 8m, 2 | ||||
Very close to adjacent route. Not sure if I did it correctly, grabbed the edge of the crack twice. Without this, this route will be quite hard.
|
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Mon 23rd Jul 2012 - Oberharz | ||||||
Okertal Marienwandgruppe Marienwand Vorturm | ||||||
6+ | ★★★ Brave strangers | 9m, 2 | ||||
For that grade, I doubt that one can stand up on the starting ledge without coming from left. Crimpers.
|
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Tue 10th Apr 2012 - Madonna del Monte | ||||||
Block A | ||||||
5c | ★★★ Spigolo de caprile | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
reachy move past second bolt
|
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5a | ★ Mini | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
nice holds, but too short
|
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Mon 9th Apr 2012 - Fetovaia | ||||||
Secondo Settore | ||||||
7a 6a+ - 7a | ★ Ventosa | 8m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A single friction move close to the anchor - overgraded.
|
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Sun 8th Apr 2012 - Fetovaia | ||||||
Primo Settore | ||||||
6b | ★ Hang Loose | 8m | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Tempest | 8m | ||||
6c | ★★ Hogger Booger | 8m | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Acquarius | 7m | ||||
6a+ | Blue Moon | 6m | Crap | |||
Rusty,weathered out and poorly placed bolts, flaky rock and sandbag grade - better try in toprope
|
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6a | ★★ Reny Super Boy | 7m | ||||
Fri 6th Apr 2012 - Monsummano | ||||||
Paretone | ||||||
5a 6a | ★★ Brucar | 30m | ★ Good | |||
fun holds in the lower two thirds, then smaller holds at lower angle and crispy rock
|