Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Date | |||
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Oceania Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Ōtākou / Otago Wānaka Hospital Flat Tombstone Boulders The Tombstone | |||||||
24 | ★★ Lunge Starter | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 7th Dec 2005 | |||
Climbed third go with hanging draws. Steep jugs lead to a desperate crux right before the anchor
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17 18 | ★ Rusty Pins | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | Wed 7th Dec 2005 | |||
Footwork and balance will lead to the top.
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Oceania Aotearoa / New Zealand Te Waipounamu / The South Island Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson Paynes Ford Carnage Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Responsible Lunges | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th Dec 2005 | |||
Amazing steep climbing, A few falls, could have redpointed but the weather set in and then we left the ford.
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Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Centennial Glen Wave Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Split Wave | 20m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Nov 2005 | |||
Very cool after bailing before the first clip on the onsight attempt it took me one more go to find out that the top was easy and then on the second full go it went! Sweet Roof!!
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25 26 | ★★ Smoked Mussels | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 25th Nov 2005 | |||
Epic hang dogging battle. I got all but one of the moves on lead including the finishing dyno off crimps with a sweet one hand foot free catch. But this route was so hard there was no chance to piece it back togeater.
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21 | ★★ Jaws | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | Fri 25th Nov 2005 | |||
Pumpy!! Pretty straight forward overhung jug pulling!
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Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grey Slab | |||||||
19 | ★ Country Special | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 25th Nov 2005 | |||
Cool and quite cruxy for 19
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Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ War Babies | 12m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Nov 2005 | |||
Very bouldery, hard cool squence - red on 3rd go
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Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Flaming Flamingo | 25m | ★ Good | Fri 25th Nov 2005 | |||
Silly one move wonder took many falls to work out... I needed to be pefectly fresh and instead of deadpointing i cut my feet in a dyno..and blow a tip.. then after a short break stuck the deadpoint. Next red point attempt i fall agin and blow anothe tip.. no more effort.
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20 19 | ★★ Flaming Flamingo pitch 1 | 18m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Nov 2005 | |||
Easy first pitch lead to the one crux move on the extention... Yikes
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23 | ★★★ Hot Flyer | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Nov 2005 | |||
Bumbled the crux seqence but managed to hold on!!
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19 | ★ Original Hot Flyer (Weekend Warrior) | 15m | Average | Wed 23rd Nov 2005 | |||
A bit contrived... The other 19's in the area are better.
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Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Central Tablelands Blue Mountains Blackheath Area Big Top | |||||||
17 18 | ★ Llewdicrous | 25m | Don't Bother | Thu 24th Nov 2005 | |||
AAAAH i hate chimneys!! wow the first bit was easy and the second bit was really thrutchy
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22 | ★★ Hairy Vengeance | 30m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Nov 2005 | |||
Odd climbing to a sweet corner up to a little cave past a scary clip to another overhaning crack thing.. The climbing never ends and always is changing!
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20 | ★ HoaX | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 24th Nov 2005 | |||
Shares the same start as Harry vengence, so not a pure flash but the hard climbing is all new. Pull a short roof to crimpy rails to a slightly dicy finish.
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19 | ★★ JinX | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 24th Nov 2005 | |||
Beyond cool!! Very cool! did lots of laps! Good times..
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23 | ★★ Vertical Smile | 30m | ★ Good | Thu 24th Nov 2005 | |||
Freaking awkward beginning to cool bulge climbing then a big rest. From the ledge enter a long crimpy crux sequenc through like 3 clips to a moderate rest to a second cruxy bit before a bit of dodgy rock and then the anchors. Could have put it all togeater if i had more skin...
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Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Nowra Thompson's Point The Grease Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★ Pulling On the Porcelain | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 28th Nov 2005 | |||
Got it second go! How cool is putting your heel above your head to get some weight off to make a clip!! Now all I have to do is go back and do the enduro extension!!
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Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Nowra Thompson's Point The Pocketed Wall | |||||||
20 21 | ★★ Je Baise Ma Frangine (Je Baise Ma Fraigne) | 12m | ★ Good | Sun 27th Nov 2005 | |||
I blew the flash when i spent too much time feeling up horrible chalked holds at the crux. By the time i found the proper crimp i was wasted... Second go sent it and lots of laps drilled it into memory!
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22 | ★ Meaty Mesmo | 10m | Average | Mon 28th Nov 2005 | |||
Did right after MTHF, screwed up down low and didnt make it to the 3rd bolt, a few rests got me to the top.
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22 | ★★ Murdoch the Horse Fucker | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 28th Nov 2005 | |||
Didnt commit to the cruxy finish. one take and it was done.
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Oceania Australia New South Wales and ACT Illawarra and Shoalhaven Nowra Thompson's Point Descent Gully Walls | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Cowboy Junkies | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 27th Nov 2005 | |||
Wow what a route. Another hangdog epic, where i got all the moves except the show stopper to the 2 finger pocket... Mind boggeling climbing!!
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Oceania Australia Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds Camels Hump Omega Block Area Omega Block | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Boogie 'til You Puke | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Nov 2005 | |||
Great hard start up to directional crimps to a great rest then up barely adequet holds on an arete to a jugy finish
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22 23 | ★★ Bloodline | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 6th Nov 2005 | |||
Quite stout small holds climbing. I had height issues clipping the second bolt so on my clean lead i started with the first two bolts preclipped, the crux lies right after clipping the second bolts so i would be looking at a ground fall from worse holds since i couldnt clip early.
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Oceania Australia Victoria Melbourne and Surrounds The You Yangs Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | |||||||
19 20 | ★ Countdown to Ecstasy | 14m, 3 | ★ Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2005 | |||
Cruxy footwork, being tall helps for 3rd bolt
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Oceania Australia Victoria North East Mount Buffalo The Horn Area The Horn | |||||||
21 20 | ★★★ Peroxide Blonde | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 14th Nov 2005 | |||
For a friends lead attempt i bouldered up to the very high first clip and then lowered. On my lead attempt i left that pre clipped and flashed the rest of the route. Very cool smear liebacking!
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Oceania Australia Victoria North East Mount Buffalo The Horn Area Dreamworld | |||||||
20 | ★★ This Is Not Our Land | 15m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 11th Nov 2005 | |||
Great climbing, though when i did it i could barely feel my fingers.
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Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Buandik Area The Gallery | |||||||
24 | ★★ Two Tribes | 15m | ★ Good | Sat 22nd Oct 2005 | |||
Tricky clibing, semi footwork intensive that leads to VERY hard finish, I had to traverse around it
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23 | ★★ Chain of Fools | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Oct 2005 | |||
Great start to very steep large moves to reachy powerful finish
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23 | ★★★ Weaveworld | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 22nd Oct 2005 | |||
Pumpy climbing -> crimpy travese to rest to AMAZING finish
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Oceania Australia Victoria North West Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Bad Moon Rising Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ All The Way To Eleven | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 15th Oct 2005 | |||
Up rage and ruin and then reach WAY left to crimps! Excellent route!
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Oceania Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||||
24 | ★ It'll Never Fly | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | Sun 30th Oct 2005 | |||
After reaching the arete I backjumped the route since i had no gear. more like 23
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North America United States West Virginia New River Gorge Bridge Area Crags The Rostrum | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Kiss Of The Spider Woman | 12m | ★ Good | Fri 13th May 2005 | |||
Climb past a pin to harder moves
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5.11a | Mortimer | 12m | ★ Good | Fri 13th May 2005 | |||
Climb to a ledge, crappy pin, one more move brings to first bolt, lunge off sloping crimip to positive crimp and continue through small feet to the top
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North America United States West Virginia New River Gorge Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Hard Core Female Thrash | 21m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 19th Aug 2004 | |||
Thought i was climbing something else but THIS was even better
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5.11c | ★★ Hard Core Female Thrash | 21m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Nov 2006 | |||
Lots of rests to compensate for the runouts. Fun climbing with 2 hard parts!!
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5.11d | ★★ Bourbon Sauce | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Nov 2006 | |||
Great Climb!! Tall stick clip because of the exciting opening roof. Then through ok climbing to a very good rest. Clip from a jam, power through some crimpers and you are at the top!
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5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | Average | Thu 19th Aug 2004 | |||
5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | Average | Thu 19th Aug 2004 | |||
Easy climbing leads to Crux after last bolt
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5.10d | Boing | 21m | Average | Thu 19th Aug 2004 | |||
Very soft more like 10b
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5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | ★ Good | Sat 4th Nov 2006 | |||
After missing the right hold and almost falling off before making the 2nd clip, things just got worse. At the crux right crimp I didn't commit and then pumped out. Again higher up i lacked the commitment and took multiple times before finishing the route.
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | Average | Sat 14th May 2005 | |||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 4th Nov 2006 | |||
Fun warmup, Little crimers though, gets morning winter sun!!
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th May 2005 | |||
Fun, pumpy
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5.10d | Stop Pulling My Ear | 20m | Don't Bother | Sat 4th Nov 2006 | |||
Went to clip the 4th bolt, hand was slipping off the sloper since i wasnt on the correct clipping JUG!?! (oops) I then grabbed the draw to avoid a ledge fall and clipped; took then finished it.
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North America United States Washington Central Washington Frenchman Coulee The Feathers South Side | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Dance of the Shaman | 3 | Average | Mon 15th Jul 2002 | |||
5.8 | ★ Don Coyote | 5 | Average | Tue 16th Jul 2002 | |||
5.10a | ★ Medicine Man | 3 | Average | Tue 16th Jul 2002 | |||
5.9 | So Funny I Forgot to Laugh | 5 | ★ Good | Tue 16th Jul 2002 | |||
North America United States Washington Central Washington Frenchman Coulee The Feathers North Side | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Jesus Saves | 17m, 5 | Average | Mon 15th Jul 2002 | |||
5.10b | Blood Blister | 18m, 5 | Average | Mon 15th Jul 2002 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Satan's Wagon | 18m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th Jul 2002 | |||
5.8 | ★ Satan's Little Helper | 16m, 5 | ★ Good | Mon 15th Jul 2002 | |||
North America United States Washington Central Cascade Mountains North Bend Exit 38 Deception Crags Nevermind | |||||||
5.12a | ★ The Goblet | ★ Good | Tue 27th Jun 2006 | ||||
Much harder than culture shock. Dont really know where to go at the end. I finished via the crux to culture shock.
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5.12a | ★★ Culture Shock | ★★★ Classic | Wed 14th Jul 2004 | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Culture Shock | ★★★ Classic | Tue 27th Jun 2006 | ||||
Finally nabbed the red point. Threw a left heel hook to get through the crux.
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5.10b 5.10a/b | Strip Clip | Average | Sat 10th Jul 2004 | ||||
5.10c | ★ Big Mama | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jul 2004 | ||||
5.11b 5.11a/b | ★ Architect Rally | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Jul 2004 | ||||
Quite a dogging effort...
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5.11b 5.11a/b | ★ Architect Rally | ★★ Very Good | Tue 27th Jun 2006 | ||||
One move wonder near the top
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5.10c | ★ Love Bucket | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Jul 2004 | ||||
5.10d 5.10c/d | ★ Easily Amused | 8 | ★ Good | Sat 10th Jul 2004 | |||
5.11c | ★ Hangerville | ★ Good | Tue 20th Jun 2006 | ||||
Quite Soft
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5.10c | Powerless | ★ Good | Tue 20th Jun 2006 | ||||
5.10a | ★ Neverigine | ★ Good | Sat 10th Jul 2004 | ||||
5.11c | Corporeal Completion | Average | Wed 14th Jul 2004 | ||||
5.11b | ★ Negatherion | Average | Wed 14th Jul 2004 | ||||
5.11b | ★ Negatherion | Average | Thu 20th Jul 2006 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Steep Street | ★★ Very Good | Sat 17th Jul 2004 | ||||
North America United States Washington Central Cascade Mountains North Bend Little Si World Wall I | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Devil's Advocate | Average | Fri 23rd Jul 2004 | ||||
5.11c | ★★ Dreaming of a Life of Ease | ★★ Very Good | Fri 23rd Jul 2004 | ||||
5.10b | Jug or Not | Don't Bother | Fri 23rd Jul 2004 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Reptiles and Amphetamines | ★★★ Classic | Fri 23rd Jul 2004 | ||||
5.11b | ★★★ Aborigine | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Aug 2004 | ||||
Great climbing throughout
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5.12a | ★ Bust the Move | ★ Good | Sat 8th May 2004 | ||||
Couldnt but the move and had to bail...
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North America United States Tennessee Obed National Park South Clear Creek The Balcony | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Cheap Seats | 6 | ★ Good | Sun 8th Jan 2006 | |||
Cruzy move on the arete
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North America United States Tennessee Obed National Park South Clear Creek (between Steven King Library and the Balcony) | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tool | 10 | ★ Good | Sun 8th Jan 2006 | |||
After using a stick clip to go up this route to take pictures of undertow i realized it looked sweet and sent it first go!
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5.12a | ★★ Undertow | 11 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jan 2006 | |||
Nailed the big move on my second go and finished up the climb!!
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North America United States Tennessee Obed National Park South Clear Creek Steven King Library | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Pet Semetary | 5 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Jan 2006 | |||
Nalied this and the first 5 Clips of Rage!! 11c!
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North America United States Tennessee Obed National Park South Clear Creek Solstice Cave | |||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Solstice | 8 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 7th Jan 2006 | |||
LONG and very pumpy, made it past the first 4 then fell.
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North America United States Tennessee Obed National Park South Clear Creek Image Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Shadowhawk | 27m, 10 | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jan 2006 | |||
Fun, it keeps going
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5.10a | ★★★ Spawn | 10 | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jan 2006 | |||
Awkard low roof move
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5.11a | ★★ Violator | 7 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Mar 2005 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Prophet | 7 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Jan 2006 | |||
Got the left undercling hit the right intermediate and adjusted the feet and finally hit the good hold!
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5.11b | ★★ Deathblow | 6 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Mar 2005 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Super Final | 5 | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jan 2006 | |||
After a vailent dogging by jamie i had to clean this hard climb, it had significantly smaller holds than the rest of the obed and was still overhaning!
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5.7 | ★ Coco Puffs | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | Tue 15th Mar 2005 | |||
North America United States Pennsylvania Birdsboro Neophyte's Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Dancing Nancy | 6m, 3 | Average | Sun 31st Oct 2004 | |||
5.6 | Neophyte Delight | 6m, 3 | Average | Sun 31st Oct 2004 | |||
North America United States Pennsylvania Birdsboro Main Wall | |||||||
5.10a 5.11a | Fracture | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Sep 2004 | |||
Watch the 2nd Clip
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5.8 | ★ Itching to Climb | 11m, 5 | Average | Thu 2nd Sep 2004 | |||
5.9 | ★ Jingle Bells | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | Thu 2nd Sep 2004 | |||
5.7 | Arocknophobia (New First Climb) | 3 | Crap | Thu 2nd Sep 2004 | |||
North America United States Oregon Smith Rock State Park Christian Brothers The Testament Slab | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Barbecue the Pope | 25m | ★ Good | Fri 11th Jun 2004 | |||
After fighting on the crimps the last move wasnt fun
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North America United States New Hampshire Lakes Region Rumney Waimea | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Techosurfing | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2006 | |||
Hard start and great route. On my 2nd try i fell off good holds near the anchors after getting through both cruxes.... OOPS!
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5.11b | ★★★ Flying Hawaiian | 27m, 9 | ★ Good | Sat 30th Sep 2006 | |||
Hard crux off the ground, awk roof and fun stemming. Too tired to get the redpoint.
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5.10d | ★★ Waimea | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th Sep 2006 | |||
Fun interesting moves through out!!
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North America United States New Hampshire Lakes Region Rumney Bonsai | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ War And Peace | Average | Sat 30th Sep 2006 | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Masterpiece | 18m, 6 | Average | Sat 30th Sep 2006 | |||
5.12b 5.12a | ★★★ Social Outcast | ★★★ Classic | Sat 30th Sep 2006 | ||||
Got the redpoint 2nd go. If i had used the no hands rest the first time i might have flashed it, also the finish beta is interesting. Very Rumney!
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