Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.12a |
★★ Lexamen de rattrapage
1
5.8
109m
2
5.10d
3
5.12a
| 110m | Portneuf | ★★ Very Good | Sat 28th Aug 2021 | |||
Thought I was on something else so I mostly climbed off route. Went around to the left on P1 (5.8). Climbed most of P2 but traversed over to the left before the final moves lowering the grade slightly. Worked on the crux sequence of P3 (BEAUTIFUL!). Aid climbed 10-12m after the crux and freed the rest. Rappelled from the anchor of P3
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5.12a | ★★★ Yankee Clipper | 460m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Tue 26th Nov 2019 | |||
Most pitches are very nice but not incredible. All of the 5.10b cruxes are one to two moves. The 5.12a crux is three bolts of super technical sharp crimps. Hard to onsight. Pitch 14 is worth doing even if you're not doing pitch 15.
Simulclimbed all but the last pitch. Got up in 3h (2h30 to the top of P14) and down in 1h. Double 60m. |
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5.11a |
★★★ The Grand Wall
3
5.10b
5
5.11a
7
5.10b
| 300m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 22nd Jul 2020 | |||
Apron Strings into Grandwall, into bellygood ledge. Took 3 falls on Perry's lieback and a rest on the last hard pitch.
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5.10d |
★★★ Space Boyz
4
5.9
5
5.10b
| 300m | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Nov 2019 | |||
Started late (3h30) after getting down from TNT wall. Figured we'd just get as far as we could. Linked 1-2-3 (a little bit of simul at the end) 4-5, 6. Stopped at the top of pitch 6.
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6a+ |
★★ Pilier du levant (Pilier du levant Linkup Unknown route on the right)
- with
David Gibbs
| 200m, 12 | Ailefroide | ★★★ Classic | Mon 17th Jun 2019 | |||
Thought we were climbing "Riviere Kwai" but followed the wrong line. There is a new bolt line to the right of "Pilier du levant" which confused us.
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5.9 |
★★★ The Squamish Buttress (The Squamish Buttress Linkup the butt light)
7
5.6
linkup the butt light
| 210m | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 5th Aug 2020 | |||
Linked 'Banana Peel' into 'Bommstick Crack' into 'Squamish Buttress' into 'The Butt Light'.
6h up, 1h30 down. Approach shoes all the way. Linked 1+2, 3+4, then did a short scramble pitch to base of butt light (5.9). From there, I ran a long pitch to a tree just below the 5.8 chimney. |
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5.10c |
★★★ L'Odyssée
1
5.4
355m
2
5.4
3
5.7
5
5.8
6
5.10
7
5.9
9
5.7
| 360m | Portneuf | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jul 2021 | |||
Great climb with Dom and Mat. Took 6h round trip. We climbed a few variants by accident.
P1 we climbed up another slab on the right and traversed back over to the anchor. P2 we climbed past the intended anchor into the left variant of P3 P3 we climbed up the slab to downclimb traverse the slab back to the anchor P4 left variant, past the anchor, gear belay in the wider section P5 short pitch to the anchor below the bolted slab variant of P6 P6 horrible slab of doom (took a fall while seconding) P7-8-9 were on track |
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5.7 |
★★★ Angel's Crest (Angel's Crest P1)
| 600m, 7 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 31st Jul 2020 | |||
Climbed the tree start to get to angel crack to free an old cam. Rappelled back down after.
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5.10a | ★★★ Will the Wolf Survive? | 110m, 14 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Thu 14th Nov 2019 | |||
We stretched p2 to the intermediate rap anchor and then linked 3 and 4
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5.9 |
★★★ Snake
1
5.7
220m
2
5.7
6
5.7
| 220m | Squamish | ★★ Very Good | Tue 11th Aug 2020 | |||
Decent climb wandering between other climbs. Route finding involved. The best pitches are the last three. Crux was the last few moves of P4.
It's also on that climb that I leaned SR means standard rack and not single rack. And Squamish SR is a few more cams than a single rack... Made it interesting. |
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5.9 |
★★★ Wet Dreams
| 120m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 25th Sep 2022 | |||
Best route I've climbed on 'le Dôme' so far. First pitch is a stellar 5 star climb in itself. Good rack management is required for this long pitch which offers constant exposure and difficulty. The remainder of the climb offers great climbing interrupted by a short "not so great" section. P2 and P3 can be linked but careful rope drag management is required, as well as being very comfortable at the grade.
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5.8 |
★★★ Hals-und Beinbruch
| 230m | Charlevoix | ★★★ Classic | Wed 22nd Jun 2022 | |||
Retrieved the gear from the accident. Wonderful climbing conditions! Lead it all in 6 pitches taking the original finish (5.4) which is much nicer than the 5.8 variation.
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5.11b |
★ Macaque-Attaque
1
5.11b
10m
2
5.8
45m
| 55m, 5 | Portneuf | ★ Good | Sat 4th Sep 2021 | |||
Still a little drity (we broke a 50cm*50cm*20cm piece off). Pretty airy pitch, nice moves up the overhanging arete. This is a one move wonder with a pretty far reach. I worked the move until I found the way to do it. Lowered and redpointed the pitch. 5'9", +1 ape index.
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5.10 |
★★★ L'Odyssée
1
5.4
355m
2
5.4
3
5.7
4
5.8
5
5.8
6
5.10
7
5.9
| 360m | Portneuf | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Sep 2021 | |||
Took the Macaque-Attaque variation.
|
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5.8 |
Temps de Cure
- with
PAB, Léa
3
5.8
Finished straight up through the bush to avoid soaking wet rock.
4
5.7
A few loose rocks remaining. Great pitch. Long but not much rope drag. | 210m | Charlevoix | Wed 25th Oct 2023 | ||||
5.12a 5.12a/b | ★★★ Delicatessen | 26m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Nov 2019 | |||
5.12a |
★★★ Time Wave Zero
3
5.9
4
5.9
5
5.10a
8
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
11
5.9
12
5.7
13
5.7
14
5.9
17
5.9
18
5.9
21
5.12a
22
5.10a
23
5.0
| 700m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Nov 2019 | |||
Well that was a long climb... Linked 1-2, then simul-climbed until pitch 14 (with a short belay for the 10th pitch traverse). Then linked 15-16, 17-18. And finished it one pitch at time. On the way down we back lead the 23rd pitch. Then 60m simul raps the whole way through.
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7a+ | ★★ Le cri des alpages | Tournoux | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | |||||
5.12a 5.11d | ★★★ Starry Night | 20m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 1st Nov 2019 | |||
Beautiful 3D climbing.
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5.11d | ★★★ Gold Rush | 25m | Red River Gorge | Fri 1st Nov 2019 | ||||
V4 | Motor | 9m | El Potrero Chico | Tue 12th Nov 2019 | ||||
7a | ★ Bouri-Tator | Tournoux | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ Banshee | 30m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 6th Nov 2019 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Onward Through The Fog | 29m, 11 | El Potrero Chico | Fri 22nd Nov 2019 | ||||
5.11b | ★ Delayed Stress Syndrome | 11m, 3 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | |||
Must do.
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5.11b | ★★ Hip To The Jive | 20m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 23rd Oct 2019 | |||
5.11b | Y-Incision | 15m | Red River Gorge | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | ||||
5.11b | ★★★ Random Precision | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 1st Nov 2019 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Apyrexie | 23m, 8 | Mont Baldy **CLOSED, FERMÉ**** | ★★ Very Good | Fri 28th Aug 2020 | |||
Diserves more stars! The opening sequence is not given but very nice. The rest is just cnady!
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5.11b |
★★ Evil Shenanigans
- with
Léa
1
5.9
2
5.11b
Took a while to figure the crux out. Went to the crack on the right but came back and didn't use it for progress since it felt too much like a cheat. | 73m, 11 | El Potrero Chico | Mon 13th Feb 2023 | ||||
5.11b | La Poule | Charlevoix | Wed 14th Jun 2023 | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Porphyria | 18m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Fri 18th Oct 2019 | ||||
Very constant climb.
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5.11a | ★★ Snake Charmer | 20m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Oct 2019 | |||
Long. Beautiful.
|
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5.11- | ★★ The Preacher's Daughter | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 21st Oct 2019 | ||||
Must do. Awesome test piece at the grade!
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5.11a | ★★★ Linear Regression | 26m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Fri 25th Oct 2019 | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Hot Drama Teacher | 27m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Johnny B. Good | 26m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Fri 1st Nov 2019 | ||||
5.11a | ★★ Air-Ride Equipped | 20m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Nov 2019 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Two Pump Chump | 57m, 11 | El Potrero Chico | Fri 15th Nov 2019 | ||||
Linked the two pitches into a long single pitch. Must do!
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5.11a |
★★ Super Nova
1
5.11a
790ft
2
5.8
3
5.6
4
5.6
5
5.9
| 240m | El Potrero Chico | ★ Good | Wed 27th Nov 2019 | |||
Simulclimbed in 1h15. Progress capture device after the 1st pitch. Down in 20 min. Double 60m. Feels like going up a staircase. With 30-35 draws we could've made it up in a single pitch.
|
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5.11a | ★★★ Pleasant Pheasant | 22m, 7 | Squamish | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 31st Jul 2020 | |||
Tricky route finding but beautiful
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6b+ | ★★ Bigoude | 20m | Tournoux | Tue 18th Jun 2019 | ||||
5.10d 5.10d/11a | ★★ Price of Business | 6 | Eardley Escarpment | ★ Good | Mon 1st Jun 2015 | |||
5.10d | ★★★ Centerpiece | Rumney | ★★★ Classic | Thu 10th Oct 2019 | ||||
Very nice climb. More sustained then I thought.
|
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5.10d | ★★★ Peer Pressure | 21m, 7 | Rumney | Fri 11th Oct 2019 | ||||
Intimidating but definitely worth it. Bring good footwork. Next time I'll have to climb it without the rest ledge.
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5.10d | ★ Flight Time | 12m, 5 | Summersville Lake | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Barn Dance | 18m, 6 | Red River Gorge | Sun 27th Oct 2019 | ||||
5.10d | ★★★ Fire and Brimstone | 27m, 10 | Red River Gorge | Mon 4th Nov 2019 | ||||
5.10d | ★★★ Breakfast Burrito | 24m, 10 | Red River Gorge | Mon 4th Nov 2019 | ||||
V3 V2 | ★★★ Devil's Crack | El Potrero Chico | Tue 12th Nov 2019 | |||||
Wonderful footwork required!
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5.10d | ★★ Team Hilti | 33m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | Fri 15th Nov 2019 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Bullet the Blue Car | 15m, 6 | Cheakamus Canyon | ★ Good | Sat 25th Jul 2020 | |||
5.10d | ★ Le Paradoxe des formes | 18m | Charlevoix | ★★ Very Good | Tue 2nd Aug 2022 | |||
Affordable 10+ climb. Multiple crux sections with good rests in between. Well protected. Anchor is on a good (08-2022) bolt and a completely rottent 1/4 inch bolt
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5.10d | ★★ Kooter on Skooters - with Léa | 27m, 14 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Mon 13th Feb 2023 | |||
Guidebook says it's a little easier if you climb around the left of the black streak mid-route. Probably is but it's the most obvious line. The dihedral bit at the end can be avoided by climbing hero jugs on the arete. Great moves.
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5.10d |
★★★ Pitch Black
- with
Léa, Phil Price
1
5.9
2
5.10d
3
5.9
4
5.10b
5
5.10a
6
5.9
| 250m | El Potrero Chico | Wed 15th Feb 2023 | ||||
We pitched out everything. Don't link P3. Maybe link P4+5. We made it to the ground in 3 full length rappels (P6+5, P4+3,P2+1)
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5.10d |
★★★ Black Cat Bone
- with
Lea
3
5.6
lead by
Lea
Easy but very runout. No fall terrain.
4
lead by
Lea
Beware of loose rocks. Mind your rope. Fixed rope was in place (feb 2024)
5
5.9
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Hollow flake balancing on hollow flake. Well bolted considering the rock quality limitations. Use precaution and alpine climbing technique.
6
5.10d
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Technical face climbing that gets harder and harder the more you climb. There is a rest before pulling the roof for the leader, but the second will be exposed. Boulder problem to pull the roof.
7
5.10b
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Short but very nice and well bolted. Technical stemming and a few finger jams.
8
5.10b
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Between a closed dihedral and a flaring chimney. The climbing is not confidence inspiring and the pitch packs a punch.
9
5.9
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
Not as runout as it used to be but very badly bolted. For confident 5.9 leaders. | 270m, 14 | El Potrero Chico | Wed 7th Feb 2024 | ||||
Sandbagged compared to the rest of potrero. Great climbing throughout. Crux pitch is (very) well protected and the roof sequence can be french freed easily. The last pitch is not as runout as it used to be but is very badly bolted. Not for limit leader. Linked P1+2 and P3+4. Most of the anchors are hanging or semi-hanging.
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5.10d |
★★★ Off The Couch
- with
Lea
1
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
2
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
3
lead by
Lea
4
lead by
Lea
5
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
6
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
7
lead by
Noah Boudreau-Richard
| 180m, 13 | El Potrero Chico | Fri 9th Feb 2024 | ||||
The best route we've been on this trip. The last three pitches are mostly a continuous 5.10a face with a few slightly harder moves. Linking any combination will have you salivating in awe of the climbing and swearing at the bolting. Bring runners.
We linked P1+2, P3+4, P5+6. Linked the rappels for P7+6+5 with TWO 70m ropes and P4+3 with ONE 70m rope. |
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5.10d | ★ Grocals - with Lea | El Potrero Chico | Fri 16th Feb 2024 | |||||
Great climbing. Holds are hard to spot. Traverses left near the end and most people tend to climb too high and run out of holds. I high clipped, then used the massive tufa jugs to traverse far left before reaching the anchors.
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6b | ★★ Léviathan | 15m | Mont-Dauphin | Fri 21st Jun 2019 | ||||
5.10c | ★ Tous à table | 6 | Portneuf | ★ Good | Sun 17th Apr 2016 | |||
Going through the arete has a few quite sketchy moves. To avoid the harder moves go left into the dihedral to avoid having to pull the small roof and come back onto the arete using the obvious horizontal crack.
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5.10c | ★ Le mouton noir est de retour | 5 | Portneuf | ★ Good | Sun 17th Apr 2016 | |||
Had to constantly brush against the wall to avoid a cold shower from above. Last move was quite sketchy since the left half was soaking wet. Very nice climb.
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5.10c | ★★ Attache ta tuque | 20m, 7 | Kamouraska | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 21st May 2017 | |||
Very fun climb with moves getting harder as you climb. The hanging anchor makes it very hard to retrieve gear but since this climb is extremely climbed you won't have trouble finding someone to retrieve it for you.
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5.10c | ★★ Go Ballistic | Summersville Lake | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Golden Snow Cone | 17m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Oct 2019 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Road Kill | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | Sat 2nd Nov 2019 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Baked Fresh Daily | 26m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | Mon 18th Nov 2019 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Motarola | 26m, 9 | El Potrero Chico | Fri 22nd Nov 2019 | ||||
5.10c |
★★ Excalibur
2
5.10a
3
5.10a
| 12 | El Potrero Chico | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | ||||
Most pitches are one move wonders.
There's a "sword" at the top
Soloed the first pitch (more like 3rd class with a couple V0 moves at the end). Linked 2-3 and 4-5. 60m rope.
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5.10c |
★★★ Satori
1
5.9
700ft
2
5.10b
5
5.10a
6
5.10c
| 210m, 11 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Mon 25th Nov 2019 | |||
There are many ways to make this climb easier but staying on the face is worth it for a great experience. Got down in 3 raps with double 60m but had to unrope to scramble down the 4th class above the ledge.
|
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5.10b 5.10c | ★★ In the Firing Line | 26m, 3 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Fri 31st Jul 2020 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Cursed Crack | 30m | Squamish | Sun 2nd Aug 2020 | ||||
More interesting than it looks.
|
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5.10c | ★★★ Supervalue | 35m, 4 | Squamish | Mon 3rd Aug 2020 | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ All Black Crotch Rocket | Slesse Creek | ★★★ Classic | Sat 8th Aug 2020 | ||||
Worth it all the way!
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5.10c | ★★★ Safety Dance | 37m, 18 | Saint-Alph | Sat 25th Sep 2021 | ||||
Linked the two pitches. Second one is not as great at creates lowering problems (fine for rappel with a 70m and rope stretch). I'd recommend just doing the first one.
|
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5.10c | ★★★ Le Slip | Charlevoix | ★★★ Classic | Tue 26th Jul 2022 | ||||
Technical crux down low whent fine. MP topo said to go left after the third bolt but it should probably 4th now. Great movement wwith exposure seperated by good rests. Longest climb of the area!
|
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5.10c | ★★ Palm Snake - with Lea | 12 | El Potrero Chico | Sun 4th Feb 2024 | ||||
P1 is a little softer (5.8?) but has some loose rocks in the second half. Linked P2+3 with a 70m. What a mega pitch! P3 is a little easier grade/move wise, but the first few moves are not on positive holds. I even got a bonus pitch in! (read: stuck ropes...)
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5.10b | ★ Étirement | Kamouraska | ★ Good | Sat 20th May 2017 | ||||
5.10b | ★★★ Coeur vaillant | 20m | Montagne d'Argent | ★★★ Classic | Sat 6th Jul 2019 | |||
Very good finger crack. I had 3 pre-placed pros from my partner's previous attempt
|
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5.10b | ★★★ Sortie Côté Surplomb | Val-David | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 1st Sep 2019 | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Grace a Bibi | 15m | Mont-Dauphin | Fri 21st Jun 2019 | ||||
5.10b | ★ Chewy | 12m, 4 | Summersville Lake | Mon 14th Oct 2019 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 15th Oct 2019 | |||
Beautiful climb. Much more comfortable belay if you scramble up the V0 boulder.
|
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5.10b | ★ Aquagenic Urticaria | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Fri 18th Oct 2019 | ||||
Ok warm-up
|
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5.10b | ★★ Recovery Room | 18m, 8 | Red River Gorge | Thu 17th Oct 2019 | ||||
Good Warm-up
|
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5.10b | ★ The King Lives On | 21m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Mon 21st Oct 2019 | ||||
5.10b | ★ Murano | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Mon 21st Oct 2019 | ||||
5.10c 5.10b | ★★★ A Brief History of Climbing | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Mon 21st Oct 2019 | ||||
Beautiful.
|
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5.10a 5.10b | ★★ Oompa | 17m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 23rd Oct 2019 | |||
5.10b | ★★ When Rats Attack | 17m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Mon 28th Oct 2019 | ||||
5.10b | ★★ A.W.O.L. | 15m | Red River Gorge | Tue 5th Nov 2019 | ||||
5.11a |
★★★ Estrellita
1
5.9
2
5.9
5
6
5.5
7
5.6
11
5.10a
12
5.7
| 370m, 12 | El Potrero Chico | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Nov 2019 | |||
Felt shorter than I was expecting... Linked 1-2, 3-4 (11a variant) 5-6-7, 8-9-10 and 11-12. (Doing 8-9 and 10-11-12 would probably have been better.) We weren't racing but just being efficient we got up in 2h51 and down in 31 mins. Great climb with a great view!
|
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5.10b |
★★ Dope Ninja
4
5.6
| 180m | El Potrero Chico | Fri 29th Nov 2019 | ||||
Drag is terrible on pitch 4. 3rd class before pitch 6. It is recommended to rap one of the routes on the south side (we went down Pancho Villa). Be careful of climbers ascending.
|
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5.10b | ★★ Geniside | 25m, 2 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Tue 21st Jul 2020 | |||
Great first half, the second not so much.
|
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5.10b |
★★★ Angel's Crest
2
5.10b
3
5.10b
6
5.5
7
5.10a
10
5.8
12
5.10b
| 600m, 7 | Squamish | ★★★ Classic | Thu 30th Jul 2020 | |||
Most pitches are good but intertwined with forest "pitches".
Took the bolted slab start. 8h ascent. 2h hike off. Partner dropped an approach shoe. |
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5.10b | ★★★ Bob's Your Uncle | 35m | Squamish | Sun 2nd Aug 2020 | ||||
Rope stretcher. Took 2x #3-4
|
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5.10b | ★★ Free and Easy | 10m | Squamish | Wed 12th Aug 2020 | ||||
one tricky move. It's all about the feet!
|
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5.10b |
★★ Cactus Pile
- with
Léa
1
5.9
2
5.10b
3
5.9
| 94m, 10 | El Potrero Chico | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Feb 2023 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Yogi Unchained - with Léa | 11 | El Potrero Chico | Sun 12th Feb 2023 | ||||
Lead it all. Linked P1+2. Full length (70m) rappel from the p3 anchor straight to the ground.
|
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5.10b ~5.10a | ★ Mr P. Mosh - with Léa | 26m, 8 | El Potrero Chico | Sun 12th Feb 2023 | ||||
Got a bonus pitch in on the way back!
|