Nodes in Arapiles

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.

Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.

1. 20m (23) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L.

2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...

Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

The main wall of the Atridae.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Atridae Area

Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.

1. 20m (20) Easy chimney then more steeply straight upwards.

2. 18m (20) 'Steep' crack to ledge. Walk off R to the 'Muldoon' rap anchor, or continue up the wall at the back of the terrace with a little roof at 4m.

Climbing about three metres right of 'Tiresias' is really good fun and should have been only 18 but for one short hard section.

Start: Start as for 'Tantalus'.

Completely redundant by today's standards...but then again it was another era back then, even pre-metric.

Start: Start just R of T.

A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.

Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of Muldoon.

Start: Start 2m R of Tantalus. Descend from DRRB at the top of Muldoon

Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.

1. 15m (24) Boulder past bolt and up to join Surface to Air. Belay to protect the second.

2. 20m (20) Continue up Surface to Air butthen take the wall up right into a groove and on to the jugs.

Muldoon, Curved Air and Fail Safe start at the base of the Atridae and climb the Main Wall.

The other routes are on the neighbouring buttresses- Iphigenia and Clytemnaestra.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Atridae Area

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

1. Up corner then traverse left along ledge with committing move around arete up to belay. Gear belay.

2. Straight up off belay, trending vaguely right through juggy terrain. Up to DRB.

34m rap from double ring bolts above the climb - 70m rope or doubles required. Can be done in two raps using a 60 and the mid-station, or walk right and down the gully.

As for Muldoon for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to use the Fail Safe DRB, otherwise continue up Muldoon to its rap anchors.

Used to be desperate and dangerous with only a manky fixed sling for protection, and first you had to get to it. Recently retroed by the FA so it’s now popular. As for Muldoon for 10m, then climb R arete of cave past 3 RB to lower-off.

Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of Fail Safe.

1. 28m (17) Up Iphigenia past first steep section to rest, go 3m L to flake in the middle of the wall and up this past overhang to small ledge.

2. 12m (18) Step right, up corner, then up line. Watch the rock.

Lots of good stuff on this route. The final tower is intimidating and bold on poor rock, but you can avoid this by stepping left and up to chains. Start as for Clytemnaestra.

1. 30m (17) Up initial chimney then the shallow steep groove on L, over 2 overhangs to ledge.

2. 15m (16) Start on the left, or with some bold moves on the right, to gain the slender tower above, brittle rock, to airy exit.

The slick chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the Clytemnaestra Buttress.

Overhang is a bit brutal but arete is nice. OK in one pitch with care with rope mgt on first, easy section. Start as for Clytemnaestra

1. 20m (16) As for Clytemnaestra Buttress until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.

2. 20m (14) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.

Start as for C.

1. 20m (11) Up C for 20m to the shelf.

2. 22m (11) R then through tricky overhang and onwards.

The area uphill and to the R of Muldoon.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Atridae Area

Start R of Clytemnestra at a little gully heading towards Agamemnon. Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Start between NPS and CitS at the base of the V-slot the trail goes up. No bridging onto the opposite wall! Bad old FH, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up Crows in the Snow.

Start on the L side of Collision Course Wall, at the top of the V-slot the trail takes, beneath a short L curving flake. Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Finish up any other route to get off. Poor rock and gear.

Start just right of the U bolts - use the stick clip! Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26 with fewer bolts and no stick-clip.

Direct finish to Gay Olympics through the roof past another FH on the lip, to loweroffs.

Start 5m L of Agamemnon. L-facing orange flakes 1m L of shrub, to striking large holes under roof. Move 1m left to breach roof at obvious under clings, then up face past old peg on the right, drift left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors (30m).

An excellent birthday present from Glenn to Kevin; the best route on Collision Course wall. Climbs the wall between Collision Course and Female Friends. Take off a star if the bees return. Three bolts and some trad gear.

Either climb the pillar immediately right of Collision Course, or climb the start of Collision Course itself (better) to the horizontal ledge at about 10m.

From the right edge of the ‘holes’ recessed there, reach up to clip the first ring bolt. Straight up past this and the second ring bolt above. Continue up until able to reach right to clip the third bolt (on Female Friends). Up to the anchors (double rings) above Collision Course.

Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF to the 2nd FH then keeps traversing across to CC. Superseded by FF.

An exciting face climb that is very sustained. Start as for WoI, and move left at the FH. Up past 2nd FH then back R to a 3rd FH then loweroffs (30m).

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars. Start as for WoI then traverse the funky holes across the entire wall to the arete. Best to belay here due to drag. Finish easily up the front of buttress beside (or on) Clytemnestra Buttress, or move back R to the GG anchor.

Possibly the best crack at Arapiles. The diagonal elephant's butt crack is a classic of the genre. Start just left of Agamemnon and finish where that route does. Belaying off the rings is not ideal but there are some excellent features to sling.

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.

1. 15m (11) Up the blocky corner to big boulder choke.

2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor (30m).

Start as per Agamemnon, finish last 5m up Electra pinnacle staying on the Northern chimney face. Small pro. Descent off the back or Rap down Agamemnon bolts as Electra chain is an awkward downclimb.

Start up inside the Agamemnon chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall. Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Start just R of M. Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966. The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress. Follow crack till it finishes then step R and up Careful of the rock up higher.

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip. Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

Great sustained climbing with great protection the whole way. Start a few metres right of Electra. Can lower off with 65m rope.

Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground.

Start around R from T. Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.

...is another man's FA! Step across the block from the Necrophiliac anchor. Follow the dodgy rock across then up and over the overhang. Can belay using the Telemachus backup anchor bolt then rap from the Telemachus anchor.

Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m).

Start 1m R of Necrophiliac. The thin crack, careful of the loose block.

What's in a name?

Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

Start 15m R of Necrophiliac. The crack R of a bush.

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Walk up the gully R of the Atridae then back over the top to find a gully behind the Atridae. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

Probably the most popular multi-pitch area at Arapiles and, more importantly, close to camp.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

The pinnacles above and behind the Organ Pipes. The gully is the descent for climbs in the Organ Pipes.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

The SE most pinnacle of the Organ Pipes. The main wall faces S towards the Atridae.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

Reachy.

Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff.

"If you enjoy crumbling sea cliffs, you might feel at home on this" (Mentz-Tempest guide). Climb through moss to a ledge, to stand below the striking grey prow. Some gymnastic moves are required to get started, and if your second is not tall they will struggle to remove the gear you placed out of their reach at this point. Follow the line of pockets up, veering left at the end.

Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole.

Start: Start under the arch.

Up the slick crack, traversing left to join Steel Delinquency. Probably not a good route to choose if your seconder can't jamb, because they'll likely hit the ledge if they come off at the start.

Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.

Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.

Start: Start 2m R of SDV.

Short flake, then up wall past 2 RB and small gear to DRB.

Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS.

Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.

Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.

Trench Rawfare - It'll leave you raw!

Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince.

Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb.

Offwidth Size Dependent!!

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Organ Pipes Area

The little blocks behind Steel Delinquency Pinnacle.

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.

Start: Start R of LS.

R and up at top.

Start: Start R of TFoC.

Flake then short wall.

Start: Start in middle of wall.

Start at the small flake but step L and then up.

Start: Start 2m R of CS.

Straight up the flake.

Start: Start as for V.

The corner.

Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall.

Good mini-route.

Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle.

Start on the L to gain the diagonal.

Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.

The face.

Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.

The flakes.

Start: Start directly opposite CRaCM.

The second pinnacle from L.

The speckled face which may have a fixed wire. Start up around L of FP.

Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds. Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT.

Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak. Start as for FP.

Cops an absolute bagging in Louise's guide. Start just right of Stirling Moss. It's the bolted line, not clear how many bolts it actually has.

The third pinnacle from L.

The chimney between the Finger Prince and Iron Void pinnacles past funny blocks and ancient machine nut.

Start 8m R of Tubby Tuba. Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect.

Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV.

A completely separate route despite the name! Start right of Iron Void and up.

Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular. Start on the uphill side of the Iron Void pinnacle.

Traverse out above The Flashing Blade, using the handholds of that route as footholds!

Up the face with 1 BR. Start as for FB.

The fine line L of the slim tree. Start on small orange face which is below and faces the same direction as the Flashing Blade.

The fourth pinnacle from L.

Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR. Start up L of SO.

BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR. Start in gully L of F.

Heavy duty jams get you started on the flake system on the arete, then move L to guano and up to flake. Start at the L arete of the 4th pinnacle.

Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected. Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of Frenzy.

Start just R of F. The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove.

1. 20m (25) Take the RH crack through bulge, then move L after roof and up flake.

2. 20m (-) Simple crack in the middle of the face.

Start 5m R of WT. The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.

Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.

A link-up of the first part of Bandwagon into the finish of Passionate Tips.