Einträge in Arapiles

The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.

The big cave right of Ghost of Melville is the Nick Cave

Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

A pleasant, low-angled buttress.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'.

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an undercling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors.

Start at crack line two metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'.

Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.

Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

The deep crack.

Start 20m right of Melville's Cave.

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

The least mossy line.

Start: About 3m right of 'Big Dog's Cock'

The crack 6m right of 'The Ghost of Melville', through overhang and up gulch.

From Main Wall follow the track around to the right.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack.

Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully.

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

The crack with a hard start.

Start at the right side of the grey wall.

A pleasant jug-haul arete.

Start: The arete right of the walk-down gully.

The wall between 'Cartridge Arete' and 'Cartridge Chimney'.

The chimney.

Start: Just R of 'Cartridge Arete'.

A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds.

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start 0.5m R of OC.

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

Layback for 5m then step right into crack.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'.

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

The prominent outcrop by the side of the road about 600m south of the camping ground.

A good area for beginners.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

One of the most convenient crags in the country, being about 15m from the road.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue up to the horizontal break at 8m, then head right and up.

Incorrectly labelled as 'Tonic' when first put on The Crag. FA details on this alternate finish for 'Pot Boiler' are unknown.

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue heading right then up gross looking crack.

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Fiddly to protect.

Start 7m left of 'Craddock Crack' and head up left leaning crack before moving back right.

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.

Start: 1m right of 'CC'.

Think this is the front of the little buttress immediately right of 'Craddock Crack', starting as for 'Raiders of The Lost Crack'.

Hard start, then easy climbing to the ledge.

A direct finish continues up the crack above this ledge at about grade 18.

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road.

Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang.

The rightmost deep gully facing the road.

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.

Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: As for 'Deck Games'.

Very appealing rock.

Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).

Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

Good beginner's lead.

Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

Great beginner's route.

Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner. Climbing it direct is around grade 8, but has no protection.

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.

Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of Little Thor.

Tara Sutherland's Jan '98 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 29, followed shortly after by Megan Osborne.

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.

Start: as for 'Problematic'.

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Sit start

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

Follow the wide crack the whole way up.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

Colosseum Wall is the last significant outcrop as you head South (L along the cliff line).

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Colosseum Wall Area

The wall about 60m south of Colosseum Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Colosseum Wall Area