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Description

One of the best pieces of (climbable) rock around.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

The glorious wall at the bottom of solo gully.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
21 ** Shades of Grey Sport 30m

The leftmost route on 'Spoilt Brats Wall'.

Start: Shared start. Dyno off glued jug then head left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 2002

2
24 *** Ritalin Sport 30m

As fo SoG, then straight up. If you ignore the strange bolting and moves low this climb is an absolute gem up high.

FA: S.Bell, 2003

3
24 * Cirrus Maximus Sport 30m

FA: F.Yule, 2001

4
project Project (Frey) Unknown
5
23 M1 ** Sisters of Mercy Aid 30m

Start: Left of SBaGA.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1987

6

Has a 2nd pitch (rarely done)10m.

Start: 'Trad climb' through trees to double ring belay 10 off the ground. -OR- Traverse R from 'Smallpox' to anchors and rap down.

FFA: john smoothy mike law, 1984

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney, 1984

8
23 ** Infant Terror Sport 45m

The next 2 routes share a start with SBaGA. After leaving Spoiled Brats a hard traverse on good but spaced holds lead right to the first belay, continue up and back left to another tricky move right at the top of the wall.

FA: A.Duckworth,P.Quach, 2002

9
20 * Minor Threat Sport 20m

FA: S.Bell,H.Hooper, 2002