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Description

One of the best pieces of (climbable) rock around.

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'.

Approach

The glorious wall at the bottom of solo gully.

© (secretary)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule in the Blueies. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. Generally it's best to leave all this sort of stuff to the local climbers.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 ** Plastic Sturgeon Unknown 45m
2
19 ** Cat's in the Cradle Sport 53m

FA: Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly

3
24 Jugantor Unknown 60m

FA: R Bourne, T Shurmer

4
24 Licking Holes Creek Unknown 60m

FA: R Bourne, A Duckworth

5
23 Lap Lap Land Unknown 20m

FA: R Bourne, G Bradbury

6
21 ** Shades of Grey Sport 30m

The leftmost route on 'Spoilt Brats Wall'.

Start: Shared start. Dyno off glued jug then head left.

FA: J.Smoothy, 2002

7
24 *** Ritalin Sport 30m

As fo SoG, then straight up. If you ignore the strange bolting and moves low this climb is an absolute gem up high.

FA: S.Bell, 2003

8
24 * Cirrus Maximus Sport 30m

FA: F.Yule, 2001

9
project Project (Frey) Unknown
10
23 M1 ** Sisters of Mercy Aid 30m

Start: Left of SBaGA.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1987

11

Has a 2nd pitch (rarely done)10m.

Start: 'Trad climb' through trees to double ring belay 10 off the ground. -OR- Traverse R from 'Smallpox' to anchors and rap down.

FFA: john smoothy mike law, 1984

FA: C.Martin,A.Penney, 1984

12
23 ** Infant Terror Sport 45m

The next 2 routes share a start with SBaGA.

FA: A.Duckworth,P.Quach, 2002

13
20 * Minor Threat Sport 20m

FA: S.Bell,H.Hooper, 2002

15
24 *** 25th Floor Sport 25m

Rebolted 2004. More like 'Arapiles' that the Blue Mtns. Very good sustained climbing in a creepy environment makes this one feel much harder than it really is. 'Excellent' on a hot day and has a viewing gallery on the opposite wall of the chasm.

Start: Short steep corner/flake 5m up the gully. Follow the U-bolts. Supplementary cams (small and medium) are a comfort.

FA: M.Grey, 1981

16

Crack to piton (god knows what condition it is in)! then crack.

Start: Approx. 30m right of F. This makes it the vegetated corner between Plastic Sturgeon and Cats in the Cradle.

FA: G.Wurth,B.Postill, 1969

17

This and the next 2 routes are from the good old days.

Start: Chimney left of Haggis (probably between Master's Eggs and One of the Best).

  1. 27m (9) Scrub to chimney.

  2. 30m (9) Ramps to back of chimney, traverse left, chockstone, then up through hole in roof.

  3. 12m (9) 'Small' slab.

FA: G.Owens,L.Muzzatti,F.Bell, 1967

18

Needs rebolting.

Start: 'Flake' just inside 'Solo Gully'.

FA: M.Grey,J.Smoothy, 1981

19
Project Trad
20

Not too bad but pro is sparse.

Start: ? At the "H" at the bottom of 'Licking Holes Creek'.

FA: P.Jenkins,R.Lassman, 1967