Nodes in Eastern Mt Difficult Range

The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.

The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.

The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.

The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.

The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.

The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.

A major cliffline south of Deep Creek... offering expansive views, sunny cliffs, and water in the creek (Winter-spring). The climbing is interesting and varied... Although some of the rock is soft and sandy, there are quality walls, features and moves to be found. WINTER: Most cliffs (except a few South facing walls) are in the sun all day. SUMMER: Probably best to avoid, but there are a number of cliffs that start seeing the shade from 11am.

A much easier to access cliff. Most of the climbs are on South faces that have shade nearly all day in summer. The climbs tend to be on the side walls of East facing blocks and follow cracks between the strata, most of which are right leaning.

This is the first cliff you reach heading uphill from the creek. It has a number of right leaning lines and two prominent chimney lines. Descend at the left hand side down a steep and fairly unstable hillside. Some abseil anchors would be preferable.

At the LH end of the cliff a R leaning crack/chimney line. Committing pull up into line then up more easily. A BD#3 in a shallow pocket to the L of the line protects the start.

3m R of Republicans two wide cracks start 5m up. Up and L past small orange triangle to foot of cracks. Up these exiting L to finish up narrow buttress between chimneys.

Up the RH branch of the main central chimney.

1m R of RHTC. Up into R leading line, pleasant balancy climbing up this.

5m R of Tories is a wall leading to some deep wide cracks. Pull up onto small ledge, up past 2 FH to deep R leaning crack, up this. Good climbing and protection.

The short chimney towards the RH end of the face, just R of Whippet. Exit L towards top and pull up onto easier ground.

About 50m uphill from Conservative Crag is a small steep orange wall. It has a distinctive white quartz streak towards its LH side. Up blocky groove L of this streak to ledge. Step R onto face and up to below the large protruding block below the overhangs. Exit L. Care needed with rock and protection.

Uphill and L from Conservative Crag about 80m are some more South facing blocks. The LH of the bigger blocks has an obvious deep wide R leading crack towards its LH side. This crack is Suez Crisis. Descent is possible at both ends.

The LH arête of the Suez Crisis block, the route struggles to stay out of the dead tree and is hard to protect.

Uphill and L from Conservative Crag about 80m are some more South facing blocks. The LH of the bigger blocks has an obvious deep wide R leading crack towards its LH side. Hard entry to crack then up to summit block, traverse L beneath this and up short chimney crack.

Face climbing on good rock. 5m R of Suez Crisis is a R leading orange seam. Start up the seam, move L onto a ledge. Up face past 3 FH. Up R of third FH to finish up R leading crack. Easily L and through break to top. Take medium cams for the climbing above and below the bolted section.

Start as for Mithridates. Up, then step R to follow the right wall of the seam to the steeper headwall, up this on fragile jugs finishing up L.

Start at the arête R of Seamless. Up L of the arête, step L at a ledge to the thin juggy cracks, up these then L up arête to finish through break.

Start just R of Disraeli. The crack around the R arête, bridging into the chimney, to ledge. Climb easy corner moving onto the L face to avoid the massive loose looking blocks. Finish up easy break in overhangs.

The next block R of the Suez Crisis block. Start up L arête just R of wide crack/gully separating the two blocks. Up to and up juggy flake to easy angled section, finish up short wide crack to summit. Descend down the North side of the block, possibly roped up.

Just R Bon Mot of is an intermittent R leading crack which is steeper and much better than it looks. Up the crack, good steep moves with some amazing holds and excellent protection [cams to BD4]

Uphill behind the Suez Crisis blocks is a large South facing cliff with two big chimneys lines. Descent is down through the chimney/chasm at the right hand end.

Uphill and behind the Suez Crisis block is a larger cliff, also facing south. At the L had end of this cliff are 2 right leaning crack lines. Up the RH line.

About 30m R of Right Crack is a deep chimney [the R hand of 2 chimneys on this cliff]. Climb the overhung stepped corner on the L side of this chimney.

From behind the Pickett’s Charge block head uphill and L 80m to a pinnacle with a L curving crack. Up the steep juggy crack exiting L.

The 3 main tiers are the main attraction, and are stacked on top of each other; with convenient ramps linking the 3. The first tier is slabby, the 2nd orange and overhanging, and the 3rd is vertical, with some nice corners and sandy aretes.

The following climbs are on the lower tier - where the track meets the cliff. Described L to R.

Up weakness just L of JAS, then delicate traverse R across slab and up crack above (direct might be possible if not seeping).

Nice corner line, with a thin start, and a piton! You can top out, or traverse R at the top to the loweroff on Beestburgers.

Line of FH's up thin slab just R of JAS. Full value climbing.

Line just R of Beestburgers. Easily up into corner, then up to slightly runout wall climbing (some thin wires in between the FH's).

Main crack in centre of wall, just R of Beestburgers. Thin start and a strenuous move leads to enjoyable climbing. Trend L at the top, finishing at Anchor under roof.

Nice slab/wall climb. Over steep start, then balance onto slab and across to FH. Up corner, then up the line until another FH leads you into the top corner. Once you gain the arete it's a bit sandy to finish. Rap anchor is 35m from the ground, a 60m rope may not quite make it.

Direct start to stainless courage from the cave / overhang. Straight up to top corner, then as for SC. All trad.

About 60m R of cave (and 40m short of the waterfall) is a recessed corner-line.

1. 25m 19. Climb corner until it blanks out, and a committing move to the arete brings easier climbing to belay.

2. 20m 21. Up to Roof, then R into line and up. It's nice to finish by stepping L at the top across the slab.

Protection is adequate, although be careful on the swing to the arete. Small wires and cams, although a #3 is very handy on the first pitch.

Attractive corner / flake line about 10m L of the main waterfall. Rap from block at 25m (sling), or continue to the top.

Steep slightly overhang wall in a great position.

Fun steep overhanging wall, prob a little soft for the grade. At the top of the turret, make a move L then back R under the roof. Spicy traversing finish.

Grampians wall climbing at it's best with distinct sections of increasingly sustained and technical climbing. Start at the corner 3m L of Forty is the new 23. Small gear required for the initial corner, and beware the top FH is very difficult to clip, add a long draw.

A link-up, but with fantastic and sustained climbing the whole way; taking in the best parts of both routes. Head up the project, then where the project goes L, bust R to Arete (good wires) to finish up 'Forty is the New 23'. Wires and small-med cams.

A good line, and a slightly more enjoyable way to go to get to the final crack of Lost on Migration. Start just down and L of '40 is the new 23', up L into corner, then over bulge to a rest (and a high wire on the L), now traverse R and up into LOM.

Great climbing up the leaning shallow corner; which slowely increases with difficulty. Gain the line via large hole (thread), great moves, with gear much better than it looks after you get past the start. Finish at fixed anchor / lower-off.

Nice climbing up snaking line. About 5m R of '40 is the new 23'. Take the L line at first overlap, up the corner a few moves, then carefully traverse L onto small ledge and up widening crack above.

Easily accessed from the RH end of the Middle Tier. Can also be easily approached from the Briggs Bluff walking trail if you happen to be up there. Follow the creek down and it's the first main cliff-line on the R

Arching crack 10m L oft 'Jungle Drums Talk'. Thin crack to good stance half way up. Shake out, take a deep breath and follow the overhanging crack to the top.

Obvious, smooth, blimp-like corner on the upper tier, about 100m south of the creek.

To the R end of the upper tier is a steep offwidth in the corner... Luckily this climb takes the arete on the R (starting just R of it).

The following climbs are described here, but are on different cliffs around the other side of the rockfall. You can approach NGGN from above (first gully N of the main creek), or by scrambling around R of rockfall (be careful, but it's not as bad as it looks if you stay back from the edge).

Nice corner with good gear, just beware of a few loose blocks at the start and finish. Starts approx 40m N (RHS) of rockfall, at slabby corner.

The next two routes are about a kilometre from No Gnus is Good Gnus. From the track junction above Wildebeest, follow the main track NW for 500m to an orange stone fireplace. Scrub bash north down into a gully then down the gully to the top of the cliff (10 min from track). The climbing is on the portion of the cliff to your right (facing out), and the best descent is at the far end. Cliff faces NW.

Start 5m right of the cave nearest the left end of the cliff (cairn). Up face for 12m to where it blanks out. Move left past loose looking flake, then up seam.

About 150m right of Détente and just right of a chimney corner is a thin left facing dihedral corner. Up this and straight through the bulge. (James lowered off half way up leaving the rope on the route, and Chris lead through).

This is a continuation of the Lower Tier - on the RHS of the waterfall, and has a few challenging climbs on grey stone of varying quality. The obvious rockfall is above!

WARNING: Beware of the massive rockfall on the top of much of this cliff as it is extremely loose with much scree and loose rock on top. We didn't witnessed anything come down on our 5 days there, but esp after rain, you never know.

Rather mossy adventure wall climb that is quite an outing. Start about 20m R of the waterfall behind boulder. Up shallow corner seams (committing). R at rooflet then trend back L above, heading for the final corner. Guarding the corner is an enormous, hollow sounding block which can be avoided (but appears attached). Launch into final corner (crux) and trend up final juggy wall to belay below final terrace. Take very small wires to a size 3 Camelot.

The following 3 routes are located on a smooth S facing wall at the far RH end of the rock-scree. They finish at a rap station that is at least 32m from the ground. You can only just get down with a 60m rope - beware.

Fully engaging wall climb the whole way. Left line of the wall. Gear to size 1 cams.

A bouldery start (FH) leads into more moderate climbing, up the crack. Hard moves where the crack bends slightly L, then R at the horizontal and up to FH, where final hard reachy moves lead to slopey ledge. Bonus points for finishing direct up crack, without going into the corner.

Start on the R at the overhanging arete with FH. Pull hard to gain the line, then up to fixed thread, traverse up and R around the nose, then trend forever up juggy arete until you reach the ledge.

A compact grey and orange wall about 200m South of the Main / Middle Tier. Hosts a few good climbs, with room for more. Gets shade from around 1pm.

Start as for Grey Mouse Lemur at the crack. Where it goes R, head L past a FH and up into next crack. Definitely a harder finish, but shares the same crux start.

'Grey Mouse Lemur is the smallest primate which can do a pull-up'. Stretch for good starting holds at the thin crack which breaks through the overhang on the LHS. Channel your inner Lemur, pull up, then move slightly R and finish up wall. Nice climbing.

Takes the 3 FH up nice compact wall in the centre of the crag - traverse in from the R, after you grapple with the bulgy start. An easier variant is to ignore the bolts, and climb the wide crack direct. Finishes at Rap Anchor.

Great sustained climbing. Start as for PM, then up thin crack until you can make a few moves L, then straight up final pumpy crack to the top.

Takes the Turret-like line with 3 spaced bolts on the LH side of the R wall. Start at short crack, then head L over roof. Take a small rack, saving a #2 cam for after the 2nd bolt.

A fantastic sequence of tenuous moves up central waterstreak R of Wilderpeople. Tricky to get gear in for the traverse R into the line (could probably do with another bolt). At the top, head left up headwall to lower-off, or R and up Arete.

The Greater Gariwerd Landscape Management Plan, Map 4C, shows that climbing is currently permitted (Nov 2022) on the following crags: Syria, Lebanon (including Hezbollah), Pine Wall and Lunar Walls.

The status of the other crags in this area, including one of the best ones between the permitted climbing areas of Lebanon and Pine Wall, i.e. The Promised Land, is unclear.

Climb up the right side of Split Pinnacle through a bulge, then move left around to the front and up to a ledge. Continue up to the diagonal break that goes across the ceiling, head along this and onto the face, then move hastily to the top.

This starts on the right-hand side of Split Pinnacle.

1. 20m Climb up the steep wall, then move left at the break in the ceiling and head around onto the arete, then go up to a stance below the roofs.

2. 15m Traverse to the left over a flake to a chimney through the roof, then climb this.

Three lines lead through the lower roof on the front of Split Pinnacle. This route takes the right hand one.

1. 20m 15. Up the crack and its right wall around the roof, then up to belay as for The Rush Variant.

2. 15m 10. Traverse left over the flake to finish up the chimney.

This climb is on the left-hand side of the outcrop. Climb up to the ledge, then traverse right under a block and climb the chimney.

Start 4m right of 'Lou-Ellen the Great'. Up onto ramp then up the wall above, just right of the tree. Slightly contrived to avoid the scrub off right.

Walk left for 40m below the broken crag which continues from the left edge of the main pinnacle, to a right-facing corner with large boulder at base, just right of prominent overhangs. From the top of boulder, get into corner and climb it.

Just left of the roofs; up the crack system and then finish up right

10m further left, just before the cliff breaks down, there is a vertical crack and right-trending crack sharing a start. Follow the vertical crack.

This is the cliff to the right (north) of Heatherlie Heights. It has tall and imposing lines, and a number of inspiring routes, but the effort required to access the cliff will deter many people.

This is the black left-facing corner at the left end of the worthwhile area of the cliff. Climb past the steep start and finish up jugs to abseil from a tree.

About 1m right of The Silent Miaow is a thin crack with a steep start. Climb this, then head up the easy line on the right arete of The Silent Miaow. Finish up some jugs to the abseil tree above.

Climb the major black right-facing corner 3m right of The Silent Miaow. Head up to the roof, exit dramatically up left, then up easily. Head left to the abseil tree above The Silent Miaow.

Start at the major line 13m right of Farewell Freddie and 10m left of Easy Options. Be careful with the rock. Head up the line to the ledge, then climb up more steeply in the same line. Go up easily until you can traverse horizontally left to the tree above The Silent Miaow.

This is the major line 4m right of Going Over To Susan's House and 4m left of The Song Of The Lamb.

1. 40m (Crux) Easily climb up to the overhanging rock, then head up and left to the foot of the crack in the steepest section. Climb up this and the line above to a body-chimney then step left to a ledge.

2. 30m Move left to the next line, climb up for 10m, then head over to an abseil tree on the left.

4m right of A Senior's Moment and 2m left of Easy Options is a major line on lichenous rock. Take one each of a Camelot #4 and #5.

1. 20m (Crux) Head up the thin crack until it becomes steeper. Move right and up the seam to a distinctive off-width crack that goes through the steepest area. Belay at a small stance 5m higher.

2. 12m Continue up the line to a small stance in the black right-facing corner.

3. 25m Head up the corner on the right for 4m, then up its right arete to a ledge. Move 2m right, then up the arete.

28 metres left of The Silent Miaow, and left of the centre of the cliff are some steeper, less broken walls before some overhangs. There are a couple of boulders leaning against the right side of the face. Climb up the left side of the boulders to continue up the right-leaning hanging corner line to a ledge on the right. Abseil from a small tree.

This is another major line, 6m right of Easy Options and has a cairn at its base.

1. 25m (Crux) Climb the difficult-to-protect right-facing corner, then continue up the major crack above to the ledge on top of Easy Options.

2. 25m Above are two lines. Climb the left one, which has great rock. When it finishes, head straight up the slabby face.

5m right of Buckley's Brigade is a major crack with a cairn at its base.

1. 25m (Crux) climb the crack to the ledge where Easy Options finishes.

2. 25m Head up right on the black wall to a line. Follow this, moving right past the final overhang.

This has lovely climbing, and is easier than it looks. Start at the small pinnacle immediately right of The Girl Of My Dreams.

1. 25m (Crux) Climb up the small pinnacle and crack above it to a ledge at 5m. Move 2m left to a right-slanting ramp and climb it to the ceiling. Pull up into the bottomless black chimney, then head right to avoid the next overhang. Climb up the short slab to the ledge.

2. 25m Move 2m left and continue as for The Girl Of My Dreams.

This is the huge line 25m right of Isis and 5m left of Dream On.

1. 30m Climb up to the foot of the chimney, then head up the line to a small ledge on the right, below the overhangs.

2. 25m Climb the wall immediately right of the line, then step up left to the first cave. Climb the overhang to a second cave, then follow the line through a second overhang. Finish at the abseil tree above Dream On.

This is another mega line that starts about 30m right of The Girl Of My Dreams and about 15m left of the cave at the right end of the cliff. It has a cairn at the base.

1. 30m (Crux) Climb the line with a small eucalypt at 3m. Head up to a distinctive black and yellow overhang at 25m and belay on the ledge just above.

2. 20m Climb the bulge and continue up the line.

Exact details are unknown. It is approximately 5m right of Dream On, and 10m left of The Last Dash. It may go up or close to the chimney. The first ascent would have been before 07 June 2008.

Climb the toe of the buttress 10m right of Audax. Climb past the the left side of the cave to join the last section of Audax.

On the right side of the cliff, to the right of a cave low down, is a short right-facing orange corner below some steepenings. Climb the right side of the corner and then step left below the steepenings. Head up and left to finish up the wall above.

Start as for Old Tech, then continue up the crack on the right edge of the buttress. Abseil from a tree at the top.

There is a cultural Values (CV15) site on the way up to these cliffs, although they are quite separate. CV15 appears to co-incide with the actual Heatherly Quarry - where stone was quarried (by Europeans) for some famous buildings in Melbourne, and this quarry is on the Vic Heritage Register.

Climb the black streak just left of Straight Arm Overhang, and head pretty much straight up the wall above.

Near the centre of the cliff is a large orange scoop/overhang. Climb the weakness through this overhang, then up to the ledge. Head right, then up to abseil from a tree.

7m right of Straight Arm Overhang is a large chossy corner that leads to a recessed orange patch of rock. Climb the wall just left of the corner until at the same level as the orange rock, then move right and climb the corner at the left end of the orange rock.

Good climbing on both pitches. Start at the toe of the black slab about 15m right of Blue Sky Mining.

1. 30m Up slab and crack in orange overhang to bushy ledge.

2. 25m Diagonally left up easy slab to steep crack in right arête of prominent corner at t op of cliff; up crack.

Approximately 15m right of Blue Sky Mining is a black slab.

1. 30m Climb the slab and crack in the orange overhang. Belay on an appropriate ledge.

2. 25m On the right side of the grey wall is a shallow corner. Climb this to a ledge then step right and continue up the wall above.

Good climbing on both pitches.

1. Up line 2.5 m left of Freestone, passing the first loose block on left arête and bridging around the second one. Swing around right arête just below overhang at top of shallow chimney. Go up right across Freestone and step right around arête to small stance at foot of corner.

2. 20m Attractive seam leading up right to top of Together Alone.

Approximately 30m right and uphill of Blue Sky Mining is a small orange corner with a thin pillar in it. Climb this to a bulge. Head left and then up the slab and pillar above. Follow the ramp right to a large ledge.

20m up right of Freestone is a black wall with an orange steak in the middle. Climb the right side of the wall until you can traverse left past the top of the orange streak to the point where the angle relents, then head up.