- Height: 52m
- Bolts: 7
- Ascents: 24
- Description:© (secretary)
Brittle when wet
Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many 'Taipan' 26s, but easier than 'Sirocco' so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams.
Start: Start on the first belay ledge of 'Sirocco'. Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006. An independent start has also been done off the ledge, its protected by tiny trad and, instead of sharing the first few metres of Sirocco p2 off the L end of the ledge, it goes up and a bit left from the middle of the ledge to the 1st bolt of Father O.
First Ascent: Simon Mentz, 1991
Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|26||The North Grampians Update|
|26||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|26||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|26 ***||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 82%
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