Routes in South West

Reach large jugs and either statically or dynamically reach crack system. Take a bolt plate to protect the top section.

A sneaky and completely independent line between Slapping the Fat and Gutted on the Fat Chance Wall. Hard bouldery moves off the deck, up the front of the large blocks that form the corner of Gutted. From the ledge straight up and over the overlaps, avoiding the temptation to drift right or left onto the easier moves of Slapping the Fat or Gutted.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wilyabrup-main-area/

Same route as one for the road. But when you get to the overhang escape off to the right to the ledge.

Start from the platform and climb up the major crag of the wall. The crux is at the roof with good gear and great holds. Build the anchor over the big boulder with enough rope or some cams, nuts or hexes under the two boulders on top with you sitting snug between them.

Climb the line of bolts left of One for the Road.

Start as for Thunder Thighs / Sinuosity for 5m. Then traverse left 5m in large horizontal break, clipping second bolt of Dolphin Smiles. Finish up last 3 bolts of Fishing with Dynamite.

Start 2m right of Dolphin Smiles, up and right using the corner system. From the shelf and 2m left of Sinuosity head straight up the wall using flakes and then further up horizontal pocket, joining Sinuosity to finish (Krish Seewraj, Andrew Malone 27/03/11).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-willyabrup/

After the 3rd bolt, head right towards the darker rock and crack.

Start 2m L of Dolphin Smiles and follow 6 RBs to the top. Slightly overhanging, pumpy and interesting all the way. A #0.5 Camalot is optional between first and second bolt with the other option being a guaranteed ground fall. Be warned, this in not a sports route. Easy to mistake for Golden Buttress if using old guidebook.

Discussion around bolting and local ethics: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-willyabrup/

Direct version goes straight up below first bolt. Medium nuts and cams required for protection.

Bouldery start from the roof to join Glory then continue up arete.

See SW Rock (2016)

Up the wall left of Malaria (as for Dunlop Special Alternate Start in SW Guide), trend right to the middle of the wall and then up the bulging headwall on pockets (large cams needed).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/possible-new-routes-at-willys/

Start as for Hoopsnake, trend up and right passing a large flake until forced to join the arête.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/possible-new-routes-at-willys/

Start from gully right of Stainless Steel and step left to a bolt. Continue up headwall past a second bolt.

Start as Stainless Steel, but head right past bolt and up right side of ramp.

Follow right trending crack with bomber gear placements to below first bolt. Delicate face climbing past three carrot bolts (need hangers - bolt heads are just a fraction larger than usual so try harder before giving up) before arriving at the roof. Follow crack up roof to finishing jugs. Important to place more pro than usual early on (before 1st bolt) because the distance to the ground reduces as you climb right trending crack before heading up.

Start as Heavy Metal, but at crux, trend right to enter sustained crux section and big run out towards top.

Start in crack as for Stainless Steel. Place cam and move directly up to FH. Crux is reaching 4th FH. Exit with big moves over roof and top out.

Start as Sirius, but when Ulster Madness is reached on large ledge, head right up ramps to horizontal break. Has almost no protection.

P1: Climb diagonal crack and horizontal break to the large ledge. Belay in corner. P2: Follow corner up into easy arête.

The line left of Simply Suicide with a mix of ring bolts and fixed hangers. Take some gear for the horizontal breaks in the middle and near the top.

P1: Right of Delving Devoids is a thin seam with a distinctive bolt (needs replacing). Go straight up to ledge. P2: Continue straight up wall above

Entails some sinister moves P1 Stick clip bolt on lip of overhang and launch leftwards to a small corner and continue up to first belay of Sirius. P2: Continue as for Sirius, up easy arête.

Alternate finish for Delving Devoids. Continue straight up wall from belay with marginal protection.

Up corner roof section. Really hard start leads to enjoyable climbing up corner. Can be done in two pitches to minimise rope drag. Grade has gone up to 21 after a hold broke.

Start the climb the same as for Mobjob, and once through the first roof traverse diagonally left and upward staying to the left of both ring bolts. Pull through the small roof on the arete 5 metres to the left of blowjob to top out. The climb is mixed with two bolts and the rest natural pro.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/willyabrup-new-route/

"Fantastic climbing. A cairn can be used to reach first holds, then up corner through overhangs and roofs to the top."

Ends up following the same top half as "Hand Job" however traversing left below the 2nd roof under the bolt.

The chimney/crack corner that turns into a pleasant face climb up the right wall. Start by following the crack that takes big gear and has a terrible lumpy and soft limestone covering (you can use smaller gear in places, just look hard and be creative). Use the right face to finish (avoiding the staircase gully to the left).

Up prominent overhang roof on deceptively 'good' holds. Continue over roof on easy finish.

@1min 30sec https://youtu.be/MSN7b6HeLA4

Just left of K.G.B. there is an overhanging jamming crack. Jam this.

Old climb, very little traffic, runout in areas. Climb face of large boulder leaning on the face. Start is a little runout but you can find protection after 2m. On the top of the boulder you step onto the face and traverse right under a small roof across to the arete then up to finish. There are loose blocks on the upper ledges.on top.

Arete with carrots bolts just left of the leaning block. Finish up Welcome to Arapiles

Follow 'High Reel' to the terrace before the roof (possible belay), then go up the face on the right rather than up the loose slab. Very short lived but good moves on good rock - the hardest part is placing protection to avoid hitting the ledge.

A few metres before the track turns right and goes up, there’s a left trending crack - start here. Aim for the left side of the 2 rectangular blocks then straight up to below the roof, right to the top of the block then up a short crack. Sparse pro options on top for anchor so either sling a boulder way back from the edge or, if you want to see your second, make it a 2 pitch climb at the top of the second rectangular block.

Sit start. Up with jugs trending right to top out around the corner.

Sit start. Up the obvious seam. Tall

Cruxy sit start on crimps. Out to good sidepull undercling then up to the obvious transverse crack on the massive east face, to join the highball seam of 'A Million Ways To Die'.

Sit start.Corner arete on the left of the giant face.

Rad little warm up. Sit start down in the hole and straight up the face using good edges and jugs.

Sit start on the left with good flake. Traverse rightwards along the obvious feature to top out on the right.

Stand start on undercling on the left and cross up to good edge and out right to a jugged up topout. https://vimeo.com/156231039

Hard sit start on slopey rail into the left variant.

Sit start with left hand on the slopey rail, right hand on the crimpy undercling. Gain the left hand triangle crimp and trend right to the pinch-block. Finish with a committing dyno, then top out as per other variants. Eliminates the jugs to the right of the thin crack next to the right start hold. https://vimeo.com/156231039

Sit start as per the Right Variant (and avoids jugs out right). Go directly up with left hand to a small crimp with thumb-catch, then bump in with right hand to a higher under-cling. With awkward feet, bump left hand up to decent (but far-away) jug. Finish as per other variants.

Sit start with slopey ripples and low foot. Up to jugs and an easy top. Fun.

Sit.

Sit.

Sit.

Sit start with left hand on flat hold and right hand on the arete. Tricky moves up the arete. Cool

Stand start on the right and follow the blocky features on the lip of the roof. Compress your way to a big cut loose move near the end and transition to the face, do a couple easier moves up and rightish to gain the flat finishing jug up high.

A drop off and a tad contrived - but awesome powerful movement on good holds.

Sit start low with good holds. Up through the face with crimp and slopey sidepull into an east top.

Start on the left of the juggy rail. Up to slopey hold and then big move to the seam. Andy Probably done it...

Sit start low on the obvious jugs on the left and go right for a highball finish on the impressive prow. https://youtu.be/E-c8pnD_v3c

Sit start with right hand in good slot. Powerful move to gain the blocky jugs and quest up the face to topout.

Andy may have done it on a low swell day?

Sit start at the bottom of the obvious crack in the roof and up. The holds run out and force a massive throw to good holds near the lip of the roof.

Fun easy traverse. Shares top out with ‘The Long Way Around”