Voies dans South West

Follow the hollow flake up and left. Note that a large section of the flake has fallen off.

Lord Of The Flies 12m 23** Start behind the fence left of a thin tree at the right end of the chossy wall between Left Slab and Left Wall. Whilst the rock all around looks terrible, this route features some good moves on solid rock with a tricky crux sequence at the top (4RB to DBB). Jonas Hollingworth – Jan 14

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/two-new-routes-at-welly-dam/

See SW Rock

Climb past 4 fixed hangers to DBB

No lower-offs (can traverse left to use those on WTE).

The first bolt is desperate to clip and at an ankle snapping height. The route has been reported as a grade 18 in the CAWA guide. This climb is not an 18, and possibly even harder than 20. Be cautious - it is a great route to top-rope.

Victim Of Authority 18m 19* The line right of ‘Raging Torent’ in the centre of Main Wall which trends right at the third bolt. A nice route finding mission with a few committing moves (5RB to DBB). Jonas Hollingworth – Jan 14

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/two-new-routes-at-welly-dam/

Hard for the grade.

Awesome sustained climbing. Nice crimps requiring balance and technique.

Climb as for Gumby Goes Bolting, after 3rd clip continue left around the bulge.

Has a left and a right variant. Right variant climbs at 22

Long runout after 3rd bolt.

Uses the same bolts as Old School. Stay left of the bolts

Uses the same bolts as B Young. Stay right of the bolts

Sit start - left hand side pull, right hand undercling. Slap your way along the sloper rail to the top. Powerful yet subtle. https://vimeo.com/136599365

Sit start matched very low on the obvious lower flake. Up and left using sharp edges - powerful and shouldery. https://vimeo.com/136599365

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1aAtqdk81w

Probably already done by Andy. Name?

Sit start on jugs. Up the obvious line of holds with the arete into a scary top out onto the slab.

Sit start and straight up.

Sit start low and up with jugs. Fun

Sit start left hand fingerlock and right hand low in the obvious hold. Up to the slopey lip and top out.

Sit start on good jugs and up.

Sit start low with left hand in the slot and right hand on the low sloper below it. Up though juggy holds into an easy finish. Stellar warm up.

Start as 'The Graduate' but traverse left on good holds into a slopey top.

Trad then 3 bolts. Hard move getting onto the face

Crack to the right of WTT

Smear to Glory 15m 15 The crack a meter left of the start of Welcome to Tsaro leads to a cavelet, exit this on the right and layback in style before finishing up the arête. Krish Seewraj, Craig Johnson 03/06/18

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/castle-rock/

Trad top

2 carrot bolts

Up the flakes and onto the arete. Going more or less direct at the start will give a different grade feel

Start up the groove 2m L of the bottom bolt on Stepping Up. Boulder up groove, using edges and flakes to left, to reach a bomber #1 camalot placement at 5m, then two more smaller cam placements as the groove continues to the top. Sling spike for top belay. Get the new SW Guide for general directions. Above climb is just L of route #7 on p.41. Description courtesy of Ross Weiter

2 CB

No FA, bolted but not climbed. Est gr. 29.

Right of Cranking the Plastic are a few chimneys and cracks. None are very hard and they are all fairly short. Likewise the West face holds a number of micro routes useful for warm ups and/or beginner climbers.

Amazing problem starting on large rail and work your way up the dong

(Not sure if this has been done before? But if not its worthy of a claim..) Enter the Chasm and find the slight left tending crack for squat start. Move left to good match, then directly up to top out. Step back if in trouble!

squat start on low left leaning crack, then follow obvious line up and right to top. (dunno if this has previously been climbed? let me know if so )

Start as for 'Finding Max', but eliminate the holds out right and instead take the line directly up the seam. Nails hard.

SDS on good hold, long move up to gain the crimp-plate. Climb the left hand side of the boulder with awesome stretched out compression moves. Stick left for the send. Easier the taller you are.

Andy

Robin Y

Start as 'Finding Max', but once you gain the right hand in the sharp jug up high drop down to finish as 'Lock It Down' instead of following the crack on the left. https://youtu.be/OJLEjkm5UdI

Start as ‘Lock It Down’ then throw out left from the jug and finish as for ‘Finding Max’. Cool.

SDS on low holds and head straight up the middle of the boulder with fun compression sequence into thin crux on two flat crimps up high. Using the holds at the start of Kimbo will earn you a downgrade.

Tyrone C Julz

SDS on the bottom right hand corner of the boulder, up the right and into the scoop - committing top out.

Mitch W

Sit start and up the slab.

Scoot all the way down to the massive hueco, Start with kneebar and hands on the hueco, up to the jug then top out on crimps. First move is hard, no room for a pad.

Sit start on the right perched on the raised rock. Traverse left on the jugs...you might as well go all the way left then top out.

Sit start, then straight up.

Sit start, then up the crack.

Start as 'The Obvious' but exit straight up.

start on low SDS dodgy flake. (Don't break this!) pop up to gain the diagonal feature and follow up right to top out.

Sit start with left heel hook on large flake, and right hand on undercling. Hard first move to nasty left hand sloper. Top out as per 'Drop it Like it's Hot'.

5:23 at Robin Y

Classic lowball. Sit start with good slot right down low as for 'Heuco at Home'. Climb up, and trend left (avoid good jugs of 'Heuco at Home'). Establish on small right-hand crimp, followed by a big drop knee move to reach the far-away left hand crimp. Hold the tension and try top out!

Robin Y

Sit start low on the slot down low (as low as you can go), climb up through crimps to Hueco flake and top out on The Bear. Eliminating the flake will get you a V7

A contrived eliminate with one of the sweetest sequences ever. Really awesome if done with the mindset of climbing the eliminate. Sit start left hand on the far left edge, right hand in the horizontal slot near the massive starting rail of The Bear. Trend left using the smaller side-pulls and powerful right heel hooks on the jugs of The Bear /Variant. Flows like sick.

Andy Robin Y

Start as 'The Sweetest Contrivances' then traverse left through the overhang to link into 'Drop It Like It's Hot'. Pumpy and hard. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=126

Great eliminate problem starting jugs, up left to top, avoiding good holds up to the right.

Andy

SDS on good jugs, climb up to good seam then traverse left to crux and juggy top out.

Mitch W

Sit start on flat jug. Up and right to join 'Dunsborough Breakery'

Continue left from Dunsborough Breakery into The Bear.

Follow crack up and top

Start really low feet and Microcrimps on the face (Sharp left and slopeyish right) Bust up right to the good crimp rail and prepare for the cut loose. Traverse left on crimps. Hard!

SDS Letterbox hold, (using top right pinch of letterbox drops a grade) Move left onto huge sloper and continue left along low crimp rail. Avoid Jugs and pinches of hashtag crimes.

Sit start on the obvious slash at the bottom left corner and head straight up and left, avoiding the scoops of Pebbles. There are a few ways of doing it.

Start at left scoop, move up through a series of scoops and top out at the peak of the boulder.

Start at left scoop and move right through series of scoopers before top out. Watch out for the swooping sparrows!

Starting with feet up high, pull off slopey undercling / side pull and throw over lip to scoop and choose your own adventure to top out

Start low on slopey holds. Up into slopey fins in the roof and out as for 'Pebbles Variant'. Tensiony transitioning into 'Pebbles Variant' and blasting to the jugs. V10/11?

Start on slopey pinches with feet low, then bust out to the lip while holding the banana-hammock. Starting with feet high earns you Pebbles Variant.

Andy

Start low on the slopers; shoulder up to Roof and finish as for Roof. Hard...but not that inspiring to look at.