Routes as trad in Central Australia

From carpark, approach gorge past line of river gums on L. Pumpy short wall facing you where the gums end, just before the rock paintings. Start at flake near R end of wall, then L to thin seam near top

Prominent butress 300m up from the entry to the gorge, and 100m short of the waterhole. Up cracks on the LHS, passing some small ledges to roof. Swing R (crux) then past more ledges to the top.

Old problem. Step L above the crux of Raven and climb steep crack

Sharp finger crack that splits the W face of the buttress. Good pro.

A reasonably obvious crack roughly 4m from the L end of the face

Great climbing with bomber gear. At the right end of the face are some obvious big 'hueco' holes, R of the major overhang. Join the dots and head up the line of pockets to finish on the ramp.

The obvious LH crack. Up slanting crack and past bulge to top.

The right obvious crack

An entertaining thrash up a steep line on the N wall. Follow the pocketed crack approximately 10m N of the saddle. Upon reaching the ledge after the main difficulties, continue up the line until a move R (below a suss block) leads to easy ground

Nice moves. Start just R of orange rock at the L end of the south face. Up brown wall with some fear and trepidation to reach good edges. A bold lead due to its runout and potential ground plant finish

Crack that splits the W face of the buttress. The whole face is only a few metres wide

The line of pockets on the orange rock at the L end of the S face. Start just L of Mr Ed's Chimney. Traverse diagonally up and L to join the line of pockets (take some good cams for the pockets)

The obvious chimney at the L end of the face

A quality line with good pro R of MEC. The R facing corner, crack, then up and through bulges to top

An attractive line, climbed two days after a 70's party to end all 70's parties. The obvious crack R of Dabadoo. Up scoop on intricate jugs, then up where line eases slightly. Finish up wall near bush on some fantastic (but dubious) metallic coated jugs.

Another good line. Start 4m R of TDA70s. Follow the crack line (intricate pro) to mantle at ledge. Up, veering R at top

Much better (and harder) than it looks. The prominent crack leading up from a small cave another 4m R of CP. Head up through straggly jungle vine and past cave (you can see right through the buttress here!). Diagonally R and over roof (crux). Keep following crack up and then diagonally L on reasonably solid rock, but be careful of the large precarious triangular block most of the way up. It should stay in place but use it carefully

Locate the thin right-leaning line 10m from the L end of the N face. Follow the diagonal line to an easier finish. Start is hard to protect.

This climb takes wider crack 2m R of Kirsty's Unnamed climb, and traverses into the main line after 5m

Prominent right trending crack in good quality grey coloured rock on the south face of the crag.

A 45 degree traverse from the right hand bottom corner on the face, over the small tree and finishing through the roof on the upper left. Really enjoyable overall and will leave you with no regrets for having ascended it

Straight up from beneath the tree cave/ledge, up over the shallow roof and just keep on going.

Starting right of HC with a small and balancy start, go straight up to easier climbing for the rest.

Starting and then remaining about 2 metres from the arete on the right but not touching it. A gift of an enjoyable route from Santa for all the good kids.

The obvious crack in the right facing corner that is screaming 'climb me'...just a few metres right of FTGK....that also had a major spider population going on!

Directly up the slab to the left of ITST. Enjoyable climbing

Up the blank right facing corner up to small roof, slightly right and continuing up the slab/corner. Just the right amount of small but solid wire placements that will leave you thankful for the small things in life

A nice corner that might leave you thinking 'what's next', on the day though seemed like an obvious place to start climbing

Enjoyable and aesthetically pleasing slab starting 1-2 metres right of MLC with specky views of the Hugh River

Very left hand climb on the crag. Up the obvious gully. Some loose rock.

Slabs and ledges on solid rock. Great for beginner climbers. Toprope possible off the rap chain to the right.

Starts in a steep corner with a carrot, up over a bulge with limited natural protection before following the next three carrots to a rap chain. Beware the potential ground fall from 1st to 2nd bolt. A nice line with some loose rock. A great big #6 cam helps protect the crux, while it is advisable to back up the carrots where possible as they are old and stick out a fair way

Up the centre of the slab right of Old Favourite's arete. Finish at rap chain.

Start as for AC then straight up the clean face pst BR and FH to chains

Great sustained crack. 3m right of BL. Savour the music of the rock halfway up. Shares bolted chain anchor with BL

A fantastic climb with everything you need: nice sequences, exposure and enough protection to keep you happy. Climb face to left trending crack, which you follow to the top.

Obvious left facing corner. Nice and varied climbing on partially suspect rock.

The prominent crack on the slab right of Inner Peace. A great beginners lead with continuos pro BUT with the occasional large block that will test your nerve...helmets on! If you passed the white gum tree, you can set up a nice anchor! Mind you, no chain on top!

Look for the splitter crack with an overhang at about 5 metres and roof at about 20 metres and enjoy the climb. Bold in parts for the grade but also with everything there. Larger nuts or cams the go for this one.

Start as for Sickle through the first overhang and then step right on to the slab (a few metres above the FH) and continue up past a carrot or 2 with great moves and exposure to the chains above.

One of the absolute best lines in all of Central Australia, packing in a little bit of everything. Start just around the corner from Sickle at thin, slabby crack. Up this delicately before jugging through small roof. Step L, place bomber cam, take a deep breath and crank through overhang into fist crack leading to the large belay ledge. Rap off chains 3m to the left

A great steep and sustained line that meanders up the chocolate mudcake. Start at a small corner 6m right of Scorpion and make a rising traverse to a cavelet at 8m. Travers up and right for3m then follow vertival cracks before trending back left to a second cavelet. Exit right or left taking a rising left line viz cracks to the top.

Climbs the blank looking face about 6m left of DV that yeilds a fun line on thin holds and gear. Starts directly below huge hanging flake that leans out from the top of the wall. Straight up face on thin positive holds and cracks, trending slightly right on easier ground to finish up the face just R of flake.

A real doozy of a crux highlights this incredible splitter crack up the middle of the wall. Start in large scoop and crank through low crux before the crack relents to easier climbing. Add a grade or three if you don't know how to jam

The best line on the cliff. Start in left facing corner 6 metres right of DoV. Laybacks and jams with good gear lead to interesting mantle finish (beware loose block). After this continue for another few metres before a small traverse left to ring bolts. Can be done with a single rack but an extra #3 camalot wouldn't go astray.