Voies trad dans Central Australia

The first climb on the L end of the main cliff. Climb prominent crack on the L side of the small arete. Tend R from small ledge halfway up. BB.

L trending crack 1m R of TOMP (just R of arete) to small ledge. Step R, and up to belay as for TOMP

Fairly worthless edition, first climbed onsight and ropeless as a warm up. Start 2 metres left of Unsuspecting below a faint, blank looking scoop. Up through intermittent crimps to easier ground just past half height. Trad anchor possible for top roping or bring crash pads as there’s no gear in the climb itself.

Large scoop 2m R of AC to block, up to high BR, then straight up on delicate crimps (don’t give into temptation and step left into jugs) past another BR to DBB.Now equipped (as of April 2021) with FH 2m off the ground to protect the start

Weakness 1m R of FV. Straight up ramp above to BB

Face 1.5m L of useless white FH, past BR, then up to BR on SM. Step R up steep bulge to DBB

A thinner but nicer climb. As for SM, but take line straight up from useless white FH. To get the extra points, don't stray off the line!

R side of main cliff face. Climb starts 1m R of unused white FH. Climb face on the R of 2 FH, clipping them on the way. At chossy finger ledge head L and up past FH, and over bulge to top. DBB

This and the next two climbs are located on a small buttress 15m right of the main cliff. Access to DBB (carrots about 5m back from the edge) is via the right hand end of the cliff. This climb is the crack on the left edge of the face. Slopey holds, tough for the grade and sparse on gear

The pumpy crack on the right end of the face, with a small arete just to its right.

This Climb is stunning, a very awkward and difficult recessed chimney. Simply (!) climb the left tending chimney with a thought-provoking move right at the top.

For those who want to wuss out of the crux on "*1/4 On-Sight 29?" stay left up the crack.

More of a short Boulder Problem

Steep, sustained and tough for the grade. The rising rightward line at the far left end of the cliff. Fingery moves to start before gaining first FH, trend rightward to second FH, then straight up

Wild line on natural pro, taking the mot prominent crack line immediately left of OFTG. Hard, technical start to gain crack at 4m

Excellent naturally protected route up the steep wall between OFTG and SBM. The route was originally intended to be bolted the week before the first natural ascent - hence the name! Start 2m right of OFTG, bold moves up the lower wall lead to ledge and gear, then follow the ragged crack until it trends right to the finish

The as yet unclimbed direct finish to TFTBF. As for that route until the crack trends right near the top. Instead climb the much harder direct line straight to the top

Another excellent, sustained mixed route taking a direct line up the highest section of the cliff. Start 3m right of TFTBF below a small dish. Balance up and clip FH, before ticky moves lead to good holds up high. Continue past second FH, finishing up a small vertical crack

As for SBM to just below the second FH, then step right and follow the ragged, rightward trending crack

Start at the left hand arete just right of The Mr T Variant. Climb up and right into the crack and on to the top.

Start just right of Borrowed Time, crossing that route and climbing the left arete.

Fun climbing with just enough protection. Start 1m right of guano streak below twin caves at the right end of the cliff. Up committing face (small wires can be found) to ledge and cave. Ignore the ancient carrot and continue up and right, around the arete and up slab, passing another carrot to SBB

A Brilliant mix of technical and strenuous climbing. As for SOB to the cave, then straight up the sustained crack system above (beware potential loose rock)

Originally protected by 4 ugly D-Shackles; now chopped, the line can be easily protected. Start 5m right of SM on the steep straight crack behind a tree. Up 2m to a ledge then up steeply past technical jamming, unexpected holds can be found when the going gets really tough. Yes it really is a 21 and no more clues than that. SSB, back it up! (Edit July 2014: No SBB, trad anchor or topout.)

Start as for CSC but keep following the flake until it straightens out

Start up the L curving sickle flake 3m left of WTFIA Direct. Boulder through nervy crux pockets with average gear and bad feet to gain easier ground, finish as for WTFIA

Can be top roped from DBB. Left trending crack, layback to the awkward mantle onto the ledge, then continue on easier ground to a second left trending crack.

Variant start (13) avoid corner, and ascends ramp to the R, to join the line.

Start as for WTFIA up the left trending crack to good protection and awkward moves up onto the ledge. Move up the ramp to the left below the shield, then as per Crazy Sexy Cool over the bulge via suss flake and borderline protection trending slightly right to the top

Ends at FHB. Good crack climbing. Ramp 5m R of WFA to L leading diagonal crack (next crack R of WFA).

Up the L tending crack R of FT. Up to bolt, then smear like a demon through the crux. Continue up line to DBB.

Ryan Gaskon Open Project. Terribly thin line snuck between the classics. Start on horizontal break, clip bolt then boulder through tiny crimps and sidepulls, then dyno right to gain ledge. Continue easily up thin diagonal seam past 2nd break to top

Neil had balls - I like that! ;-) Offwidth leading to diagonal ramp about 5m R of LFS. DBB.

Starts below a scoop just right of flake block, thin moves.Up to and through the scoop, exiting left.

Fingery start up the right trending flake with adequate feet to the first ledge, then straight up with more fun up a crack with large triangular flake on the right. Continue until out. Plenty of good spots for placing gear and a good boulder above if you'd prefer to top rope.

Early crux will have you leaning back. Protect it well as it looks easier than it actually is. Fine once you've got the sequence worked out but until then can make you feel like a moron. Much easier and enjoyable climbing once beyond the crux.

Climb up the bulge between IM and Dreamtime towards and then following the thin crack. Keep moving through the early crux and enjoy a warm down after this as you continue up much easier rock. A bold lead due to sparse/non-existent protection early.

L facing crack and cnr in the middle of the crag. Good beginners lead with heaps of pro. 18m

A couple of metres right of TV and very worthwhile with a thoughtful start to gain the first ledge. Pick your line over the small roof and continue for an enjoyable sustained climb.

A great face climb perfect for the grade. Starting a few metres left of Butterfly Lost, climb towards the small dish with slight overhang and then continue up the rib through another slight overhang (somewhat of a second crux) and just keep on going through easier climbing above. Protection thin with ground falls possible if falling from the top of the second overhang.

Look for the 'V' formation. Head towards it and then keep going more or less directly up.

A great trad route for beginners with plenty of options for placing gear and good rests between nicely exposed moves.

As named, a delightful ending to LWC by taking a few steps left once on the final ledge of LWC and then up through the rightward trending scoop

Lovely right leaning double diagonal cracks on the L side of the terrace.

Starts about 4m R of BSB. Climb weakness then veer L and straight up wall to an easy finish. An alternate finish (CC,same grade) is to climb the line direct, taking care of loose rock.

Excellent steep finger crack, starts at R end of wall, just at the chimney descent. Short and strenuous crack leads to easier climbing.

Straight up almost vertical crack line approx 4m R of LLDL.

Naturally protected. Up steep gully on far LHS and through overhanging headwall into corner.

Start just right of D and traverse R into line. Very strenuous boulder problem down low leads into easier climbing to finish at D chains. Four bolts with #1 cam at bush.

Sustained climbing with a powerful crux. Five bolts with some small cams between the 1st and 2nd.

Two bolts and some natural protection. Climb on slopers into the pumpy corner, step right and up easily.

The better line, which is steep in places but has lots of small wire placements. The rock is generally pretty good but is still loose in places despite plenty of ascents - very 'Centralian'. Climb the left hand crack in the west facing wall. At the top there are a couple of old pegs indicating an earlier ascent, don't use these as there are two solid ring bolts five or so meters further up.

More of the same - climb the R crack where they split. Really there is very little difference between the two climbs.