Routes in Townsville

Open project. Up face (2 x Coeur Pulse) and step R onto slab (1 x Coeur Pulse). Up slab to DBB (2 x Coeur Pulse).

Requires 5 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm

Open project. Up face (2 x Coeur Pulse), over bulge (1 x Coeur Pulse) to DBB (2 x Coeur Pulse).

Requires 5 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm

An easy corner with several variations on the main route. Start at the very LHS of the buttress. Gain the large block and head straight up through the corner to a prominent overhanging block. Mantle to topout and finish.

Start ~60m from the RHS of the buttress. A slab, face, and crack problem that's poorly protected before the crux on loose rock.

1. Up on easy slab to a large ledge.

2. Climb the small face to a second prominent ledge with a tree (belay).

3. Up through crack (crux) to top.

A small wall with an easy warm up climb.

A flat wall with crimps. Technical. Do not go left and use the side rock.

Up the main face of the rock.

Hard start to a slightly worrying high ball. Arguably harder than the grade states.

Sit start. Up and slightly left with a mantle.

One of the slick problems upstream. Sit start and move up, slapping the top sloper and mantle.

Sit start. Straight up on the side of the arete to a mantle.

Sit start. Crimpy start to a easy mantle.

Very much a beginner stroll. Start is marked. Climbs the black streak up slab 4m L of CF. A tree for belay is 5m to the R.

Start is marked, 3m L of HL. Climb black slab to small rooflet (gear at base of this). Nice moves through rooflet then run it out up the ledgy slab to tree belay.

You'll need one - a very thought-provoking crux! Starts around 5m L of PA below the double overhangs (marked). Spaced jugs up slab to below the double overhangs. Cruxy moves climbing the corner through overhangs on small-med wires and then a slabby ramble to the top and tree belay.

About 4m L of PA. Up slab and through blocky corner between the large roofs (on R) and tiny roofs (on L) and then runout slab.

Start is marked 5m L of TG. Up slab, then climb the finger/hand crack through middle of the overhang and up slab to tree belay.

A top rope route up crisp edges on the nicest rock here. The light coloured face reaching R into the corner and finishing on holds on the little arête. Anyone's welcome to bolt it.

Very cool. Start as per EA at base of arête (marked). Up arête following cracks to below small roof. Commit to crux and pull directly through roof on RP's, then nice climbing straight up arête to perfect belay seat and tree.

Start is marked at base of arête at TG, 2m L of CA101. Up arête following cracks to below small roof. Through this to the R up the nice-looking crack to large tree growing in crack. Traverse R 2m then through 1m roof.

About 20m L of PC there is a very obvious big black corner. The start is marked. Up short slab to crack. Up past ledges to big ledge at base of good crack on L wall of corner. Good cams up this to small tree, then mind loose stuff as you push through to the top. Tree belay off L.

Start is marked. Climbs the short, slabby corner behind the pinnacle on small wires. Pick the line of most resistance or the grade will decrease. Tree belay.

No pro. Starts on the front of the pinnacle, about 0.5m L of the R arête. A bouldery low section to a cruisy slab top out.

Start is marked. The left (R-trending) crack on the first major, orange boulder encountered on the walk up.

Start is marked. From the top of the SS boulder, walk 20m uphill until next boulder/wall is encountered. Climb the #1 cam-width line 7m R of obvious chimney.

Start is marked. From I, walk uphill and L around ridge to meet unusually large boulder (main walls become visible here). Starts on lower side of boulder at base of chute. Easily up chute to ledge and boulder base. Climb great finger crack up boulder. Scramble down opposite side.

Start is marked. From J, walk back (away from sea) and down to R side of main walls. This route starts on the ledge. Nice start up cracks leads to ledge at 1/3 height. Up fun lift-shaft to a difficult belay (bring tape).

Currently the cliff classic. Start is marked. From RC walk ~40m L along base of main walls to the cave (possible sleeping spot). Start 3m R of cave. Climb L side of block to wall. Up this with thin pro into corner system. Up corner into well protected, bottomless bridge shaft. Up to loose exit (care!) to belay off tree. Second mini-pitch up chimney leads to massive terrace. Walk R and rap off tree.

Start is marked. From L side of main cliffs walk up & back (away from sea) for 100m to reach black wall. Up crack with tree growing from base to below roof to hidden 'room'. Traverse R under roof and up to finish at tree.

From ARWAV walk L, skirting the rock walls. This climb is obvious as a steep crack start tending L into a corner then up to beneath a 1.5m roof split by a 5 inch crack. Pro goes in this, then traverse to the lip of the roof, turn the lip on hand jams (crux) and up the wide crack to finish at tree. Open project.

Open Project

Steep face trends rightward and finishes at lip. Sharp and technical

Open Project. A single move, dyno problem. Found on the right side of the boulder. The jump is easy, sticking the landing is the hard part! Besides the massive swing you generate, the rock likes to chew your hand up if you don't nail it in the first few attempts.

Start 1m right of "TEB" in the small cave on large two handed jug, move up under the roof and and start moving out to the right, small finger pockets then top out on the right side of the overhanging arete.

On the more 'white' rock left of "Fig Jam", likewise making a direct ascent. With similar technical moves, great for beginners.

Named after the Fig tree at the route. Starting just left of "Feet over hands", make sure to go directly up and not at either side otherwise your starting on different climbs. Nice technical route.

The crux is at the very beginning. Quickly after that, it turns into a grade 16 route. If you like bouldering, you will like the crux. There is a variant to the right that is slightly easier than the first direct move. Look at the topo image for more info.

The variant to "Feet over hands". It starts just to the right and is slightly easier, but far more convoluted.

Arguably harder than the grade states, but once you figure out the footwork, it goes. So make sure you get your feet in the right spots. Its in between two beautiful trees that butterflies really like, so please keep that in mind and don't harm the trees. Very technical moves.

Awesome sustained climb with crux in the middle.

Right of "Stole it from Jamie". Starts with hands matched at head height. The crux is arguably at the middle of the route when you reach for a good tow hand hold. Its very sustained, so make sure you are at least in ludicrous mode.

Arguably the longest route at the buttress; a mere 4-5 metres from the bench. Whilst the holds are really nice and there are many jugs and resting points, it will still test your endurance. Great climb to get some mileage into your cv.

Good jugs, but sustained with an awesome crux section/traverse. Very much in the thick of the jungle, but like always, please respect the trees. Its next (right) to "Mission Possible".

Far far right of the crag. Pretty dirty at the moment, but easy to get to and set up top rope. Follow the cliff face for about 50m and you should be there.

This route has been added as warning about the condition of the bolts, marking this as an unsafe climb. These carrot bolts are very old and rusted. It is not recommended to climb on them.

Option-traverse. Goal is to traverse the wall staying between 1 and 3 m high while exploring a variety of paths. Estimated difficulty is VB to V1 depending on route and movement choices. Holds are angular but smooth, most are very solid. At the middle gap jump between the rocks without touching the ground. Falls are onto soft sand. No crash pad is needed. Repeat back and forth for fun and endurance.

Easy but nerve testing highball up the tallest part of the wall, top out at approx 6m (20ft)

Stand start, route follows curved fracture line below and right of Mim's Finger

Stand start, follow fracture lines up, top out

Sit start, follow the main fracture up, top out

Lowball sit start, negotiate overhang, top out

Short lowball. Sit start match hands and match feet. Proceed up by heel hook (LF), inside flag (RF), and frogging over ledge to top out.

Sit start, match feet, pull up using 2-finger pocket undercling (RH), negotiate overhang, top out

Lowball roof to overhang, sit start, match feet as far under the rock as possible, proceed to climb the overhang via bulbous arete, top out

Sit start, up well-pocketed arete moving right to overhang, tricky top out. Overhangs the bike path

Open problem. Sit or hanging start in the cave, route follows pocketed overhang up the black water streaks. Some sharp pockets

Up on small edges to step out right onto ramp. Up left on ramp a metre then reachy powerful move (crux) to mantle. Nice finish up crimps to top.

Up the left side aerate then top out.

Start sitting on block with both hands in the crescent shaped crack. Move your feet up onto rock and then move right onto the face of boulder on crimps, topping out through the gap on slopers.

The original sit-start holds have been broken off over the years, it may still go but it would be harder then V3. Crouching start at the bottom of the crack, follow the crack to the left until you are over the block then move right onto face of boulder using crimps before topping out through the gap on slopers.

Open Project. Sit start, fist jam and crimper, reach up to layback block then move up and left onto the face of the boulder; From here follow the horizontal crack up and top out in the gap.

Sit start with fist jam and crimp grip, twist up to undercling layback, reach right hand up to arete, layback then reach to left hand grip out on face, then follow arete up to top out.

Starts 2m left of "Mud Wasp". Sit-start under the overhang with feet on small boulder and hands matched on sloper ledge. Moving up and to the left before popping to sharp triangleular crimp. Swing left foot out to brace against the side of the rock, toe hook the lip of boulder with right foot, then mantle to top out.

Standing start in dihedral; move up using the obvious holds. When you have reached the horizontal crack, follow it left to finish.

As you might have guessed, originally climbed barefoot. Stars at "Mud Wasp" move straight up with obvious holds until top-out.

Nice and obvious with a standing start and slopers throughout. Located 1m left of "Frogger".

Standing start with both hands palm down in horizontal crack, step feet up onto the rock and extend up to reach a large sloper, then top out. The left hand crack / arete are not to be used.

Found on top of the second set of boulders. Standing start with hands matched on the obvious juggy ledge. Move directly up on jugs and slopers to finish. BAD LANDING... Be sure to have at least a few crash pads a spotter is not needed however is highly recommended.

Staring at "Family Issues" traverse left and finish in the obvious but surprisingly blank V section.

Found on top of the second set of boulders. A super easy problem with a nice view at the top. Be careful of drop-off.

This problem is located on the far right-hand end of the boulders, next to a tree with a branch cut off. Standing start, far to the left at the lowest ground level. Begin with Left hand on the low crimp and right hand on side-pull flake, step up into dihedral on crimps and side-pulls, continuing up and trending to the right to finish on good juggy holds.

Standing start in the middle of the dihedral, moving straight up on crimps and side-pulls. link into "Extreme Gardening" to finish.

Straight up the middle of the wall

Traverse across the wall (L to R) in frog squat keeping feet above the lower fracture. Climb up and top out on the far right side above cave.

Short layback climb up the crack

Hang above cave and slap up to right side jug (RH), top out

Hang above cave and dyno to topmost hold, top out. Similar starting position as Stinger Slap.

Open project. Cleaning and CPs have been done. Up mini-face, to slab and headwall. Up overhanging pocketed goodness passing cave and out L to harder ground.

Sit start. Match hands lower edge, launch (dyno) to side edge/crimp (RH). Then mantle. Difficulty may be V3 or V4.

Start in crouched position, feet on lower edge and arms extended hugging either side of the rock. Go straight up and top out.

Lowball overhang. Sit start. Negotiate overhang and top out. Lots of pockets. Kneebar optional.

Sit start. Match feet, match hands. Lunge (RH). Ascend using heelhooks (LF). Mantle.

Upright boulder next to Worth Your Salt. Stand start. Straight up and top out

Lowball roof-to-overhang traverse. Lots of jugs and pockets. Easy heelhooks (RF).

Sit or layback start on sand, navigate overhang, top out in little cave

Layback start. Lunge optional (RH).

Highball option, straight up the blackish water-stained streak. Easy but high. 7 or 8 m (roughly 25ft).

A short crack - fist jam and layback.

Up slab.

Using the boulders or tree to bypass the crux of SillySully.