Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Hausener Felsen Erste Zinne Nordseite | |||||
7 | ★★★ Lübow
FFA: Pelz, 2017 | 7 | |||
6+ | ★ Stösserkante
Classic route following the arete between the sectors 'Nordseite' and 'Idiotenüberhang'. The crux is the start of the route. Slightly overhanging and the good holds are polished. After the crux rock quality is better. Don't leave gear in the route. It is better to walk down. FA: Renz & Haug, 1957 | 50m, 2, 9 | |||
Hausener Felsen Erste Zinne Idiotenüberhang | |||||
8 | Falling Down
FA: Nuber, 1998 | 35m, 8 | |||
7+ | Bläddringer
| ||||
9+/10- | Akrobat
Set: Hirschlinger, 2020 | 9 | |||
7+ | Oh Jesses
| ||||
8+ | Rocky Horror Fingerloch
| ||||
9- | Con Fuzzel
| ||||
9- | Familienweg
| ||||
7+ | Halb und Halb
| ||||
8+ | Rumpelfix
| ||||
7+ | Familiendrama
| ||||
9+ | Mume Rumpumpel
| ||||
10- | ★★★ Idiotenüberhang
The first and the most climbed route of the grade in the valley. It is said that it has also been climbed by Wolfgang Güllich † and has been approved. FFA: Gschwendtner, 1986 | 2, 10 | |||
9+ | ★★★ Sodomistenweg
Klemmkeil vor dem Umlenker für die Nerven | 17m, 4 | |||
9+ | Enten Als Frösche Getarnt
| ||||
8 | Ansichten Eines Clowns
| ||||
5+ | Linker Ausstieg Idiotenüberhang
| ||||
8 | Elser
| ||||
8- | Adrenalin
| ||||
8- | Requiem für Bobby Ewing
| ||||
6 | ★ Zinnenprinzessin | 45m, 2, 8 | |||
Hausener Felsen Fischerfels Südwand | |||||
6+ | Bademeister
FFA: Georg Hermann, 26 Jun 2023 | ||||
6 | ★★ Die Dicke Ricke
| 18m | |||
5- | ★★ Fischerkante
FA: Fischer | 30m, 3 | |||
5+ | ★ Patentante
| 20m, 4 | |||
7- | ★★ Patenonkel
FA: Manz & Stöhr, 1986 | 20m | |||
5+ | ★★ Verschneidung
| 25m, 5 | |||
7 | ★ Verschneidung - Rechter Ausstieg
| 25m, 7 | |||
7- | Schwabenstreich
| ||||
8- | Die fliegende Bohrmaschine
FFA: Georg Hermann, 30 Nov 2014 | ||||
8 | Fix und fertig
FFA: Pelz & Pelt, 2015 | ||||
7- | ★★ Fix
Steep hand and finger crack. FFA: Georg Hermann, 1994 | 15m | |||
8 | Foxi
FFA: Georg Hermann, 1994 | ||||
9+ | Projekt Hirschlinger
Set: Hirschlinger, 2019 | ||||
8+/9- | Jrdanuss
Crosses 'Broken Hearts are For Assholes' and shares 3 bolts. FA: Hirschlinger, 2019 | 6 | |||
8 | Broken Hearts are For Assholes
FFA: Pelger & Stöhr, 1987 | ||||
6- | ★★ Tissi Verschneidung
Classic crack with few ring hangers. Can easily be climbed with trad gear only. Nuts and cams. A must at the cliff. FA: Renz, Dreher & Angst, 1957 | 20m, 3 | |||
8 | Quarkfreak
FFA: Braun, 1983 | ||||
8- | Kuckucksei
FFA: Gschwendtner, 1982 | ||||
7- | ★★ Lauer Gordons
FFA: Seehase, 1982 | 20m, 5 | |||
5+ | ★ Terassenweg
FFA: Arthur Oswald †, 2001 | 32m, 2, 7 | |||
7+ | Long Island Ice Tea
| 33m, 10 | |||
7- | Neigdruckt
| 33m, 10 | |||
6- | ★★ Doppelriss
FFA: Arthur Oswald †, 2001 | 33m, 2, 10 | |||
8- | ★★ Hane Nane
Hard face climbing. A very high first bolt and falling at the crux is dangerous because of the ledge below. FFA: Wirth & Halder, 1986 | 18m, 5 | |||
7+ | ★★ Steinbockkante
| 18m, 6 | |||
8+ | ★ S´Hexle
Harter Boulder vom ersten zum zweiten Haken FFA: Georg Hermann, 1990 | 18m, 6 | |||
9 | Uaah
FFA: Ruf, 1997 | ||||
8+/9- | Scomber Mix Revival
| 10m, 2 | |||
9- | Schluckauf
| ||||
5+ | Namenlos
As of 17.04.2018 it is not known where this route should be. | 15m | |||
Hausener Felsen Fischerfels Westwand | |||||
6- | ★★ Spinnenweg
FA: Arthur Oswald †, 2000 | 20m | |||
6+ | Steinbruchkante
FA: Arthur Oswald †, 2000 | 15m | |||
7+ | ★★ Kleiner Meister
FFA: Georg Hermann, 2004 | 15m, 5 | |||
8 | ★★ Großer Meister
FFA: Georg Hermann, 2002 | 20m, 8 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Fischerkante Direkteinstieg
| 25m | |||
Hausener Felsen Fischerfels Nordwand | |||||
5+ | ★★ Plattenweg
Set: Arthur Oswald †, 2000 | 15m, 3 | |||
7- | ★★ Zeckenfürst
Set: Schröder & Häussermann, 2003 | 15m, 5 | |||
7+ | ★★ Mit 66 Jahren
Set: Arthur Oswald †, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
6- | Verschneidung
Set: Arthur Oswald †, 2000 | 15m, 4 | |||
4- | Nordkante
Set: Arthur Oswald †, 2000 | 20m, 4 | |||
{FR} 5c+ | Wellenreiter
FA: Georg Hermann & Jakob Pelz, 21 Sep 2023 | ||||
{FR} 6a | Ohne zu.........
Set: Jakob Pelz, Sep 2023 FA: Georg Hermann, 19 Sep 2023 | ||||
Hausener Felsen Bergwachtfels Nordwand | |||||
6 | ★★ Korallenriff
Set: Bodmer & Katlein FFA: 2006 | 15m, 4 | |||
7- | ★★ Tears of Love
Set: Bodmer & Katlein FFA: 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
4 | Linker Weg
| 20m, 7 | |||
5 | Schluchtwand
| ||||
6 | ★★ Tinki Winki
| 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Moosmännchen
| 15m | |||
7 | ★ Lala
Set: Georg Hermann & Zuckerschwerdt, 1999 | 15m, 6 | |||
6 | ★★ Po
| 20m | |||
7 | Dipsi
| ||||
7+ | ★ Holgers Traum
| ||||
7 | ★★ Traumfänger
| ||||
Hausener Felsen Bergwachtfels Westwand | |||||
6 | ★★ Pfriemel
| 10m | |||
5 | Westriss
| ||||
5 | ★★ Wand
| 15m | |||
7 | ★ Pfeiler
| 15m | |||
5- | Anfängerroute
| ||||
Hausener Felsen Eigerturm | |||||
6- | ★★ Überlinger Weg
FA: Schellig, 1998 | 20m, 6 | |||
5 | ★ Zickzack-Weg
Quite stiff for the grade. Crux between third and fourth bolt may be your self-confidence. Use a nut to keep calm. Set: Arthur Oswald † | 30m, 10 | |||
5 | Direkter Einstieg Eigerturm
Start with Zickzack-Weg and at the 5th bolt change into the first pitch of Eigerturm. Avoids some of the rope drag and therefore the first belay may be skipped to continue to the semi hanging belay below the crux dihedral of 'Direkter Eigerturm'. | 50m, 3 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Superdirekter Eigerturm
One of the best routes of that grade. Steep, long, good rock and an airy finish. Be aware to don't use the bolts of 'Zickzack-Weg'. If you do you climb to much to the right.
FA: Kreiner & Arthur Oswald †, 1999 | 40m, 10 | |||
5- | ★★ Eigerturm
The easiest route through the face of the Eigerturm. A must climb. Good to warm up and for beginners to learn how to climb multi pitch routes. If the pitches are too long, they can be split at the intermediate lower-off anchors. FA: Nothdurft & Seeger, 1954 | 61m, 3, 5 | |||
7- | ★★★ Ruckzuck
Another great diretissima that shares the start with Eigerturm and 'Schwarzwälder Kirsch'. Crosses Eigerturm and 'Direkter Eigerturm' to end right of 'Superdirekter Eigerturm'. FA: Kreiner & Lebherz, 1984 | 40m, 10 | |||
8- | ★★ Schwarzwälder Kirsch
A direct and harder start into 'Südpfeiler'. FA: Müller, 2003 | 40m, 12 | |||
7 | ★★ Südpfeiler
Starts with a relative easy crack. The first bolt is very high so bring some gear to improve protection and to avoid run outs further up. After the crack keep right and use two ring anchors of 'Direkter Eigerturm'. Then continue straight up with the 5 glue-in bolts until you reach the top of the small pillar. Standing on top of it you may reach the last bolt. Pre-clip it as the next moves are meant to be the crux. Pushing through the crux you will find a flake to place a sling. Use it or you may risk a fall onto the pillars top.
FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1998 | 45m, 9 | |||
6 | ★★★ Direkter Eigerturm
1
5+
35m
2
6
15m
Another Eigerturm variant that climbs from right to the center of the wall joins the Eigerturm route branches of into direct finish through a great dihedral. Below the dihedral, the crux, you may use the semi hanging belay to avoid rope drag. Protection may be improved with Cams and nuts. | 50m, 2, 9 | |||
7 | D´Schublad
Shares the start with 'Südpfeiler' but branches to the right at the second ring anchor of 'Direkter Eigerturm'. From there follow the slings right of 'Südpfeiler' route.
FA: Kreiner, 1984 | 40m, 3 | |||
5+ | ★★ Türmlesweg
1
5+
30m
2
5
10m
Set: Arthur Oswald †, 2006 | 40m, 2 | |||
7+ | Igor
FA: Stöhr & Calmbach, 1983 | 30m, 4 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Igor Rechts
Easier variant of 'Igor' along a large shed where you have to take courageously. Great laybacks at the beginning and holes at the end. Nuts are recommended to improve protection before the first bolt and the easier parts above the shed. | 30m, 4 | |||
8+ | ★★ Das verlorene Mufflon
Acess from the little platform where Zulliverschneidung starts as well. Dyno between the 2. and 3. bolt. | 25m, 7 | |||
5+ | ★★ Zulliverschneidung
Set: C. Katlein & T. Bodmer, 2007 | 30m, 5 | |||
6- | ★★ Die T(k)rügerische Schuppe
The fun part is very short but it is it worth to climb. After an easy ramp (3) that ends on a vegetated platform, follow the bolts on the right of 'Zulliverschneidung'. The line looks difficult but works out quite easy. A little pumpy because you have to piaz. Set: C. Katlein & T. Bodmer, 2007 | 30m, 8 | |||
6- | ★★ Dohlenteufel
Set: C. Katlein & T. Bodmer, 2007 | 30m | |||
7- | Tage wie dieser
Set: C. Katlein & T. Bodmer, 2007 | ||||
6 | ★ Mademoiselle Links
| 30m, 3 | |||
7- | ★ Madame
FA: Fritz & Stachl, 1988 | 20m |