Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Traumfels | |||||
6+ | ★★ Michelutschi
Long traverse to the left. Shares the start with 'Mitte Links'. Head for the blue sling and the very last anchor on the left. FA: Mailänder, 1984 | 25m | |||
7+ | ★ Fehldiagnose
FA: Matze Ruf, 1991 | ||||
8+ | Pooma
Rechter Einstieg im Überhang | ||||
6+ | ★★ Zimberline
FA: Frenzl, 2000 | ||||
5+ | ★ Mitte Links
| 25m, 3 | |||
7- | ★★ Die Gelbe
FA: Gernert & Mayer, 1985 | 25m, 3 | |||
6 | ★ Schlechtwetterspaziergang
FA: Aßfalg & Liebschner, 1989 | ||||
6+ | ★★★ Hans im Glück
Really rewarding route at pockets. Lots of natural pro (slings, tri-cams). Shares the first meters with 'Traumwand'. FA: Fritz & Scharfenberger, 1984 | 20m, 2 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Traumwand
Starts at threads (black sling), followed by a short slab section (bolt). Then follow the obvious, most logical line along the flake to the right (2 slings). Then take a run-out (or improve pro) to the belay at the start of the chimney. Climb through the chimney (1 bolt) until a small roof (sling) then head left via a bolt slightly overhanging to the anchor. FA: Arthur Oswald †, 1973 | 25m, 2, 3 | |||
6+ | ★★★ Traumlandschaft
Just before the belay of the second pitch of 'Traumwand' follow the thin crack straight upwards to the lower off of 'Traumwand'. FA: Komander, 2006 | 20m | |||
7+ | ★ Gnadenlos
FA: Pelger & Münchberg, 1997 | ||||
8 | Platte
FA: Jaumann, 1988 | ||||
8 | ★★ Chak Mool
FA: Fritz & Scharfenberger, 1984 | ||||
8+ | ★★★ Tunnelsyndrom
FA: Kies, 1986 | ||||
8 | ★★★ Bayernethik
FA: Pelger & Lörcher, 1991 | ||||
8 | ★★★ Garten Des Satans
FA: Fritz & Scharfenberger, 1984 | 6 | |||
8+ | Open Air
FA: Pelger & Nuber, 1990 | ||||
8- | ★ Rosenstrauchführe
FA: Arthur Oswald † | 25m | |||
7 | ★★ Bakita Bar
Nach dem 6. Bohrhaken von der Rosenstrauchführe nach links queren und die Verschneidung voll hoch (3 weitere Haken) zum Umlenker (Einzelner Bohrhaken ohne Sauschwanz) FA: Pelger & Gernert, 1998 | ||||
8- | ★ Overlaping
FA: Matze Ruf, 2000 | ||||
8- | Dirty Harry
FA: Nuber, 2000 | ||||
7+ | Wackeldackel
FA: Nuber, 2000 | ||||
8- | Los, Wir Fahren Nach Poona!
| ||||
Hölle Südwand | |||||
9- | Hell´S Bells
| ||||
8+ | Highway to Hell
| ||||
9- | ★★★ Hell Yeah!
| ||||
10- | Leidensweg
| ||||
8+ | Hellls Angels
| ||||
10- | Tod durch Bingo-Bongo
| ||||
10 | Dark Forces
| ||||
10- | Loose Your Illusion
| ||||
10+ | Jedi
| ||||
Hölle Torbogen | |||||
9+ | Randvoll
| ||||
8- | Pretty Hate Machine
| ||||
9- | Kellergeister
| ||||
8+ | Lass Dich Doch Einfach Gehn
| ||||
9 | Monster Magnet
| ||||
9+ | Höllenritt
Wie Fegefeuer, dann aber weiter in Lass mich doch einfach gehen, diese raus. FFA: Jörg Zeidelhack, 2005 | ||||
9+/10- | ★★★ Fegefeuer
Startet im Rotz und geht nach links zum großen Loch vom Monstermagnet, diesen raus ohne in den Rastpunkt zu queren. FFA: Jörg Zeidelhack, 2005 | ||||
9/9+ | Rotzlöffel
Einstieg Rotz und dann rechtshaltend oben raus. FFA: Jörg Zeidelhack, 2005 | ||||
6 | Rotz
| ||||
8+ | Knocking on Heavens Door
| ||||
8+ | Use Your Illusion
| ||||
8 | Ableger
| ||||
7 | Kaktus
| ||||
8+ | Run Like Hell
| ||||
7+ | ★★ Linie 14
| ||||
Hölle Balkon | |||||
6+ | ★ Quergang
| ||||
8 | Me, My Friend and the Sex Machine
| ||||
9- | Stromausfall
| ||||
9 | Mister Hoover
| ||||
9- | Attentat
| ||||
7- | ★★ Sweet Sixteen in Leather Boots
| ||||
5+ | Pizza Diavolo
| ||||
6+ | Sex Magic
| ||||
9- | Black Sugar Baby
| ||||
Hölle Rechts | |||||
6+ | Plumpaquatsch
| ||||
7+ | Blau wie die Hölle
| ||||
8+ | Sarkophag
| ||||
8 | ★★ Flachland
Technische Kletterei die gute Stehtechnik erfordert und ganz schön pumpt | 16m, 4 | |||
8- | Satansbraten
| ||||
8 | Des Satans Neue Kleider
| ||||
8 | Miasma Blues
| ||||
8- | ★★★ Horrorvision
| ||||
9- | Fluchtversuch
| ||||
7- | ★★ Helldriver
| ||||
8+ | ★★ Fahr Zur Hölle
Knackiger Einstieg und nochmal schwer an der Dachkante, danach hilft piazen | 20m, 7 | |||
9+ | Landliebe
| ||||
10- | Short Cut
| 6 | |||
7+ | ★★ Akku-Punktur
| ||||
7+ | ★ Petras Projekt
| 22m, 6 | |||
7- | Uf Deifl Komm Raus
| ||||
6 | ★★ Alter Weg
| ||||
8- | Todesengel
| ||||
8 | Kante
| ||||
Hölle | |||||
FR:8a | ★★★ Fegefeuer
A masterpiece of kneebar blocks following a prow feature through the steep hole. | ||||
Schaufels Ebinger Turm | |||||
6 | ★★★ Alter Ebinger Turm Weg
1
6
25m
2
6-
25m
3
5+
15m
4
5+
25m
5
5
25m
This route is a little alpine adventure in the Danube valley and features varied climbing in an impressive environment. A must for everybody who prepares for routes in the Alps. Protection is sufficient but can be easily improved with nuts, friends and slings. For the descent (abseiling 35m, 45m, 20m) half ropes with 50m length are necessary. Abseiling: From the top ascend to the loweroff before the downclimb, from there straight down into the unknown where you will find another loweroff (to bolts with chain) and from there get to the ground. FA: Häderle & Diener, 1936 | 120m, 5, 14 | |||
Schaufels Kaiserweg | |||||
9 | Direttissima
1
8+
2
7
3
9
4
7+
FA: Nothdurft & Pfäffle, 1956 | 4 | |||
7 | ★★★ Kaiserweg
1
6+
30m
2
7
30m
3
6+
15m
4
7-
30m
5
5
15m
Very popular and long multi pitch route with a difficult traverse. FA: Nothdurft & Seeger, 1955 | 120m, 5, 31 | |||
8+ | Ravioli in roter Soße
FA: Stöhr & Werderfrau, 1986 | ||||
8-/8 | Ravioli unter roter Sonne
FA: Stöhr & Baumgärtner, 1985 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Schöner Riß
1
6+
30m
2
6
40m
3
7-
25m
Shares the first pitch with the Kaiserweg and is a good alternative if the Kaiserweg is crowded. The second pitch offers an additional belay station after about 25m. FA: Mayer & Arthur Oswald †, 1956 | 95m, 3, 22 | |||
8+/9- | Doktor Mabuse
Climb in via 'Schöner Riss' (2 pitches). Shares the belay with 'Im Reich des Zyklopen' FA: Andes, 1982 | 4 | |||
8/8+ | Im Reich des Zyklopen
Climb in via 'Schöner Riss' (2 pitches). Shares the belay with 'Doktor Mabuse'. FA: Pelger & Funk, 1989 | 3 | |||
8+ | Die Sonne am Kaiserhimmel
| ||||
7+ | Klaus Werner Gedenk Weg
Same start as 'Gerader Riss'. FA: Kiene & Federle, 1977 | 7 | |||
7+ | La Fête De Plaisir
FA: Georg Hermann, 1990 | ||||
7+ | Jenseits von Afrika
1
7+
2
7+
FA: Fritz & Eberle, 1987 | 2, 10 | |||
5+ | ★ Gerader Riss
1
5-
25m
2
5+
25m
Third pitch is closed and protection is removed. Great climb. Rocks may be useful. 1st pitch 5 bolts, 2nd pitch 6 bolts FA: Blickle | 50m, 6 | |||
6- | Koi Weib, koi Gschroi
FA: Brotzer, 1988 | 3 | |||
Schaufels Normalweg | |||||
7- | ★★★ Via Veterano | 100m, 4, 16 | |||
6+ | Normalweg Linke Variante
| 90m | |||
5+ | ★★★ Normalweg
1
4+
30m
2
5+
25m
3
5
30m
Leichtester Weg durch die Wand. Entsprechend oft begangen. Zum Teil etwas speckig. Dennoch ein wunderbarer Klassiker und durch die senkrechte Wand sehr ausgesetzt. Zusätzliche mobile Sicherungen sind in allen SL zu empfehlen. Ausstieg erlaubt. FA: Blickle & Lorch, 1930 | 85m, 3, 6 | |||
6 | ★★★ Leere Welt
1
6
2
6
3
5
Exit to the top allowed. FA: Kreiner & Blank, 1988 | 90m, 6 | |||
7+/8- | Bled Gloffa
A short connection from the 2nd pitch of 'Leere Welt' to the anchor of 'Chrome Dome'. FA: Georg Hermann, 1988 | 90m, 6 | |||
8+ | ★ Dreamteam
FA: Georg Hermann & Schulze | 35m, 11 | |||
8 | Godfather of Rock
1
8
2
8
Same start as 'Leere Welt', crosses 'Dreamteam' and 'Trizeps' and ends at the lower off anchor of 'Trizeps'. FA: Pelger & Funk, 1989 | 80m, 8 | |||
7 | Trizeps
1
7
2
7
FA: Ott & Köninger, 1978 | 80m, 7 | |||
8- | ★★ Trizeps Direkteinstieg
FA: Kubin, 1986 | 8 | |||
8 | Super Super Trizeps
|