A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1. The Theatre 14 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Theatre 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -25.663554, 30.363774
description
A few incredible lines including some classic trad on the big obvious orange wall you can see for miles! Be brave and leave the social crags of 'The God No Wall' and 'The Superbowl' for a day and check out these brilliant lines.
access issues
Climbing Permits Wonderland The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, 'The Mayhem Crags' and 'Tranquilitas'. The MCSA has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs: Day Permits R 60 Day permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R30 Weekend Permits R100 Weekend permits for MCSA/ Tranquilitas members R50 Month permits R 600 Month permits for MCSA / Tranquilitas R300 Annual R1600 Annual for MCSA / Tranquilitas R1 200 By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.
approach
As for 'The Left Wings', continue another 50m or so until a huge slightly detached 4m high block is reached. The big orange left-facing wall of 'Heart of China' is an obvious landmark.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Endless October
Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasps Starts at the left end of the ledge/block. Brilliant. FA: Grant Murray, 1992 | 24 | 9 | |||
| 2 |
★★ Sweet Cousin Cocaine
From the right of the block climb past a bouldery lower section then a finish on huge jugs. Superb. FA: Gary Lotter, 1991 | 25 | 10 | |||
| 3 |
★★ Night of the Toast
The obvious crack line on the left of 'The Theatre', just right of 'Sweet Cousin Cocaine'. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991 | 23 | ||||
| 4 |
★★ Mankini Blue
A crimpers delight! Climb first couple bolts of 'Bikini Red' then branch left and up the crimpy wall. Was opened at 26 but apparently its not. MCSA Bolts FA: Andrew Pedley, 2012 | 28 | 9 | |||
| 5 |
★★★ Bikini Red
Stunning! Better than 'Lotter's Desire'? In the middle of the face. Name written at base. The first bolt is very high but the climbing is super easy. Don‟t stray left at the top, just trust those feet and go! FA: Mike Hislop, 1992 | 27 | 9 | |||
| 6 |
★★★ Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator
Climbs the scoop 5m right of 'Bikini Red'. Opened on trad gear, very poorly protected. Has been retro-bolted, have a safe flight. FA: Mike Hislop, 1992 Set: Clive Curson, 2018 | 16 | 14 | |||
| 7 |
★★★ G-Minor in G-String
Using the cracks to clear the bulge. Cross left over 'Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator' at a third way up at the shared ledge using hangers. Then it is all the business trying to keep your G-string clean! FA: Mel Janse van Rensburg & Gustav Janse van Rensburg, 2018 | 22 | 13 | |||
| 8 |
★★ Stage Fright
Starting 5m left of the 'Centre Stage' corner, go up and somewhat left to the arete. Follow this to anchors. Less scary since retro-bolt. FA: Clive Curson, 1992 Set: Clive Curson, 2018 | 20 | 16 | |||
| 9 |
★★ 2b or not 2b
A fairly moderate way to the highest ledge (80% up) in the middle of this impressive amphitheatre. Starting 3m left of 'Centre Stage', go up to the diagonal break leading back to the main corner. Last move to the lower anchors is the crux. Extend draws in the mid-section. FA: Arielle & Talia Behr, 2018 | 14 | 12 | |||
| 10 |
★★ Centre Stage
This is the leftmost route on the right wall of 'The Theatre'. Climbs the corner. Avoid the weird looking pillar on your left low down. Crux layback at the top. FA: Clive Curson, 1992 Set: 2018 | 18 | 15 | |||
| 11 |
★★★ Into the Night We Slide
Just to the right of the major dihedral in 'The Theatre', a few meters left of 'Heart of China'. Opened on trad. Sparse gear. FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1991 | 23 | ||||
| 12 |
★★★ Heart of China
CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall, via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. One of the best trad lines at 'The Restaurant'. FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1991 | 23 | ||||
| 13 |
★★ Big In Japan
The line of bolts left of 'Kindred Spirits'. This line has a controversial history supposedly involving an unauthorised first ascent followed by the bolts being chopped by the original bolter. The line was re-bolted by Danny Pinkas and re-opened by Marc Efune in November 2014 Set: Danny Pinkas FA: Marc Efune, Nov 2014 | 30 | 14 | |||
| 14 |
★★★ Kindred Spirits
At the right end of the ledge, climb up a few moves, and right around the corner to under a roof (awkward 3rd clip out left). Opened at 25! FA: Grant Murray, 1992 Set: 2009 | 26 | 10 | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 14 | ★★ | 2b or not 2b | 12 | ||
| 16 | ★★★ | Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator | 14 | ||
| 18 | ★★ | Centre Stage | 15 | ||
| 20 | ★★ | Stage Fright | 16 | ||
| 22 | ★★★ | G-Minor in G-String | 13 | ||
| 23 | ★★★ | Heart of China | |||
| ★★★ | Into the Night We Slide | ||||
| ★★ | Night of the Toast | ||||
| 24 | ★★★ | Endless October | 9 | ||
| 25 | ★★ | Sweet Cousin Cocaine | 10 | ||
| 26 | ★★★ | Kindred Spirits | 10 | ||
| 27 | ★★★ | Bikini Red | 9 | ||
| 28 | ★★ | Mankini Blue | 9 | ||
| 30 | ★★ | Big In Japan | 14 |