Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 31st Mar 2024 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Böse Verschneidung - with Ronja Barelli | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Start ist extrem speckig, vor allem für sie Füsse… Sonst eigentlich spannender und technischer Slab.
|
|||||||
Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Urmiberg | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Merlin — 2 attempts | ||||||
Super difficult if you don't know the beta.
|
|||||||
Fri 8th Mar 2024 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
6c | ★★ Elmer-Wändll — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I would say it's hard if you are short
|
|||||||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
5a | ★ Fieberkurve - with Nicky, Anika | 18m | Average | ||||
Nicht so cool
|
|||||||
4a | ★★ Briefkästen - with Nicky, Anika | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sehr cool
|
|||||||
Tue 7th Nov 2023 - Steigfadbalm | |||||||
5c+ |
★★ Spaceballs
1
Sturz im Vorstieg, nachdem ein Handgriff abgebrochen ist. Beim Nachsteiger folgten dann noch 3 weitere 🤨
2
Warscheinlich die SL mit der besten Gesteinsqualität - trotzdem hats auch viel loses dabei.
3
Beim zweiten Aufschwung jeweils links und rechts der Haken die stabilsten Griffe suchen. Klettern wie auf Eierschalen 😓
4
Der zweite Haken ist sehr lose. Von der Schwierigkeit her kein grosses Problem. Wenn man sich aber bei jedem Griff fragen muss, ob der wohl hält, ist der grosse Hakenanstand mental eher fordernd. Partner ist bis zum dritten Haken vorgestiegen. Dort war noch eine Expresse vom letzten Rückzug drin. Danach sieht alles nochmals ein Stück brüchiger aus - daher Rückzug und abgeseilt. | 160m | |||||
Auf keinen Fall einsteigen, wenn schon jemand in der Wand ist. Hier fliegen garantiert bei jeder Begehung ein paar Steine. Die Stände sind glücklicherweise sauber platziert, so dass sie für die nachste Seillänge einigermassen aus der Schusslinie sind. Da die Linie aber immer wieder links/rechts abwechselt, wäre eine zweite Seilschaft ständig gefährdet! Abseilen dank gut platzierten Ständen recht Problemlos (ohne 4. SL). Stände mit alten Seilstücken verbunden - sollte selbst ergänzt werden.
Das Klettern im Konglomerat ist äusserst ansprechend, sobald man sich mal daran gewöhnt hat, dass jeder Griff auch kritisch auf Stabilität untersucht werden muss. Die Hakenabstände sind teilweise eher gross, wenn man den Griffen und Tritten nicht so recht traut. |
|||||||
Wed 1st Nov 2023 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Föhnenberg Hauptwand | |||||||
6a | Dynastar | Average | |||||
nach dem 3. Haken evtl. rechts herum? Linie unklar. Gerade hoch wäre ca. 6c/7a?
|
|||||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Föhnenberg Hauptwand | |||||||
6a ~6b | Dynastar - with Anika, Jakob | ||||||
no idea
|
|||||||
Mon 7th Aug 2023 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
7a | ★★ Hexentanz - with Markus | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Einzugproblem - interessant
|
|||||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
6a | ★ Abigdächli Ausstieg rechts | 25m, 6 | |||||
Thu 8th Jun 2023 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
6c+/7a | Max | 10m, 3 | |||||
Very short, but the crux is hard!
|
|||||||
Tue 30th May 2023 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
6a | ★★ Pfeiler left | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Hakenabstände oben eher gross, aber an diesen Stellen auch nicht mehr so schwer.
|
|||||||
6b | ★ Böse Verschneidung rechts weg | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Start sehr schmierig (vor allem für die Füsse). Danach ein paar mal schönes hochstemmen in der Verschneidung. Schluss athletisch an guten Griffen. Der Abstand zum letzten Haken erschien mir im ersten Moment etwas weit, war dann aber ganz ok.
|
|||||||
6a+ | ★★ Sprayer | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nach dem kleinen Überhang gibt es eine Variante die rechts um den Haken führt (fast in der Route "Elmer-Wändli"). Um links herum zu klettern, muss man einen guten Griff links aussen finden, den man von unten kaum erkennt.
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Unknown Route 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Unter dem Überhang, mit den guten Griffen rechts möglichst hoch stehen, dann sollte man das Loch links oben ertasten können. Nach der Krux wunderschöner Fels und einfach zu klettern.
|
|||||||
6a+ | ★★ Linki | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Zwei Löcher beim kleinen Überhang extrem Schmierig. Darüber, im linken Teil der Verschneidung, hats dann nochmals ein Loch, das man beim Klettern leicht übersehen kann. Wenn man alle Griffe gefunden hat gehts gut.
|
|||||||
Sat 20th May 2023 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
6b | Variante direkt | 25m | |||||
Wet crux destroyed the send
|
|||||||
Sat 6th May 2023 - Rigi - Hochflue | |||||||
Thedy's Gärtli | |||||||
5c+ | ★★★ Flüeblüemli | 150m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful climbing, very flowy. The 4ish pitches are a bit harder and the 5c+ pitch is a bit soft, so overall it works out.
Added one/two more pitches in the 4th grade at the end to round things off.
|
|||||||
Thu 4th May 2023 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Athletikus | |||||||
6b ~6b+ | Sebi Rechts | 18m, 5 | Average | ||||
6b only if you are tall enough to reach the next crimp in the crux. Otherwise I think it's a bit harder.
|
|||||||
6b ~6b+ | Unknown Route 7 | 18m | Average | ||||
A bit unfrequent route. There was some weed in couple of pockets. The last part (the last bolt before the anchor) was wet and muddy. This makes this part very tricky. Lower in the crux (above the second clip) a hard move on the heel, felt more like 6b+
|
|||||||
Thu 4th May 2023 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
6b Hard | ★ Böse Verschneidung rechts weg | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
The start and the bottom part (up to 2nd clip) is very polished. Felt actually harder with a much tricker sequence than the actual crux for 6b at the top.
|
|||||||
Sun 5th Mar 2023 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Athletikus | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ Unknown Route 6 — 2 attempts - with Anika | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Harte Einzelstelle von Loch zu Band
|
|||||||
5c+ | ★★ Spreizer - with Anika | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bewegungen schön Fels und Bolts teilweise nicht so schön
|
|||||||
Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Urmiberg | |||||||
5c | WdA - with Lukas | Don't Bother | |||||
Looks spectacular but the climbing itself is rather moderate. Placement of bolts could be safer. Crux at 2/3 of the line, illogical and complex sequence.
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Uht - with Lukas | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Very nice route, accurate grading. Good holds and poor feet higher up. Holds at start are small and crimpy which complicates a flash go at low temperatures.
|
|||||||
6a | ★★ Hunter - with Lukas | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Hangdog due to 25 kg rock that was torn out of the wall, fortunately right after clipping in the first bolt. Beware, the start is very brittle.
|
|||||||
7a | ★★ Finger Torch — 2 attempts - with Anna S. | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sweet start with about 6a difficulty, going up and left along quite good holds and footholds. Crux comes in the last part of the route, suddenly the good feet vanish and so do the good holds. The last part of the crux can be avoided by going left into the juggy gully instead of using the two pockets, then it‘s definitely easier.
|
|||||||
6a ~5b+ | ★★ Hunter - with Anna S. | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Nice route, but at an absolute max it is 5c. Always good holds where you need them. We ripped out a huge block from the right side of the start. Be careful, that part of the rock looks very chossy.
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Uht - with Anna S. | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Still nice and accurate grade, not the norm in this sector. Difficult feet but always a place to rest.
|
|||||||
Sat 7th Jan 2023 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Route 22 | 25m | Crap | ||||
Hat kein Stand, einfach oben um den Baum laufen
|
|||||||
Sun 16th Oct 2022 - Rigi - Hochflue | |||||||
Thedy's Gärtli | |||||||
4c | ★★ Männertrü - with rk | 130m, 12 | |||||
Route is well bolted except for the last pitch there is one slight runout where one or two nut/cam placements are possible (but not necessary).
|
|||||||
Thu 1st Sep 2022 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
6b | ★★ Electronic | 25m | |||||
was still a little bit wet - next time redpoint
|
|||||||
Sun 28th Aug 2022 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
3a 3a - b | ★ Siebenschläfer | 20m, 10 | Crap | ||||
Your rope really rubs along the ledges when you're lowering down. Really can't recommend this at all
|
|||||||
5a | S' Nüschti | 30m | Average | ||||
The flake at the beginning feels really hollow and sketchy but yea #yololifestyle
|
|||||||
Sun 21st Aug 2022 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
6b | ★★ Wassermann | 25m | |||||
Hard start for the grade
|
|||||||
6a | ★ Abigdächli Ausstieg rechts | 25m, 6 | |||||
Slipped out unnecessarily. Will try again next time
|
|||||||
Tue 19th Jul 2022 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
6a | ★★ Böse Verschneidung | 20m | |||||
|
|||||||
6a+ | ★★ Sprayer | 20m | |||||
I belayed someone before on this route, so it's not a proper onsight...
|
|||||||
Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Tridwand | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Bonus Malus | ★ Good | |||||
2nd Go
|
|||||||
Sat 28th May 2022 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Basilland | |||||||
7a | ★★ Bimbo - with Klara Sinha | ★★ Very Good | |||||
2nd go. Boulder at the start.
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Phönix - with Klara Sinha | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Tough traverse...
|
|||||||
7a | ★★ Bimbo - with Yannick Froese | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Nice boulder problem
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Phönix | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Powerful undercling traverse
|
|||||||
Sun 13th Feb 2022 - Urmiberg | |||||||
5c | ★★ Via Madonna | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Juggy
|
|||||||
4b+ | ★ Come Stai | Average | |||||
TR to clean the diagonal route. Weird.
|
|||||||
5c+ | Pinot | Don't Bother | |||||
Longer bolt spacing than the rest, and illogical line.
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Uht | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Like a gym route. Big moves and big holds. Great!
|
|||||||
6a | ★★ Hunter | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Juggy niceness.
|
|||||||
Sun 7th Nov 2021 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Space Monkey - with Chris, Rainer | 10m, 5 | Average | ||||
Sehr kurz und sehr bouldrig. Einem dünnen Riss entlang und auf sehr schmierigen Tritten. Nach der Session gestern heute wenig ernsthaft und nach einem erfolglosen Versuch und mit recht schultiger Beta schon aufgegeben bin ich dann als Rainer dann noch kam doch noch einmal rein und dann ging es grad mit etwas besserer Fussarbeit. Ich musste trotzdem bis oben kämpfen und bin grad so und mit sehr schmerzhaften Armen durchgekommen. Erste 7a+ nach der Schulterverletzung .
|
|||||||
Sat 30th Oct 2021 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
5c | ★★ Schwartenweg | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Schön rauher und griffiger Fels. Der Föhn hat uns leider fast weggeweht. Mussten ins Chämiloch ausweichen.
|
|||||||
Sat 30th Oct 2021 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
4a | ★★ Briefkästen | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Polished aber trotzdem cool mit diesen super Griffen; 5b im Plaisir.
|
|||||||
Wed 2nd Jun 2021 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
6a+ 5c | ★★ Unknown Route 1 | 20m | |||||
5c gemäss Plaisir Ost und auch eigener Bewertung
|
|||||||
4b 3b | ★ Platte | 20m | |||||
4b gemäss Plaisir Ost und auch eigener Bewertung
|
|||||||
4c 3c | ★ Plattige Verschneidung | 20m | |||||
4c gemäss Plaisir Ost und auch eigener Bewertung
|
|||||||
5c 4b | ★★ Dülferplatte | 20m | |||||
5a gemäss Plaisir Ost und auch eigener Bewertung
|
|||||||
5c+ 6a | ★★ Böse Verschneidung | 20m | |||||
6a gemäss Plaisir Ost und auch eigener Bewertung
|
|||||||
Sat 15th May 2021 - Urmiberg | |||||||
6a | Jym 5 - with Yvonne, robert, Adrian, Fink Conley | ||||||
Definitiv schwieriger... 6c oder mehr
|
|||||||
6a+ | ★★ Merlin - with Yvonne, Ad^rian, Adrian, Robert | ||||||
eigene Bewertung 6b+
|
|||||||
5b+ | ★★ Litzer - with Yvonne, adran, Robert, Adrian | ||||||
Einstieg 6a
|
|||||||
Mon 5th Apr 2021 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
6c | ★★ Elmer-Wändll - with Rainer | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Einmal kräftig über den Bauch ziehen und dann noch auf einem recht ungemütlichen Tritt Echse hängen und noch klippen. Zum Glück hat der Tritt gehalten. Danach dann easy coole Kraxelei zum Top.
|
|||||||
6c | ★★ Edelwiis - with Rainer | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Coole Sektion mit kleinen Leisten, bei der noch gute Fussarbeit gefragt ist. Oben dann noch ein kleines Dächli, bei dem man noch einmal etwas ziehen muss.
|
|||||||
6a 5a | ★ Fieberkurve - with Rainer | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Für die Kids eingehängt, die haben leider keine grosse Motivation gezeigt. Tendenziell eher einfacher als 6a. Oben hat es noch einmal ein tricky Sektion.
|
|||||||
Fri 2nd Apr 2021 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Tridwand | |||||||
6c | ★ Batman - with Adrian, Yvonne, Robert | 35m | |||||
eher schwerer
|
|||||||
5c+ | Made by Ducati - with Robert, Adrian, Yvonne | 35m | |||||
Schwierigere Einstiegsvariante links geklettert
|
|||||||
3b | Risi Bisi - with Adrian, Robert, Yvonne | 35m | |||||
Wesentlich schwerer (4b/c?)
|
|||||||
Sat 6th Mar 2021 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
6a | ★ Löchliweg - with Conny | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Leicht feucht
|
|||||||
Sun 22nd Nov 2020 - Steinbruch | |||||||
5a+ | ★★ De 5er und s Weggli | 220m | ★ Good | ||||
Schönes Ambiente aber route nicht so mega
|
|||||||
Sun 25th Oct 2020 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Sunneplättli | |||||||
6a+ 6b+ | Nid la ga | 25m | Average | ||||
Not sure if that rock to the right is fair game to stand on. If it is, it's a bit easier than 6b+.
|
|||||||
Sun 5th Apr 2020 - Urmiberg | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Merlin | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Short route with a good variation of moves
|
|||||||
Sat 1st Feb 2020 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
4b | S' Nüschti - with Anika, Nicky | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
mit Turnschuhen
|
|||||||
6a 5a | ★ Fieberkurve - with Anika, Jakob | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Interessante Kombinationen erst 2h klettern dann 2h Skifahren. Wenn der Fels bloß nicht so sch.. wäreü
|
|||||||
Sat 9th Feb 2019 - Urmiberg | |||||||
6a | ★★ Hunter - with Anika, Georges | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Winter!
|
|||||||
Wed 6th Jun 2018 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Space Monkey - with Anika | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
polished put nice moves : to hot
|
|||||||
Fri 25th May 2018 - Rigi - Hochflue | |||||||
Thedy's Gärtli | |||||||
5a 5c | ★★★ Edelwiiss - with Andrea | 150m | |||||
Reibkäse
|
|||||||
Fri 6th Apr 2018 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Tridwand | |||||||
4c | ★ Kowalzkipfeiler - with Flo | 35m | ★ Good | ||||
nice warm up route. cool slab section in the middle with nice washed out handholds and water runs in the limestone for the feets.
|
|||||||
5b | Schiffbug - with Flo | 35m | Average | ||||
hard start through the wide crack, good handholds and footholds in the mid section along the edge of the big smaller wall in front. really hard last 3 meters on a steep limestone wall section. i would rate the last part min. 6a+ and not a 5b
|
|||||||
5b | ★ Querdance - with Flo | ★ Good | |||||
realtively far away first clip but good footholds at the beginning. nice long crack through the whole route.
|
|||||||
Mon 27th Nov 2017 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Basilland | |||||||
6a+ 6b+ | ★★ Spargeltazan - with Anika | ★★ Very Good | |||||
if you climb the logical line: it is only 6a+
nevertheless very nice line
|
|||||||
Sun 9th Nov 2014 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Athletikus | |||||||
6a 6b | ★ Unknown Route 4 - with Anika | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
6a 6b | Unknown Route 7 - with Anika | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
4a 4b | ★ Nid lugg la - with Anika | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 18th Oct 2014 - Urmiberg | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Prinz Eisenherz - with Mirko | ★★ Very Good | |||||
|
|||||||
5c+ | Pinot - with Mirko | ★ Good | |||||
6c | ★ Moscato - with Mirko | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 18th May 2014 - Steigfadbalm | |||||||
5c+ | ★★ Spaceballs - with Anika | 160m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
very interesting
|
|||||||
Wed 30th Oct 2013 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
3a | ★ Pala - with Nicky | 20m | Average | ||||
Tim - Knoten im Seil!
|
|||||||
5b+ | ★ Schlusspirouete | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
polished start but the rest is nice and abrasive
|
|||||||
4a | ★★ Briefkästen | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
polished start but the rest is nice and abrasive
|
|||||||
Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
?1 (Unknown Route 2) | 12m, 10 | Average | |||||
GMT test local time is 02:15 on the 6 Oct
|
|||||||
5b | Schlange | 30m | Average | ||||
Test
|
|||||||
Tue 7th May 2013 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
5b+ | ★ Schlusspirouete | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
In competition for one of the best routes on this wall
|
|||||||
3a 3a - b | ★ Siebenschläfer | 20m, 10 | Average | ||||
Getting very polished. Rated as a 3 but with all the gloss feels so much harder
|
|||||||
4a | ★★ Briefkästen | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Still one of the best routes in Chämiloch.
|
|||||||
Sun 5th May 2013 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Abigwändli | |||||||
5b | ★★ SBB-Offerte | 10m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really fun route, so fun that I did it twice.
First bolt is one of the most "enjoyable" bolts i have made, manly because of the funny position I used for the hand hold. Well there is an even better position a little higher up, but it even on my second run up, I still used the fun hold |
|||||||
4a | New Route 1 | 8m, 6 | |||||
Rock felt all "slippery" from dust.
|
|||||||
Wed 1st May 2013 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
4b | ★★ Dülferplatte | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really nice climb would do it again.
|
|||||||
Tue 30th Apr 2013 - Chämiloch | |||||||
Hauptwand | |||||||
3c | ★ Plattige Verschneidung | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Really different climbing style for me so felt like 5b. Was still fun with all the lay backing.
|
|||||||
3b | ★ Platte | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Very nice for the first 15 meters lots of great holds and fun moves
|
|||||||
3a | ★ Pala | 20m | Average | ||||
Nice climb. Just remember to go past the first anchor
|
|||||||
Sun 27th May 2012 - Gersauer Klettergärten | |||||||
Schattewändli | |||||||
4b 4c | ★ Schatte | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Big reachy moves, fun and solid grips. Really worth the climb
|