Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 11th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Red Spring Area Coco Crag | |||||||
5.10b ~5.10a | ★★ Cocopuss | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 11th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Pine Creek Canyon Mescalito Dark Shadows Wall | |||||||
5.8 II | ★★★ Dark Shadows | 100m | ★ Good | ||||
Thought the last pitch was a write off, but the one long pitch (3) was really worthwhile.
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
First Pullout Classic Rock Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Un-break My Hold | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Climber's Paradise | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | Sends in Low Places | 12m, 5 | |||||
5.8 | ★ Oops I Sent It Again | 17m, 10 | |||||
Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Oak Creek Canyon Mount Wilson East Face | |||||||
5.10c IV | ★★ Inti Watana | 600m | |||||
Guided by Thomas Gilmore at Mountain Skills
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
First Pullout Tiger Stripe Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ A Fraction of the Action | 27m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Pine Creek Canyon Bridge Mountain Spectrum Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Birdland | 150m | |||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Juniper Canyon Rose Tower | |||||||
5.7 PG | ★★★ Olive Oil | 300m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Black Corridor South Wall, Upper Level | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Fool's Gold | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Black Corridor North Wall, Lower Level | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Burros Might Fly | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Red Spring Area Riding Hood Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Big Bad Wolf | 67m, 26 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout Sweet Pain Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Glitter Gulch | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout Meetup Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Pumpkin King | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Black Corridor South Wall, Lower Level | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Vagabonds | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11a | ★ Black Corridor Route 4 Left | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Black Corridor North Wall, Lower Level | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Friend | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
White Rock Spring Peak Angel Food Wall | |||||||
5.7 III | ★★★ Tunnel Vision | 230m | |||||
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Black Warm Up West | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Fin | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Pearl Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Jenna's Jewelry — 2 attempts | 3m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Sandstone Quarry Sandstone Quarry East The Pier | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Basement | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.11a | ★★★ Under the Boardwalk | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Sandstone Quarry Sandstone Quarry Central Wake Up Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Skidmark | 17m, 7 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Fall of Vegas | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10 | ★★ Elder Sibling | 14m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 7th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Sandstone Quarry Sandstone Quarry East Winston Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Man's Best Friend | 55m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 6th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout Great Red Book Area | |||||||
5.10a |
★★★ Reservations Required P1
- with
Mitch Lindbeck
1
| 76m, 23 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ The Front Matter - with Nicole | 70m, 19 | |||||
5.10a |
★★★ Reservations Required
- with
Nicole
1
2
3
| 76m, 23 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.7 |
★★ Cognitive overlap
1
5.7
25
2
5.7
25
| 50m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.6 | ★★★ The liner | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
First Pullout Dog Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Pleasure Dog | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | ★ Cat Walk | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
First Pullout Panty Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Panty Prow | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Panty Raid | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
First Pullout The Amusement Park | |||||||
5.7 | Haunted House | 11m, 4 | Average | ||||
5.7 | Bumper Cars | 11m, 4 | Average | ||||
Wed 5th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Black Corridor North Wall, Second Story | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Lewd, Crude, and Misconstrued | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ 757 2X4 | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Pine Creek Canyon Bridge Mountain Spectrum Area | |||||||
5.7 | ★★★ Birdland | 150m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Black Corridor South Wall, Upper Level | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Fool's Gold | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10a | ★ Dancin' with a God | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 4th Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Black Corridor South Wall, Lower Level | |||||||
5.9 | ★ The CEL | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Red Spring Area Gnat Man Crag | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | P-Coat Junction | Average | |||||
Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout Stone Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ April Fools | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Roto-Hamer | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Haunted Hooks | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 1st Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Juniper Canyon Rose Tower | |||||||
5.7 PG | ★★★ Olive Oil | 300m | |||||
Not what we set out to climb.. we had planned an assault on drifting. Antoines mate had told him it doesnt get done much so its probably sandbagged. We held our hope.. and.. made it to the 3rd bolt.. of the entire route. Antoine and i got sandbagged hard by this absolute mincer of a slab move that reeks of 5.12. Being north facing, there was still alot of snow and our fingers were freezing on the wall, but still. Fook. We took advantage of the approach by punching out a very alpine style ascent of olive oil with some questionable on-the-fly clove hitch simul cache adjustments. Copped a swim in the creek on the way down and a dirty bin feed disposed of by an angry mexican at a bbq house back in vegas. Ytbins.
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Apr 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Sandstone Quarry Sandstone Quarry North Secret 13 | |||||||
5.14a | Herbivour Dyno-soar | ||||||
Fri 31st Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Oak Creek Canyon Eagle Wall Area | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Levitation 29 | 300m, 20 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Despite paranoia that the wet rock police would come slash our tyres in the carpark, tony and i got up for sunrise brekky and tore into the park for the '1 to 3 hour' approach - 2:50 and we were booking it.. MP sandbaggers. We took tonys new tag line up apparently to tag a single jumper, but it came in handy on the way down when the estimated 72m rope turned out to be sub-70 and we had to beaner-block to get down. An approach first for both of us when tonys jacket loosely perched on top of his pack on the walkout got poached by a tree branch without him realizing till 15 min down the trail! It makes sense to ramble on about the approach cos it was half the day and featured some fun rock hopping in a beautiful canyon but being lyn hills favourite rock climb carries expectation and this route lived up to it. Absolute moves the whole way and the fang roof on p2 is insane. Im quite surprised and stoked to come away with the all onsight/clean despite 3 holds disintegrating on the final pitch and a bunch of other parts that could have gone either way. Spirits were high the whole day despite some backpacks being gnawed into by squirrels and a pack of HEB cookies was demolished dangerously quickly back at hotel contagion.
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Thu 30th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Gateway Canyon Yin and Yang | |||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Yin and Yang | 12m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thin hand traverse jugs with toe hook and swing! Most aesthetic crack ive ever seen. Antoine took some good gear whips. We convinced a californian kid there for tr solo to lead it as his first 11 on gear and it snowed on him. Still went to the chains, legend. Found an unguidebooked finger crack around the back of the area that climbed super nicely. Lucky we didnt multi today as planned, its axe weather out there.
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Tue 28th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Gallery | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Yaak Crack | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Epic top moves to the chains. Definitely the highlight of the gallery. Amazing views and sick holds. Hottest day so far aswell. Felt nice to climb without 3 jumpers on
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Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Beth Wald Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★★ Potato Chips | 5m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Warm Up Boulder | |||||||
V4 Hard | ★★ Donkey Punch Right | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tough for the grade but great movement and tricky feet.
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V2 | ★ Fluffer | 5m | Average | ||||
Reachy
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Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Burnout Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Jones'n | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Couldn't figure out how to do the mantel for way too long
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Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Hound Dog Arête | |||||||
V4 ~V3 | Pink Voltage | ||||||
Super soft?
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Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Butterfly Kiss Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★ crack right | ★ Good | |||||
Harder than it looks
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V3 | ★★ Butterfly Kiss | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Cool looking boulder.
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Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Hound Dog Arête | |||||||
V3/4 ~V4 | ★ Hound Dog Arete | ★ Good | |||||
Started with far right hold and left at the arete. Not sure if I did this as intended but it felt hard.
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Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Center Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★ Center | ★ Good | |||||
Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Kraft Boulders Lava Boulder | |||||||
V2 Easy | Left Left | ||||||
V2/3 Easy | Red Ball Jets | Average | |||||
V1 ~V3 | Squeeze Job | Don't Bother | |||||
Mon 27th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Juniper Canyon Wall of Cracks | |||||||
5.12a IV | ★★★ Cloud Tower | 270m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Arrived in the carpark and the third person i asked turned out to be alex, my climbing partner for the day from utah (splitterland). We trooped up to the wall after brekky in the carpark, i irresponsibly shed a layer to climb and we were off. Nice easy crack/scramble for about 130m. We had rockpaperscissorsd at the bottom to decide who leads odds and i thought id won seconding the 5.12 tips corner but mountain project combined the commonly linked first 2 pitches in the description so with grim acceptance, i staggered up to the interminable .2 crack. The clean run ended early in the game. A few pieces further, i climbed above the gear into a very tenuous position, pulled a cam off my harness, had a footslip and threw the cam off the cliff to grab a crimp and avoid the 3m whipper onto a bomber cam.. coincidentally the very night before, johnny sullivan had recounted this very act from the nico favresse carbondale shortbus video. Maybe he put the idea in my head. I took the whip. Alex was caught between "nice push dude" and "did you just lob my cam off pitch 4 of a multi?". Luckily it landed on the pitch 1 belay ledge and we could easily retrieve it on the rap down. I freed all the moves but doing the pitch as a send would be pump city.. especially as a committed layback (as the description hints). Whoever climbs it that way needs to contact me explaining how they get their fingers through the metal detector at the airport! Alex reckoned he laybacked some of it so maybe i could have asked him. Alex then made the best of a spooky run out 5.10 pitch after recommending out of my arse that we skimp on fist sizes. Then i climbed the 7m slot pitch, setting him up with the creek-style '5.10+' final pitch that turned out to be solid 11c. His difficulties on lead were not felt by me, basking on the ledge after the notch put us on the sunny west face. Hard catches only! We rapped down, packed the bags and rockhopped the pine creek bed back to the cars. A stellar day out on some of the finest red rocks in red rock
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Sun 26th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
First Pullout The Hamlet | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone | 27m | |||||
5.9 | ★★ The Die is Cast | 25m | |||||
Mon 20th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Sandstone Quarry Sandstone Quarry East Front Corridor | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Sound of Power - with Fabian Michel | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Very nice route. Did not figure out the crux move but also did not try that long. It is over the second bolt. Moving from a a side crimp and a crimp into a really good incut crimp. The rest feels hard on endurance but the moves seem doable.
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5.10c | ★★ To Bolt or Toupee - with Fabian Michel | 30m | Average | ||||
Quite sandy, feet feel like they can slip anytime.
Did not really enjoy the route.
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Sun 19th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Sandstone Quarry Sandstone Quarry East Front Corridor | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Monster Skank - with Klara R | 21m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Didn't have enough time to figure out all the moves, in particular the lower crux and the dyno. The moves I could do were already quite cool. The route uses the few available holds in a mostly blank and slightly overhanging face.
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5.12c | ★★★ Sound of Power - with Klara R | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Would have given it more tries but it started to rain, so we quickly had to take down our quickdraws. Felt definitely doable within a few tries, but I still would have to find good beta for the crux. Crimpy and shouldery route.
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5.10c | ★★ To Bolt or Toupee - with Klara R | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Couldn't do it with freezing fingers. I'm also not quite sure if this is the route we did, the guidebook is not so clear.
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Sat 18th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Juniper Canyon Brownstone Wall | |||||||
5.9 |
★★★ Armatron
- with
fab, Fabian Michel
1
5.5
lead by
Klara R
Very nice and easy warm up pitch. Only using the bolts should be fine if you are comfortable with the grade. Put one wire.
2
5.9
lead by
Fabian Michel
Very nice pitch. Goes along a crack that is mostly yellow but has some black features. Hardest part is protected by a bolt.
3
5.7
lead by
Klara R
Amazing long pitch with incredible black platina faces. Rock is super solid and it works great to but wires between the platina faces.
4
5.8
lead by
Fabian Michel
Nice pitch, it seemed a bit harder to me than the pitch before. After the forth pitch there is three bolts and then a shared pitch with the route next to Armatron on the left side. After that some slightly weird scrambling to the top. | 6m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 |
★★★ Armatron
- with
Klara R
1
2
3
4
| 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Unique and absolutely amazing climbing over a plated face.
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Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Oak Creek Canyon Oak Creek Bouldering Oak Creek - hillside right Blood Trails | |||||||
V5 Hard | ★★★ Blood Trails | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Gateway Canyon Mr. Moran and Adjacent | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Mr. Moran — 12 attempts | ||||||
Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Willow Spring Willow Springs Bouldering Willow Springs Main Area Peruvian Flake | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Bachar Problem — 12 attempts | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Gateway Canyon Sunny and Steep Crag | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Mr. Choad's Wild Ride - with Klara R | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice long route, mostly homogeneous with a harder part.
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5.12a | ★★ Steep Thrills — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Missed a jug in the onsight try.
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5.12a | ★★★ Gimme Back My Bullets - with Klara R | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Last route of the day, too pumped from the routes I did before. Still almost did it but fell at the last hard move.
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5.12a ~5.12b | ★★ Tour de Pump — 2 attempts - with Klara R | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice moves on good holds through the roof, then a bit easier on slightly worse holds on the headwall.
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5.12a | ★★ Sunny and Steep - with Klara R | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awkward clipping positions (or maybe I messed them up in the onsight).
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5.11a | ★★ Scorpions - with Klara R | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.11b | ★★★ Mr. Choad's Wild Ride - with Fabian Michel | 32m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice routes, but hard for 11b. Seems like very sustained 11b climbing. It is roughly 30 meters and almost every move feels like 11b
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5.12a | ★★ Steep Thrills - with Fabian Michel | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyed that route a lot. Could not do some of the clips and needs lots of endurance in the overhang
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5.12a | ★★★ Gimme Back My Bullets - with Fabian Michel | 15m | |||||
Too me it felt harder than steep thrills. But maybe I was already more tired. Has some bad holds in the overhang
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5.12a ~5.12b | ★★ Tour de Pump - with Fabian Michel | 15m | |||||
I had to come down because I could not get to the rock anymore before the 4th QuickDraw. Very far move at the second QuickDraw. When I do it both my feet are in the air. Really nice moves as far as I got, but for me it seems harder than 12a, the guidebook also says 12b.
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5.12a ~5.11d | ★★ Sunny and Steep - with Fabian Michel | 15m | |||||
Nice route, but also quite pumpy and far moves.
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5.11a | ★★ Scorpions - with Fabian Michel | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Quite pumpy for 11a I think. But I also did not find one of the jugs
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Wed 15th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Gateway Canyon Cannabis Crag | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Synapse Collapse - with Fabian Michel | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice climb in huge overhang with very good holds. A bit too overhanging for my endurance
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5.12a | ★★★ KGB - with Fabian Michel | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very nice route, will try again in lead. Fell once at the top. Don't forget the rather high and right foothold for the left foot for the far move at the last QuickDraw before the anchor.
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Wed 15th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Gallery | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Gridlock - with Fabian Michel | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
First route of the day. Quite nice.
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5.11c | ★★★ Yaak Crack — 2 attempts - with Fabian Michel | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice route, pumpy aswell. Did it once in lead and then in follow up. The first two bolts are probably the hardest. Then there is one more hard move towards the end. But did not send it .
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5.11c | ★★ A Day in the Life — 3 attempts - with Fabian Michel | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice climb. Slightly overhanging and pumpy. Hanging the first and second QuickDraw is a bit weird and scary. Was too pumped in the end to send it.
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Tue 14th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Red Spring Area Red Spring Bouldering Turtle Shell | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Monkey Wrench | ||||||
Tue 14th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Calico Basin Kraft Mountain Gateway Canyon Cannabis Crag | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Synapse Collapse - with Klara R | 11m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Extremely overhanging for the grade, but the holds are excellent. I don't think I ever climbed a route outdoors which was that overhanging and still that easy.
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5.12a | ★★★ KGB - with Klara R | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Overhanging climbing on good holds. Last route before the rain started
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Mon 13th Mar 2023 - Red Rock | |||||||
Second Pullout The Gallery | |||||||
5.11a | ★ Gridlock - with Klara R | 15m | ★ Good |