Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sun 28th Apr 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V7 Hard | ★★★ Room with a View - with Aurelia King | 7m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
So sharp so hard but so good! Got it in sections, guess I’ll need visit the central coast again
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
The climbing up to the last move is excellent and also varied… slopers, crimps, and small feet. The final dyno to crimp is a bastard though.
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
18 ~19 | Break a Piece for Me - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 3 | Average | ||||
The start is very spicy (and sharp) for the grade, but the rest is a walk, so I guess it’s close enough. Not that fun though…
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Sat 30th Mar 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Shelve it - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 3 | Average | ||||
Certainly gets you warmed up, but doesn’t get a great deal of traffic and it’s dirty AF
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Fri 29th Mar 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Room with a View | 7m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Got it in two sections. Bit of trouble in the middle transitioning weight.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 Hard | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Feels easier to just get through the committing 2nd half as quick as possible.
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19 Hard | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First run on top-rope to remember the beta
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19 Hard | ★★ Waffer Fingers - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bloody hard start for a 19, but with the awesome rest in the hueco, the rest goes fine. Good climbing.
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Sat 23rd Mar 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - with Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Another good working session. Changed beta at the top and stuck 1 time the huge dead point/dyno and found some micro foot beta.
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Sat 9th Mar 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - with Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Unlocked some sick Beta at the top on a brutal crimp proper hard finish but great climb and will come back
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
24 | ★ Right Out - with Lee Ogley | ||||||
Really good up until second bolt but no idea after then.
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24 Hard | ★★ Farout - with Lee Ogley | 8m | ★ Good | ||||
Proper polished holds on this and tough moves. Wasp nest on second last bolt so bailed.
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23 ~19 | ★ Agro Arete — 2 attempts - with Lee Ogley | 6m | Average | ||||
Surely this isn't 23. Good warm up.
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24 | ★ Right Out - with Sean Gallagher | ||||||
Felt bloody hard in the humidity
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23 | ★ Agro Arete - with Sean Gallagher | 6m | ★ Good | ||||
Not sure what makes this 23, but maybe height helps?
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Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
23 ~24 | ★ The Box - with Lee Ogley | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Absolute nails start and doest really get into easier. Felt a bit lost on this.
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22 Easy | ★★ Route to R of Rumba — 2 attempts - with Lee Ogley | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route nothing too cruxy with decent rests if needed.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins | 10m, 4 | Average | ||||
Rpt.
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon | 10m | Average | ||||
23 | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
You definitely can’t finish out left. The anchors are straight up on a large block in front of the dead tree. The final move is the longest. Very height dependent and no chance of holding the dyno sloper for my height even with toe hooks in the heat today.
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19 | ★★ Suspenders Will Do It | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Rpt, another bouldery number, probably my favourite route, had to brush sand out of all the incuts
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Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
This always makes me laugh for a 19, like many of that grade here, but it’s a nice climb.
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
25 ~23 | ★★ Ring Leader — 2 attempts - with Freya lamont | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Bailed left like the description says, definitely not 25 this way but a nice climb still!
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23 | ★ The Box - with Freya lamont | 15m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
Dropped the first move off the ground then pulled on again and climbed it clean to the top. Pretty dirty in the crack and as you get towards the top, well worth it despite that!
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22 | ★★ Route to R of Rumba - with Freya lamont | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice route, crux looked to be hanging the draws, thanks Freya!
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Sun 15th Oct 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - with Freya lamont | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Dropped the onsight slapping nothingness over the top, as close as you can get I guess. Figured out the final dyno after a few tries. Not sure if it's meant to top out via the sketchy block and mud pile or traverse left to the nice anchors??
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Suspenders Will Do It - with Jen Sartor, gaby | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
12 | Red Neck - with Jen Sartor, gaby | 12m | |||||
23 | ★★ Ring Leader - with Jen Sartor, gaby | 10m, 4 | |||||
Easy bail out left for 23.
Did not get 25 move
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23 | ★ The Box - with Jen Sartor, gaby | 15m, 9 | |||||
Many tires on start. On-site rest
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Sat 16th Sep 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - with LumpyCam | 10m, 4 | |||||
19 | ★ Roaches have cream centres - with Jen Sartor | 10m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - with Jen Sartor | 10m, 4 | |||||
Tue 12th Sep 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - with Jason Krishnan, Gordon Porter | 10m, 4 | |||||
Tue 5th Sep 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V14 | ★★★ Fourier's Proof | ||||||
Magic afternoon sitting atop the cliff after this
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Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Room with a View | 7m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 22nd Jun 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - with Eric c | 10m, 4 | |||||
Rpt
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14 | ★ Backyard Blitz - with Eric c | 12m, 2 | |||||
Rpt, but managed to use the crack this time as it was dry. Traversed left to the anchors on the arete to save rapping off.
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Sat 4th Feb 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
16 ~17 | Dave's Warmup | 6m | |||||
Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon - with Sean Gallagher | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great offwidth and a lot of fun. Used a 5 & 6 sized cam and kept bumping up.
Note: have changed style to Trad. Yes there are ring anchors to clean, but the carrots to the right are for the 23. Not a Sport route.
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Sagittarius - with Lee Ogley | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Struggled a bit on this. Feet seem to run out as you move across the traverse.
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23 | ★★ Techtonic - with Lee Ogley | 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A bit tricky getting to the last bolt then desperate finish.
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12 | Red Neck - with Sean Gallagher | 12m | Average | ||||
Covered in moss, so more careful than usual for the grade considering there’s only room for one cam halfway up.
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Mon 2nd Jan 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Put a Hot Wire Through my Head - with Sean Gallagher | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Sketchy finish, but excellent protection below. No anchors, so rapped off tree 6m back.
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Wed 28th Dec 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 Hard | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - with Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty easy to the middle until you get to the tough slopes then a wild dyno finish off a half decent sloper. Would be scary to commit on lead. Could be a classic with this type of finish.
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19 | ★★ Suspenders Will Do It — 2 attempts - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Few different styles thrown in makes this a really interesting and fun climb.
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Sun 11th Dec 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
23 | ★ Gonzo | 10m | |||||
The spiders on my body:successful ascent ratio finished at 0.6
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23 | ★★ White Out | 10m, 4 | |||||
Pumpy
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26 ~25 | ★★ Swine — 2 attempts | 12m | |||||
Complete misread at the very start stopped the onsight pretty quick. Cruisy second time round. Spider to ascent ratio still at 1
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19 | ★ Swing Left | 6m | |||||
The spiders on my body:ascent ratio maintained a nice round 1:1 on this climb
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21 | ★★ Juggy overhang to mad mantle | 7m | |||||
I would describe this route as a juggy overhang followed by a mad mantle.
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Sun 27th Nov 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Room with a View | 7m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 7th Nov 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V6 | ★ Kangaroos on the verandah | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Very fun
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V4 | ★ Slugs on the walls | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Surprisingly good for a slab
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V0 | ★ Trad dads in the corner | 3m | ★ Good | ||||
Traddy daddies will rejoice
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Sat 5th Nov 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ Rumba - with Sean Gallagher | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Annoyed I didn’t get the Onsight, as I messed up the very end. Went next go. Possibly my favourite climb on this wall to date. If you want to use gear too, a Green cam behind left flake and Red cam at the very top under the roof.
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18 | ★ Arête left of bb - with Sean Gallagher | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
14 | ★ Home improvements - with Sean Gallagher | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Spicier than it looks from the ground, as it’s so dirty. Used the carrots over to the right to clean.
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18 | ★ Arête left of bb - with Lee Ogley | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Couple cams down low to protect high first bolt. Terribly positioned anchors where you have to clean off the climb to the left so quite awkward. Needs ring bolts.
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21 | ★ Rumba - with Lee Ogley | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Awesome face climbing. Fun route. Used gear behind flake and at the top before the finish.
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Sat 17th Sep 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
18 | Gonzo's Girlfriend - with Sean Gallagher | 7m, 2 | Don't Bother | ||||
23 | ★★ White Out | 10m, 4 | |||||
Can't get the big throw
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23 | ★★ Hang Out - with Sean Gallagher | 8m, 4 | |||||
Been a while, so trying to remember the moves.
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19 | ★ Swing Left - with Sean Gallagher | 6m | |||||
Spider city
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19 | ★ Swing Left - with Lee Ogley | 6m | Average | ||||
Warm up with lots of spider webs
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23 | ★★ White Out - with Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stuffed up twice at the same part but now have beta sorted and feeling strong on the start. Hopefully next session.
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon - with Mitchell Legge | 10m | |||||
Inspected on arrival, unsure how this can be lead safely. The first bolt does nothing to help (too far away) and the others are also away from the climb itself.
If anyone else has climbed this sport, would love to see how.
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Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat - with Mitchell Legge | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon - with Kelvin Santos | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 10th Sep 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat - with Kelvin Santos | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 22nd Aug 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V14 | ★★ Sloths with Degrees | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sat 6th Aug 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
18 | Gonzo's Girlfriend | 7m, 2 | Don't Bother | ||||
Wierd route don't bother
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23 | ★★ White Out | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun route, pumped out at second last draw. Cool hard start. Another session on this might do the trick.
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Roaches have cream centres - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Although it’s dirty AF, this was a fun climb. Would be good to see more traffic on this.
Note - anchors were a nightmare to put bolt plates on. Could really do with ring bolts.
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19 | ★ Roaches have cream centres - with Lee Ogley | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Pretty cool climb especially the start. Absolutely shit carrot anchors at the top that are so shallow you can barely get bolt plates on.
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ Better Brakes than a Bobcat - with Lee Ogley | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Matched crimp campus start then fun face climbing. No jamming to be had on on this route.
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Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V13 | ★★★ Academic Revision | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Chill session by myself. No music, just the sound of the bush and nearby streets. Best 20-40 seconds of climbing in my life. Done the original way without top out but will be back for it.
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Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V10 | ★★★ Sinusoidal - with Tom Hodgson | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Did it a while back
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V10 | ★★ Standard Deviation | ||||||
V10 | ★★★ Sinusoidal | ||||||
Fri 29th Jul 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V8 V8/9 | ★★★ Room with a better view | 10m | |||||
V13 | ★★★ Academic Analysis | ||||||
Wed 29th Jun 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V11 V10/11 | ★★★ Sloths in the Attic - with William Frost-Foster | 15m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Such an amazing line
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Juggy overhang to mad mantle | 7m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sure enough the mantle was a bit mad. Really close bolts which was nice, one to come back to for sure!
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Sun 29th May 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ I Love Cats, Not! - with Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hard and very sequencey to the third bolt. Couple good rests in the middle and then hard pulling and thin feet for the finish. Not an easy route but very fun!
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Sun 8th May 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Shelve it - with Kelvin Santos | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - with Kelvin Santos | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★ Shelve it - with Mitchell Legge | 10m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - with Mitchell Legge | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ The Box | 15m, 9 | |||||
23 | ★★ Sagittarius | 15m, 7 | |||||
23 | ★★ Techtonic | 12m, 7 | |||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Backyard Blitz - with Sean Gallagher | 12m, 2 | |||||
Madness... main crack was filled with crud and soaking wet. Had to bail midway to another climb to the right with no protection past halfway. Most hectic trad send I've done!
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Waffer Fingers - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | |||||
Felt way too pumped to finish this clean. Another time
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14 | Chocoholic - with Sean Gallagher | 10m, 2 | |||||
Used a nut to protect the bottom section
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Backyard Blitz - with Lee Ogley | 12m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Started on this route and ended up finishing above the 21/22 due to vegetation, wet cracks and sandy holds. A strong lead by Lee Ogley with one of the biggest run outs I've ever seen on a few tiny brassies and sandy AF holds. No bolts were used. Hectic!
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Sun 20th Mar 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Waffer Fingers - with Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Hardish start with bolt plates but just about managing pump after that. Quite fun though!
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14 | Chocoholic - with Lee Ogley | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Warm up
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