Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dim 28 Avr 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V7 Difficile | ★★★ Room with a View - avec Aurelia King | 7m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
So sharp so hard but so good! Got it in sections, guess I’ll need visit the central coast again
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
The climbing up to the last move is excellent and also varied… slopers, crimps, and small feet. The final dyno to crimp is a bastard though.
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
18 ~19 | Break a Piece for Me - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
The start is very spicy (and sharp) for the grade, but the rest is a walk, so I guess it’s close enough. Not that fun though…
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Shelve it - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Certainly gets you warmed up, but doesn’t get a great deal of traffic and it’s dirty AF
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Ven 29 Mars 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Room with a View | 7m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Got it in two sections. Bit of trouble in the middle transitioning weight.
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Sam 23 Mars 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 Difficile | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Feels easier to just get through the committing 2nd half as quick as possible.
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19 Difficile | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
First run on top-rope to remember the beta
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19 Difficile | ★★ Waffer Fingers - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Bloody hard start for a 19, but with the awesome rest in the hueco, the rest goes fine. Good climbing.
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Sam 23 Mars 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 Difficile | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - avec Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Another good working session. Changed beta at the top and stuck 1 time the huge dead point/dyno and found some micro foot beta.
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Sam 9 Mars 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 Difficile | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - avec Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Unlocked some sick Beta at the top on a brutal crimp proper hard finish but great climb and will come back
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Sam 3 Fév 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
24 | ★ Right Out - avec Lee Ogley | ||||||
Really good up until second bolt but no idea after then.
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24 Difficile | ★★ Farout - avec Lee Ogley | 8m | ★ Bon | ||||
Proper polished holds on this and tough moves. Wasp nest on second last bolt so bailed.
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23 ~19 | ★ Agro Arete — 2 essais - avec Lee Ogley | 6m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Surely this isn't 23. Good warm up.
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24 | ★ Right Out - avec Sean Gallagher | ||||||
Felt bloody hard in the humidity
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23 | ★ Agro Arete - avec Sean Gallagher | 6m | ★ Bon | ||||
Not sure what makes this 23, but maybe height helps?
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Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
23 ~24 | ★ The Box - avec Lee Ogley | 15m, 9 | ★ Bon | ||||
Absolute nails start and doest really get into easier. Felt a bit lost on this.
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22 Facile | ★★ Route to R of Rumba — 2 essais - avec Lee Ogley | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun route nothing too cruxy with decent rests if needed.
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Sam 11 Nov. 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins | 10m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Rpt.
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Sam 11 Nov. 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon | 10m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
23 | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red | 10m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
You definitely can’t finish out left. The anchors are straight up on a large block in front of the dead tree. The final move is the longest. Very height dependent and no chance of holding the dyno sloper for my height even with toe hooks in the heat today.
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19 | ★★ Suspenders Will Do It | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Rpt, another bouldery number, probably my favourite route, had to brush sand out of all the incuts
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Sam 11 Nov. 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat | 10m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
This always makes me laugh for a 19, like many of that grade here, but it’s a nice climb.
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Dim 15 Oct. 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
25 ~23 | ★★ Ring Leader — 2 essais - avec Freya lamont | 10m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Bailed left like the description says, definitely not 25 this way but a nice climb still!
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23 | ★ The Box - avec Freya lamont | 15m, 9 | ★ Bon | ||||
Dropped the first move off the ground then pulled on again and climbed it clean to the top. Pretty dirty in the crack and as you get towards the top, well worth it despite that!
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22 | ★★ Route to R of Rumba - avec Freya lamont | 12m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice route, crux looked to be hanging the draws, thanks Freya!
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Dim 15 Oct. 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - avec Freya lamont | 10m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Dropped the onsight slapping nothingness over the top, as close as you can get I guess. Figured out the final dyno after a few tries. Not sure if it's meant to top out via the sketchy block and mud pile or traverse left to the nice anchors??
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Dim 8 Oct. 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Suspenders Will Do It - avec Jen Sartor, gaby | 10m, 4 | |||||
Dim 8 Oct. 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
12 | Red Neck - avec Jen Sartor, gaby | 12m | |||||
23 | ★★ Ring Leader - avec Jen Sartor, gaby | 10m, 4 | |||||
Easy bail out left for 23.
Did not get 25 move
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23 | ★ The Box - avec Jen Sartor, gaby | 15m, 9 | |||||
Many tires on start. On-site rest
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Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - avec LumpyCam | 10m, 4 | |||||
19 | ★ Roaches have cream centres - avec Jen Sartor | 10m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - avec Jen Sartor | 10m, 4 | |||||
Mar 12 Sept 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - avec Jason Krishnan, Gordon Porter | 10m, 4 | |||||
Mar 5 Sept 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V14 | ★★★ Fourier's Proof | ||||||
Magic afternoon sitting atop the cliff after this
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Lun 14 Août 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Room with a View | 7m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Jeu 22 Juin 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - avec Eric c | 10m, 4 | |||||
Rpt
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14 | ★ Backyard Blitz - avec Eric c | 12m, 2 | |||||
Rpt, but managed to use the crack this time as it was dry. Traversed left to the anchors on the arete to save rapping off.
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Sam 4 Fév 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
16 ~17 | Dave's Warmup | 6m | |||||
Lun 2 Jan 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great offwidth and a lot of fun. Used a 5 & 6 sized cam and kept bumping up.
Note: have changed style to Trad. Yes there are ring anchors to clean, but the carrots to the right are for the 23. Not a Sport route.
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Lun 2 Jan 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Sagittarius - avec Lee Ogley | 15m, 7 | ★ Bon | ||||
Struggled a bit on this. Feet seem to run out as you move across the traverse.
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23 | ★★ Techtonic - avec Lee Ogley | 12m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
A bit tricky getting to the last bolt then desperate finish.
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12 | Red Neck - avec Sean Gallagher | 12m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Covered in moss, so more careful than usual for the grade considering there’s only room for one cam halfway up.
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Lun 2 Jan 2023 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Put a Hot Wire Through my Head - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m | ★ Bon | ||||
Sketchy finish, but excellent protection below. No anchors, so rapped off tree 6m back.
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Mer 28 Déc 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
23 Difficile | ★★ Rather be Dead than Red - avec Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Pretty easy to the middle until you get to the tough slopes then a wild dyno finish off a half decent sloper. Would be scary to commit on lead. Could be a classic with this type of finish.
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19 | ★★ Suspenders Will Do It — 2 essais - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Few different styles thrown in makes this a really interesting and fun climb.
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Dim 11 Déc 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
23 | ★ Gonzo | 10m | |||||
The spiders on my body:successful ascent ratio finished at 0.6
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23 | ★★ White Out | 10m, 4 | |||||
Pumpy
|
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26 ~25 | ★★ Swine — 2 essais | 12m | |||||
Complete misread at the very start stopped the onsight pretty quick. Cruisy second time round. Spider to ascent ratio still at 1
|
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19 | ★ Swing Left | 6m | |||||
The spiders on my body:ascent ratio maintained a nice round 1:1 on this climb
|
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21 | ★★ Juggy overhang to mad mantle | 7m | |||||
I would describe this route as a juggy overhang followed by a mad mantle.
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Dim 27 Nov. 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V7 | ★★★ Room with a View | 7m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Lun 7 Nov. 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V6 | ★ Kangaroos on the verandah | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Very fun
|
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V4 | ★ Slugs on the walls | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Surprisingly good for a slab
|
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V0 | ★ Trad dads in the corner | 3m | ★ Bon | ||||
Traddy daddies will rejoice
|
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Sam 5 Nov. 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ Rumba - avec Sean Gallagher | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Annoyed I didn’t get the Onsight, as I messed up the very end. Went next go. Possibly my favourite climb on this wall to date. If you want to use gear too, a Green cam behind left flake and Red cam at the very top under the roof.
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18 | ★ Arête left of bb - avec Sean Gallagher | 12m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
14 | ★ Home improvements - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m | ★ Bon | ||||
Spicier than it looks from the ground, as it’s so dirty. Used the carrots over to the right to clean.
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|||||||
18 | ★ Arête left of bb - avec Lee Ogley | 12m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Couple cams down low to protect high first bolt. Terribly positioned anchors where you have to clean off the climb to the left so quite awkward. Needs ring bolts.
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21 | ★ Rumba - avec Lee Ogley | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Awesome face climbing. Fun route. Used gear behind flake and at the top before the finish.
|
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Sam 17 Sept 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
18 | Gonzo's Girlfriend - avec Sean Gallagher | 7m, 2 | Pas la peine | ||||
23 | ★★ White Out | 10m, 4 | |||||
Can't get the big throw
|
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23 | ★★ Hang Out - avec Sean Gallagher | 8m, 4 | |||||
Been a while, so trying to remember the moves.
|
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19 | ★ Swing Left - avec Sean Gallagher | 6m | |||||
Spider city
|
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19 | ★ Swing Left - avec Lee Ogley | 6m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Warm up with lots of spider webs
|
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23 | ★★ White Out - avec Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Stuffed up twice at the same part but now have beta sorted and feeling strong on the start. Hopefully next session.
|
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Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon - avec Mitchell Legge | 10m | |||||
Inspected on arrival, unsure how this can be lead safely. The first bolt does nothing to help (too far away) and the others are also away from the climb itself.
If anyone else has climbed this sport, would love to see how.
|
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Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat - avec Mitchell Legge | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Red Head Wall | |||||||
15 | ★★ Grand Canyon - avec Kelvin Santos | 10m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sam 10 Sept 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat - avec Kelvin Santos | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lun 22 Août 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V14 | ★★ Sloths with Degrees | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Sam 6 Août 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
18 | Gonzo's Girlfriend | 7m, 2 | Pas la peine | ||||
Wierd route don't bother
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23 | ★★ White Out | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun route, pumped out at second last draw. Cool hard start. Another session on this might do the trick.
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Dim 31 Juil 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Roaches have cream centres - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 3 | ★ Bon | ||||
Although it’s dirty AF, this was a fun climb. Would be good to see more traffic on this.
Note - anchors were a nightmare to put bolt plates on. Could really do with ring bolts.
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19 | ★ Roaches have cream centres - avec Lee Ogley | 10m, 3 | ★ Bon | ||||
Pretty cool climb especially the start. Absolutely shit carrot anchors at the top that are so shallow you can barely get bolt plates on.
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Dim 31 Juil 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ Better Brakes than a Bobcat - avec Lee Ogley | 10m | ★ Bon | ||||
Matched crimp campus start then fun face climbing. No jamming to be had on on this route.
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Dim 31 Juil 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V13 | ★★★ Academic Revision | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Chill session by myself. No music, just the sound of the bush and nearby streets. Best 20-40 seconds of climbing in my life. Done the original way without top out but will be back for it.
|
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Sam 30 Juil 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V10 | ★★★ Sinusoidal - avec Tom Hodgson | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Did it a while back
|
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V10 | ★★ Standard Deviation | ||||||
V10 | ★★★ Sinusoidal | ||||||
Ven 29 Juil 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V8 V8/9 | ★★★ Room with a better view | 10m | |||||
V13 | ★★★ Academic Analysis | ||||||
Mer 29 Juin 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Underworld | |||||||
V11 V10/11 | ★★★ Sloths in the Attic - avec William Frost-Foster | 15m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Such an amazing line
|
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Lun 13 Juin 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Bogas Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Juggy overhang to mad mantle | 7m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sure enough the mantle was a bit mad. Really close bolts which was nice, one to come back to for sure!
|
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Dim 29 Mai 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ I Love Cats, Not! - avec Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Hard and very sequencey to the third bolt. Couple good rests in the middle and then hard pulling and thin feet for the finish. Not an easy route but very fun!
|
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Dim 8 Mai 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Shelve it - avec Kelvin Santos | 10m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - avec Kelvin Santos | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
17 | ★ Shelve it - avec Mitchell Legge | 10m, 3 | |||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins - avec Mitchell Legge | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sam 30 Avr 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ The Box | 15m, 9 | |||||
23 | ★★ Sagittarius | 15m, 7 | |||||
23 | ★★ Techtonic | 12m, 7 | |||||
16 | ★ Hell No its Twins | 10m, 4 | |||||
Sam 30 Avr 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Better Breaks than a Kit Kat | 10m, 4 | |||||
Dim 20 Mars 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Backyard Blitz - avec Sean Gallagher | 12m, 2 | |||||
Madness... main crack was filled with crud and soaking wet. Had to bail midway to another climb to the right with no protection past halfway. Most hectic trad send I've done!
|
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Dim 20 Mars 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Waffer Fingers - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 4 | |||||
Felt way too pumped to finish this clean. Another time
|
|||||||
14 | Chocoholic - avec Sean Gallagher | 10m, 2 | |||||
Used a nut to protect the bottom section
|
|||||||
Dim 20 Mars 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Offspring Wall | |||||||
14 | ★ Backyard Blitz - avec Lee Ogley | 12m, 2 | ★ Bon | ||||
Started on this route and ended up finishing above the 21/22 due to vegetation, wet cracks and sandy holds. A strong lead by Lee Ogley with one of the biggest run outs I've ever seen on a few tiny brassies and sandy AF holds. No bolts were used. Hectic!
|
|||||||
Dim 20 Mars 2022 - Blackwall | |||||||
Kit Kat Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Waffer Fingers - avec Lee Ogley | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Hardish start with bolt plates but just about managing pump after that. Quite fun though!
|
|||||||
14 | Chocoholic - avec Lee Ogley | 10m, 2 | ★ Bon | ||||
Warm up
|