Routes in Eternity Area

1. 18m (-) As for Psychopath to traverse. Left to arete and cave.

2. 18m (15) Overhang on right. Up.

Corner 4m left of N. Undercut start, then corner to cave (use high poor fixed pin and extra wires). Traverse left to ledge (poor piton + cams). Go left 2m up overhang (cam on left) and runout up wall to 2 carrot belay.

Start as for the Phantom for 4m, left, then up to the end of the traverse.

Start 0.5m left of P.

1. 18m (16) Diagonally left and over roof. Right to arete and up to ledge.

2. 10m (15) As for P.

Start 4m left of ST. On the right wall of The Animal gully.

Start as for The Banshee. Up the L side of the arete past carrots to lower offs. One of the rare routes around here that gets afternoon shade.

Chimney system just right of Messiah's Exit. Enjoyable climbing that is mostly well protected (particularly if you sling the tree... twice). A cool outing for a hot summer day.

Starts on the left wall about 10m up the first pitch of The Animal. Tricky crack and roof to lower-offs.

It is serious if done the original way. But if you skip the boulder problem start and finish up The Messiah's Exit, it is a well protected classic. Start 1m left of The Animal. Arete, splitter finger crack, then L up dirty runout headwall.

The excellent finger crack of J into the excellent handcrack roof of ME. Lower offs added 26/5/2012.

Roof-capped corner 2.5m left of Judas.

1. 15m (-) Corner to roof. Left (crawl) to nose and ledge.

2. 24m (14) Wall on right.

Bad fixed pro! Start 1m left of M.

Jagged crack 6m left of Mortuary.

The slab 2m left of Joseph. Up past 3 carrots to 2 ring bolts as for Joseph. Small cams in breaks. Head right to the crack at the intermediate ledge.

There is a much harder variant that heads left from the ledge up past two old rusty carrots.

Short steep corner above Avago.

Start 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

Start 5m left again.

1. 12m (21) Corner, left to arete. Mantle. Steep wall to ledge.

2. 28m (-) Up to the right.

Start 4m left of Renegade.

Great committing climbing on quality rock. Start as for Joseph, climb the original first pitch, instead of going left following crack line, head straight middle of the pillar. Find only gear. Then head left onto arete and up until on top of pillar. Rap off Vinyl Idl bolts.

The line of rusty carrots a few meters left of Joslab at the blunt arete.

Probably not worth doing, but it does sound like an adventure. Start 4m left of J. Scramble to wide scrubby crack.

1. 21m (14) The flake. Looks like it would be much better after some gardening.

2. 28m (14) L and up. Right to ledge. Take care!

A few moves up Eternity, then right and up long face. Old bolts that seem ok, but the high crux is a series of chipped pockets.

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not Australia. Fantastic climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch. Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

1. 22m (18) Blast up the crack, you won't get lost. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

Start 6m left of Eternity.

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth! Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

Start 4m left of Pharoah, just L of the arete. Arete (small-med cams, ringbolt), then right at the level of the tree to join Pharoah. Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

Corner 2m left of SSCC1. Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above. 60m rope is fine for abseiling and lowering.

Roof above C.

Take extra hand-size cams, plus a big cam for the top. The 2 bolt belay (carrots) is easily missed - look for them very close to where you top out.

Direct line above 1st half of Psychopath. Start as for Psychopath.

Start up Neurotic Direct Start and follow the line of rings. Reachy. A medium cam can be placed between 2nd and 3rd bolts, but not really necessary.

Retrobolted by the FA in Oct 2010 to make it a "classic sport route". Traverse R out of the gully (as for The Banshee) then up R side of arete (RBs), to lower-offs around on left.

Start as for Joseph. Diagonally right to tree.

Rebolted Oct 2010, and loweroff added to eliminate the runout doddle finish (it's a 30m pitch if you continue past the new anchors to the top).

A slippery idea for a climb. As for SSCC1, but continue up the arete, onto easy ground (DRB). Best to lower off, but originally went to top of block, then arete behind.

Corner 4m left of A.

1. 24m (14 M1) To roof, aid around lip and up.

2. 18m (- M3) Aid, then free up wall. Keep right. Poor rock!