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Vie in Eternity Area

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Tutti 37 vie visualizzati.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
18 Executioner

Start as for Joseph. Diagonally right to tree.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

Sportiva 10m
24 R Easy Tiger

Great committing climbing on quality rock. Start as for Joseph, climb the original first pitch, instead of going left following crack line, head straight middle of the pillar. Find only gear. Then head left onto arete and up until on top of pillar. Rap off Vinyl Idl bolts.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2004

Trad 25m
14 Joseph
1 13 24m
2 14 22m

Start 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

  1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

  2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

FA: J Ewbank & E Saxby, 1964

Trad 46m, 2
18 Joslab

The slab 2m left of Joseph. Up past 3 carrots to 2 ring bolts as for Joseph. Small cams in breaks. Head right to the crack at the intermediate ledge.

There is a much harder variant that heads left from the ledge up past two old rusty carrots.

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

Trad mista 23m, 3
24 Warwick's Effort

The line of rusty carrots a few meters left of Joslab at the blunt arete.

FA: W.Payton, 1987

Trad 25m
23 D-Vinyl

Start 4m left of Renegade.

FA: T.Sorenson & M.Law, 1979

Trad 25m
14 R Mary

Probably not worth doing, but it does sound like an adventure. Start 4m left of J. Scramble to wide scrubby crack.

  1. 21m (14) The flake. Looks like it would be much better after some gardening.

  2. 28m (14) L and up. Right to ledge. Take care!

FA: J.Ewbank & E.Saxby, 1964

Trad 49m, 2
25 Right Wall of Eternity

A few moves up Eternity, then right and up long face. Old bolts that seem ok, but the high crux is a series of chipped pockets.

FA: M.Law & M.Stacey, 1987

Trad 25m
18 The Eternity

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not Australia. Fantastic climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch. Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

  1. 22m (18) Blast up the crack, you won't get lost. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

  2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

FA: J Moore & J Ewbank, 1967

FFA: Michael Law, 1978

Trad 22m
27 Left Wall of Eternity

Start 6m left of Eternity.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 28m
15 The Pharaoh

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth! Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965

Trad 33m
14 S.S.C.C.1

Start 4m left of Pharoah, just L of the arete. Arete (small-med cams, ringbolt), then right at the level of the tree to join Pharoah. Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

FA: J.Worrall & R.Templeton, 1966

Trad 25m
22 S.S.C.C.3

Rebolted Oct 2010, and loweroff added to eliminate the runout doddle finish (it's a 30m pitch if you continue past the new anchors to the top).

A slippery idea for a climb. As for SSCC1, but continue up the arete, onto easy ground (DRB). Best to lower off, but originally went to top of block, then arete behind.

FA: M Law & G Bradbury

Sportiva 33m
15 The Carthaginian

Corner 2m left of SSCC1. Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above. 60m rope is fine for abseiling and lowering.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

Trad 33m
24 Cruel and Unusual

Roof above C.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

Trad 25m
17 Psychopath

Take extra hand-size cams, plus a big cam for the top. The 2 bolt belay (carrots) is easily missed - look for them very close to where you top out.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

Trad 28m
19 Psychotic

Direct line above 1st half of Psychopath. Start as for Psychopath.

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

Trad mista 25m, 3
15 Neurotic
  1. 18m (-) As for Psychopath to traverse. Left to arete and cave.

  2. 18m (15) Overhang on right. Up.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall (DS.M.Law), 1966

Trad 36m, 2
18 Neurotic Direct Start
Sconosciuto 6m
20 Neil Diamond Syndrome

Start up Neurotic Direct Start and follow the line of rings. Reachy. A medium cam can be placed between 2nd and 3rd bolts, but not really necessary.

FA: V. Peterson, 2006

Sportiva 25m
14 The Phantom

Corner 4m left of N. Undercut start, then corner to cave (use high poor fixed pin and extra wires). Traverse left to ledge (poor piton + cams). Go left 2m up overhang (cam on left) and runout up wall to 2 carrot belay.

FA: J Ewbank & K Carter

Trad 31m, 2
19 The Scull Cave Eliminate

Start as for the Phantom for 4m, left, then up to the end of the traverse.

FA: J.Smoothy & S.Moon, 1985

Trad 30m
16 Synthetic Threshold

Start 0.5m left of P.

  1. 18m (16) Diagonally left and over roof. Right to arete and up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) As for P.

FA: G.Weigand & R.Thompson, 1980

Trad 28m, 2
14 R The Banshee

Start 4m left of ST. On the right wall of The Animal gully.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Trad 36m
17 Café Racer

Retrobolted by the FA in Oct 2010 to make it a "classic sport route". Traverse R out of the gully (as for The Banshee) then up R side of arete (RBs), to lower-offs around on left.

FA: M.Law & Lyle Closs, 1979

Sportiva 18m, 5
23 Café Debris

Start as for The Banshee. Up the L side of the arete past carrots to lower offs. One of the rare routes around here that gets afternoon shade.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1985

Trad 20m
12 The Animal

Chimney system just right of Messiah's Exit. Enjoyable climbing that is mostly well protected (particularly if you sling the tree... twice). A cool outing for a hot summer day.

FA: Ewbank, Worrall, Quinlan, Carter & Smith, 1965

Trad 35m
18 The Messiah's Exit

Starts on the left wall about 10m up the first pitch of The Animal. Tricky crack and roof to lower-offs.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1965

Trad 34m
19 R Judas

It is serious if done the original way. But if you skip the boulder problem start and finish up The Messiah's Exit, it is a well protected classic. Start 1m left of The Animal. Arete, splitter finger crack, then L up dirty runout headwall.

FA: J Ewbank & K Carter

Trad 32m
19 Judas-Messiah Connection

The excellent finger crack of J into the excellent handcrack roof of ME. Lower offs added 26/5/2012.

Trad 35m
14 R The Mortuary

Roof-capped corner 2.5m left of Judas.

  1. 15m (-) Corner to roof. Left (crawl) to nose and ledge.

  2. 24m (14) Wall on right.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Davis, 1965

Trad 39m, 2
24 R Morgue Wall

Bad fixed pro! Start 1m left of M.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1984

Trad 33m
14 Avago

Jagged crack 6m left of Mortuary.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Davis, 1965

Trad 33m
17 Avago (Ya Mug)

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery

Trad 35m
20 Pure S

Short steep corner above Avago.

FA: M.Law & C.Reece, 1977

Trad 11m
14 M3 The Gates of Eden

Corner 4m left of A.

  1. 24m (14 M1) To roof, aid around lip and up.

  2. 18m (- M3) Aid, then free up wall. Keep right. Poor rock!

FA: B.Osbourne & R.Reynolds, 1967

Artificiale 42m, 2
22 The Bells of Rhymney

Start 5m left again.

  1. 12m (21) Corner, left to arete. Mantle. Steep wall to ledge.

  2. 28m (-) Up to the right.

FFA: M & Law

FA: (Osbourne & Reynolds), 1967

Trad 40m, 2

Tutti 37 vie visualizzati.

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