A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jared Tyerman Nick Murphy Callum Mather Jake Forker Brendan Heywood LJ Nielsen Kallan Lauritsen Seb D Lang Nick Springall
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Trinity Beach
85 in Area
- 1.1. Taylor's Point 23 in Area
-
1.2.
North Trinity Bouldering 44 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Main Stack 38 in Area
- 1.2.2. Above The Treeline 2 in Boulder
- 1.2.3. Falcon Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.3. South Trinity Bouldering 18 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Trinity Beach 85 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -16.785588, 145.701387
description
Trinity Beach is a spectacular and popular beach just north of Cairns in Far North Queensland.
access issues
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.
approach
It is accessible by car by a 15 minute drive north from the Cairns International Airport. Access SPORT CRAG via Moore St, (access BOULDERING CRAG via Vasey Esplanade- use North Trinity Bouldering tab for more detail, or South Trinity Bouldering tab depending on where you're headed) drive straight onto dirt road which takes you straight to Taylor's point. Either drive or walk right (East) to headland and around south approaching Trinity Beach on rocks. First major cliff on right houses bolts for toprope and for lead. BEWARE OF BOLT AND CHAIN EROSION, THIS AREA IS EXPOSED TO WEATHERING.
where to stay
There is a range of accommodation available at Trinity Beach, from camping to luxury resorts.
ethic
Clean up wherever you go, take your rubbish, or any you find out with you. Brush chalk. So many of these areas are pristine and we should all make an effort to keep it that way.
Clean and brush but try minimise destroying vegetation. Steel wire brushes are okay in most places but avoid if possible.
Tick marks are ok, but please brush them off when you leave.
Please don't chip holds and do minimise contrived routes. Also minimise route beta in descriptions to ease onsight attempts.
For any route you create that you know is hard to find, please add in the lat and long in the route details / geotag it so it can be found using maps. Finding the routes in the rainforest can be hard.
1.1. Taylor's Point 23 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -16.775748, 145.695063
description
Small crag with a few sport routes and some scattered boulders.
approach
Drive to the end of Moore St in Trinity Beach. Park where the road changes to dirt with the barracades. Walk to the beach. Turn right heading east around the headland, you'll need to scramble a bit over some small boulders. After about 400m you'll see the cliff on the right. You'll have passed some boulders already once at the cliff. More are south past it.
history
Jari Ekstrom in the 1990's, see the QURANK guide produced by Lee Skidmore for more info.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Stubby WallThe first wall you reach from the carpark | ||||||||
2 | Project 1 | |||||||
3 | Project 2 | |||||||
4 | Project 3 | |||||||
5 |
Bold In The Hole
Sit start with jugs sitting directly below the hole in the top of the short cliff. Jugs galore to the top out. Set: Nick Murphy, 26 Apr 2020 FA: Nick Murphy, 26 Apr 2020 | VB | 2m | |||||
6 | Project 4 | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Small Pillars Wall | ||||||||
8 | Project 6 | |||||||
9 | Project 5 | |||||||
10 |
Jellylegs
Sit start at the bulge down and left of the gap. Pull up on all the jugs to the top out. Set: Nick Murphy, 26 Apr 2020 FA: Nick Murphy, 26 Apr 2020 | VB | 2m | |||||
11 | Project 7 | |||||||
12 | Project 8 | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Gaps In The Sand Wall | ||||||||
14 | Project 10 | |||||||
15 | Project 9 | |||||||
Main WallThe original area holding the older climbs here. See raised warning. | ||||||||
17 |
Unknown 19/23
Very easy start for first 5m (14) and last 6m is overhung with big pockets and a crack. It can be done directly (tape your hands) (23) or layback from crack (19). | 19 - 23 | 11m | |||||
18 |
★ Waldorf Saw A Therapist
Easier start to right of 19. Traverse into first bolt over flake. WARNING: ANCHORS (AND LIKELY BOLTS) SEVERELY RUSTED/CORRODED | 16 | 8m, 4 | |||||
19 |
★ Waldorf's Separation Anxiety
This climb is on the 2nd of the Trinity Beach cliffs at Taylor Point, right hand side. Starts below flake, goes up to high first bolt. WARNING: ANCHORS (AND LIKELY BOLTS) SEVERELY RUSTED/CORRODED | 19 | 8m, 4 | |||||
20 |
★ Unknown Name Corner Climb
Info taken from old QURANK Guide. Only mention that it's in the corner. Unable to locate any bolts. | 12m | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Bladed BlockBe wary of many of the flakes on this block, especially those on the seaside face at the top, many threatening to break off soon. | ||||||||
22 | Project 14 | |||||||
23 | Project 13 | |||||||
24 |
★★ Flakes A Lot Man!
Sit start at the base of the right facing blunt flake, pull up off sidepulls and stab for the flake to the left, head up onto the ramp, then follow thin seam and crimps to top out. Set: Nick Murphy FA: Nick Murphy, 3 May 2020 | V2 | 4m | |||||
25 |
★ Flakes For Joining Us
Sit start at blunt arete below the ramp. Pull up using the pocket, mantle onto the ramp and trend right to meet up with 'Flakes A Lot Man!' using the same crimp rail to the top. Set: Nick Murphy FA: Nick Murphy, 3 May 2020 | V1 | 4m | |||||
26 |
★ Be Bold, Don't Fold
Sit start at base of ramp to the left of the arete sitting on the block. Pull off slots above, pulling up onto ramp, then following straight up the arete on thin crimps to top out. Set: Nick Murphy FA: Nick Murphy, 3 May 2020 | V1 | 4m | |||||
27 |
★ Bladed block project
Set: Nick Murphy, 3 May 2020 | 4m | ||||||
28 | Project 16 |
1.2. North Trinity Bouldering 44 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -16.778321, 145.696813
summary
Abundance of "sharp" granite rock as outcrop, with plenty of routes and boulders, visible from the sand at Trinity Beach when looking North.
description
Jump onto the sand at Trinity Beach from the north carpark of Vasey Esplanade, look left (North), walk on the sand to the visible boulders at the beach's end. You will see Main Stack when you first get there. The boulders continue onward and around.
access issues
Time it around the daily tide surges. At high tide the waves do come up to the 'Keep of rocks - private property' signs' rock wall, but only to knee height with splash. Still not a great prospect in stinger season to walk through. Otherwise the actual boulders at the north end stay dry all day and there is always shade that can be found. See https://tides.willyweather.com.au/qld/far-north/trinity-beach.html for tides.
approach
Walk North along the sandy beach past the private property rock wall and 'Keep of rocks - private property' signs. The sand takes you along to the boulders scattered just at the north end of Trinity Beach.
ethic
Take ALL rubbish with you, and any you find there. Let's keep it pristine.
history
Mostly Jared Tyerman and Sean Reilly in the late twenty-teens.
1.2.1. Main Stack 38 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -16.778602, 145.697010
description
The section of rock you first approach at this crag.
On your right is a good beginner or warm up area. There are features such as a small stacked roof, cracks and overhangs, and has some stand-alone rock, lowballs, flakes and aretes. Some hard and tall climbs on the north side of the prominant boulder.
Mind the tides.
approach
Listed in the order you approach them in.
history
Crag saw a lot of attention from Jared Tyerman and Sean Reilly doing FA's in post-uni seshes in late 2016/early 2017 onward.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Oceanic Traverse
Traverse the long obvious rock that dips into the ocean. Be mindful not to dip your feet in Set: Jared Tyerman | V0 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Funky Chunky
Start far right, work pockets and incredible hidden undercling jug up weakness to orange patch. Nice pinch into jugs and topout Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★ Triangulate
To the right of IA seated at base of slopey arete left of FC, using face and arete holds. Pocket, undercling edge, slopers and 2 ridiculous pinches to get to rail and oval pocket to top. Low small feet and heels help. Big and vertical cracks are OUT. Contrived. FA: Jared Tyerman, 11 Apr 2019 | V5 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★ Illicit Arete
Sit start at the base of the arete, left of slab the slab wall. There is a small pocket for right hand low on arete. Follow arete keeping feet smeared slab, avoid use of left hand face. Perfect hold halfway. Rails just left of arete on face are in for V1, out for V2. Topout at top of arete. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V2 | 4m | |||||
5 |
Pocket Rocket
Start seated on rock, work up mostly through pockets that work as edges to vertical central crack with pocket. Edge left of this is in. Top out via crack and horizontal rails. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Eli Taylor | V3 | 4m | |||||
6 |
★ Don't Dab Slab
Stand start low- two underclings. Up through pockets. Then to edge and mini sidepull. Stay left of slight arete. To prow for topout. Harder for sit start, easier if stand starting using pockets straight away (i.e. not using undercling start holds). FA: Jared Tyerman, 15 Jun 2019 | V3 | 4m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
Magical Mystery Tour
Work from Funky Chunky's start to the far left of the Forewall. Thereby traverse all climbs here through the 2m section of the wall. Cool movements prior to the Pocket Rocket section of the climb. Top out as far left as you deem safe, ends above rocks not pads FA: Sean Reilly | V2 | 4m | |||||
8 |
Haul of the wall
Sit below crack, work jugs into crack, follow crack to flake-type feature and jugs and crack to top out. Exclude various features for V1 Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V0 | 4m | |||||
9 |
★ Epidermis Assemblage
Work far right to far left, using mint heels and toes and open hands on top hand grating edge, to jugs and the topout as far left as possible Set: Jared Tyerman | V3 | 2m | |||||
10 |
★ Santa's S'cr'ack
Sit in rocky hole, work left hand crack using wall features for V1, V2 for direct up crack without wall's aid Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 4m | |||||
11 |
★ Chimney of the North Pole
Offwidth crack essentially with staircase within Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V0 | 4m | |||||
12 |
★ Thing 1
Left hand arete of off-width Set: Jess Szekely FA: Jared Tyerman | V2 | 4m | |||||
13 |
★ Thing 2
Arete right of offwidth, bit more slopey than Thing 1 Set: Jess Szekely FA: Jared Tyerman | V2 | 4m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
Mulitple one-move-wonders
Using the underside as a sit start, use funky holds of choosing for many renditions of a one move wonder that tickles your fancy. Fair few there to try. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 2m | |||||
15 |
Le'Crack layback
The landing is a bit sketchy, first point to warrant mentioning. Follow the hand crack from bottom left to top right. Cleaning it each time helps remove the moss. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V2 | 4m | |||||
16 |
Headless Chook
Start low at far left of obvious ominous wall. Work face and arete up to roof. Top left of roof for easier and safer finish. BEWARE GUILLOTINE ROCK BELOW! Also feel free to top right over roof if you trust it as a free-standing piece. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V3 | 4m | |||||
17 |
Awkward Turtle
Pad the hole, start on the arete into chill sidepull holds and semi jugs/pockets. Be wary of scrappy feet. Topout through flaring crack-like weakness Set: Sean Reilly FA: Sean Reilly | V2 | 2m | |||||
18 |
★ Thin and lacking skin
Use FLIP's thin crack into finger lock, top out over and through crack right of horizontal flake. Start seated by the base of the i Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 2m | |||||
19 |
★ FLIP Off
Sit start on the flake surrounding the F on the Flip graffiti, work up and around and top out. FFA: Monica, 7 Apr 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
★ Leftover Sandwhich
Sit start with pocket and pinch on obvious overhang. Work to scoop, up left to diagonal rail. Gain left horn then miraculous jug rail at top. Topout with far back features or closer cracks. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Sean Reilly | V3 | 3m | |||||
21 |
Pinch and a Punch
Hard right most line of holds. Use none of the holds from LS except the 2 sit start holds and topout jug. All sharp edges (and one ultra micro). Jared Tyerman (Attempts & beta) FA: Callum Mather Set: Jared Tyerman | V7 | 3m | |||||
22 |
★ Amazing A'c'rachnid
Sit start underclining underside of major central flake (made possible by the spider who gave his home for this hold). Avoiding dabbing pointed flake behind. Follow into weakness diagonally up left, top above here. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V2 | 3m | |||||
23 |
★ Klingon
Arete just right of Gecko graffiti. Slopey compression after small edges. Tops after high dark pinch. Harder starting off right edges and traversing into arete. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman, 17 Apr 2019 | V3/4 | 3m | |||||
24 |
★ Sheba
Same as for SD except that the right wall is IN for feet/hands. FA: Sean Reilly | V3/4 | 3m | |||||
25 |
★★ Sheba Direct
Sit at low left diagonal crack. Move up and right to dihedral finger crack opening using foot holds on face only (right opposing wall is OUT). Gain higher vertical rail and above edge. High right diagonal pinch and/or lip for topout. FA: Jared Tyerman, 26 Mar 2019 | V6 | 3m | |||||
26 |
★★★ Thy Holy Arete
Sir Reilly dubs upon thee: Sinner, repent for the Lord hath delivered upon your unworthy flappers Thy Holy Arete! Climb the left side of the proudest arete in all the land. FA: Callum Mather Set: Sean Reilly | V5 | 5m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
★ Tap Hollow
Use hollow jugs for fun flying up route Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V0 | 3m | |||||
28 |
★ Bubble crack
Use bubbly crack to get to top Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 3m | |||||
29 |
Bubble arete
Start sitting at arete's base, into bubble features to topout Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 3m | |||||
30 |
★ Sitting on the fence
Start seated with pad on spikes, work into crossing holds and then jug to topout. Cool movements. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V2 | 3m | |||||
31 |
★★ Direct dyno
Work 3 obvious jugs or 2 as a dyno. Mind the spiders in the holds Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V0 | 3m | |||||
32 |
★★ Insect Arete
Start seated on point of rock to wide arete to nice curved rail, minding all the while the guillotine here below as well. Pad well Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V2 | 3m | |||||
33 |
★ Double crimp arete
Sit start the block into undercling to second block to stand on, use two crimps if you're ballsy rather than top of rock to top out (And don't be a Dave and get eaten by skinks haha) Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 4m | |||||
34 |
Face your left
High ball, use features at left of face and go up, end is a bit scarce, just face it and topout Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 5m | |||||
35 |
★ Face Front and Centre
Work holds in centre of wall, end again is slightly scarce of holds working cenral due to angles. But works, topout Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 5m | |||||
36 |
★ And a face to the riii-iight
Use crack and holds left of crack for cruisy sailing to the top Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V0 | 5m | |||||
37 |
★ The wanderer's crack
Use crack direct working to flared section and topout. Mind loose sounding section 3/4 of the way up. Should be solid. Use pockets right of crack with crack for V0 Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 5m | |||||
38 |
Outright
Uses pockets right of Wanderer's crack and into flake to pocket and jug topout via mantle Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V1 | 5m |
1.2.2. Above The Treeline 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -16.778497, 145.696797
description
When topping out of the Shorewall, look West into the trees, and you will see a large boulder in the canopy.
approach
Walk up escarpment from the platform at the Sheba climb for about 20m. Dart through the scrub, up a mossy boulder, under some vines and over a 1.5m drop/hole. Look up and you will see an overhang with an above face. This is the boulder.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Arete Project
Big moves between fragile holds. Gnarly drop into hole below makes it a little uninspiring. Set: Jared Tyerman | 6m | ||||||
2 |
Gladiator
Start low on crimp right of the arete and wobbly crimp just left of arete. Traverse left on small edges before mantling and finishing up the slab. FA: Callum Mather Set: Jared Tyerman | V7 | 6m |
1.2.3. Falcon Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -16.777990, 145.696563
description
Walk past the msin climbing areas until you see a boulder that resembles the head of a falcon from the distance. Here lies a slopey overhung cave requiring core to keep you off the ground.
There is another cave further on but it houses bats and is a bit too crumbly for use, so let's leave that one untouched.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Cave roof
Work from as far in as possible then out to the slopey openhands and final jugs to topout on sharp features. Set: Jared Tyerman FA: Jared Tyerman | V2 | 2m | |||||
2 |
★ Peregrine
Start on right side of boulder with 1/3 and 2/3 height ledge holds (can start further along but holds crumble). Traverse ledges down into hollowed out roof. Topout on features above roof. FA: Jared Tyerman, 7 Aug 2019 | V3 | 2m | |||||
3 |
★★ Combined Efforts
On hill side of boulder. Sit start with two underclings halfway in roof. Work to quarts vein rail, then to far left edge and jug feature just beyond. Gain lip and topout (can also traverse left on lip and then topout). Sharp rock. Tape up and brush start holds. Some glass in further than start position to be mindful of. FA: Jared Tyerman, 9 Jun 2019 | V3/4 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Kestrel
Same start as CE but with closer feet pushing you toward lip. Direct to right dark edge and then lip for topout. Tape up. FA: Jared Tyerman, 10 Jun 2019 | V4 | 2m |
1.3. South Trinity Bouldering 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -16.792040, 145.706746
description
A few small tame lines on some stand alone rocks south of the guard rail lookout and seat. Cool thing to spend the afternoon or early morning on.
approach
Park at the south end of Vasey Esplanade at Trinity Beach. Walk south along the sand of Trinity Beach to the pathway and follow to the lookout with the guard rail and bench seat. Walk beyond above the guard rail further south. Can either walk along the low angle cliff/slab or above this using the dirt track. Be mindful though that the track gets a little steep at the south end when you turn off it and head down toward the boulders. The slab is easier to walk along but it is recommended to be a confident walker or rock hopper to go this way. Follow to where the concrete steps emerge and continue down and south until the boulders emerge (large slab, little wall, and long pocketed boulder).
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
1a
Up right arete stand/squat start | V0 | 5m | |||||
2 |
★ 1a.i.
High foot sit start to arete problem | V3 | 5m | |||||
3 |
★ 1b
Up slab face with edges to hollow feature and top | V0 | 5m | |||||
4 |
★ 1c
Up green moss/lichen covered arete left of slab. Nice feet for start. Not too sharp. Sit start. | V1 | 3m | |||||
5 |
1d
Up semi chunky slab starting at orange colouration | V1 | 4m | |||||
6 |
1e
Up layback crack | V0 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
2a
Far left bulges - sit | V0 | 3m | |||||
8 |
2b
Next right mini pinch start - sit | V0 | 3m | |||||
9 |
2c
Next right layback with black vertical edge - sit | V0 | 3m | |||||
10 |
2d
Next right layback feature - sit | V0 | 3m | |||||
11 |
2e
Next right laybacking up obvious split/vertical ledge - sit tucked | V0 | 3m | |||||
12 |
★ 2f
Next right up slab face using edges, smear, toe pocket, side pull and top. Both aretes are out - sit | V1 | 3m | |||||
13 |
2g
Up right arete starting seated on fallen block. Some face features used. Start foot on opposing slab in back of cavern - in. | V0 | 3m | |||||
14 |
2h
Up small block's left arete. Smears for feet only on low left dark vertical rock - sit | V0 | 2m | |||||
15 |
2i
Up layback | V0 | 2m | |||||
16 |
2j
Up right arete. Slightly on right side - sit | V0 | 2m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★ 3a
Traverse left to right, sit start matched on long edge. Stay low. | V2 | 3m | |||||
18 |
3b
Any conceivable line up, capping at around V2. | 3m |