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Fitzroy Island Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Callum Mather Tim Janetzki

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Fitzroy Island 23 routes in Area

Summary:
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Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -16.930681, 145.995157

summary

A pristine island off the coast of Cairns with large granite boulders scattered from the beach to the summit

description

Tropical island with beautiful beaches, rainforest, marine life and boulders.

access issues

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

inherited from Cairns

approach

Catch a ferry (45min) from Cairns to Fitzroy Island

where to stay

The island resort offers accommodation ranging from tent sites to bungalows.

ethic

National park, be very careful not to crush flora when deviating from the walking trails.

1.1. Nudey Beach 0 routes in Area

summary

Voted Australia’s best beach in 2018 it’s a cracker of a spot for climbing. To the right are tidal boulders, to the left are jungle boulders.

description

Beachside boulders to the right of the beach. Lots of potential, low tide advantageous

approach

Hike long the Nudey Beach track passing Foxy’s Bar for approx. 10-20min

1.2. Nudey Beach Track Boulders 2 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -16.933533, 145.985968

summary

Forest boulders along the path to Nudey Beach

description

Large granite forest boulders on both sides of the track. Take care not to destroy vegetation or soil when approaching the boulders.

approach

Walk past Foxy’s Bar along the Nudey Beach track

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Reverie

Awesome highball problem. Hand to offwidth crack trending left up the black face. Top out is vegetated so watch out for lawyer vine.

FA: Tim Janetzki, 9 Sep 2021

V3 Boulder 11m
2 Weaver Ant’s Riposte

Look for the white scooped Boulder to the left, just before the small 7 sign. Stand start layback on large flaring crack. Up finger crack trending left. Take care when topping out, lots of lawyer vine

V5 Boulder 4m

1.3. Summit Boulder Field 6 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: -16.928830, 145.996237

summary

Big Boulders at the Summit!

description

A large sprawling boulder field covering the summit and surrounds offering awesome views of the bay. Very windy

access issues

Take care when venturing off trail, stick to rock hopping to get the boulder of choice.

1.3.1. The Thimble 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -16.928750, 145.996580

description

Huge chunk of weathered granite, slab at the back, highball overhangs at the front

approach

50m West from the summit lookout

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tall Tales

Start off high ledge on the right. Work your way up the arete via scoops and crimps. Tall and awesome.

V2 Boulder 8m
2 Whale Tale

Stand start on double gastons, move through the black and gold streak on small crimps. Gain the arete and finish as for Tall Tales.

V7 Boulder 8m
3 Excalibur

Stand start on small crimps, bust up the face to the top!

BoulderProject 9m
4 Nimble Thimble

Up the slab to the top, take care on the way down.

V0+ Boulder 9m

1.3.2. The Gruffalo Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Gruffalo

Stand start with slopey edge on face and pinch on arete. Move up the arete with pinches and a crimp before gaining the left arete and mantling.

V5 Boulder 3m

1.3.3. Kimbo's Slice 1 route in Boulder

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -16.928846, 145.996256

description

Nice finger crack with good landing. Can be easily seen when looking towards the summit lookout when at The Thimble

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Kimbo's Slice

Stand start with fingers low in crack, jam the way up!

V4 Boulder 3m

1.4. White Rocks 15 routes in Area

Summary:

description

Good climbs with reasonably easy access, everything from easy moderates to harder projects.

approach

Follow coast around past White Rock to find quality boulders scattered along the beach.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jammin'

Start low in the crack at back of triangle cut out. Stem your way up and out!

V0 Boulder 2m
2 Crab Squat

Sit start compressing arete. Smear the feet and away you go.

FA: Scotia & Moby

V1 Boulder 2m
3 okinawae

Start with good right foot and right hand sidepull. Straight up the face through the flakes to an easy top out.

FA: Moby

V0 Boulder 4m
4 Scoopy Doo

Start in scoop facing outward with feet on big slopey edge and palms pressing low on inside of scoop. Wrestle your way out via hard palm press in roof.

V5 Boulder 2m
5 Flu

Sit start with left hand slot and right heel hook, RH on whatever works. Up n' left.

V2 Boulder 2m
6 Fly

Start on lowest good edge rail, go straight up the steepness via big moves on jugs.

V1 Boulder 2m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Greasy Traverse

Start at the bottom of the lip, traverse left and mantle just before the corner.

V0 Boulder 3m
8 The Back Scratcher Dyno

Start on jug, launch to lip.

BoulderProject 3m
9 Elbow Grease

Start low on jug rail, use small sidepull in seam and slopey left gaston to follow the corner up and out. Goodluck keeping your left elbow from dabbing.

V6 Boulder 3m
10 Pedal to the Metal

Start in break above water, climb juggy crack.

V1 Boulder 2m
11 Gelateria

Sit start on good flake, make your way out the scoop via underclings. Follow the lip left before mantling up the nothingness.

V8 Boulder 3m
12 Triple Scoop

Start sitting in the perfect seat feature at the back of the scoop, contort your way out before moving left and up.

V3 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 5°C

Start low right on jug, slap and squeeze your way up the perfect fridge feature.

V4 Boulder 3m
14 The Sharkfin

Stand start compressing the aretes, slap up to the lip and follow it to the apex before mantling.

V3 Boulder 5m
15 Boat Ramp

Start up the ramp and follow the arete to the apex of the fin before mantling.

V0 Boulder 5m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
V0 Boat Ramp Boulder 5m 1.4. White Rocks
Greasy Traverse Boulder 3m 1.4. White Rocks
Jammin' Boulder 2m 1.4. White Rocks
okinawae Boulder 4m 1.4. White Rocks
V0+ Nimble Thimble Boulder 9m 1.3.1. The Thimble
V1 Crab Squat Boulder 2m 1.4. White Rocks
Fly Boulder 2m 1.4. White Rocks
Pedal to the Metal Boulder 2m 1.4. White Rocks
V2 Tall Tales Boulder 8m 1.3.1. The Thimble
Flu Boulder 2m 1.4. White Rocks
V3 Reverie Boulder 11m 1.2. Nudey Beach Track Boulders
The Sharkfin Boulder 5m 1.4. White Rocks
Triple Scoop Boulder 3m 1.4. White Rocks
V4 Kimbo's Slice Boulder 3m 1.3.3. Kimbo's Slice
5°C Boulder 3m 1.4. White Rocks
V5 Weaver Ant’s Riposte Boulder 4m 1.2. Nudey Beach Track Boulders
The Gruffalo Boulder 3m 1.3.2. The Gruffalo Boulder
Scoopy Doo Boulder 2m 1.4. White Rocks
V6 Elbow Grease Boulder 3m 1.4. White Rocks
V7 Whale Tale Boulder 8m 1.3.1. The Thimble
V8 Gelateria Boulder 3m 1.4. White Rocks
? Excalibur BoulderProject 9m 1.3.1. The Thimble
The Back Scratcher Dyno BoulderProject 3m 1.4. White Rocks
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