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Routes in Begegnung Wall

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Showing all 12 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
23 Mum's Route (Never Stop Gibbin' Direct)

From the last bolt of 'Never Stop Gibbin'', head left to another bolt before gaining the major horizontal, then up past another 2 bolts to chains. If you don't like the space between the last two rings, bring some gear for the seam (eg small-med wire). Great climbing.

Sport 30m Victoria Range
1980
17 Begegnung

Nice line, nice climbing. Good rock. Retro-bolted accidentally.

Step on chockstone below open book corner in the middle of the wall to gain good horizontal break. Move right on mossy slab into corner proper. Up past FH to steep well protected conclusion. Rap station on ledge.

FA: Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, Glenn Donahue & Russel Paul, 1980

Mixed trad 20m, 1 Victoria Range
1995
16 15 Years On

Up the corner and face to the horizontal break. Traverse right to belay as for "Begegnung"

Start: Start 6 metres left of "Begegnung"

FA: Glenn Donohue & Mark Poustie, 1995

Trad 26m Victoria Range
2007
20 Retro-futurism

A continuation to Begegnung

  1. 20m (17) Up Begegnung to rap station on ledge.

  2. 15m (3) Walk right (facing the cliff) on ledge and up to terrace.

  3. 15m (20) Blast steeply up the left side of the juggy steep face passing two amazing (yet to be done) left traverses about 2m apart (vertically). Belay at ledge. A rap station here would be useful.

FA: Josef Goding, Naomi Gibbs & Scott Ambridge, 2007

Trad 50m, 3 Victoria Range
2008
21 Never Stop Gibbin'

Great thin technical face climbing.

Start 2m left of "Begegnung". Tricky layback start, then delicately up face past 5 U-bolts. At the 5th bolt head up rightwards (ie ignore the sixth bolt out left; that's for the direct finish) to mantle onto the ledge (can protect with .75 cam and long draw), then traverse right to belay/rap station of 'Begegnung'.

FA: Naomi Gibbs, 2008

Sport 20m, 5 Victoria Range
24 Chess Nerds Unite

An unlikely line that features a fierce crux at the end.

Start as for 'Begegnung'; at the bolt follow the horizontals rightwards (a bit up and down) for about ten meters to an obvious corner which you move up for a move or two, then step right again past another little corner onto a rest, before finishing easily to rap anchor.

FA: Ross Taylor, 2008

Mixed trad 30m, 1 Victoria Range
2009
27 Don't Make a Monster of Your Mind

Starts in cave where cliff meets the little creek, and climbs the steep wall just left of arete. A brutal jump start off a crimp (add a rock if you are short), leads into some enjoyable wrestling and technical finish.

FA: Ross Taylor, 2009

Sport 15m, 6 Victoria Range
2012
21 Physical therapy

Good technical face climbing up to and through a shallow corner. Start off big block 10m right and around corner from DMAMOYM . Follow ring bolts. (The third ring is very hard to clip, and is quite dangerous if you blow it)

FFA: Catherine de Vaus & Adam Demmert, 2012

Sport 10m, 4 Victoria Range
27 Proprioception Lost

Tricky climbing up an overhanging seam, with a good measure of dynos and technique required. Joins CNU for a few moves before finishing up arete, no. 1or 2 camalot required.

FFA: adam demmert, 2012

Sport 15m, 5 Victoria Range
21 9 out of 10 ain't bad

Start of same boulder as PT. Surprisingly continuous climbing heading up and right with a tricky crux.

FFA: James Scott-Bohanna, Catherine de Vaus & Adam Demmert, 2012

Sport 12m, 5 Victoria Range
2013
21 7 of 9 is Lovely

Start down right of 9 oo 10 in creek bed. Follow 3 FHs to join 2nd FH of 9 oo 10

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2013

Sport 15m, 7 Victoria Range
25 Borg

Start up 1st 2 FHs of 7 of 9. Traverse right up past 3 FHs to join 9 oo 10 at its 4th FH

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2013

Sport 15m, 7 Victoria Range

Showing all 12 routes.

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