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Begegnung Wall

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Description

About 300m further along from 'Rain Wall' (just before the creek) is a lovely looking 40m high yellow/orange wall capped with a big roof.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the corner and face to the horizontal break. Traverse right to belay as for "Begegnung"

Start: Start 6 metres left of "Begegnung"

FA: Glenn Donohue & Mark Poustie, 1995

Great thin technical face climbing.

Start 2m left of "Begegnung". Tricky layback start, then delicately up face past 5 U-bolts. At the 5th bolt head up rightwards (ie ignore the sixth bolt out left; that's for the direct finish) to mantle onto the ledge (can protect with .75 cam and long draw), then traverse right to belay/rap station of 'Begegnung'.

FA: Naomi Gibbs, 2008

From the last bolt of 'Never Stop Gibbin'', head left to another bolt before gaining the major horizontal, then up past another 2 bolts to chains. If you don't like the space between the last two rings, bring some gear for the seam (eg small-med wire). Great climbing.

Nice line, nice climbing. Good rock. Retro-bolted accidentally.

Step on chockstone below open book corner in the middle of the wall to gain good horizontal break. Move right on mossy slab into corner proper. Up past FH to steep well protected conclusion. Rap station on ledge.

FA: Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, Glenn Donahue & Russel Paul, 1980

A continuation to Begegnung

  1. 20m (17) Up Begegnung to rap station on ledge.

  2. 15m (3) Walk right (facing the cliff) on ledge and up to terrace.

  3. 15m (20) Blast steeply up the left side of the juggy steep face passing two amazing (yet to be done) left traverses about 2m apart (vertically). Belay at ledge. A rap station here would be useful.

FA: Josef Goding, Naomi Gibbs & Scott Ambridge, 2007

An unlikely line that features a fierce crux at the end.

Start as for 'Begegnung'; at the bolt follow the horizontals rightwards (a bit up and down) for about ten meters to an obvious corner which you move up for a move or two, then step right again past another little corner onto a rest, before finishing easily to rap anchor.

FA: Ross Taylor, 2008

Tricky climbing up an overhanging seam, with a good measure of dynos and technique required. Joins CNU for a few moves before finishing up arete, no. 1or 2 camalot required.

FFA: adam demmert, 2012

Starts in cave where cliff meets the little creek, and climbs the steep wall just left of arete. A brutal jump start off a crimp (add a rock if you are short), leads into some enjoyable wrestling and technical finish.

FA: Ross Taylor, 2009

The following routes start around the corner from 'Don't Make a Monster of Your Mind'. The wall faces south, and is often dirty due to seepage.

Good technical face climbing up to and through a shallow corner. Start off big block 10m right and around corner from DMAMOYM . Follow ring bolts. (The third ring is very hard to clip, and is quite dangerous if you blow it)

FFA: Catherine de Vaus & Adam Demmert, 2012

Start of same boulder as PT. Surprisingly continuous climbing heading up and right with a tricky crux.

FFA: James Scott-Bohanna, Catherine de Vaus & Adam Demmert, 2012

Start down right of 9 oo 10 in creek bed. Follow 3 FHs to join 2nd FH of 9 oo 10

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2013

Start up 1st 2 FHs of 7 of 9. Traverse right up past 3 FHs to join 9 oo 10 at its 4th FH

FA: Ramon Francis & Dale Rankin, 2013

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Sun 30 Apr
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