Routes in KP North

Historical: At the 3rd carrot (now covered by shotcrete) on A Bum Full Of Fists, go Right, up angled corner to top past BR and top out. This route is now obsolete, with BCC having shotcreted the middle section, making the climbing harder, and dangerous, missing critical bolts.

Description added for historical purposes only: 2016 council works have now completely changed this classic route: the crucial 2 carrots below the overhang, are now covered in shotcrete, making the grade harder, and a dangerous 7-8m runout from a dodgy drill hole sling.

Obvious arete left of stairs. Start up face to carrot at 4m, then up to small ledge. Up loose corner on jugs passing a BR (now covered), drill hole sling, then a BR (now covered). Reach left around arete to clip BR and swing left and up overhang (crux) to slab (BR). Up this placing a wire in crack to top.

Start: Just left of ABFOF below the inside corner (alternatively, just right of Light Box #14). Up broken rock to a carrot out left, up right to a stance on a block & 2nd carrot, then delicately up corner to 3rd carrot on face, above, continue up smooth corner to 4th carrot next to tree on face, then continue up passing another carrot. Uncertain as to whether or not the anchors are still there, following BCC's rock scalling & shotcreting of the upper cliff.

Rebolted. 5 ring bolts lead the way.

Start: In front of Light box #14; At the blank face, about 5m left of the inside corner route (Gumby's Demise). Climb the broken face to a low first RB at 3m, up to ledge, passing another RB at 5m, difficult mantle, then up face, past another 3 RBs to chains out left under branches (shared with Oh Mighty Gumby). Note: There's a big 10-12m run-out over easier ground from the 2nd to 3rd RB, if you want, there are trad placements (crack) between these two bolts.

Good, continuous climbing.

Start: At the broken face, about 2m left of Lord Gumby. Up the easy blocks to a high first bolt, then very thin moves (crux), to 2nd RB, continue up on blankness & trend left to jug + corner & ledge & 3rd RB, slightly easier climbing up right to 4th RB, follow the corner to 5th RB, up right of overhang to 6th RB, then to chains above right (underneath the tree branch). (Shared with Lord Gumby.) Retrobolted, now with 6 RBs.

Start: About 4m right of Light Box #13. Below the overhanging corner. Up broken rock to first carrot, to a small ledge & 2nd carrot, follow corner up to 3rd carrot, up right through small overhang & 4th carrot, out right across ledges to broken corner, up this to 5th carrot (out left) & big jug to double rings out left. Remember to bring bolt plates.

Start: 2 metres right of Light Box #13. Below the line of rings to the left of the corner. Straight up wall on blocky holds to hard move on slab and anchors. Original finish somewhat encroached upon by shotcrete.

Start: Just right of Light Box #12, just right of the Wallbanger tree. Five RB's to chain. High first bolt, then evenly spaced to anchors. Shares top 2 RBs with Wallbanger to chains. NB: This route tends to weep for several days after rain. This route has been retrobolted.

This route has been retro-bolted.

Start: Directly in front of Light Box #12. Climb the spreading Fig tree at the start to first BR, then thin moves up to a ledge, move Right along this to 2nd BR. Straight up to a 3rd BR just Left of the arete, then traverse Right under the overhung & up the blank corner passing another 3 RBs to chains.

Start: Slightly left of Light Box #12. The smooth face just left of the Wallbanger tree. Hard start protected by an RB. Push over bulge to another RB and up thin face to a 3rd RB, then push on to clip a fourth RB below the overlap and use the hefty undercling to gain the face above. Continue up the thin slab, then easier (but run-out) to 5th RB and chain 2m above. Now rebolted with RBs & new chains. (NB: The new chains eliminate the older, lower chains, used as an alternative ending, making this route now 22m.)

Start: Up Rear Entry to 3rd bolt, then head up right passing 2 more BRs, to chains. Note: this route tends to seep for several days after rain.

More joy.

Start: Slightly right of Light Box #11. Up broken face, past a RB, then traverse slightly right and up to small ledge. Clip high RB and fire straight up the improbable looking wall past another RB. Traverse left and up the recess to below overhanging block. Clip final RB and jug up to chain above left. Note, this route tends to seep for some days after rain.

Start: Slightly left of Light Box #11, 2m left of Rear Entry.

Climb the thin, broken face to RB, & up the thin slab to the next RB & a good hold. Blast slightly left up the thin face (crux) to next RB below small overlap & up to next RB & big hold. Finish over small roof to chain. Short climb but a long name! This route tends to weep after rain.

Simon and Neil initially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

Start: In front of Light Box 10, a few metres left of OLBDNSWD. Locate thin crack. Aid up this on small to medium wires to below vegetated ledge. Mantel this (BR - probably gone) to rest. Up right past aid bolt to another mantle onto a small ledge below smooth headwall and BR (probably gone). Aid up the wall past a rusty old aid bolt (still there), then traverse directly left to chains on ST. Rap off. Warning - bolts may be very weak by now. (NB: I would suggest that the aid bolts & bolt runners are now long gone, cleaned off by BCC in many rock scaling events. As of 2022, one rusty BR remains high up on this route.)

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

Start: Just left of Light Box #10, below a FH. Up a steep blank wall with hard reach move to jug and very high 1st FH. Up loose broken face to 2nd FH 3.5m above. Up blocky ledges & more broken rock, to a FH about 5m above, on face out right, mantle ledge & traverse 2m right to chains. Bold and loose between 1st & 2nd & 3rd FHs. This needs retrobolting to make it a safe lead.

Start: Directly in front of Light Box #9. Up the blocky face, to first bolt, straight up to next RB, then slightly right to 3rd RB on face, continue up the face/corner, passing a 4th RB, to chains.

Start: In front of Light Box 9, about 2m left of Smooth Sailing. Challenging start, up steep rock to first bolt on broken rocky face, aim for drill hole on right to next bolt, straight up the inside corner to a 3rd RB, up the face to 4th RB, and bit of a run-out over easier ground to chains directly above. (Chains in the left corner are Dynamite's chains.)

Start: Just left of Light Box #9, about 1m left of In The Middle Of A Dream. A daunting start up the blank slab to first RB, continue up the thin slab to a 2nd RB, over this to inside corner & 3rd RB on the black wall, bridge up the corner to a 4th RB, then easier territory to chains directly above in corner.

Start: Just Left of lightbox #7. Now retro bolted. 5 ring bolts to a set of anchors. Up over slopers to first RB, then blankness to 2nd RB, easier ground to 3rd RB, then up sheer face/corner, passing another 2 RBs to chains on Right. Rather chossy climbing, needs a clean up.

Start: Just Right of lightbox #6. A well protected route over good rock. Up the face to a knife-blade arete. Follow the RBs up Right of this, then up the face, passing another 2 RBs.

Start: Directly in front of Lightbox #6, 2m Left of GR. Committing start up blank slab to 1st RB, big run-out, but easier ground to next RB, then nice moves follow corner up, passing another RB, then delicately to last RB, layoff & pinch the blunt arete & bridge up to chains.

Start: Right of the big Foreclosure block, behind a small tree. Up the varied rock, passing 5 RBs to chains. Keep left of the drill hole at the start & climb straight up to the 2nd RB, up the sharp arete on good moves to 5th RB & chains on ledge.

Start: Below big overhanging block Left of GR. Up easy crack to below the big roof & RB. Layback out right onto small ledge and climb nice crack to grassy ledge. Up sustained wall on right of sharp arete, with good gear in horizontal cracks, to loose top.

NB: This route needs an anchor, as Council have since shotcreted the top 2m of cliff and established the parkland above.

Start: Below the big overhanging block. Up easy, loose crack under roof to a ring bolt, then up to a nice crack with good gear. Continue up crack for a few moves to grassy ledge. Climb left onto the arete & up this (crux) past two ring bolts and up to DBB. Unique climbing for KP with a few different styles of climbing involved.

Start: as for Foreclosure. Climb to RB below the small rooflet, traverse left, then up, following a small seam/crack (small but solid gear). Stem up the seam/crack & face on the left, until a mantle rejoins you with the top 2 RBs of Foreclosure. Finish up arete as per Foreclosure to anchor.

Start: In front of lightbox #3, (sign saying "No climbing in this area") - about 15m left of Foreplay. Up slick wall to first RB, up trending left to next RB, up a very blank wall to next RB, continue up the blankness to final RB & chains 4m above. NB: This sector of the cliff tends to weep for a few days after rain.

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil merely used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to the TAFE that used to reside along the top of this section of cliff.

Start: several metres left of large white landslide below, a BR. Up mank to ledge and BR. Up corner above past dodgy aid bolt and BR to below crack. Aid up this to ledge and BR. Scramble up dirt ledges to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Mick Woodrow's first free ascent at KP. ignominious! Crap climbing in between vertical dirt.

Start: ten metres before the cliff turns left. Up blocks to a grassy ledge. Up and left to the manky corner and climb the dirty rubble to the top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

The chossy start left of the original route.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Start: at the small buttress left of EE. Up bulging twin cracks on a tier, to a stance. Up unprotected crap rock to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Start: At the initials "TPM", four metres left of the big arete. Up the short crack left of the arete then continue up ledges to top.

Footnote: It is still possible to climb this, as it lies just outside of the Riverlife property.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Interesting bridging moves up a dark corner leads to an enjoyable layback and an easy finish. Tree belay. Try this one before visiting Frog!

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Contrived climbing up the thin wall left of the corner, to a notch in the wall at five metres. Traverse right and finish up the original line.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

More contrived climbing. Climb Gash Flash VS & at the notch, continue up the arete placing gear in the Gash Flash crack.

Historical register: This route is now a part of Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Clip the first BR from ground and boulder up. Mantle sloping hold and continue up the nice arete past another two BR's to an easy finish.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: On the blank face, about 6-7m Left of the sharp Gash Flash arete. Very hard edging up face, past a BR, leads to a small ledge. Place pro in crack and crank up to top and chain.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: Just Left of Tode Mode. Up wall trending Right past two BR's to Tode Mode's ledge. Finish up Tode Mode's crack to top. A barbed wire fence once existed below this climb making falls a scary proposition!

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

Start: just Left of RIAC. Up the delicate face left of RIAC to a crack then up past two BR's. At the second BR trend left and up to finish. Very sustained.

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Contrived. Up Spack Attack then traverse right and hook up edges to top.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: at the MCR initials. Hard and sustained climbing up the chipped pockets past two BR's leads to easier ground and some trad gear, then the top.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: 1m Right of TT, below the pipe hole. Up the crack and pipe hole with difficulty to a BR. Push past this with difficulty to an easy finish over blocks.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: At the initials; TT. A rather interesting excursion up the small red corner. At two thirds height step right and finish up easy ground. Nice crack climbing with solid gear.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: just Left of Trash Thrash. Up face to overhanging bulge. Through this with difficulty to top.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: 2m Right of MSB. Up face (no bridging) to ledge. Traverse Right and up through overlap.

This obscure route is located on a small wall on the left side of the old Navy Stores building (now Riverlife).

Two dodgy FH's lead the way up a series of good edges.

As of 2022,this wall is now covered in vines & growth.