Routes in Left Main Wall

Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'.

Buried somewhere in the vegetation L of 'Crap Corner'.

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs.

Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.

Start 1m R of 'Earth to Stella'.

Straight up R face of the 'ETS' pillar past 2 BRs and finish on top of pillar at the 'ETS' DBB. The bolts are a bit too spaced resulting in a dodgy 2nd clip.

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

Start about 15m L of Web.

Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB.

Start as for MBTM then at the first bolt traverse right. Climbing on the right side of the bolts all the way to the chains. This creates a easier variant to MBTM.

Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) then past another BR to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, step R to base of corner then up this (natural pro) to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

Start 2m L of 'Snake in the Grass'.

Up thin face tending L past 2 RBs to halfway ledge. BRs & a FH in top half, finishes at chains.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

Start as for 'Olos'.

At halfway, traverse R to meet 'The Olos Slab' at its last bolt and finish as per that climb.

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led in the 90s, making use of a slightly enhanced hold. That hold was filled in in 2000, and lead successfully at grade 25.

Linkup. Up 'The Olos Slab' to 3rd RB then R to finish up top of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".

Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

Start between 'Surrender' and 'Love Hurts'.

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark.

Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB. Was originally led with just two bolts and trad. Retro-bolted with permission.

Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'.

Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it!

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG".

Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but staying left of the bolt line. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to anchor.

The corner takes good natural gear, despite what the guidebook may suggest.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Gynaecology', staying right of the bolt line. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Rebolted in 2019

Follow the L tending line of 5 RBs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 RBs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN".

Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 2 BRs to top.

Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'.

As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated).

Start 2m R of 'Crossed With No Name'. Marked "CCM".

Up steep wall past 3 RBs. Climb to thin crack in corner & small but good gear behind BCC steel plate, then up bomber crack placing natural pro. DBB with rings - in alcove behind tall grass, directly above the crack. Small to medium cams, nuts, small hexes if you want, tricams or even ballnuts.

Rebolted April 2024.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

Start 2m or so L of the usual route, near "RRR" mark.

Instead of starting up the 'Juice' crack then traversing L, climb straight up the steep face to join the usual route at its 2nd FH. The usual route's 1st RB off to the R may offer some protection for the start, depending on how direct you go.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd RB then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing 2 RB's. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Edit: This run out can be protected with a number 5 nut in the top of the crack to the left of the first ledge after the second clip.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start at the "WK" mark.

Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB. Remember your boltplates.

5 bolts above an optional gear placement. Start at Nightfell ("N"), climb up to the ledge at 2m, place a cam (#1 BD or medium tricam) in the slot out left, just above the lip. Big layback & step-up to bolt, over bulge to ledge below scooped wall & next bolt. Then up left of the scoop & straight up, passing another 3 bolts to anchors.

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".

Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.

Start 2m Left of 'Pass the Bosch' or 1m Right of the Nightfell scoop.

Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Rebolted in March 2019.

Start below the bolt about 3.5m up, just Right of the big concave wall (Nightfell). Straight up past this to 2nd bolt, up to ledge & 3rd bolt on short wall on Left. Up to the big ledge & clip 4th bolt at head height, straight up the block to 5th bolt (crux), then easy climbing to chains.

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

Start at the "V" mark.

Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Climb up to 2nd BR as per the original route, then, instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top. Big reach and balance move.

Start 2m R of 'Prickles', 2m L of 'Ego'. Faintly marked "RC".

Straight up to stance & BR. Traverse R past BR to mantle move & FH shared with 'Ego'. From here trend L to climb up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

Start as for original 'Ego'. Instead of finishing up the slab, climb corner to L with natural pro. Top out.

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".

Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.

Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.

Start 2m L of 'Halva'. Faintly marked "SOS".

Nondescript bottom section with fun, airy finish. 5 RBs to DBB.

Traverse. Start at 'Halva'.

Four pitch traverse finishing up 'The Olos Slab'.

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB.

Start at the "K" mark.

Nice moves through a thin crux sequence. First bolt is very high (hence the "R" rating). 5 FHs & DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Marked "AFD".

Straight up past 3 FHs then head L to BR (a bit run out). Up fun juggy bulge then move R along ledge to arete. Either finish up this past 2 BRs to top or traverse R to DBB on 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Right)'.

Prior to 2004 this climb started up 'Kiwi' and was known as "Kiwi RHV".

Start as for 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', 3m R of 'Kiwi'. Marked "AFD".

Straight up past 3 FHs then head R past BR to roof. Clip FH just above roof and crank through crux (climbing R around roof is a much easier climb). Once above roof, either run it out straight up easy corner to DBB on ledge or move L around arete to join 'Another Faustian Dilemma (Left)', finishing up past 2 BRs to top.

Prior to 2004 this climb traversed in from 'Kiwi'.

Obsolete but included for historical/confusion reasons. Disappeared after a fig tree grew nearby. 'Tiger Stripe' covers this part of the wall.

Start at "TS" mark.

Trend L past 3 FHs then back R again past 4th FH to join 'Tiger's Tail' for final FH & shared DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger Stripe'.

Straight up past 5 FHs to DBB. Last FH & DBB shared with 'Tiger Stripe'.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Tail'. Marked "TE".

Straight up past 2 RBs (1st one is high) to drill hole & crux, up onto the slab & final RB, then up to chains. NB: the drill hole has a crack running through it. I would advise a small cam, or tricam, placed sideways, or better, a ballnut in the crack on the slab. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & a lower-off.

Start 2m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Up to very high RB below overhang. Through overhang then past 3 RBs on wall above to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Slippery When Wet', 4m R of 'Tiger's Eye'.

Good climbing but beware the run out to the 2nd bolt = ground fall territory from the 2nd bolt. 4 RBs to DBB or clip the carrot and top out for full value. Rebolted in 2020 with RBs & equipped with lower-offs.

Start 2m R of 'Wind in the Willows'. Marked "C".

Decent beginner lead, well-protected by 5 RBs to chains.

(Rebolted May 2020)

Start just R of 'Crap'. Marked "M".

Straight up using the bolts on 'Crap' but keeping to their R.

(Equipped with RBs May 2020)

Start 2m right of Crap. Marked "R" .

3 RBs to DBB. High first bolt! Can be climbed by clipping the first two bolts of Crap.

(Rebolted July 2020, QCRC)

Start 2m R of 'Razor'. Marked "UN".

Follow line of 3RBs then a FH to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Untouched'. Marked "DS".

Up past 2 BRs to overhang. Reach out and clip fixed carabiner on lip of overhang. Mantle then up easily past another BR and top out. Beware getting to first bolt!

Traverse. Start at 'Insomnia'.

Up to 1st bolt on 'Insomnia' then traverse L to 1st BR on 'Slippery When Wet'. Continue up and L to 3rd bolt of 'Kiwi' and finish up this to chains.

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I".

Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt = can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

Technical & balancy climbing to 1st RB, crux move over the lip to 2nd RB, up the thin, balancy face to 3rd RB, more thin moves on slab above to 4th RB, then easier ground to chains.

Very slippery rock.

Sandbagged old school climb and grade. Not a lot of pro in the first half.

The left tending crack. Has a set of anchors over the bulge at the top on a nice ledge.

Start 1m L of 'Bottle Stopper'.

Up past 4 RBs to DBB.

Start at "BS" mark.

Nice easy sport lead. 4 RBs & DBB.

Start 1.5m R of 'Bottle Stopper'. Marked "SR".

Trad route with some BRs. Probably harder than grade suggests.

Start 2m L of 'Standing Room Only'.

Up past 5 RBs to ledge at 2/3 height. Finish up 'SRO', clipping its last RB before reaching shared DBB. Crux is getting over bulge at 5th bolt - tricky, somewhat confusing and likely harder than grade suggests.

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'.

Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

Start midway between 'Slime Fresh' & 'David Mac'.

Follow line of 5 RBs to DBB.

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

Start at the base of the deep crack.

Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

Start 3m R of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "S". Poor protection. Up to the concave scoop on dodgy rock, some gear in the thin crack on the right, up on poor gear to face above & better placements, then to top on reasonable gear, head right to DBB on Septugenarian, or top-out.

Before anyone else objects to the name as being "derogatory" or "demeaning" to "old" people (is that not demeaning or at least patronising in itself?) let me point out that I AM a Septuagenarian and that the name accurately reflects the effort I had to put into making the first ascent - an effort that most Septuagenarians and almost-Septuagenarians - if they are still climbing - will readily acknowledge and agree with.

Start midway between Smog and The Hyena's Heinie. Climb up through the slightly overhung V in the rock with first and second bolt to your left (the main crux). Continue upward following the line of bolts (obviously!) and stepping occasionally to the left as you go. Rock quality and hand holds are generally surprisingly good, but it might take a bit of searching to find them - on your first climb at least.   Advisable to use long quickdraws or short slings on at least two of the bolts to minimise rope drag. Twin bolts with rings at anchor, or top out.

Bolted on Wednesday 24th June 2020; bolts tested and FFA on Friday 26th June 2020.

Start 2m L of the usual 'The Hyena's Heinie' start.

An alternate start to 'The Hyena's Heinie' which makes it very slightly harder. Up steep blocky arete past 2 RBs before joining the usual line at its 3rd bolt.

Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted.

Start at the faint "SI" mark.

Up past 6 RBs to DBB. Was known as "SI" before being bolted.

Start 1.5m to L of 'The Bee's Knees'.

Up trad line with 3-4 nut placements. Finish at "The Bee's Knees' DBB.

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

Start 1.5m L of 'Date Anatomy'.

Climb past 5 RBs then mantle awkwardly onto ledge and finish at DBB shared with 'Date Anatomy'.

Start at 'The Duck's Nuts'.

Trad line near 'The Duck's Nuts' and 'Date Anatomy'.

Start at the "DA" mark.

Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB.

Start 2m R of 'Date Anatomy' marked "D".

Easy climbing past 5 FHs then crux dyno move over big overhang. Straying R at the overhang onto 'Ring Around the Moon' makes it much much easier.

Start 1m R of 'Dinosaur'. Marked "RAM".

Up arete to overhang then escape R and top out.

Start at obvious crack 3m R of 'Ring Around the Moon', marked SKEG (for some reason). Very good protection

Up intermittent crack to overhang. Over this (crux) and top out to R.