Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
22 | ★ Waterfall
NB: Climb only if it has been dry for a week or so. Start: Up 'Frontier Psychiatrist' for first 3 bolts, putting a long runner (1.5m) on the third. Traverse L over choss, clip FH at start of waterfall bulge and up past another FH to anchor on ledge. Use all your ninja skills retrieving your clips. (Note: December 2022 - following the severe rock scaling here, by BCC, I checked the fixed hardware & found it untouched & unscathed. M. Gamble) FA: Alex Combes, Brendan Fraser & Josh Combes, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Frontier Psychiatrist
Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'. Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain. The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006 | 16m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Eddie Goes to Gay Bars Variant Start
An alternate start to the 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' a traverse which adds an extra pitch. Start at 'Frontier Psychiatrist' then traverse R from the 3rd bolt to 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' to join the usual 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' route. FA: Mark Gamble & Michael Woodrow, 2006 | 35m | |||
17 | AdventuREX
Follow 6 FHs to hidden anchors, Avoid the choss/crack on the right Set: Scotty Does & Sebas Penuela, 18 Jul 2023 FFA: Sonia Komonen, 18 Jul 2023 | 16m, 6 | |||
12 R | Initial Public Offering
Trad line between 'Frontier Psychiatrist' and 'Junket' - The obvious crack. Very soft band of ignimbrite = very poor gear & poor climbing. Run-out at top. Follow left leaning crack, then right up to chains on Junket. FA: Mark Gamble & Dave Duffy, 2007 | 22m | |||
21 | ★ Junket
Start 2m L of 'Pink Berets'. Up L-trending line of 5 RBs to anchors. Not great rock and pretty dirty. FA: Rocky | 17m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Violet Berets
Variant finish to 'Pink Berets'. Break left at 3rd bolt, finish at same anchors. Could possibly have another bolt and its own anchors. FA: Patrick Simon, Andrew Grosser, Fraser Pocknee & Nathaniel Mitchell, 2013 | 15m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Pink Berets
Start 2m L of 'Bouncy Castle'. Up past 2 FHs to break. Overcome loose section past FH to drillhole overhang and final FH. Interesting crux pulling over this to slab and rap station. FA: Lee Cujes & Samantha Coles, 2003 | 15m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Bouncy Castle
Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'. Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat. FA: Unknown, 1980 | 18m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Busted Xylophone
Start as for Bouncy Castle, up past first 2 bolts of BC to small rooflet, up over this (clip BC's bolts as protection) & finish up easy wall at BC's anchors. Not an enjoyable route & run-out from the 2nd bolt. FFA: Unknown | 18m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Busted Xylophone RHV
Up first two bolts as for Bouncy Castle then head out right to fun moves up trad crack with good gear before heading left to Bouncy Castle's anchors. Described previously on TheCrag as Busted Xylophone, however after noticing a major grading inconsistency and further consultation of the guidebook, this route is independent to the traditional Busted Xylophone route. | 18m, 2 | |||
20 | ★ Pommy Bastard
Start at the "PB" mark. Ledges and crap rock in parts but still has some nice moves on it. Well protected. 5 RBs and lower-offs. First ascent was done in drizzling rain with a visiting American climber that washed into Mountain Designs when Mick was working there. FA: Michael Woodrow & visiting female climber... | 18m, 5 | |||
21 R | ★ The Rasp
Start 5m R of 'Pommy Bastard'. Marked "R". Boulder start ('The Exterminator') to very high BR. Past further 3 BRs and finish at 'Dare to Dream' anchors. FA: Mike Johnston, 1984 | 18m, 4 | |||
21 R | Dolerite Dreaming
Start 2m R of 'The Rasp'. Marked "DD". More or less rebolted as 'Dare to Dream'. Straight up past 2 RBs, then sling the drill hole at 2/3 height. Original route might have continued L to join the final two BRs on 'The Rasp'. FFA: Gordon Bieske, Richard Marshall & Paul McAntee | 18m, 4 | |||
22 | Dare to Dream
Start as for 'Dolerite Dreaming'. Essentially a rebolt of 'Dolerite Dreaming', maybe with a more direct finish. Up past two RBs and sling the drill hole. Continue straight up past two more RBs, traverse L under the roof and run it out to the anchor. Set: Steve Kloske, 2013 FFA: Steve Kloske & Oskar Kindbom, 2013 | 18m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Kass
Start 2m L of 'Bombadil'. First top roped as 'Kasper' in the '70s at grade 16, the passing decades and a passing Bosch have seen it evolve into a grade 21 sport route. 6 RBs, chains. A DBB at the 4th bolt allows it to be climbed in 2 (admittedly very short) pitches, great for practicing multipitch skills in a safe environment. FA: John Webb & Rob Brodribb, 1975 FFA: Steve Kloske, Bendan Balderson & Adam Gibson, 2013 | 18m, 6 | |||
17 | ★ Bombadil
Start 2m L of 'Tombstone Row'. Marked "B". A fun, well-protected KP sport route. 5 RBs to DBB. FFA: Darrin Carter, Chris Poole & Mark Poole, 2002 | 18m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ SHC
Old trad route starting where 'Bombadil' is now. FA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1984 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Tombstone Row
Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR". Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16. FFA: David Reeve, 1968 | 18m, 5 | |||
14 R | ★★ Tombstone Row (trad)
Historic KP trad route. In today's terms; runout & dangerous in the upper half. Up onto large ledge at 2m (gear), tricky step up, then out right & up to sloping ledge at 5m., up headwall (more gear) above, then trend left, up along weakness & no gear till you get to the lefthand corner crack & top-out. FA: David Reeve, 1968 | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Idiot Wind DS
Start straight up wall L of usual 'Idiot Wind'. Consider using some trad gear. Rejoins the original at its 2nd bolt. FA: Andrew Barry, 1983 | 18m, 4 | |||
21 | ★ Alien Sex Fiend
Start as for 'Idiot Wind' & up to 4th bolt at the big flake. At the 4th bolt on 'Idiot Wind' (the big flake), don't clip this, but instead, step slightly left, and up the headwall L of the 'Idiot Wind' flake past 2 RBs: The 4th bolt is a desperate clip in the Mark Moorhead tradition, involving a thin crimp or a long reach to get to the bolt, thin moves to next bolt, then traverse right 1.5m, to IW anchors. FFA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1986 | 20m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★ Idiot Wind
Start at the "IW' mark. Quality climbing. The testpiece of its grade at 'Kangaroo Point'. 5 RBs and anchors. There's a ground anchor just R of the base for lead rope soloing. Be aware of the possibility of a nasty ledgefall between 4th and 5th bolts. This route map shows it dodging around the small roof. I lead it direct, doing the nice balancey move as a part of the * experience, and I think others probably did too. (Michael Woodrow) FFA: Gordon Bieske & Paul Hoskins, 1984 | 18m, 5 | |||
20 R | ★ Eddie Goes to Gay Bars
Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.
FA: Michael Woodrow, Darren Holloway & Martin Lama, 1983 | 50m, 3 | |||
22 R | ★ Sounds of Silence
Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.
FA: Rob Rankin & Rob Simcocks, 1972 FFA: Andrew Barry, Gordon Bieske, Nic Taylor, Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss & Roger Bourne, 1983 | 88m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ The Stoats Stepped Out VF
A hard 21! As for TSSO, up IW, passing the first IW RB, mantle the ledge and clip the 2nd IW RB with a longish runner, from the ledge, head right to next RB up the broken face, at the "variant start" painted on the rock, keep right, up ledges till you can safely clip the 4th RB at a small stance, then hard moves up the face to the next RB, at the ledges above, move either 1m left or right, to anchors on IW, or TSSO. (route re-bolted + anchors installed on TSSO April 2024.) | 20m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ The Stoats Stepped Out
Start 2m R of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TSSO". Up to 1st RB on 'Idiot Wind', mantle the ledge & clip the 2nd RB on IW, with a longish runner, from the ledge, trend slightly right, up the broken face to the next RB, then follow the broken ledge up right, below the headwall, to a small stance & the next RB, delicate moves to the FH & rap rings. ( Route re-bolted + anchors installed April 2024.) FFA: Darren Holloway & Michael Woodrow, 1985 | 18m, 5 | |||
21 | ★ Socketh It Unto Me V
"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985." Up SIUM to about the 8m mark (small ledge), move left across small ledges to RB, follow the broken rock up, trending right at the "variant start" painted on the rock, to a small stance & clip the next RB, then straight up TSSO VF (crux) passing a 3rd RB. At the ledges below the top, move 1m left or right, to anchors on IW or TSSO. Carrots replaced + anchors installed April 2024, FFA: Mick Woodrow & Moira Blom, 1985 | 18m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Socketh It Unto Me VF
"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985." Up SIUM, to small ledge at 8m, then up to a stance below the overhanging crack & bomber gear, through this to slab above, left of MI, & RB on face out left, up TSSO (crux) for the last 3m, passing a FH & rap rings. RB + anchor installed April 2024. FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1969 FFA: Mick Woodrow & Moira Blom, 1985 | 20m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Socketh It Unto Me
Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S". Up to corner, layback up it, to ledge & stance below the overhung crack & bomber gear, hard moves through this & finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing. Top out or move right across face to anchors on AGAP & 42 Wheels. The overhung crack takes large nuts, or small hexes. Cams, tricams + offsets. FFA: Michael Woodrow & Moira Bloom, 1985 | 18m | |||
17 R | ★ Mission Impossible
Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI". Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent. FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1969 FFA: Gordon Bieske, 1985 | 18m | |||
19 | ★ Mission Impossible VF
Start as for 'Mission Impossible'. Traverse R at the ledge above the deep hole and finish up slab as for 'Another Girl Another Planet'. FA: Michael Woodrow & Moira Blom | 18m, 1 | |||
21 R | ★ Another Girl Another Planet
Start just R of 'Mission Impossible'. Marked "AGAP". Up the broken rock to ledge and very high RB. Head L through nice crux sequence up R side of 'Mission Impossible' arete to 2nd RB (don't fall, odds are you'll hit the ledge). Mantle up to slab then edge up past RB shared with '42 Wheels' to top. Seldom repeated on lead. "Did the first ascent of this when bolting was a very sensitive issue. I had been heavily criticised for bolting 'Hanger Wall Arete' (instead of putting a wire in the crux pocket/crack to protect that move!), particularly by Evan Beiske if memory serves... anyway, AGAP was my response. Please note it was pretty bold as it didn't have a bolt protecting the crux, just a small, thin piton facing downwards! LOL... Evan whimpered on repeat and lowered onto the piton in horror when he couldn't do the move... :-0" (Mick Woodrow) FFA: Michael Woodrow & Eddie Irvine, 1986 | 18m, 3 | |||
24 R | ★ 42 Wheels
Start just R of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Faintly marked "42W". Easy start over dodgy rock (watch the wasp nest) to ledge and very high RB. Up face past RB on bulge to slab. Finish up slab past RB shared with 'AGAP' to top. "After establishing this route and 'PITG', with nights of top rope rehearsal, I saw Paul Hoskins down at Roo Point on a Saturday morning. Puffed my chest out and told Paul about the routes... he repeated both, onsight, with a combined elapsed time of about 45 seconds..." (Mick Woodrow) Named after a song by Hunters & Collectors. FFA: Michael Woodrow & Paul Lawrence, 1986 | 18m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ Nic Chips Diffs
Start 1m L of 'Dysentery'. Climb easy wall to very high BR then up sharp arete to 2nd BR under triangular roof. Swing L to huge jug and FH. Then up steep face past BR to slab. Up slab past BR and FH to the DBB shared wth 'Dysentery'. The first 2 RBs on 'Dysentery' can be clipped to protect the start. FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1983 | 18m, 6 | |||
19 R | ★ Dysentery DF
Start as for 'Dysentery'. A slight variant to "Dysentery" which makes it a bit harder and more runout. After the 3rd RB head straight up the steeper, overhanging part of the headwall, skipping the usual 4th RB, then rejoin the original line at its 5th RB. Best done on top rope. FFA: Rob Whannell, 1985 | 18m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Dysentery
Start at "D" mark. Up past 3 RBs then steeper moves R past 4th RB. Trend gently L onto slab and up past a RB and a FH to anchor shared with 'Nic Chips Diffs'. FA: Gordon Bieske, 1984 | 18m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★ Dysentery RHF
Start as for 'Dysentery'[12213427], marked "D". At the 4th RB on 'Dysentery'[12213427] veer R then up over roof, clipping 2 further RBs. Up slab above to DBB. FA: Rob Whannell, 1985 | 18m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ Bubonic Man
Start 1m R of 'Dysentery'. Marked "BM". Up past 2 RBs to 'Dysentery RHF' roof. Up over this and up slab to DBB. (Rebolted Dec 2020) FFA: David Whitworth & Michael Long, 1994 | 18m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Bridal Party
Start at 'Wedding Crashers'. Old school climb which traverses L and R to find line of least resistance. Finishes up 'Exhilarant'. FFA: Rob & Cath Whannell, 1985 | 18m | |||
21 | ★★ Wedding Crashers
Start 3m R of 'Dysentery'. Effectively bolts the way 'Bridal Party' was top roped for a few decades. Up easy slab to ledge and RB. Nice moves up steep face past 2nd RB to jug and 3rd RB. Mantle onto ledge and continue more easily past 2 RBs to DBB. FA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006 | 18m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Stemming the Void
Start as for 'Exhilarant'. Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out. FFA: Andrew Smith, 1989 | 18m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Exhilarant
Start up big corner 2m L of 'Hanger Wall Arete'. Marked "Ex". Up the corner then finish up slab. Upgraded from the original grade of 16 by consensus. FFA: Rick White, 1969 | 18m | |||
22 | ★ Hanger Wall Arete
Start on arete 1m R of 'Exhilarant', 1m L of 'Gangbang Wall'. Steep and balancy climbing, 'HWA' takes balance and commitment, while 'GBW' takes crimp strength and brawn. This route is great for climbers who lack the strength to crank through its neighbour, also fun for sandbagging musclebound tough-guys who have no technique. Up arete clipping 1st 3 FHs shared with 'GBW'. Continue up arete above horizontal seam past further 3 FHs. Finish up easy slab to DBB shared with 'GBW' and 'Hanger Wall', optionally clipping 1 or 2 of the 'HW'[12212749] BRs. FFA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1985 | 18m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Gangbang Wall
Start 2m R of 'Exhilarant'. Marked "GBW". Steep cranking on quality sequence (of dubious origin). Up thin slab to L clipping 2 FHs shared with 'Hanger Wall Arete' to 3rd FH at horizontal seam. Head slightly R then straight up headwall past 2 further FHs. Finish up easy slab clipping BRs on 'Hanger Wall' if desired to DBB shared with 'HWA' and 'HW'[12212749]. FFA: Andrew Barry & Roger Bourne, 1984 | 18m, 5 | |||
23 R | ★★ Gangbang Wall DS
Start at 'Gangbang Wall', marked "GBW". Head straight up the face instead of L, clipping the high FH. Rejoins the original 'GBW' when that line traverses in from the L at the horizontal seam. FA: Paul Hoskins, 1982 | 18m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Bitter Gang Bang
Linkup. Climb past the crux of 'Gangbang Wall', then traverse R across 'Hanger Wall' and past 2 FHs to the 'Brisbane Bitter' anchors. | 18m, 8 | |||
AID:A1 | ★ Hanger Wall
Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall'. A bolt ladder aid climb up a line of about 15 BRs. Paul Hoskins "freed" this with the use of a bolted on "Grogan Road" street sign at grade 25. The last problem at 'KP' waiting to be truly freed. FA: Ted Cais, 1968 | 18m, 15 | |||
24 | ★★ Brisbane Bitter VS
Start at 'Hanger Wall', 1m L of usual 'Brisbane Bitter' start. Climb past first 5 BRs on 'Hanger Wall' clipping 2 or 3, then join the usual 'Brisbane Bitter' line at its 2nd RB. | 18m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Brisbane Bitter
Start 2m R of 'Gangbang Wall', 2m L of 'XXXX'. Marked "BB". Boulder start to RB then up nice seam past 4 more RBs to anchors. Hard finish. Very cruxy. FFA: Paul Hoskins, 1983 | 18m, 5 | |||
25 R | ★★ XXXX
Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX". Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. FFA: Chris Frost, 1985 | 18m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ Chippers-XXXX Link
Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line. FA: Alex Combes | 18m, 6 | |||
24 | Chipped ★★ Chip A Holloway
Start 1m L of 'Anonymous' on right blank face of large ledge beneath high first FH. Fantastic. Boulder start to ledge then up daunting wall on holds that just happen to be right where they're needed. 6 FHs then slightly L to anchors shared with 'XXXX'. The route got its name when the pockets on the steep wall were created by chipping away the rock before the first ascent. Originally named Chip a Holloway after Darryn Holloway who chipped the pockets. Described in the guidebook as a tough 22 10 years ago... this was before the crux hold broke off. FFA: Andrew Horchner & Steven McMillan, 1998 | 18m, 6 | |||
14 | ★ Anonymous
Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A". The original trad route. Up obvious corner (gear on left), then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection at the start, can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead. FFA: David Reeve, 1968 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Anonymous DS
Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'. Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB. | 18m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ Anonymous Arete
Start 2m R of 'Anonymous', 1m R of 'Anonymous DS'. Up shallow corner, then sharp arete, then ledges to top. FFA: Saul Squires & David Whitworth, 1992 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Bloody Oath Arete
Start to the left of BO and follow the Arete up. You can access the BO anchors for top rope by climbing down from the top of 'Anonymous'. FA: Unknown, 2000 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Bloody Oath
Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO". FFA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Bloody Oath RHV
FA: Unknown, 2000 | 18m | |||
18 | ★ Stoat Clips Bolts
Start 2m L of 'PITG'. Marked "SCB". Follow the zigzag line of 6 RBs to lower-offs. There's a 7th RB above the anchor if you want to continue up the last section and top out instead. Ensure that you and your belayer have good communication skills if leading this climb as the belayer can not see the climber when they reach the anchors because of the slab, you have to go halfway across the road to be able to see your climber at the anchors. FFA: Gordon Bieske & Rob Whannell, 1985 | 18m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Punks in the Gin
Start 4m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "PITG". Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. FFA: Mick Woodrow & Paul Lawrence, 1985 | 17m, 5 | |||
21 R | ★★ Euthanasia
Start 3m L of 'Pterodactyl'. Marked "E". Up past 4 BRs then left to the 'Punks in the Gin' anchor. Quite run out, and the carrots always feel one move further away than you wished they were. FA: Greg Sheard & Denis Stocks, 1969 FFA: Paul Hoskins & Dave Moss, 1982 | 17m, 4 | |||
22 R | ★ Euthanasia V
Start 1m R of usual 'Euthanasia' start. WARNING: potential for a big groundfall before reaching the 2nd bolt. Straight up to roof, reach left and clip 1st BR on 'Euthanasia'. Then over roof and on to arete. Rejoin 'Euthanasia' at its 3rd BR. Also, there is a large loose, wobbly block in the bulgy crux section. Beware. FFA: Unknown, 1980 | 17m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ Pterodactyl D
Start 2m L of usual 'Pterodactyl' start. Marked "PTD". Up arete and cracked corner to very high RB, then join 'Pterodactyl' at its 3rd RB. FFA: Rick White, 1969 | 17m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Pterodactyl
Start at big "PT" mark. Nice climbing up past 5 RBs then run it out a bit up easy slab to anchors. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing. Crux undercling came off winter 2015. The change is pretty minimal but it's probably a bit harder now. FA: Ted Cais & David Reeve, 1969 FFA: Mick Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1985 | 17m, 5 | |||
20 R | Heap of Shit
A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R. Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway. "I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow) FA: 'Hot' Henry Barber, 1975 FFA: Michael Woodrow & Darren Holloway, 1985 | 17m | |||
22 | ★ Buffy the Flying Dinosaur
This is a link-up that crosses Pterodactyl and Honed and Buffed. Climbs the face of Pterodactyl (not either of the aretes) for first 3 bolts. Series of thin and balanced holds. Then step right off the ledge onto the face. 1 small bomber nut in the obvious crack for pro. Then up and across face. Up the last 2 bolts of Honed and Buffed to anchors. FFA: Hyahno Moser, 20 Jul 2018 FA: Hyahno Moser, 20 Jul 2018 | 20m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Honed And Buffed
Start 1m L of 'Wages Of Fear'. Marked "HBu". Up crap rock at start to high RB. Run it out to 2nd RB, then up slab past 2 further RBs to anchor. Crap start, nice middle and finish. Quite runout using just bolts but has good placements for wires. FA: Andrew Barry, 1984 | 17m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Dextral Chirality
Linkup. Up 'Honed and Buffed' to the first bolt, tricky crimp traverse to the 2nd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear'. Then crap yourself over to the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Keep traversing over to the bolt at the bulge of 'Be A Robot For Jesus' then pull the bulge crux and finish up 'BARFJ'. Pretty fun. FA: Adam Palmer, 2008 | 23m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Cubans For All
Variant finish to 'Honed And Buffed'. Climb usual route to third bolt. Then head up and right, clipping either the 3rd bolt of 'HAB' or the 4th of 'Wages Of Fear', or placing a cam in the break. Clip the last bolt of 'Close But No Cigar' and head straight up to the 'WOF' anchors. FFA: Jay MacGechan, 2013 | 18m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Close But No Cigar
Variant finish to 'Wages Of Fear'. Climb usual route until 4th RB at break. From here head up and left past 1 RB, finishing at 'Honed And Buffed' anchors. Sustained crimping until final awkward move. It's possible to go straight up and then do an awkward traverse but not as nice. FFA: Matt Hunter, 2013 | 18m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Wages Of Fear
Start 3m L of 'Cucumber Castle'. Marked "WF". A 'KP' classic! Straight up line of 5 RBs to anchors. First RB is high but a bit easier to get to than the first on 'Cucumber Castle'. FA: John Pickard, 1968 FFA: Roger Bourne, 1984 | 18m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Cucumber Of Fear
Linkup. First part 'Cucumber Castle', second part 'Wages Of Fear'. | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Pickle Palace
Essentially Sinister Pathway lite. Climb CC to second bolt, traverses left to the second bolt on Wages, pull its crux, then traverse left at the break to finish up Honed. Fun! | 18m | |||
23 | ★★ Cucumber Castle
Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC". Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB. FA: Rob Staszewski, 1970 FFA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, 1984 | 18m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Jesus Ate My Cucumber
Linkup. Up 'Cucumber Castle' to break, finish up last bit of 'BARFJ'. | 18m | |||
26 | ★★ Be A Robot For Jesus
Start at large "BARFJ" mark. Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor. FFA: Andrew Barry, 1984 | 18m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Moonlight Fantasia
Start 1m R of 'BARFJ'. Marked "MF". One of the few good natural lines at 'KP'. It is a shame that the upper layback crack was halved when the council decided to renovate in the mid 1990s by dynamiting it off! Neil Monteith added the new bolted finish when the dust settled. Up pockets to small roof, then up layback crack on L to halfway ledge. Straight up past RB to crack. Either top out or use BARFJ anchors just L. FA: Paul Caffyn & Rick White, 1968 FA: Heath Black, 1995 | 18m, 1 | |||
18 | ★★ Moonlight Fantasia (variant)
Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'. At small roof, head straight up face to halfway ledge avoiding layback crack on L. From ledge finish as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'. FA: Roger Bourne & Rick White, 1979 | 18m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Moonlight Fantasia (Variant Finish)
Start as for 'Moonlight Fantasia'. From halfway ledge climb crack 2m R to top. FA: BIll Cotman & Tony Zuino, 1996 | 18m | |||
27 | ★★★ The Sinister Pathway
Linkup. Very, very nice. Up 'Bufo Marinus' to the bolt. Traverse left across 'Moonlight Fantasia' and place some protection, then over to the 1st bolt of 'Be A Robot For Jesus'. Do BARFJ's crux, then clip the 2nd bolt on 'Cucumber Castle'. Traverse left across to the 3rd bolt on 'Wages Of Fear' and do its crux. Again traverse left across blankish wall to 'Honed And Buffed' and clip the last 2 bolts of this route to anchors. FA: Glen Foley & Adam Palmer | 25m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ Bufo Marinus (direct finish)
Start as for 'Bufo Marinus' but continue up to the L of the small ledge with anchors, finishing at the 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge instead. FA: Chris Frost, 1984 | 9m, 1 | |||
25 | ★★ Bufo Marinus
Start route directly under the one and only bolt on very small crimps. Extremely thin crimping up blank face. Finishes on small ledge with DBB. FA: Roger Bourne, 1984 | 8m, 1 | |||
10 | Traverse To Bufo
Start at 'By Ignorance'. Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'. FA: Chris Meadows & Rick White, 1968 | 7m | |||
13 | ★ By Ignorance
Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI". Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out. FFA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 18m | |||
12 R | By Ignorance (Variant Finish)
Start as for 'By Ignorance'. At the halfway ledge, traverse R 2m and climb up the middle of the slab to the top. No protection. FFA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 18m | |||
17 R | ★ By Ignorance RHV
Start 2m R of the usual 'By Ignorance' start. Straight up drill hole to halfway ledge, then up the corner at the R edge of the slab. Very bold. FA: Andrew Barry, 1982 | 18m | |||
25 | ★ Ground Point Zero
Start as for 'Squawk', 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ". Climb up 'Squawk' until reaching the 2nd RB. From here go L up the improbable-looking face clipping the 3rd RB on the way to the top. Crimpy. FA: Richard Henderson, 1987 | 18m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Squawk
Start 2m L of 'Gobble'. Marked "SQ". Sparsely bolted and therefore less often climbed than it would otherwise be. Up past high RB to 2nd RB at start of headwall. Climb headwall clipping 3rd RB to ledge. Climb the arete on the R to the top. FA: Tony Young, 1983 | 18m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Gobble
Start 3m L of 'Adam's Rib'. Marked "G". Justifiably popular. Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchor shared with 'The Bolting Gestapo'. FA: Paul Hoskins, 1983 | 18m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ The Bolting Gestapo
Start 2m L of 'Adam's Rib', 1m R of 'Gobble'. Nice. Climb up clipping 2 RBs, then 2 FHs, then 1 more RB, then the anchor shared with 'Gobble'. Crux is mantling the bulge at the 3rd bolt. FA: ross ferguson | 18m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Adam's Rib (direct finish)
Start as for 'Adam's Rib'. From the large ledge two-thirds of the way up, climb up the corner instead of the arete. FA: Chris Ahern, 1993 | 17m | |||
14 | ★ Adam's Rib
Start at the massive "AR" mark. Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top. FA: Rick White & Ted Cais, 1968 | 17m | |||
18 | ★ Adam's Rib (direct start)
Start 1m R of the usual 'Adam's Rib' start. Climb up the slippery face to join 'Adam's Rib' at the corner. FA: Richard Henderson, 1985 | 17m | |||
24 | ★ Dollarman
Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground. Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete. FA: Unknown, 1980 | 17m | |||
24 | ★ Pig City
Start 1m R of 'Dollarman'. Has the piranha at half height. Hard start past the 1st FH to the slot that forms the piranha's mouth. Clip the 2nd FH. From here the original route tended L to continue up the 'Adam's Rib' arete but the 3rd bolt on 'Pocket Calculator' now leads you R and up to their shared DBB. 3 FHs. FA: Roger Bourne, 1984 | 17m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Filling In Time Until The Pension
Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands? FA: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2009 | 380m | |||
22 | ★ Pocket Calculator
Start 2m R of 'Pig City'. Follow the line of 3 left-trending FHs. The crux is mounting the bulge. Shares 3rd FH & chains with 'Pig City'. FA: Andrew Mason, 1980 | 15m, 3 | |||
17 | Pocket Calculator RH Variant-1
Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Delicate move into corner & 3rd FH. Hard moves up to crack and jugs, then easy to top. | 15m | |||
14 | Pocket Calculator RH Variant-2
Up to 1st FH, then out right over blocks to ledge & 2nd FH. Out right & up to 2nd big ledge above 3rd FH, up corner to chains. | 15m |