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Mt Barney
The largest massif of rock in south east 'Queensland'. |
South Ridges |
South Ridges |
4 R
★★ Mezzanine Ridge
Follow the Peasant's Ridge track until on the main ridge before crossing the creek to peasant's ridge. Ascend this rounded ridge easily in open forest until over a knoll. Follow the pad up the crest until coming across a rocky razorback. To ascend the razorback follow the apron to the west until it becomes easy to move up on the top. Once on the razorback follow this for about an hour with some huge exposure on either sides and some spicy moves as it narrows to a sheer knife edge. At the end of the razorback a tricky descent is forced on a short slab with little holds. After the razorback the ridge widens and is heavily vegetated but easy to navigate. A second rocky tower have to be contoured on the west until the ascent is forced in a slimy corner. Good hold exist on the face to the LHS with some exposure. The final rocky outcrop is again bypassed on the left until an easy looking ramp will take you to the top of the ridge just above old hut saddle. Scramble easily to the top of east peak. |
1
★ South Ridge
Also known as Peasant's Ridge, this is the easiest route up Mt Barney. From Yellowpinch, follow the road that follows Cronan Creek and skirts the south face. Around 4km hiking will bring you to the entrance for the trail which is clearly signposted. From there, follow the obvious track up the mountain, encountering two very minor technical difficulties at "The Slab" and "The Staircase". Eventually, you will find yourself in East-West Saddle, also known as The Rum Jungle. From here, the ascent to East Peak is relatively straightforward although vague at times. Although this is the easiest route on the mountain, it still requires a long approach and 1000m of vertical gain and loss. As such, it is often underestimated by inexperienced parties - don't go underprepared. |
Egan Creek |
2
★ Savages Ridge
Walk up the road next to Cronan Creek past South Ridge trail head, until Egans Creek has been crossed, then walk another 200m. Immediately before the next creek crossing, ascend the spur on your right (marked by a star picket Nov 2022). A gentle incline on a footpad followed by some steep scrub bashing will bring you to Savages Peak. There are fantastic views from here. The route turns north and then north east towards West Peak along an enjoyable razorback outcrop and a jump over the void at the top of the rocky ridge is the highlight of this section. The ascent up West Peak is made through a narrow gully that is the crux of the route and needs to be done with care. In no time West Peak summit is reached. Overall, Savages Knoll at the crest of this ridge and the razorback route that leads to West Peak are quite spectacular and yield some unique views of East and West Peak. |
East Peak
The East Peak of Mt. Barney, even though this isn't the true peak of Mt. Barney (the West Peak is), it is more often visited due to its accessibility. |
East Peak |
22
★★ The Governor
The pitch lengths haven't been verified, so don't rely on their accuracy. Also, some grades are also not accurate and need to be verified. Caution: some mallions on anchors are rusting out. The longest sport climb in Queensland (320m), this adventure sport climb takes you through the highest and steepest part of Mt Barney's imposing East Face. It's a very sustained route with very few easy pitches, and the individual pitches are also sustained in themselves. This route has mega exposure, good falls, a fair few really enjoyable pitches of climbing, and some rotten rock thrown in. A lot of the loose, sitting death blocks mentioned previously have been removed, but no promises. However, it still remains a serious undertaking, and self-rescue skills, early starts, general efficiency, a solid head, and determination are ALL necessities. At points this climb lacks line and can feel forced, but whatever the case, it definitely required vision and effort to establish. The highest climb in Queensland is not for your average sport climber, and would best suit those with a sense of adventure and a taste for mountaineering. A real Queensland test piece for those seeking to up their game for bigger expeditions. Approach: Once on the landing below the face, traverse/bushbash along the face towards a large rock apron and follow that down, and then you'll come to a part which gets exposed. Here you climb straight up too a bushy ledge (tricky moves) and easily follow the rock along for 50m. Here you'll find the start of the climb.
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2
★★ South-East Ridge
A nice day hike up the ridge starting from Yellowpinch Carpark, with the final 1km to the summit offering nice scrambling in a fantastic position. Navigational aids receommmended in case the faint track is lost, especially post-fires. |
3 ★★ SE Middle Ridge |
17
★ East Face Route
Description partially taken from Rob Rankin's Secrets of the Scenic Rim, and the original guide linked below, with modern amendments. Most tree/shrub belays have disappeared from these guides. http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_MtBarney.pdf This 297m route takes the obvious central chimney which splits the face, formed by two dykes.
7-10) 120m (14) - Follow a series of vegetated chimneys up to the exit gully. |
2
★ Little Logan's Ridge
The rocky ridge directly south of Logan's ridge. It starts at a creek junction behind Yellowpinch Hill. Can be accessed by rockhopping Logan River either sides of Yellowpinch of traverse south from lower Logan's Ridge. Both approaches are long, steep and extremely vegetated. This is an off track route. Once the rocky ridge proper is reached, the scrambling is pleasant, typical Barney slabs on bomber rock. Once the ridge ends on the bottom of the east face, the summit can be reached by climbing an obvious long gully on the right side of the east face or by escaping to Logan's Ridge with a slow and scrubby traverse. |
3
★★★ Logan's Ridge
A superb scramble up an exposed rocky ridgeline. Access by walking back along the road from Yellowpinch carpark before heading into the bush towards the ridge. The scramble is more difficult and exposed the more left you stay on the ridge. |
North Peak
A humble peak with a distinct steep head-wall on its Eastern aspect. Potential for long new routes for the adventurous. |
North Peak |
2 ★★ North Ridge |
2 Rocky Gully |
17
★ East Face of North Peak
The line of least resistance up the East Face of North Peak. A pleasant adventure climb with delicate slabs, decent protection, and runouts typical of SEQ adventure climbing. It is contrived to finish up the last pitch, and the natural top-out is to scramble right off of the major platform below the summit head-wall. This route would be a good introduction to Mt Barney adventure climbing if the last pitch is avoided. Start at the obvious flat belay area below a wide corner system reached by hiking up Rocky Creek, following your nose and bush-bashing right off the track and towards the face when it feels right to do so. May take a bit of an explore.
Either scramble R off the large ledge to the shoulder of North Peak or:
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North Wall
The East Peak North Wall is located to the left of Logans Ridge, just west/below the East Peak Summit. Overhanging orange wall with some good-quality low-choss rock, with sparse pro through the overhanging section of rock. Some good potential for motivated climbers though. |
North Wall |
10
★ West Traverse
PS - Super fun views and some really beautiful/interesting rock on the wall above this route. Could protect this climb with just some slings and a few nuts. Highly recommended for any veteran Barney adventurer or capable bushwalker looking to spice things up :~) |
Isolated Peak
The most mountaineering-esque ridgeline ramble you will find in South East Queensland. An absolute must do for anyone aspiring to anything on foreign soils. |
Isolated Peak |
4
★★ Isolated South East ridge
Start at Lower Portals carpark, follow the track over the first ridge to Rocky Creek. Leave the track on the left and follow a bearing SSW towards isolated creek gully. The base of the ridge has 2 distinct buttresses and the right one, to the north, has a scrambable line. The ridge is relatively open, slabby and leads over Isolated Shoulder to the summit of Isolated Peak. A cruxy buttress at half way requires careful navigation to avoid roping up and some exposure. This ridge is fairly short but more difficult than Logan's, for a comparison. |
Isolated Ridge
Start at Lower Portals carpark, follow the track over the first ridge to Rocky Creek. Leave the track and follow the creek system upstream to the base of the ridge, noting that it can be difficult to find. The ridge is relatively open and leads directly to the summit of Isolated Peak with steep sections in the upper portion. |
20
★★★ Don't Talk, Just Climb
Lower Orange Wall, Isolated Peak, Mt Barney Approach. Approach from Lower Portals Carpark on Lower Portals Track. At the saddle, continue straight into the bush heading 210 degrees magnetic all the way to Isolated Peak. From leaving the trail you will follow a very old fence line until you cross a dry creek. Continue straight towards the East Wall of Isolated Peak keeping a little left and over 2nd little creek crossing and straight on to a 3rd creek crossing. Continue straight to East Ridge/left side of East Wall of Isolated Peak. As you get closer, there is large steep ridge/talus on the eastern most part of the mountain and you can avoid this by traversing up and right as it becomes steeper. The start of the climb can be identified as the first major right leaning crack from the eastern most park of the ridge/cliff. Most of the bush is open bush. Bush navigation can be aided by use of available GPS trail.
Descent can be done with a beautiful scrabble up the ridge to the top of Isolated Peak, or as a 2-pitch abseil. From tree belay at top of 3rd pitch, climb up and left to the ridge line. Stay on ridge line to the summit with some slight deviations left and right as required. Top section gets steeper and more exposed. |
13
Grotesque Gully
The name says it all. This route follows the distinctive weakness which runs diagonally across the face to the right hand shoulder of Isolated Peak. Only two sections require roping up. When confronted by a steep vertical but shallow chimney, climb along a ramp (crux) on the northern wall to regain the gully above the chimney. |
17
Grotesque Gully Direct Start
Starting just right of Grotesque Gully, take a line of natural weaknesses up the face. Interesting terrain threading through large orange crack features. |
18
Northeast Face Direct
This route originally traversed off right at the gully to join the northwest ridge of Isolated Peak, however it makes more sense to combine both the lower and upper faces as one direct line. Start on the centre of the Northeast Face below a large orange cave, traversing left at this cave and finding a line trending up and left toward the apex of the lower face. Cross the gully with some scrambling to find a line on the upper face, climbing this to the summit. |
2
★★ Eagle's Ridge
Eagle's Ridge is the longest route on Mt Barney, stretching from Lower Portals to East Peak. Follow the spur across Tom's Tum and Isolated Peak before gaining North Peak and proceeding to East Peak. Bring a rope, lots of water, a headlamp, and get ready for a big day out (something between 7 and 12 hours). A rope is not mandatory as all difficulties can be avoided. If you wish to follow the true ridge exactly as it lies, than there is a mandatory rappel off the South West side of Isolated Peak. |
Tom's Tum |
Tom's Tum |
3
★ South Tum East Ridge
This ridge has clean rock all the way to the summit of the southernmost Tum, just north of Isolated Peak. The scrambling is easy with the exception of the first 40m, right at the beginning of the rock apron, where some delicate and exposed climbing is necessary to reach a lower gradient above and the ridge proper. Views of Isolated peak impressive east face are enjoyed for most part of the ridge. Once on top, Eagles ridge trail is joined. This ridge is easily approached as Isolated ridges but to the north. |
Lower Portals
Bouldering around the swimming hole. Mostly deep water |
Lower Portals |
V0
Middle Aged Unicorn On Beach With Sunset
Looking up-stream there are two sandy beaches. This problem is on the upper edge of the upper beach. Start in near the waters edge, ascend to the left, then use the pocket holds to traverse and top out to the right. Extra points for a backflip finish into the water. Edit: It appears the 'upper beach' is no longer there and instead this problem exists above a shallow stretch of water. (see updated topo). |
Leaning Peak
One of the many peaks that comprise the Barney massif, but arguably the most spectacular. |
Leaning Peak |
12
★★★ Comino-Waring Ledge
A broad, sloping ledge connecting the North-Leaning Saddle with the top of Leaning Ridge just below the summit of Leaning Peak. From the saddle, traverse the exposed ledge on the North Face until a way up can be found on the far side of the summit. No trees at crux, cams required. |
14
★★ Leaning Peak North Face Route
The climb starts at the 750m contour line about 200m up the right hand gully which slopes diagonally right across the face and intersects Leaning Ridge. This starting point is below a hanging rock and right of an overhanging lip. The start of "Chockstone Gully" can be found about half an hour above Barney Waterfall where Moonlight Slabs eases briefly to a series of open, low angled expansive slabs. The climb is a long adventure route, with classy slab climbing leading to the summit headwall. Single rack will suffice, takes mostly medium cams. Despite the grade, this is a remote climb and good routefinding skills and good headspace for long runouts are a must. |
5 R
★★★ Short Leaning Peak Ridge
APPROACH: From Lower Portals car park follow the track to The Lower Portals (3.8 km) and once at the portals bypass them by taking the steep track on the right. Up to the ridge and back down to the creek. Rock hop upstream until you get to Barney waterfall (on your left). Scramble to the top of the waterfall on the left and walk across the waterfall, the route starts here just above water pools scooped in the slab. ROUTE DESCRIPTION:
To descend: Walk along top of peak towards East Peak and walk down until bolted anchor is reached, from here, abseil (60m rope recommended) into the saddle. Notes:
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13
Plum Bob
Approach the Leaning Peak from the Short Leaning Ridge. Two cracks become obvious apart from the face. The left crack separates Leaning Peak from North Peak. Descend into the right crack and belay of tree in right crack.
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17
★★ The Barney Couloir
"This spectacular gully can be seen from a very long way off. It is the gully on the left side of Leaning Peak North Face and appears to separate Leaning Peak from the rest of the massif. First climbed in 1976 by Barry Ingham and Peter Paterson, the route at first is straightforward with the difficulty gradually increasing towards the top as it should be on all great climbs! There is poor protection (and rock) on the difficult sections." - Rob Rankin's Secrets of the Scenic Rim |
5 R
★★★ Long Leaning Ridge
Some tricky scrambling on exposed rock. The first challenge is a large slab past the first pinnacle. Bypass this slab by following the base of the slab to the west. After this second pinnacle you'll reach the massive slab which traverses to the east towards Short Leaning Ridge. Follow the slab down and Eastward until a large horizontal crack makes a traverse across the slab to some bigger trees doable. Head up and Eastwards avoiding danger by following the vegetation up until you are forced to make a mad scramble up over an exposed arête on good footholds and handholds. A rope may be handy here. The next obstacle isn't encountered until the long scrubby ridge comes to a minor peak and heads down into a rocky saddle. Progress is now only possible by heading down to the West of Leaning Peak and up a gully eastwards to Leaning Peak. Short Leaning Ridge route is eventually joined and a couple of exposed cruxy moves are encountered before the final scramble to the summit. Note: An alternative way of bypassing the second slab is by heading up eastwards until a corner with a crack on it is encountered. It is a 4-5m grade 11 climb which can be done unprotected (use the bollard past the crack to secure the next move) or place a nut (size 9) to protect the crack. The ridge is easily accessed by scrambling the face past the short climbing section. |
Moonlight slabs/Barney waterfall route |
West Peak/North-West ridges
The West Peak of Mount Barney is one of the two major peaks, it is slightly higher than East Peak, making it the highest peak on Mount Barney. |
West Peak/North-West ridges |
1
Short Barrabool Ridge
Enter Barrabool creek from Barney creek. The ridge starts at the first creek intersection, in the middle of the two streams. A steep slog over scrubby and loose terrain, going through 3 distinct rocky outcrops. The first two can be either scrambled or bypassed on the RHS (west), the last one is an unavoidable dirty slab scramble with little exposure. The summit of Barrabool Peak has some spectacular but rough camp spots. The final ascent to West Peak (Mt. Barney highest point) is loose and dangerous. A faint food pad can be followed intermittently in a straight line from the saddle, aiming at a point to the left of the summit proper. Easy scrambling but very loose and steep terrain. Once on the top, veer right for a scrub bash to the summit. |
Long Barrabool Ridge |
1
★ Midget Ridge
A less travelled route up Mt Barney, beginning from Upper Portals and following the ridgeline south to Bippoh Peak (Midget) and then up West Peak via its Northern Ridge. Heavily vegetated. |
2
★★★ Barney Gorge
Beginning at Lower Portals, this alpine flavoured adventure follows Barney Creek before going up Barney Gorge all the way to Rum Jungle in the saddle between East and West Peak. This route can be dangerous after heavy rain. |
Mt Ernest
Mt Ernest is a somewhat forgotten mountain found in the shadow of two titans, Mt Lindesay and Mt Barney. It has some worthwhile scrambling and the potential for easy slab routes on the north face. |
Mt Ernest |
2
★★ North Face
An unlikely but excellent scramble up the rocky northern aspect of the mountain. Follow the spurline all the way from Burbank campsite to arrive at the base of the north face. Ascend scree slope to gain the ridge where some low-angle rhyolite columns make for interesting scrambling. |
1
★ Northeast Ridge
An easy ridge hike with a few sections of scrambling. This route is loose and vegetated with little to recommend it. |
Mt Gillies
A low-slung mountain with numerous rocky outcrops |
Mt Gillies |
17
★★★ Brian's climb
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
V6
★★ Short and Steep
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
3
★ The kids climb
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
V3
★★★ Deception
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
13
★ Fern Gully
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
V3
★★ Snake Mourn
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
V2
★★ First buttress Traverse
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
V2
★ Brad's Problem
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
V1
★★ Bare foot bandit
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
V0-
One move up
Mt Gillies is surrounded by private property. Permission is required to gain access to the National Park. |
18
Menstrual Meglomaniac
Nestled in a crevasse between two boulders to the right of the first major cliff you come to on the walk up from Mt Barney Lodge. This chossy monstrosity is only worth the trip out if it is hot and there are no alternatives. Shady is about the only thing this climb has going for it follow the weakness on the summit side. Aptly named, as upon topping out I was bleeding, cramping and screaming but lived to fight another month. Protection is okay until the top where a runnout through the crux is required. Two large trees at the top make a great anchor. |
15
★★ Mr Barista
The best climb on Gillies. A well shaded beautiful lay back finger crack with good protection. A little choss but some beautiful moves. Top belay and rap from small tree and boulder at top. |
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