Routes as sport in Mid North Coast

2m left of POWER AND THE PASSION, the middle of the wall. Straight up past 2 bolts to chains. Nice on a hot afternoon.

This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland completed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains.

Bottomless to BR, then up black rock on gear

2m right of Hydra. Stay roughly 2 to 3 m right of corner all the way, when at cave level traverse 3m right to chains at Captain America .8 BRs & cams

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

Around the corner from Blind Fury on a vertical orange wall, under a huge overhang. Climb the crack in the center of the wall, then traverse left, following your nose or bolts, whichever comes first. Then straight up wall past 2 more bolts to chain. Extremely pleasant climbing.

First route on left end of cliff, past two bolts to lower off.

Climbs the obvious overhanging arete

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

left trending steep wall past 4 RB's

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

An arete/wall 10m right of Jester. 3 bolts past pockets to a tree belay. A cam fits in the first pocket. Named in honor of the famous Zarzoff brothers: Rooti, Kikki, Likki and Shitti. If you are 4 foot 6 inches you will have no problem.

On right side of wall and climbs steep overhung arete.

A classic climb on the face 5m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

Starts before the main white wall.

4m left of Yosemite Action Hero. Very punchy through rooflet.

Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face.

Start as for Sinisterhood then left and up middle of the face

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

2 pockets and a hueco to a slabby face. 3 bolts, fun climb, trad belay. Was originally bolted and climbed but not documented in the 1990s.

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

Left of these little wonders is a large boulder that is about to roll down to the road and squash your car. It is called the "Gazebo". The two routes on the eastern side are out of the sun in the afternoon. There's an abseil chain at the top.

'Sometimes you've got to take the hardest line...'. This goes up the northern end, the first line you come to. Forget the passion, it's all power on this one. 2 bolts. Belay off a bolt and chains. Technical and sustained.

The wall/arete 10m right and around the corner from Dead Heart. The last wall route on the cliff. Sustained climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay (located on large boulder that overhangs Dead Heart).

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

Start under roof, Traverse out break and up wall. Climb on after first DBB to another bolt and second DBB.

Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.

A nice longish adventure through rooflet and up fused seam

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

Start on left side of wall and head up rightward past 4 bolts to anchors

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

Some meters east of OSS. Start as per Camo Corner. At first ledge traverse left under tree and around corner where a few more moves will take you to the main arete. Step left around the corner onto the next face to clip two rings before making a mantle finish. Rap rings are a metre to the right. Belay your buddy from here and rap off if you like your rope.

Start as for Pulmonary Vacuum but break right after first bulge continuing to the anchors on Isometrics via hard block.

Start as for TTK but at 3rd Bolt head right past one more FH and 1 ring then head back left to share anchor on TTK.

Start on obvious jug above the end of the large boulder. Thug your way past the steep, blank barrier to rejoin Thunder vision at it's crux.

Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left.

Up left yellow wall.

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

The corner/arete 2m right of CT. Stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two in the corner to the arête and then right up the face. Nice pockets up high.

Start as for arty project, traverse right on hangers then up steep wall tending rightish. Don't forget to breath! The loss of a good hold high up has made this harder.

Unknown entity. left line of hangers to chains

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

Start under slab, up to ledge and then up awesome orange wall to anchors under lip

Shady corner after Sinisterhood. Small roof to clean wall with reachy crux at the top

Punchy wall and steep finish on left of orange wall.

Start as for MG head right over bulge to anchors under roof (anchor not yet installed)

Up through bulge at start then slightly overhung wall on thin yellow streak. 6 Rings

Start under large Yellow Streak, Up past overlap and on left side of cave.

up the black and yellow streak wall past flake and rooflet

Climbs the Slabby flake on left side of the wall. fun moves and rock

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

How many (space themed) routes can we fit in here? A worthwhile and pumpy addition. Start on Arty's project and cruise all the way over to Red Dwarf to finish as for that route.

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

3m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots

Up slab and around right side of tree and steeper rock to anchors on ledge. Good varied climbing with a bit of loose rock up high.

Line of bolts left of White Chump, starts with a big move.

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

A bouldery direct start to ‘The Thunderbolt Kid’. A tenuous move off the floor (crux) gains the left hand crimp, then pop to the pocket. Continue into TTK.

Want to know what the moves on a 27 feel like? Well you can try just about all of the hard moves right of the big boulder! Starts as for Event Horizon but heads right over the boulder. Needs a few more bolts to get to the lip of the cave. Absolute sickness!

Start as for CoF for 3 Bolts then head up right through step wall

Start in Back of cave, out through 5m roof to gain headwall and up.

Climb TT for 2 bolts then steep left onto Orange section. Head up past three more bolts to anchors.

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

Bouldery Start, Stick clip first bolt then up past 3 rb's to single RB anchor

6 bolt runners plus chain for belay. The route is a little contrived with only two moves at the grade, one at the 3rd bolt, the other at the 5th bolt. The start is reasonable with an easy middle and nice undercling edge near the finish. Good fun and worth the effort.

The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.

Mini Lala Land

The thin face and arete was a long-standing project. Fingery and technical. A long reach and a cold day may make it feel easier.

Starts 10m right of 'Trinity'. Hard fingery start up to 2nd bolt. Ease off after 2nd bolt with nice moves to last bolt on overhanging finish. The last move exposes you to 25m above the ground. 5 bolts, double bolt belay.

Straight up through thin crimps on slight slab

Interesting pockets and large cobbles. Start by hole in block, follow 3 fixed hangers up face to DBB.

Small arete. Start at the corner, follow 4 fixed hangers up the corner / crack to the DBB shared with the other climbs.

The big roof at the left end of the crag is steep and powerful. Stick-clip the first bolt(s) then boulder up to the roof, out the flake, and round the lip. Up headwall more easily to chains. Classic!

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

Perseus start into Thunder Vision, packs a bit more punch than the original.

First route next to access point. Up pocketed face. Needs Rebolting

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

Access traverse, do not attempt if wet as waves can make this part dangerous. Rope up at slot, clip bolt, traverse to Crows Nest for the first few climbs, or continue rising traverse to the bigger belay ledge the 'South Side Platform'.

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

Bring your technique and finger tips for this great wall climb. Fantastic unlikely moves up the middle of this fun little face.

The line of bolts left of Eat This G-Man. Steep And Powerfull

Line 5m right of slab. Up orange face, through roof then up black face to anchors. Overdue for a rebolt

Start of the gently overhanging terrain, keep on slabbing to the top. Topout left near walk down decent. Bring thick skin, helmet, sense of adventure.

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

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Left most route, steep then slab.

3 bolts left of Shit Chick and about 10m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Bolted by E. Houlton. Since this was a project in the 1997 guidebook I would say it could safely be assumed this is an open project by now. Either that or the first ascentionist is very tenacious. Considering Shit Chick is 28, this one might require a rope gun.

First obvious roof at start of main cliff. Crux between 1st and 3rd bolt. Excellent heel hook move to get from 2nd to 3rd bolt. 4th bolt in over hanging finish. 3rd bolt not visible from bottom. Double bolt belay.

heads straight up orange wall