Routes as sport in Mid North Coast

The right hand of the two bolted routes, about 12 m right of Adrenaline Overdrive. Cam and 3 bolts.

Start as for Pulmonary Vacuum but break right after first bulge continuing to the anchors on Isometrics via hard block.

The thin face and arete was a long-standing project. Fingery and technical. A long reach and a cold day may make it feel easier.

Start in Back of cave, out through 5m roof to gain headwall and up.

The line of bolts left of Eat This G-Man. Steep And Powerfull

The big roof at the left end of the crag is steep and powerful. Stick-clip the first bolt(s) then boulder up to the roof, out the flake, and round the lip. Up headwall more easily to chains. Classic!

Start as for arty project, traverse right on hangers then up steep wall tending rightish. Don't forget to breath! The loss of a good hold high up has made this harder.

Want to know what the moves on a 27 feel like? Well you can try just about all of the hard moves right of the big boulder! Starts as for Event Horizon but heads right over the boulder. Needs a few more bolts to get to the lip of the cave. Absolute sickness!

Start on obvious jug above the end of the large boulder. Thug your way past the steep, blank barrier to rejoin Thunder vision at it's crux.

Variant finish to WMV, go left at fourth bolt past a fifth and up to chain.

Climb the arete to chains. 4 FHs.

2 metres to the right of route three. Easy past two old fixed hangers to rest under roof, then crazy jump move, only possible if you're tall, then slightly pumpy wall to top. Mix of old hangers on easier ground and new ring bolts on harder sections.

Same start as Fast Day In Paradise but branch off onto the right line of bolts. Top out.

The overhanging, black arete left of the offwidth crack. Up past bolts to top-out.

Line of bolts left of White Chump, starts with a big move.

This route was originally conceived by G. Low and he placed some bolts and the chain at the roof. Nic Wagland completed the climb adding several rings. This great route begins with a weakness through the low horizontal roof and then follows the prominent arête. A good rest can be had before the final steep double sided column that leads to the chains.

Direct start for PMOBS, 1 bolt to join main route.

Start as for 'Kanoon', then tend right and up thin wall to anchor

Hard boulder problem through Rooflet and crack then up head wall as for TDK

Right line through small roof, large cobblestone sloper broke at lip while working the line.

Mini Lala Land

10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.

The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.

The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.

Climbs the obvious overhanging arete

Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Left line through the small roof, then follow the relentless diagonal breaks.

Line 5m right of slab. Up orange face, through roof then up black face to anchors. Overdue for a rebolt

Up through bulge at start then slightly overhung wall on thin yellow streak. 6 Rings

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

Perseus start into Thunder Vision, packs a bit more punch than the original.

A bouldery direct start to ‘The Thunderbolt Kid’. A tenuous move off the floor (crux) gains the left hand crimp, then pop to the pocket. Continue into TTK.

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

heads straight up orange wall

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

Start under slab, up to ledge and then up awesome orange wall to anchors under lip

Start under large Yellow Streak, Up past overlap and on left side of cave.

6 bolt runners plus chain for belay. The route is a little contrived with only two moves at the grade, one at the 3rd bolt, the other at the 5th bolt. The start is reasonable with an easy middle and nice undercling edge near the finish. Good fun and worth the effort.

A classic climb on the face 5m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

One of the hardest routes at the crag. The obvious roof right of CONFIDENCE. A short steep wall, then muscle round the roof, then easier to tree belay. 2 bolts. It's great!

The golden wall with 2 pieces of silver, right of QUASIMODO. Technical and strenuous. In contrast to Room With A View (also by Stephens) which was downgraded, this route was originally graded 22 and is now considered by some to be closer to 24.

Punchy steep start past big move and up techy face. Awesome.

A nice longish adventure through rooflet and up fused seam

Punchy wall and steep finish on left of orange wall.

Bring your technique and finger tips for this great wall climb. Fantastic unlikely moves up the middle of this fun little face.

How many (space themed) routes can we fit in here? A worthwhile and pumpy addition. Start on Arty's project and cruise all the way over to Red Dwarf to finish as for that route.

Start as for TTK but at 3rd Bolt head right past one more FH and 1 ring then head back left to share anchor on TTK.

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

Climbs up wall traversing left to top out passing 5 Carrots. No Anchor

Starts at end of ledge 50m past bourbon street. Climb tree to gain over hanging belay ledge. Up flake then out left to gain arête and up airily to anchors on ledge.

Simply great. Campus start if you’re short. Power up past 7 bolts to chain and possible small cam in horizontal break near the top.

The middle of the Alcove, monkey up on big holds until suddenly… there's nothing… much. Don't cheat by traversing right. 5 bolts.

Two FH's protect moves through the pockets to join original route.

Up wall just right of the Malloy.

Up orange wall tending right to anchors on JW

Powerful & pumpy, well worth doing. Climb the arete, 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

The small roof right of BAW. Go up through the roof and wall with small pockets

Two ring bolts, big move from pockets to the break, lower off.

Start just left of Crack. Needs Independent finish. sharp!

Tiny overhang with dynamic chuck. Start at the corner, follow the many closely spaced rings up the overhang and pull over onto the ramp. Up ramp to DBB.

Climb TT for 2 bolts then steep left onto Orange section. Head up past three more bolts to anchors.

Start as for CoF for 3 Bolts then head up right through step wall

Around the corner from Blind Fury on a vertical orange wall, under a huge overhang. Climb the crack in the center of the wall, then traverse left, following your nose or bolts, whichever comes first. Then straight up wall past 2 more bolts to chain. Extremely pleasant climbing.

his route and the next two go up the wall with the large tree close to the wall. Technical, strenuous and it wanders around a little bit - don't bridge off the tree you cheat! Originally reported to have 3 or 4 bolts but may be missing the last one (?)

The first route on the main section of the cliff. A thin crack in a wall. Shoot up crack to horizontal break, then it's suddenly hard. 2 carrot bolt belay 2m back from cliff edge.

straight up face to finish through rooflet

On right side of wall and climbs steep overhung arete.

Start as for OS for 2 bolts then head right up steepening wall. Longer draw on 4th bolt helps reduce drag, Finish as for white rabbit. An easier way to get on the finishing moves which are classic.

The prominent prow feature in the centre of the first part of the cave. Turn the hard roof down low to a rest, then follow overhung prow and roof above to lower offs. Can be done in all but the heaviest of rain. Six ring bolts and double ring lower offs.

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip. Anchor has permadraws on it to make cleaning a little easier

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

The corner/arete 2m right of CT. Stick clip first bolt, Jug up to a tricky move or two in the corner to the arête and then right up the face. Nice pockets up high.

3m right of AG, step right on good foot holds to reach the first bolt. Follow bolts to lower off. Carrots

A fantastic slab with a great little crux roof. The orange streak about 15m right of 'Corky's crack'. Up pockets on orange section, then crux move onto the gray slab with progressively better moves to the top.