Routes in Mid North Coast

Start low on a crimp. Work your way up the basalt slopers and jugs hoping they don't disappear. Tape may be needed for the start. Top out.

From the good "hole" in the center of the steep "spray wall", traverse right to top out on the right side of the wall on good holds the whole way.

Start at the small crack about 1m above the ground and finish on the meeting of the 2 biggest cracks. (Optional) you can also top out onto the top of the slab but do this at your own risk.

Sit start base of obvious line to the L of URU.

the sharp arete. Seriously good climb and view at topout is stellar.

the blunt arete with smileys

Start on crimps at shoulder height with good foot, up dynamically to arm-span side pulls or left statically to micro- crimp to side pull.

Straight up the face of the boulder, using the crack feature over the top of the join in the rock.

The more overhanging right line, some nice moves, have a spotter handy as it gets a bit higher on this one.

Standing start matched on the undercling, throw out to the slopey right Arete, slap up the sloppy Arete to a mantle finish. Slightly harder then Skull & Bones. Great.

Tricky landing!

The arete just left of the blocky chimney, right of OG, avoiding touching wall to right or blocks

Good, Nice views.

Start deep in hole.

Delicate climbing up the face, with a sloping, slightly worrying topout.

Sit start on slopey shelf, then awkward move up arete and to jug.

Up on crimps at top.

Short leaning jugs on east side of block.

Crimp up then left following nice holds.

Crimpy to cool feather on top out.

Up slopers on arete, then traverse left to top out on jug.

Sit start using both cracks and up to top.

Keeping to left side of the crack.

Sit start in small cave left hand pinch right hand crimp into wide crack to top.

Start on crimps and straight up with out touching the two cracks.

Good, head towards horn jug at top.

Up lay away to juggy break, traverse with bad feet. Out right side under roof to easy top out.

Rail to jugs.

Up the RHS of wall, eases after the start, but avoid bridging to easy corner

About 10m R of wetfeet, undercling up and exit L. (Bold direct finish possible at a much highter grade).

Appealing line, but far easier than it looks. Up underside of boulder, L to hanging arete and up this to easy slab. Ensure good pad and spotters!

Sit start compressing south side of boulder on top of ridge above picnic shelter opposite toilet block

Traverse the hand crack keeping feet off ground then top out up arete

Same start as the project treavese right on crimps and no feet to arete then up.

Hard start, very good!

A novelty mantle from a sit start pull over the nose

The centre of the slab right of Grover with the undercut start

Climb the dog leg finger crack at the south side of the block with a useful knob to the left. Hand jamming can be useful to exit

Step from a rock spike onto the arete with a horizontal seam then more easily up the slab finishing right of chockstone

Start at broken crack lines/blocks L of the arête of NLNC. Move up features and finish through same awkward mantle top out as for NLNC.

Starts 1m R of TC. Up broken corner.

Sit start. Up through obvious blocks into small jugs before stepping/mantling R onto large block.

Up pockets to crimp then to the top. Please don't mantel this problem, to preserve the vegetation above.

Sit start at two jugs, and straight up crimps into undercling, and mantel over.

Note - The sand level does move occasionally obscuring the sit start foot holds.

Paul: What's in the box? Reverend Mother Mohiam: Pain. - Dune

A cave with a large variety of little roof problems which need a special P grading system for pain. Still fun!

An amazing quality line in the Goldilocks zone: above the barnacles and below the friable sharp stuff. Start way down to the left below the high tide mark on jugs and traverse through stonking jugs and jams and finish as for 'Rusty Sea Star'

Left hand side pull, right hand low around the arete. Step up into double undercling and snatch for holds above.

On the high east face. Probably not worth it given the awful fall potential.

A great little crack climb. Sit start. Both hands on the juggy flake. Straight up using the crack. Top out.

(The main face of the 'Atlas' boulder)

Sit start on the arete/prow off small crimp and gaston. Pull on and pop to top.

Sit start on adjacent twin crimps in the quartz seam. Big move to sidepull with right hand, then direct up wall. A powerful little move.

The left hand pillar. Low sit start under the roof with good pocket for the left hand in the quartz seam, and a sidepull for the right. Slap up on sidepulls and pinches.

Sit start just left of Slaptopussy (Right hand in the good pocket, Left hand on crimp) and layback the steep groove up the left side of the little pillar. Shares some holds with Slaptopussy.

Sit start at big undercling, up to crimp then up and layback crack on right.

SDS right of overhang up to obvious pocket, up and left along the lip

Arete

Rounded arete left of corner

SDS overhanging wall L of RH arete.

A cool traverse under the lip left of the Scarlet Manuka, cool slopers.

SDS, LH arete

Fun boulder problem up the start of the route. Up to sidepull then pop to the jug by the first bolt.

Left most route, steep then slab.

Is there a route here before the half finished direct start to Cold Blows the Wind? IF so please describe.

Proud line up the middle of the cliff, to top out at the spectacular viewpoint up top. The intended start was from the North shelf, but needs a few more bolts to reach the lower belay ledge. For now can be accessed from the South Side - I'm dancing in the show tonight, then traversing the South Side Platform belay ledge.

Is there a route here? IF so please describe.

Start as for KN in corner but step right at flake onto face with horizontal cracks and up to shared anchor with TO.

Start out R (above ledge platform); awesome rising pockets (easy) until you're above the water, where slightly trickier moves go over the top.

Start on the central pocket/pinch, then make a low traverse L across wall, then up. Probably the safest climb.

North East arete. Hard start then easier to top.

On the right hand side of Mushroom Buttress, in the gully. 1st Pitch (22m): Left up the ramp, left around roof then boldly right onto slab, love hole to ledge. 2nd Pitch (15m): Left around roof, up through downward flared chimney to ledge. 3rd Pitch (30m): Straight up left facing flake and left up blocks to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

Was graded 19M0 with 2 rests on the first ascent. 1st pitch (40m): Rising traverse to right, over bulge and grooves in slab to tree. 2nd pitch (20m): Easy corner on right. 3rd pitch (10m): Short, bold pitch left of wedged flake and up to start of corner. 4th pitch (45m): Left arching corner crack.

First climb as you walk into the crag. up overhang then follow the crack up. chain anchors

Start on left side of wall and head up rightward past 4 bolts to anchors

Arete to the right of 'WINK WINK'. Start below arete and move right then left. Go to left of overhang. Move up and traverse right to arete and mantle up. Move left onto face and head for tree at top

First face past first cnr left of RAIN DANCE. Start near tree and use face only. Follow BR line to top. Very nice and sustained. 4 BR's with tree belay.

Up tricky crack then head left up through a bulge to ledge, move to corner. Hard start to gain wall, then up to ledge. Up remaining wall to chains. Climbed as a single pitch but could be easily split into 2 or 3 pitches at ledges.

Above "'Cauldron' on the 3rd tier. Has a Hard start depending on your height. Easy in the middle. Pumpy finish. natural pro, natural belay.

Starts 10m right of 'Trinity'. Hard fingery start up to 2nd bolt. Ease off after 2nd bolt with nice moves to last bolt on overhanging finish. The last move exposes you to 25m above the ground. 5 bolts, double bolt belay.

A few meters right of Merlin's Platform. Has a Blank orange wall in the middle with one bolt. Crux is from the bolt up. Mostly big slopers 1 bolt & natural pro. Natural belay.

First obvious roof at start of main cliff. Crux between 1st and 3rd bolt. Excellent heel hook move to get from 2nd to 3rd bolt. 4th bolt in over hanging finish. 3rd bolt not visible from bottom. Double bolt belay.

2m right of Twister. Up a pumpy, overhanging wall past a bolt and some silver stick (?), through a roof, past some cams to two new arms!!!