Descent Gully Walls Guide

4 or 5 moves on incuts.

Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete

The first route to the right of the descent gully (facing the cliff). Originally a high boulder problem, then retrobolted. Somewhat desperate (for the first few moves).

An improbable looking blank wall. Don't break that pebble!

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp nest near top

Start two metres left of SPK ,moving up to follow the 5 RB's to anchor. Single U bolt lower off.

Stiff at grade 20.

Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work.

Start left of the cave as per BD.

Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go.

Up first 2 bolts of Lucifer then trend left into bolts as for Big Dreams. Couple of longer draws useful here. It's just an excuse to fondle the jugs at the top of Big Dreams

Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful.

Left wall of the big chimney. Up to low anchor. Funky.

Links start of Blunt into the finish of Velux, at least you can finish at the top of the cliff!

The route left of Santas Little Helper. Up through steep face moves to the fin shaped hold and continue straight up.

1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.

Warning Flora and Fauna: small wasp nest below the anchors

Thin and balancy slab wall right of Barbie Twins.

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

"There's a place in France where the naked ladies dance, there's a hole in the wall where you put your..." Santa Claus is coming down this chimney to find out who's naughty or nice.... a modern classic or an aquired taste, there's something for everyone in Rod Boner's glory hole. Careful of loose rock at the top of the chimney, there is no where for your belayer to run if you dislodge one. The horrific glue drips in the back of the chimney are from an attempt to stabilise the chockstone at the top. Take care.

Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors.

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs.

Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs.

Straight up as for Turtle wall, but in the cave go onto the right ledge and out right to the 2nd (or 3rd) ring bolt.

Start at the end of the Turtle Wall (as for Turtle Wall route). Trend up and right for 3 ring bolts then conquer a massive exposed traverse around right that keeps going until a belay station at the end of Ten Gallon Rehab (sharp arete). Technically easy but not for the faint hearted!

Be aware of rope friction and communication between belayer and leader on this one.

The extension to Mad Hatter with exciting, committing and exposed moves.

A total Nowra classic. Great fun roofing with very cool moves. Pity it is quite short, but at least you get a bit of exposure. This route starts in the exposed cave above the closed Mini Wall. Do not abseil down Mini Wall to get off - scramble off instead.

Start as for CJ but continue straight out of roof, exit out over roof lip and up left to anchors.

Extension of 'Cowboy Junkies' following lip of roof to arete, then up to finish at 'Mad Hatter' anchors.

Up chimney tending left under the little roof and up the left hand groove to the anchors on 'Lucifer'.